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View Full Version : Anyone Been Able to Try a Surh SL68


ufguy73
01-29-2012, 06:08 PM
am interested in getting something in the plexi space that has more grunt than a 45/100 - LZ to early EVH type stuff.

I was generally trying to decide between a Metro 12,000 or a Germino HR100.

But I have recently seen PT's clip of the Suhr SL68 and am definitely intrigued by this one.

General question though: is the SL68 made to the same high quality, turret board (non-PCB) construction as George's and Greg's late '60s plexi variants?

Anyone happen to have any experience across the three?

scriptphase
01-29-2012, 07:31 PM
Does a second SL68 exist? I thought it was a one-off that Suhr could duplicate. Never heard of anyone aside from Pete Thorn having one.

ufguy73
01-29-2012, 08:01 PM
it is an offering that anyone can order...of course, the only person i have ever heard talk about one is pete :)

hence, some of my questions

fusionbear
01-29-2012, 09:39 PM
am interested in getting something in the plexi space that has more grunt than a 45/100 - LZ to early EVH type stuff.

I was generally trying to decide between a Metro 12,000 or a Germino HR100.

But I have recently seen PT's clip of the Suhr SL68 and am definitely intrigued by this one.

General question though: is the SL68 made to the same high quality, turret board (non-PCB) construction as George's and Greg's late '60s plexi variants?

Anyone happen to have any experience across the three?

I have had the privilege of playing all three and all three are awesome, but the SL68 is the most versatile IMO. It has a full power and a variac setting on it that lets the amp "brown" out without having to rebias and it sounds spot on for the EVH brown tone. In full power mode, it get Led Zep tone easily and will still scream when cranked like a great SL. The SL68 was very quiet as well. The Suhr is also made to the highest quality parts just like the Metro and Germino. The SL68 was the one at the LA Amp show last year, I think it was Pete's amp.

You can't go wrong with any of the three IMO, but the SL68 would be the one I would buy if I had the scratch...

fusionbear
01-29-2012, 10:49 PM
Thank you fusionbear. I'm in the same camp as the OP. Love my Germino Monterey, and the search for a good vintage plexi is such a chore. The SL68 has upturned the apple cart a bit. But none of them are easy to play before you buy.

Other than the variac'd setting, what would be more flexible about the SL68 vs the others?

That would be it, all of them are very basic plug and play amps...

ufguy73
01-30-2012, 06:40 AM
thanks a lot!

yeah, its funny - with these types of amp just the simple addition of the variac is the equivalent of bells and whistles :)

i would like to see if it might be possible to get them to add a true bypass fx loop on the suhr (i think the 12,000) has this so maybe it is feasible with the circuit.

do you happen to know how the SL68 achieves its rebias trick? although obviously tremendously cool, that is actually what had me slightly worried that we might be entering the digital/pcb realm of modern marshalls....not that there is anything wrong with that but im on a little bit of a simpler is better kick it seems.

trailrun100s
01-30-2012, 06:43 AM
thanks a lot!

yeah, its funny - with these types of amp just the simple addition of the variac is the equivalent of bells and whistles :)

i would like to see if it might be possible to get them to add a true bypass fx loop on the suhr (i think the 12,000) has this so maybe it is feasible with the circuit.

do you happen to know how the SL68 achieves its rebias trick? although obviously tremendously cool, that is actually what had me slightly worried that we might be entering the digital/pcb realm of modern marshalls....not that there is anything wrong with that but im on a little bit of a simpler is better kick it seems.

Just call or email Suhr...Get the info straight from the source...

ufguy73
01-30-2012, 01:46 PM
i actually had asked suhr but was waiting for a response...no deal on the loop, whiich seems kind of unfortunate.

i have liked what i heard so far but thinking it would be really nice to have the loop for reverb and delays

scriptphase
01-30-2012, 05:56 PM
Line out--effects--power amp--seperate cab might be a better idea anyway, since the SL68 is intended to have the power section distorting.

EelEye
01-30-2012, 06:53 PM
i actually had asked suhr but was waiting for a response...no deal on the loop, whiich seems kind of unfortunate.

i have liked what i heard so far but thinking it would be really nice to have the loop for reverb and delays

Metropoulos will build a 12000 series with a loop and a PPI master volume if you want. You can completely switch the loop out of the circuit if you want.

In my opinion, you can't go wrong with George's stuff. The Metropoulos 12000 series KILLS, and it also has a low voltage setting where the tubes are getting about 400 volts--it doesn't work the same way as the Suhr amp, but George can build you the amp with a lot of flexibility.

PM me if you want to discuss.

ufguy73
01-30-2012, 07:20 PM
Line out--effects--power amp--seperate cab might be a better idea anyway, since the SL68 is intended to have the power section distorting.

sorry but i am a complete idiot when it comes to this sort of thing...can you describe a little more what you are suggesting and what would be needed?

is this the wet/dry type of thing...which i hve never gotten my pea brain around either :)

fusionbear
01-30-2012, 07:36 PM
i actually had asked suhr but was waiting for a response...no deal on the loop, whiich seems kind of unfortunate.

i have liked what i heard so far but thinking it would be really nice to have the loop for reverb and delays

These amps just don't do well with a loop IMO. It is better to use something like the Alex attenuator and use the line out to your effects and then to another amp for the wet sounds.

Something like this:

Guitar>Amp>attenuator>Cab #1
Line out from attenuator> effects> power amp> Cab#2

This is my preferred way to do it with a Super Lead type amp. You could also do it the Eric Johnson way like this:

Guitar>Amp>Cab #1

Microphone on Cab#1>Mini PA board>loop send on PA Board>effects> loop return on PA board> Powered Speakers (EJ uses the Eon JBL's). Main out of mini PA board to house mixer.

Rogue
01-30-2012, 07:42 PM
These amps just don't do well with a loop IMO.
What is your experience? Particularly with delays?

Husky
01-30-2012, 09:55 PM
i actually had asked suhr but was waiting for a response...no deal on the loop, whiich seems kind of unfortunate.

i have liked what i heard so far but thinking it would be really nice to have the loop for reverb and delays

If you want a loop I can do one but it takes away from the purity of the amp.
Also if you will be slamming the output section (most likely) the effects will be distorted which is not ideal. Really best to use a slave out (which I could install in the amp) and use a second power amp and cab for effects. That is pretty much the holy grail way to run this style of amp. I can also put in a PPI if you want on the back but again it takes away from what this amp does best. Better off using a good attenuator.
There are NO PCBs in this amp (not that I couldn't do the same thing with them) , it is 100% hardwired and laced up old style with lacing yarn and old style hookup wire as well, uses Military PEC Pots as well, these are expensive!. Nickel plated eyelets in a 3/32" board. I find the Eyelets to be the best and cleanest IMO. No wires will ever drop out the bottom either since everything is fed thru the face and hooked back in to the eyelet. The dual bias is just that, two bias pots one for each power setting. We also etch and spray all our own plexi panels, no kit parts here and a steel chassis for this one.

ufguy73
01-31-2012, 07:47 AM
john, thanks a lot for taking the time to post here!

i have actually received some feedback from others that loops don't seem to be a great pairing with this type of circuit - but it is AWESOME you would be willing to make that an option.

although i have not ever used a wet/dry set-up, i suspect this might be the optimal thing to do if i ever wanted to use a lot of reverb or delay. I would be putting this through an Alex attenuator, which i am pretty sure already has a line out so i think the only things i am missing would be a power amp (and potentially a smaller cab to run it through, unless i could just use the other 4x12 in my stack and run the dry as a half stack itself).

it probably would make sense to put a line out in the head, for potential future flexibility i guess.

i think this amp sounds awesome in Pete's clips and the variac/re-biasing is a great feature - thanks for making it available to a hack like me!!

Husky
01-31-2012, 10:36 AM
john, thanks a lot for taking the time to post here!

i have actually received some feedback from others that loops don't seem to be a great pairing with this type of circuit - but it is AWESOME you would be willing to make that an option.

although i have not ever used a wet/dry set-up, i suspect this might be the optimal thing to do if i ever wanted to use a lot of reverb or delay. I would be putting this through an Alex attenuator, which i am pretty sure already has a line out so i think the only things i am missing would be a power amp (and potentially a smaller cab to run it through, unless i could just use the other 4x12 in my stack and run the dry as a half stack itself).

it probably would make sense to put a line out in the head, for potential future flexibility i guess.

i think this amp sounds awesome in Pete's clips and the variac/re-biasing is a great feature - thanks for making it available to a hack like me!!

I can install the line out for you but it wont have a phase switch and be transformer isolated unless you use out line out box. Sometimes that is an issue sometimes not. Here is a iphone pic of one we are finishing up.
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1987829/SL68.jpg

ufguy73
01-31-2012, 12:25 PM
ah, FINALLY - a gut shot!! :)

looks great - you actually do all these yourself John or you've got a team that works on all the HW models?

andyk
01-31-2012, 12:41 PM
Dry/Wet is the best way to go, IF you have a second cabinet/amp. You can also use a combo amp, running the FX unit into the FX loop of the combo (set to clean). I use a tiny Tech 21 TM-10 for FX at home with my Marshall 1959 w/ no loop. Works great, and you don't mess up the original dry tone.

For larger venues, I would think you could use a 100 watt combo as the wet FX rig.

Husky
01-31-2012, 01:01 PM
ah, FINALLY - a gut shot!! :)

looks great - you actually do all these yourself John or you've got a team that works on all the HW models?

I have been doing most of it but I have a guy now who did this one who is neater than I am. Everything is fully documented by me wire for wire and this kid solders immaculate.

Bamboo
01-31-2012, 01:31 PM
... We also etch and spray all our own plexi panels, no kit parts here and a steel chassis for this one.

Hmm.. so within reason you could do different colors for the panels?

Husky
01-31-2012, 02:16 PM
Hmm.. so within reason you could do different colors for the panels?

I have black and Silver besides gold, if you wanted something else it would be an upcharge to purchase.
We can also play with the background color, Cream lettering on a Black plexi with a Creme headshell and Creme knobs is pretty wicked.

GT100
01-31-2012, 04:17 PM
John,
is there any audible difference using an aluminum chassis v.s. the steel ones you are using? Or is this more audio fool stuff?

Thanks

Lloyd

GT100
01-31-2012, 04:21 PM
Oh, and how many watts is the amp in each (Plate Voltage) setting?

Thanks again

Lloyd

cardinal
01-31-2012, 04:28 PM
Wow, that's nice looking work.

Husky
01-31-2012, 06:04 PM
Oh, and how many watts is the amp in each (Plate Voltage) setting?
John,
is there any audible difference using an aluminum chassis v.s. the steel ones you are using? Or is this more audio fool stuff?


Thanks again

Lloyd

100 and about 50 RMS last time I checked, the low power setting is easier on the tubes and sweeter though, more brown and not like a 1/2Pwr switch.
There is something going on in Aluminum vs Steel, they both sound great but they are a little different. I cant say anything more intelligent unless I do some double blind testing. Basically though it was Steel so I'm using Steel. Aluminum is on the SH100 since that is what Scott has but it isnt as durable that is for sure.

Dave_C
01-31-2012, 06:12 PM
These amps just don't do well with a loop IMO. It is better to use something like the Alex attenuator and use the line out to your effects and then to another amp for the wet sounds.

Something like this:

Guitar>Amp>attenuator>Cab #1
Line out from attenuator> effects> power amp> Cab#2

This is my preferred way to do it with a Super Lead type amp. You could also do it the Eric Johnson way like this:

Guitar>Amp>Cab #1

Microphone on Cab#1>Mini PA board>loop send on PA Board>effects> loop return on PA board> Powered Speakers (EJ uses the Eon JBL's). Main out of mini PA board to house mixer.

Agree 1000%. If you're going to go through the trouble of seeking out and paying top dollar for a world class vintage Marshall repro, you're defeating the whole purpose by adding a loop and MV. You're way better off using an attenuator to control volume and adding a wet side if you need FX.

But, I just did a gig with my Germino half stack using method #1 above and felt the wet side was just a waste of time and effort. The reverb just got totally lost in the crowd noise and room reflections...not to mention the roaring band itself. In a small, dry room with no audience and a quiet, dynamic band - maybe - but in all other circumstances, especially with a quality 4x12 and great speakers (which is almost an ambient effect in itself, IMO) I won't even bother with the wet side from now on.

But, the attenuator is absolutely essential!!!

Dave_C
01-31-2012, 06:16 PM
john, thanks a lot for taking the time to post here!

i have actually received some feedback from others that loops don't seem to be a great pairing with this type of circuit - but it is AWESOME you would be willing to make that an option.

although i have not ever used a wet/dry set-up, i suspect this might be the optimal thing to do if i ever wanted to use a lot of reverb or delay. I would be putting this through an Alex attenuator, which i am pretty sure already has a line out so i think the only things i am missing would be a power amp (and potentially a smaller cab to run it through, unless i could just use the other 4x12 in my stack and run the dry as a half stack itself).

it probably would make sense to put a line out in the head, for potential future flexibility i guess.

i think this amp sounds awesome in Pete's clips and the variac/re-biasing is a great feature - thanks for making it available to a hack like me!!

I use a little Lunchbox ZT as my wet side. You can feed it the Alex line out directly without the need for speaker sim because the ZT has it. Here's what the whole thing looks like.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y43/maz_master/IMG_0049.jpg

ufguy73
01-31-2012, 07:25 PM
hey dave - thanks for the pic and thought!

i think that little Lunchbox might be a good option for me - just a small little box to add some reverb/delay.

though, to be honest, since moving to the 4x12 there is so much space and depth there that i have never really missed having reverb at all.

i also notice that you have a super strat style suhr - along with the amp, i am also considering getting my first of this type of model (and also thinking of going suhr route for this to) how do you like it?

mind if i follow up with a PM?

Dave_C
01-31-2012, 09:51 PM
hey dave - thanks for the pic and thought!

i think that little Lunchbox might be a good option for me - just a small little box to add some reverb/delay.

though, to be honest, since moving to the 4x12 there is so much space and depth there that i have never really missed having reverb at all.

i also notice that you have a super strat style suhr - along with the amp, i am also considering getting my first of this type of model (and also thinking of going suhr route for this to) how do you like it?

mind if i follow up with a PM?

You're welcome! My pleasure! PM me anytime you'd like.

Yeah, agree about the 4x12 creating space and depth.

As for the Suhr guitar, it's all I ever play anymore! Love it! In fact, it needs some maintenance and I don't even want to send it back to John to be without it for any length of time. Highly recommended!

GT100
01-31-2012, 10:15 PM
100 and about 50 RMS last time I checked, the low power setting is easier on the tubes and sweeter though, more brown and not like a 1/2Pwr switch.
There is something going on in Aluminum vs Steel, they both sound great but they are a little different. I cant say anything more intelligent unless I do some double blind testing. Basically though it was Steel so I'm using Steel. Aluminum is on the SH100 since that is what Scott has but it isnt as durable that is for sure.

Hey, if you fly me down there I'll participate in that research!
;)

Lloyd
Vancouver,BC
Canada

catalin gramada
10-25-2012, 07:20 AM
If you want a loop I can do one but it takes away from the purity of the amp.
Also if you will be slamming the output section (most likely) the effects will be distorted which is not ideal. Really best to use a slave out (which I could install in the amp) and use a second power amp and cab for effects. That is pretty much the holy grail way to run this style of amp. I can also put in a PPI if you want on the back but again it takes away from what this amp does best. Better off using a good attenuator.
There are NO PCBs in this amp (not that I couldn't do the same thing with them) , it is 100% hardwired and laced up old style with lacing yarn and old style hookup wire as well, uses Military PEC Pots as well, these are expensive!. Nickel plated eyelets in a 3/32" board. I find the Eyelets to be the best and cleanest IMO. No wires will ever drop out the bottom either since everything is fed thru the face and hooked back in to the eyelet. The dual bias is just that, two bias pots one for each power setting. We also etch and spray all our own plexi panels, no kit parts here and a steel chassis for this one.

Hello
100% agree. is better to use acoustic coupling instead electric coupling into a loop using modulation effects. More-better to use a separate decoupled cabinet instead to use diferent speaker into one cab.Or best - to use two separate left /right cabs for real panning modulation effects.
Btw. it sound amazing , I wonder how much it cost ?
Thanks
Catalin