Putting a Decal on a Fender-style neck - spray first?

[WordMan]

So I just got a decal for the Allparts (Fender Japan) Tele neck. The instructions say I should put a thin coat of lacquer on it before I apply the decal.

Really? I have no experience doing this, but it is a finished neck - nitro, according to the Allparts website. Why can't I just slide the decal on it and be done with it?

If I *do* have to put on lacquer - how the heck do I do that?! Do I just go to a local hardware store, buy some nitro lacquer and some cheap and disposable way to apply it (spray guy? brush?) and spray the decal before I try to put it on.

Does this have to be this complicated?

[rmconner80]

IF there is already lacquer down, then you are fine. The object here is to melt the decal into the lacquer beneath, while coating it on top. You will need to spray it.

Nitro "melts" and levels each time you spray. So when you spray a top coat, it actually melts the coat or two beneath it.

Basically you need to degrease the face of the headstock and mask everything else off. Apply the decal, let the water dry completely, then lightly mist several coats. If you spray heavy, the decal will lift / bend.

After misting a few coats, you can apply a light coat and then start with light to regular coats to cover it up and melt it into the layers beneath. It's pretty easy and you can do it in 2-3 days. I usually mist several coats and wait an hour or two, then hit it with my first light coat. Remember to use a tack cloth to get all dust off between coats (after dry). If I'm feeling good I may do another light coat or two. Next day I start putting on the regular coats. Maybe 3 lighter coats (waiting 5-10 minutes between) then you wait 3 hours or a day before repeating. Towards the end you can start with more moderately heavy coats. You have to use your judgement, but when I started, I was timid and it took a while to figure out just how much I could spray (usually more than you think) without getting runs.

For your last few coats, you may want to spray with the neck laying flat, headstock face up. This will assist in leveling the lacquer.

Maple is so flat, and you already have a flat nitro coat, that you may be able to skip wetsanding completely, and just go at it with 3M polishing compound to get it all shiny. You'll need to wait at least 3-4 weeks for curing before polishing it out.

[Mike9]

Yes you need to seal the wood - I'd put two, or three light coats on then wet sand then a light coat of sealer then the decal then two light coats on top then about 9-10 coats of clear wet sanding lightly after the third if you want to bury it. You want to lightly wet sand the top of the decal with @ 600 grit every few coats till it blends in. Don't sand thru to the color, or you'll have to start over - You want to remove finish from the decal while building up the area around it. It's a little time consuming, but worth the effort. Hell I've seen Fender CS headstocks where the decal looks like it's just layed on and sprayed over - pretty cheesy IMO.

[WordMan]

Wow - speaking as a complete noob to this stuff: who knew?

Thanks you guys!!

Stupid Question #2: Okay, so because the neck is lacquered, I'm cool there. I just slide the decal on and let it dry. Then I need to spray over it - here's my question: how do I "spray"? Does the lacquer come in an aerosol can? Or can I buy a can of it - like I would buy paint or turpentine - then pour some lacquer into a cheap plastic spray bottle and use that to mist on the lacquer?

Thanks again - I really appreciate it!

[rmconner80]

www.reranch.com (http://www.reranch.com)

Get the clear nitro and a bottle of the 3M polishing compound. Don't breathe the vapors when shooting nitro.

[Mike9]

Yup - I forgot to mention ReRanch - I use the clear sand and sealer. I find it builds faster.

[blueguitar]

Did the instructions say apply thin coat of lacquer to the headstock or the decal? Many waterslides suggest applying a thin coat of lacquer to the decal to avoid it coming apart when you emmerse it in water. If that is the case then a spray can of lacquer (from any hardware or paint store) can be used to mist coat the decal and seal it. Also, the so called nitro that Allparts uses is very different than conventional nitros. I use McFaddens and have noted when over-coating decals on these necks that there is a obvious witness-line that occurs. In my experience of working with nitro lacquers this should not be the case. Also, I have sanded the so-called Allparts nitro and I have to say I have serious doubts that it is a true nitro.

[walterw]

as a fellow finishing noob, let me relay dan erlewine's oft-repeated advice to try every new trick on scrap wood first!

two questions: does the new layer of nitro actually melt the old layer underneath the decal? and, did leo bother with any of this, or did he just slap the decal on there and send it out the door?
i've always wondered why the original decals weren't put on before the neck was finished, as i would think that would protect it better. too time-consuming to sand, maybe?

[WordMan]

You guys are the best - thanks!!

Reranch website being linked to now...

[blueguitar]

as a fellow finishing noob, let me relay dan erlewine's oft-repeated advice to try every new trick on scrap wood first!



Aren't these forums just scrap wood?!

[outtahear]

did leo bother with any of this, or did he just slap the decal on there and send it out the door?


Early Fender Decals came w/ instructions to use (I believe) Ethelyene Glycol (?) diluted w/distilled water to apply the decals. The clear decal film "carrier" was indeed Nitro lacquer

[punkavenger]

ethelene glycol is anti-freeze... could be used as a wetting agent. poisonous! wash hands immediately after use or better yet use gloves