5F1 heater circuit - please help

[Fifthstone]

I've started a dry fit of the transformer, fuse, pilot, etc. and am referencing Fender's original layout diagram and am confused.

Don't heater leads from the PT generally run in a twisted pair to the pilot and then in another twisted pair from there to the power tube, with separate supply to rectifier circuit? The diagram shows only one green PT lead to pilot and then from there to pin 7 on the 6V6. Is this right? Should I use separate tabs from the pilot light assembly? One to it from the PT and the other from it to the 6v6? And the other green lead from the PT to ground lug on PT?

PLEASE HELP! Thanks.

[WaltC]

on the early tweeds Fender grounded one side of the filament leads to the chassis and then daisy chained the other to the tubes. they grounded the other filament pin on the tube socket to the chassis. This saved wire, made wiring the chassis easier and took less time, but....<G> produced significantly more hum.

Doing it the way you propose, with tightly twisted pairs to all tubes in parrallel is better for hum and will do the job. Does your PT have a center tap for the filaments? If it does I usually ground it at the same place I ground the AC cord. If it doesn't then you'll need to "make" one using a pair of 100 ohm resistors wired to each side of the filament circuit and the other end connected to ground. What I usually do is run the filament wires to the pilot light then on to the first power tube socket. Back at the pilot light I solder a 100 ohm resistor to each side of the pilot light, twist the other lead on the resistors together and then solder that joint to ground.

It isn't "perfect" but is good enough and certainly better than the old style tweed chassis ground method.

[teleamp]

Fifthstone, see if this layout helps (I love the internet).

https://taweber.powweb.com/store/5f1_layout.jpg

Twist the green filament wires to the pilot lamp and then to the 6V6, then to the 12AX7. Use either the green/yellow center tap or cap it off and use two 100 ohm resistors on each leg (you can do this at the 6V6 tube socket by placing one 100 ohm resistor from pin 2 to pin 8 and one 100 ohm resistor from pin 7 to pin 8) and connect them to pin 8 of the 6V6, this will reduce the hum even more.

Forget about the way the original is done unless you want it exactly like the original, but be prepared for more audible hum.

Also, omit the the cap from the fuse to the chassis, it is called a "death cap" for a reason.