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astainback
02-07-2006, 09:42 AM
Did anyone mod their Vox wah themselves.. and if you did, where did you get the kit? That is.. if you did it by kit.. if you didn't do it by kit, where did you get the instructions and parts list?

I want to do the true bypass mod and maybe a voicing mod. I used to really like this wah and lately it seems a little dull. I still love it on clean sounds, but it sucks with drive/distortion.

Thanks,
adrian

gulliver
02-07-2006, 07:40 PM
Search www.diystompoxes.com (currently down), they will have some links.

I just did a physical mod on my Dunlop Hendrix (as in an hour ago). Now it's spring loaded with a bolt stopper in the back (low) position to keep it from getting too low. A real nice effect, a very mild wah where the "off" setting has a mid-pedal midrange honk. Nudging the pedal against the spring gives the mild wah tone ... very fast, or slow if you keep your foot on it.

stinkfoot
02-08-2006, 04:13 AM
Lots of good info here: http://homepage.ntlworld.com/s.castledine/greenfuz/wah.html

/Andreas

gproud5150
02-08-2006, 05:30 AM
I did the true bypass mod on mine. Big difference in terms of not sucking your tone when it's off. Also, I removed the rubber feet off the bottom of the rocker pedal. It gives the wah a nicer sweep, and it can be switched on and off so much easier. I think it's a great sounding wah. I'm always getting remarks from other guitar players when I'm at a gig about how good my wah sounds.

Stormin
02-08-2006, 05:53 AM
Adrian,

This is the simple version. Go buy a DPDT stomp switch from anywhere. Mine cost six bucks. Many people recommend a Carling 316PP switch that is avauilable on the net from http://www.ampwares.com/switches.html and others.

Download the schematic from http://www.fulltone.com/v847.html
Download the instructions from http://www.fulltone.com/V847copy.html

The entire mod takes about ten minutes and is very easy to do.

clothwiring
02-08-2006, 06:14 AM
I also did my true bypass using the Fulltone schematic. I think I bought the switch on Ebay.

astainback
02-09-2006, 06:07 AM
Thanks stormin!!

astainback
02-09-2006, 06:27 AM
Did anyone do the voicing mod?? It's the one to make the pedal more vocal?

thanks,
adrian

bluesaxe
02-09-2006, 09:57 PM
Did anyone do the voicing mod?? It's the one to make the pedal more vocal?

thanks,
adrian

I've done the voicing mod on a Cry Baby. It's pretty cool and gives the wah a lot more range. I'm back to using a Vox 847 w/ true bypass mod. I just like the Vox sound the best.

bluesaxe

astainback
02-17-2006, 11:39 PM
I just finished the TB mod and the vocal mod to my wah..

The 33K to 68K vocal mod was nice!! I soldered the alligator clips like you said and tried out and compared the 33k, 68k, and 100k. 100k had some feedback on the top end... and I wasn't feeling it. I really liked the 68k setting so I soldered it in.

Thanks for the tip!!!

Anyone with the vox 847 or dunlop rev. D should try it!!

devnulljp
02-23-2008, 01:56 PM
Are there instructions anywhere for installing the whipple inductor or is it a no brainer?
I've done the true bypass mod to my Vox, and will experiment with the vocal mods when I get a minute -- thinking about grabbing the whipple off ebay but how does it install?
Thanks for any pointers

mistercoffee1
02-23-2008, 04:01 PM
Are there instructions anywhere for installing the whipple inductor or is it a no brainer?
I've done the true bypass mod to my Vox, and will experiment with the vocal mods when I get a minute -- thinking about grabbing the whipple off ebay but how does it install?
Thanks for any pointers

The Whipple fits into a V847, but the pins are not as obvious.
Pins 1 & 8 are the ones you need to solder to the board. Look for instructions here:
http://www.myspace.com/whippleinductor
With the pin spacing of the Whipple, you would use the holes that are diagonally located (if you're looking at the top or bottom of your board). You can check the pin spacing by placing the Whipple against the board and seeing where the pins can line up.
They would fit in either the two holes in blue, or the two holes in red, depending on where there's room surrounding it with the rest of the resistors and caps in place. Mine ended up in the two red holes shown below:
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n171/mistercoffee1/WahBoard.jpg

In the end, it should look something like this:
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n171/mistercoffee1/VoxGuts.jpg

walterw
02-23-2008, 05:44 PM
Lots of good info here: http://homepage.ntlworld.com/s.castledine/greenfuz/wah.html

/Andreas
+1, and andreas would know! i modded my vox with this
http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=362
which did a good job of giving me a continuous, smooth bass-to-treble sweep rather than jumping up in the middle. i then did the volume mod, since it had already been true-bypassed. i tried the mod to increase the treble range, but it made the pedal sorta "not vox" sounding, so i went back to stock for that. all i need to do now is score some sort of boutique inductor for it, and then i'll be cool!

devnulljp
02-23-2008, 06:30 PM
Wow, thanks mistercoffee1. Exactly what I needed to know [...scuttles off to ebay...]

mistercoffee1
02-23-2008, 06:43 PM
Wow, thanks mistercoffee1. Exactly what I needed to know [...scuttles off to ebay...]

BTW, he usually includes 33k, 68k, and 100k resistors with each of his Whipples to try out as the Q resistor. Before trying the vocal mod (Q resistor), wait to switch inductors first to see what sounds best with it.

I've had one other type of inductor that sounded better with 33k and lower, rather than the recommended 68k or 100k.

devnulljp
04-09-2008, 12:39 AM
BTW, he usually includes 33k, 68k, and 100k resistors with each of his Whipples to try out as the Q resistor. Before trying the vocal mod (Q resistor), wait to switch inductors first to see what sounds best with it.

I've had one other type of inductor that sounded better with 33k and lower, rather than the recommended 68k or 100k.

Thanks for all the info. I finally got round to modding my V847. I was a little confused with the pin thing, but your diagram helped. The stock inductor is held in place by 4 pins, and the Whipple also has 4 pins + an extra leg. The instructions of the Whipple page suggest anchoring the other ones as mechanical support, but also says that as they don't do anything it's OK to just tuck them out of the way and solder in only 1 & 8, which is what I did.
Also did the swap out the 33k for 68k vocal mod, and it's much closer to the sound I was trying for. Also put in the foxrox buffer while I was at it, so it should sound better with a fuzz after it (fuzz is out on loan at the moment, so I can't try it yet).

So, it's really a pretty tricked out wah now. TB, vocal mod, whipple inductor. Nice. Thanks all.

wildschwein
04-09-2008, 12:48 AM
For anyone else who is interested there is mod instructions and various links over at Fuzz Central. There are instructions for GCB-95 Crybabies and Vox 847s - all the mods you'll need including true bypass and assorted resistor changes to improve the sound. Everuthing can be sourced from an electronics store. I did all of them on my GCB-95 and it sounds 1 million percent better than it did stock.
See: http://fuzzcentral.ssguitar.com/axiswah.php

DaveukRN
04-09-2008, 06:07 AM
For those who are less adept at soldering etc, area 51 do this drop in mod for Vox/Crybaby

http://area51tubeaudiodesigns.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=001&Product_Code=viwkdropin&Category_Code=cat002

4styx
04-09-2008, 11:38 AM
Why does no one run a wire from ground input jack to ground output jack?I would think using the enclosure as a conductor would be a tonesuck,no?

jrm
04-09-2008, 11:59 AM
How about adding a LED to a wah? I'd love to figure that one out? I've never soldered in my life, but I'd love to mod up my 847 for true bypass, a DC jack, and an LED. Anyone have any pointers?

mistercoffee1
04-09-2008, 12:19 PM
How about adding a LED to a wah? I'd love to figure that one out? I've never soldered in my life, but I'd love to mod up my 847 for true bypass, a DC jack, and an LED. Anyone have any pointers?

http://area51tubeaudiodesigns.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=001&Product_Code=tbkitled&Category_Code=cat002

drolling
04-09-2008, 01:33 PM
Thanks for all the info. I finally got round to modding my V847. I was a little confused with the pin thing, but your diagram helped. The stock inductor is held in place by 4 pins, and the Whipple also has 4 pins + an extra leg. The instructions of the Whipple page suggest anchoring the other ones as mechanical support, but also says that as they don't do anything it's OK to just tuck them out of the way and solder in only 1 & 8, which is what I did.
Also did the swap out the 33k for 68k vocal mod, and it's much closer to the sound I was trying for. Also put in the foxrox buffer while I was at it, so it should sound better with a fuzz after it (fuzz is out on loan at the moment, so I can't try it yet).

So, it's really a pretty tricked out wah now. TB, vocal mod, whipple inductor. Nice. Thanks all.Hey, thanks for posting your experience installing the whipple - I noticed that my V-847 has holes for any type of inductor when I swapped out the stock 4-pin inductor for a 2-pin Fasel RI.

Inductors really seem to make a big difference.. not consistent from one circuit to another. My old Dunlop Crybaby completely flipped out when I put in a yellow Fasel, but the same part in the VOX really works great.

Like you, I did the FoxRox mod too - Highly recommended! You'll now be able to use it in front (where it belongs, imo) of any vintage-style fuzz with great results.

What type of switch did you go with? I used a 5 buck MIC the first time around, but stomped it to death in a half hour! No need to blow the wad on a Carling now that there're so many brands available. The DP/DT in there now cost about $10 (canadian) and has held up very well so far

paraedolia
05-05-2008, 04:01 AM
Can someone post a good pic of the 3PDT wiring?
I think I've got it but I wasn't sure which way round the switch went and most of the diagrams are for 2PDT switches. My switch has a little number '8' on one corner...
I kinda used the one here (http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Electronics,_pickups/Components:_Switches_and_knobs/1/Fulltone_3PDT_Stomp_Switch/Instructions/I-1561.html), but wasn't sure of the orientation of the switch...
http://www.stewmac.com/freeinfo/i-1561/1561_dia1.gif

stinkfoot
05-05-2008, 04:29 AM
In relation to the above diagram, the 3PDT is oriented so the holes in the soldering lugs line up north/south. You should be able to thread a needle through 1-2-3, 4-5-6 and 7-8-9, respectively.

/Andreas

paraedolia
05-05-2008, 04:34 AM
In relation to the above diagram, the 3PDT is oriented so the holes in the soldering lugs line up north/south. You should be able to thread a needle through 1-2-3, 4-5-6 and 7-8-9, respectively.

/Andreas
Thanks for the info.
Does it matter which way up it goes (so the wire connected to lug#1 can also goto #9 instead with the whole switch upside down etc.)?

1 4 7
2 5 8
3 6 9

or

9 6 3
8 5 2
7 4 1

wildschwein
05-05-2008, 04:44 AM
http://fuzzcentral.ssguitar.com/axiswah.php

Everything you need to know for modding Vox 847s & Original Crybabies is here.

I followed it and did a mod job (true bypass, gain & q mods) on my GCB-95 Crybaby and I'm no genius with electronics. You don't need to swap out the transistors - that's a bit more work. All parts including the resistors and the double pole/double throw switch (DPDT) can be sourced at an electronics store for less than the price of lunch.

stinkfoot
05-05-2008, 04:47 AM
Thanks for the info.
Does it matter which way up it goes (so the wire connected to lug#1 can also goto #9 instead with the whole switch upside down etc.)?

1 4 7
2 5 8
3 6 9

or

9 6 3
8 5 2
7 4 1No - getting the orientation right is all about getting the three switch sections (rows of lugs) right. If you rotate it 90 degrees off, it will not work. A 180 degree rotation (from where it's supposed to be) will put it back in line. Once you have the right orientation, just follow the numbers in the diagram when soldering.

/Andreas

paraedolia
05-05-2008, 04:59 AM
No - getting the orientation right is all about getting the three switch sections (rows of lugs) right. If you rotate it 90 degrees off, it will not work. A 180 degree rotation (from where it's supposed to be) will put it back in line. Once you have the right orientation, just follow the numbers in the diagram when soldering.

/Andreas
Magic! Thanks
(Got it right).

paraedolia
05-26-2008, 03:05 AM
Am I the only one that snaps the pins off Whipples? Been fiddling for 1/2 hour trying to get it into a crybaby and snap. Pin 8 gone.
I've dissected fruit fly brains, pulled salivary glands from their larvae, cut out tiny bands of DNA with a scalpel blade, separated different cell types from differentiating slime moulds...but nothing compares to how finicky, fragile, and frustrating an experience that was. Are the Fasels any sturdier?

chrisg_75
05-27-2008, 03:24 PM
Adrian,

This is the simple version. Go buy a DPDT stomp switch from anywhere. Mine cost six bucks. Many people recommend a Carling 316PP switch that is avauilable on the net from http://www.ampwares.com/switches.html and others.

Download the schematic from http://www.fulltone.com/v847.html
Download the instructions from http://www.fulltone.com/V847copy.html

The entire mod takes about ten minutes and is very easy to do.

Ok...Can i ask a quick question on this please...I got qa DPDT switch from local electronics store, but how do you know which terminal number is which. Mine has three terminals down each side evenly.

Cheers
Chris

seiko
05-27-2008, 03:30 PM
Hey

I'm curious about this obscure German-made wah and how it sounds. Anyone got one or can shine a light on what other wahs it might be similar to? I heard that its possible that they may be re-badged hofners, but then I've never heard one of those either.

Thanks

Axekisser
05-27-2008, 03:43 PM
I put a pot in my Dunlop for the "vocal" resistor and wired a switch to choose between a red Fasel and an original "stack-o-dimes." Also added a power LED to confirm it's powered! Great, versatile wah now.

mistercoffee1
05-27-2008, 04:14 PM
Am I the only one that snaps the pins off Whipples? Been fiddling for 1/2 hour trying to get it into a crybaby and snap. Pin 8 gone.
I've dissected fruit fly brains, pulled salivary glands from their larvae, cut out tiny bands of DNA with a scalpel blade, separated different cell types from differentiating slime moulds...but nothing compares to how finicky, fragile, and frustrating an experience that was. Are the Fasels any sturdier?

Never had any issue with mine (the one pictured on Page 1 of this thread). I even removed it and resoldered it, while having to rebend the anchor pin. Seemed pretty sturdy. Did you try emailing Michael?

stinkfoot
05-27-2008, 04:14 PM
Ok...Can i ask a quick question on this please...I got qa DPDT switch from local electronics store, but how do you know which terminal number is which. Mine has three terminals down each side evenly.

Cheers
ChrisA DPDT is quite easy, as it isn't symmetrical (like a 3PDT) - the three terminals on either side correspond to terminals 1-3 and 4-6 in the 3PDT diagram posted earlier.

/Andreas

paraedolia
05-27-2008, 04:46 PM
Never had any issue with mine (the one pictured on Page 1 of this thread). I even removed it and resoldered it, while having to rebend the anchor pin. Seemed pretty sturdy. Did you try emailing Michael?I had it in an old Vox, and it just slipped right in, but the crybaby hole placement is slightly different and I snapped off one of the active pins...I ended up gouging out the base around the stub of the pin with an exacto and soldering on a length of wire, which seems to work OK but it means the inductor has to be raised of the PCB. (As for emailing Michael, didn't want to bother him about what comes down to my clumsiness...not much can be done except be more careful next time I suppose).

chrisg_75
05-27-2008, 05:29 PM
A DPDT is quite easy, as it isn't symmetrical (like a 3PDT) - the three terminals on either side correspond to terminals 1-3 and 4-6 in the 3PDT diagram posted earlier.

/Andreas

Thanx Andreas

So its not that one of the terminals is 1 not matter which way you turn it but just once you start then allocate the number consecutively along each side and stick with it...would that be correct. ie its not critical for the firt one so to speak, can is tuff things up if i make a mistake ?

tbone666
05-27-2008, 05:55 PM
I bought the area 51 kit . i think i need to tweak my pot a bit, re: the rotation but the tone is far superior from the stock vox.

walterw
05-27-2008, 07:57 PM
Why does no one run a wire from ground input jack to ground output jack?I would think using the enclosure as a conductor would be a tonesuck,no?
i believe the housing is aluminum, an excellent conductor, but you might have a point. maybe it would be good to hard solder the grounds of the jacks together.

chrisg_75
05-27-2008, 09:15 PM
Thanx Andreas

So its not that one of the terminals is 1 not matter which way you turn it but just once you start then allocate the number consecutively along each side and stick with it...would that be correct. ie its not critical for the firt one so to speak, can is tuff things up if i make a mistake ?


Hey Guys

Just further to this i just want to know if i can stuff things up installing the foot switch wrong as the DPDT switch i have has three terminals down either side with no decernable features to indicate right or wrong way around although there is a 5 at one end underneath.

walterw
05-27-2008, 10:55 PM
the switch is symmetrical, so it doesn't matter. it's the 3pdt, with its 3x3 arrangement, that risks getting turned 90 degrees (1/4 turn) off.

stinkfoot
05-28-2008, 05:04 AM
Yup. The DPDT is hard to get wrong, as the two rows of three lugs are easily identifiable. Flip it around 180 degrees (before you start soldering), and it will work the same way.

The 3PDT - with its 3x3 layout - needs a little more care, like Walter said.

/Andreas

chrisg_75
06-08-2008, 12:19 AM
Ok...One More question here guys please....
I have V847...and i have done the TB switch mod. I have also changed the 33k resister to a 68K resister for the vocal mod. I was reading about once the TB mod has been done then there will be a drop in vol with the pedal on, whichis what i found so i changed the 68K resister in themiddle of the board to a 47K (could only get 1W andnot 0.5W from the store if thismakes a difference.) My question is i am now getting major radio stations when the pedal is on at the moment and am not sure how to get rid of this......anyone help please as there is a bit of a vol drop with the TB which i would like to get rid of.

Cheers again
Chris

warioblast
06-08-2008, 08:27 AM
Ok...One More question here guys please....
I have V847...and i have done the TB switch mod. I have also changed the 33k resister to a 68K resister for the vocal mod. I was reading about once the TB mod has been done then there will be a drop in vol with the pedal on, whichis what i found so i changed the 68K resister in themiddle of the board to a 47K (could only get 1W andnot 0.5W from the store if thismakes a difference.) My question is i am now getting major radio stations when the pedal is on at the moment and am not sure how to get rid of this......anyone help please as there is a bit of a vol drop with the TB which i would like to get rid of.

Cheers again
Chris

You can try either lowering the value of the volume resistor or lowering the bass/gain resistor.
Right now my wah has a 47k volume resistor and a 470 ohms gain resistor and it has pretty much unity gain. But when I modded the gain resistor to 330 ohms, I had to raise the volume resistor to 80k because of the volume boost.
Did you mess the pot, rack gear and stuff ? http://www.happybob.com/marc/pot_adjustment_procedure.htm
I've never had problems with my wah picking up radio signals, but I felt raising up the Q resistor made the wah noisier, notably with fuzz.

americananalog
06-08-2008, 12:58 PM
Vox V847 sounds better AFTER fuzz/distortion. If your running the V847 in front of a dirt box or into a distorted amp you'll need a buffer mod (Area 51 or Foxrox) to get the maximum sweep. Either that or get a Dunlop Cry Baby.

chrisg_75
06-08-2008, 07:57 PM
You can try either lowering the value of the volume resistor or lowering the bass/gain resistor.
Right now my wah has a 47k volume resistor and a 470 ohms gain resistor and it has pretty much unity gain. But when I modded the gain resistor to 330 ohms, I had to raise the volume resistor to 80k because of the volume boost.
Did you mess the pot, rack gear and stuff ? http://www.happybob.com/marc/pot_adjustment_procedure.htm
I've never had problems with my wah picking up radio signals, but I felt raising up the Q resistor made the wah noisier, notably with fuzz.

I do have the 47K resister in for the volume. I initially had the 33K one in there but thats when i got the radio stations so i got a 47K resister instead but im still getting the radio stations and am not sure which is the gain resistor you are talking about. Im not that good with electronics and stuff yet lol.

Cheers

warioblast
06-09-2008, 04:36 AM
Have a look ;)

Lots of good info here:
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/s.castledine/greenfuz/wah.html

/Andreas

chrisg_75
06-09-2008, 06:36 PM
Have a look ;)

Yeah Thanx mate. That is what iw as working off and trying to determine what i needed to change. So considering i have the volume resistor (or the 68K input resistor on the V847 reference photo) replaced witha 47K 1w resistor, should i try changing the 470R one is that correct ? And does the value i need go up or down ?

Thanx for the help i dont want to listen to radio stations any more lol

Cheers
Chris

warioblast
06-10-2008, 05:36 AM
A lower value (390, 330R) will make the wah louder and add a little more bass.
My best advice in case you have not done it yet, is to put sockets in.
http://www.home-wrecker.com/wahboard.jpg
http://www.home-wrecker.com/wahmods.html

Swapping resistors will be as easy as pie. And that will even let you try replacing resistors with pots without too much soldering work. You don't even have to drill holes for the pots. Just make sure the wires are long enough to stay outside the wah shell. This is the easiest & quickest way to fine tune your wah IMO. And whenever you're happy with the results, just measure the pots, replace them with resistors of the same values and be done for good. :cool:

chrisg_75
06-12-2008, 08:43 PM
Ok......Thanx for the help so far esp warioblast. I must say i am still struggling. I have attached picture with mark ups indicating what i have done. After i did the TB mod i did the following in the order indicated. 1 the vocal mod all good. 2 tried this to increase the volume and ended up back where i started with original one in there. Then 3 following the link from warioblast indicating the poss increase in vol but still no luck. I am by no means exeperienced with electronics and this is my first time modding anything so i am a bit slow on the uptake incl where you guys saymeasure the pots etc. over my head sorry ...What is my next step just to get back to same vol level when i turn my wah on and have no radio signals coming through any time.......

http://users.on.net/~chrisleasa/V847%20Board.jpg

cheers for all the help

chrisg_75
06-13-2008, 09:08 PM
anyone......hope i havent worn out my welcome on this thread lol

chrisg_75
06-15-2008, 08:21 PM
bump