Connecting to binding posts on speakers?

[qingcong]

What method is best in terms of mechanical lifetime reliability and electrical conduction to connect wire to the speaker's binding post?

I guess there is the bare wire method and then the terminal lug method. Bananas are not an option. What do you prefer?



http://i831.photobucket.com/albums/zz235/qingcong/bindingpost.jpg

[Patrick620]

I prefer soldering but thats not really and option with binding posts as shown in your pic. When soldering just be careful not to drip solder onto the cone or over heat things and burn the voice coil up.

[TimmyP]

Bananas will fit into some posts, but likely not the ones pictured methinks.

[guitarcapo]

Soldering is best. No vibration will ever disconnect it. It can be a bit tedious to connect and disconnect for tech work.

[donnyjaguar]

These look like car stereo speakers to me.

[Peteyvee]

Soldering is best, but you could also use pins and crimp on collars instead of bananas. Monster Cable and others make them.
These look like car stereo speakers to me.
Me too...

[qingcong]

They are 12" Eminence proaudio speakers I'm using for my 4x12. There is also an EVM12L in there. Bananas are not an option because the EVM12L binding post does not have bananas. Soldering is a bad idea because well, you basically screw up can't use the binding post again, unless you feel like soldering again. The lugs don't seem to make enough contact, so I went with just bare wire.

[Patrick620]

I am quite sure no one was suggesting that you solder to those binding posts. Soldering is not really an option on those like I mentioned in my first response. You may be limited to what you already have. "It is what it is" sort of thing.

[TimSt.L]

These look like car stereo speakers to me.
+1

If a cab is sounding great when I get it, I won't bother with this, but if there's any issues at all, I will open it up. Strip the wire ends and solder them all directly the the speaker terminals.(or whatever the techy name is for them.)

I've had issues before with the slide on clips coming loose and loosing connection.

[TimSt.L]

These look like car stereo speakers to me.
+1

If a cab is sounding great when I get it, I won't bother with this, but if there's any issues at all, I will open it up. Strip the wire ends and solder them all directly to the speaker terminals.(or whatever the techy name is for them.)

I've had issues before with the slide on clips coming loose and losing connection.

[Tele Wacker]

I'm not sure if this is what you need to do or if it is what someone means by "soldering"
I'd simply "tin" the bare wire, stick it in the terminal and tighten it up. This should give you a good connections.

[Patrick620]

I'm not sure if this is what you need to do or if it is what someone means by "soldering"
I'd simply "tin" the bare wire, stick it in the terminal and tighten it up. This should give you a good connections.
hmm, not sure why one would need to "tin" a wire for a mechanical connection. I do tin the tips in some situations so they dont fray but have you ever tried to shove a group of tinned stranded wires through a small hole(looking at the pic)? There is no practical way to solder to a binding post. In fact it's a contradiction of terms the way I see it. No one in their right mind would even try it Now I must try it! where my lead smelter and bottle of HCl or an old car battery with some H2SO4. This is going off course. I only posted cuz it showed up in my email :rolleyes: Ya, dude tin them up and bring friends to shove all of those back in.

P.S. No offense intended:) Tomorrow is my last day of overtime.

[phsyconoodler]

Quote:"hmm, not sure why one would need to "tin" a wire for a mechanical connection"

It makes the wire stiff and therefor a better connection that just shoving the bare wire into the clamps.

[Patrick620]

Quote:"hmm, not sure why one would need to "tin" a wire for a mechanical connection"

It makes the wire stiff and therefor a better connection that just shoving the bare wire into the clamps.
Thats what she said......can you prove it with an oh meter? :sarcasm Seriously, I hear ya, man. Just havin fun with this. I really dont know what else to say at this point. Thats probably why car battery strands are tinned...or are they? (dont get technical, you know what I mean)

[donnyjaguar]

So did you get that Honda Civic rockin', QinQong? ;)

[qingcong]

So did you get that Honda Civic rockin', QinQong? ;)

Haha, I kind of forgot about this thread and I actually did end up tinning some of the wires on the end and using lugs on the others. I was visiting a lab and saw they had perfectly sized lugs for what I needed.

BTW, for those who keep insisting on the car stereo thing, these are for a 4x12 Marshall and some home made 1x12 cabs, not a car. They do sometimes go in my car though.

[TubeLuvr]

here's what you were looking for
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10401&cs_id=1040115&p_id=5976&seq=1&format=2

[Structo]

Yes those pin connectors are what I would suggest.

[qingcong]

How exactly do those pin connectors help to connect wire to a binding post?

Those would work for spring clip terminals, not binding post.

[TubeLuvr]

pin connectors work with spring clip or binding post
put the pin where you would put the bare wire
if space is tight, there are angled pins that may work better

[qingcong]

The idea is that the connection needs to be able to handle 15A. I think that the pin connectors, with their super thin diameter barrel is probably not a good option in terms of electrical contact. Bare wire slightly tinned is probably the best choice.

[TubeLuvr]

I wouldn't say the pin connector are super thin, they are solid material as opposed to the thin banana plugs.
Even crappy banana plugs like these are rated for 15A
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=70090314

perhaps these could work
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=092-658

[qingcong]

I wouldn't say the pin connector are super thin, they are solid material as opposed to the thin banana plugs.
Even crappy banana plugs like these are rated for 15A
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=70090314

perhaps these could work
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=092-658


Yeah, as I mentioned before, I ended up going with those spade lugs seen in your 2nd link, except I jacked mine for free from a lab I was visiting. For the EVM12Ls, which have spring loaded binding posts, I used bare wire as the lugs did not fit.

I can't find the current rating for those pin connectors anywhere, but if a banana is rated for 15-20A, I can't imagine the pins are more than that. The total surface area is much less than a banana.