Diy Amp Kit?????

[FUCHSyea]

I'm thinkin about trying to complete a small point to point amp kit. I've done pedal mods and amp mods/maintence with my own stuff and friends and rather then spend 1000 on a sweet Class A practice amp, i'd like to build one. My question is: Does anyone have any pointers on not only a good kit but one that's reasonably priced and relatively easy to assemble???

:confused:Bdavis

[Old Tele man]

Weber, Allen, etc. make kits, from simple single-ended (SE) amps all the way up to 4x6L6 push-pull (PP) "Twin-like" amps...including Marshall-clones.

[FUCHSyea]

I was looking at the weber kits how are those the smaller ones like the 5E3 that's what i'm lookin to build- do you have any pointers or are the assembly instructions fairly dead on for optimum results??

Thanks-
BDavis

[getbent]

The weber kits include a layout and schematic which you download and print. There are no directions given nor implied. The Allen, Marsh, Mission kits all include instructions. Don't build a kit to save money. For first builds typically the recommendation is to either build a champ or 5f2a. The 5e3 is a straightforward build, but a little more complex. It is certainly doable if you take your time and can solder fairly well.

You might want to visit the weber board, ampage, and 18watt.com and ask over there.. I built a Weber kit and have gotten the bug to build more, I'll be starting on an 18 watt shortly from ceriatone.... do some research and take your time and you'll have great success. But, honestly, you don't usually end up saving a bunch of money by doing it yourself.

[jbever]

I wanted to chime in here. I built my first kit over the Xmas holiday. It was a Mission 5E3. I absolutely love it. I'm your normal guy that's pretty good at following directions and I've soldered on my guitar before.

The hardest thing about the build was getting the darn power cord retainer in!!

I have a DRRI and I have to say that since the build, I play the DRRI less and don't use pedals 70% of the time.

It was fun and I learned a great deal. Also developed a whole new level of respect for the experts on the board that provide all of us with so much free advice.

My advice. Build a 5E3, have fun, mistakes can be corrected and learn a lot in preparation for your second build.

Good luck,
Jerry

[JimmyR]

My first build was a 5E3 which turned out to be a great amp. A friend of mine just built his first amp - a 100W Super Lead kit from Metroamp! Not the easiest first build but I tried it the other day and it sounds awesome.

In terms of quality classic amp kits I would recommend the Mojtone kits. They don't have instructions but are very good quality. For quality original amps with great instructions I would suggest Allen. Very good instructions and good sounding amps, too. I have heard great things about Mission amp kits but have no experience first hand with them.

And if you want an absolutely killer Marshall clone Metroamps are hard to beat. They have boards there to help and those guys really know their stuff.

But getting back to my first build - I had no instructions really - but you can learn a heck of a lot from Weber's boards, Metro, etc. There is a learning curve, but I guarantee that once you start you won't want to stop.

[FUCHSyea]

Got a good list from ampwares for the 5F1 champ schematic-thanks

[rooster]

Try Doberman amps. I believe those may be from Chris Hurley, the originator of the AX84 page, which is pretty much the best online resource for DIY amps.

www.dobermanamps.com

rooster.

[FUCHSyea]

will check out the Mission kits thanks guys

[aleclee]

Try Doberman amps. I believe those may be from Chris Hurley, the originator of the AX84 page, which is pretty much the best online resource for DIY amps.

www.dobermanamps.com (http://www.dobermanamps.com)

rooster.Yeah, Chris founded AX84. Good guy and cool amps.

[Greggy]

The hardest thing about the build was getting the darn power cord retainer in!!



I built an Allen Class Act II head about 2 years ago. I built it with nothing more than the supplied wiring diagram and parts list (this was the chassis only kit, so no instructions). I'm good with a soldering iron and am used to complex tasks, so it wasn't hard at all. That is until I came to the power cord strain relief. It took me hours to insert it into the chassis hole. I almost gave up. LOL.

[jbever]

LOL on the power cord strain relief! I told a local amp tech about my misery with the thing and he pulled out a tool for it. He said it's $50, worth $5,000! A special tool just for the power cord retainer! Now there's experience talkin'!

[jlummaa]

You can buy Dave Hunter's 'The Guitar Amp Handbook' book. In the book you can find instructions of how to build a nice small wattage amp called Two Stroke.

http://www.backbeatbooks.com/?p=087930863X

It seems the amp kit they were selling is somehow discontinued now but of course you can still buy the parts elsewhere.

Here's some info of my Two Stroke project:

http://www2.uiah.fi/~jlummaa/two_stroke/

[Richard Guy]

Please look here www.guytronix.com (http://www.guytronix.com) detailed instructions and 'hand-holding' included :AOK

[mbruffey]

I highly recommend Allen Amps. The instructions are extremely well-done and the parts are high quality. David Allen provides great tech support, too, if you get into a pickle . . . . If "we" can do it, you can do it! Mark (and Matt)

http://home.comcast.net/~mbruffey/ebay/Matt_Dad_Insides_Complete.JPG

[AL30]

LOL on the power cord strain relief! I told a local amp tech about my misery with the thing and he pulled out a tool for it. He said it's $50, worth $5,000! A special tool just for the power cord retainer! Now there's experience talkin'!


Strain Relief Pliers or Heyco Pliers
http://www.studiodepot.com/store/index.cgi?cmd=view_item&parent=1017-1111&id=8273

or

http://www.amazon.com/Heyco-Strain-Relief-Plier-Bushings/dp/B0000YHPFE/ref=cm_syf_dtl_txt_8/002-1272168-1508863/002-1272168-1508863


AL

[Greggy]

Strain Relief Pliers or Heyco Pliers
http://www.studiodepot.com/store/index.cgi?cmd=view_item&parent=1017-1111&id=8273

or

http://www.amazon.com/Heyco-Strain-Relief-Plier-Bushings/dp/B0000YHPFE/ref=cm_syf_dtl_txt_8/002-1272168-1508863/002-1272168-1508863


AL

I'll be damned!:D I ended up using a set of channel locks and 20 or so cuss words.

[FUCHSyea]

5F1 or 5F2A trying to decide i'm looking to build something along the lines of the Alley Cat by Bad Cat as my final out come sot aside. We have one here at the shop it's 7.5 watts EL84 based circuit any ideas on parts lists or chassis?? I already have a custom cab design to drive a 12" Speaker- also what would I have to change to make a 10watt amp in regards to schematic-

Bdavis

[jbever]

A completed 5E3 tweed amp ... about $650

A set of these while you're building ... priceless!

http://ec2.images-amazon.com/images/P/B0000YHPFE.01-A3S73R09HVA18._AA280_SCLZZZZZZZ_.jpg (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/images/B0000YHPFE/ref=dp_image_0/103-4818411-6393428?ie=UTF8&n=228013&s=hi)

[FUCHSyea]

How hard was a 5E3?? I like the circuit of that alot-

[FUCHSyea]

looking for good 2xEL84 Circuit 7w-10w

[BBQLS1]

5E3
5F1
or
18W LiteIIb - the first channel of the 1974x 18Watter tone and volume

all are great.

[FUCHSyea]

Settled on the 5E3 Circuit-LOOKIN for a good place for caps and resistors as well as chassis found a few (Mojo, Ampwares, Torres) anyone have some better sites-thanks

[RupertB]

www.tubesandmore.com (http://www.tubesandmore.com)
www.hoffmanamps.com (http://www.hoffmanamps.com)
www.apexjr.com (http://www.apexjr.com)

My 5E3 build: http://home.bellsouth.net/p/s/community.dll?ep=87&subpageid=137109&ck=

I got the chassis for mine from Hoffman & the transformers from Mojo.
There are some pics of applying tweed to the cab in the Photo Album page.

[FUCHSyea]

I like the idea with the 330 nice!!! that's the idea i'm goin for tone wise too- what is the part exactly that's substituded, also I'm looking to use Sprague AXOM electrolytic Caps are these a good recomendation, i'm assembling my own kit with premium components- your chassis wiring is very good, nice nice nice-

[MikeP]

Hey I 2nd Richard Guy's Gilmore Jr.

This would be the best 1st amp anyone could build & a real Humbler ( is that a word?) for others who have built expensive complicated amps.
Why a humbler? Because this thing is so full of pure tube tone at a price that is less than any boutique pedal I know of.
Really!! Many amps come & go here over the years. This one is a all time keeper. No Kidding!!
http://www.guytronix.com/index.html

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v90/flying333/Gilmore%20Jr/2005_0713_221941AA.jpg

[FUCHSyea]

Just got all my caps and resistors (all Sprague ATOM caps and NOS Carbon Comp resistor) 1 Meg military grade audio taper pots and switchcraft jacks, fuse holder, GTAX7M, GTAY7, for $80 :o) CRAIGS LIST!!!!

IT"S STARTED!!! wooohoo

[FUCHSyea]

What's The Best Style Board???

[RupertB]

I like the idea with the 330 nice!!! that's the idea i'm goin for tone wise too- what is the part exactly that's substituded, also I'm looking to use Sprague AXOM electrolytic Caps are these a good recomendation, i'm assembling my own kit with premium components- your chassis wiring is very good, nice nice nice-

Thanks. The cathode resistor specified in the schematic is 250 ohms/5w. I originally used that value but found the clipping harsh. Also, I discovered that the 6V6s were passing more current than they should have been (don't recall the exact numbers). The 330 ohm cathode resistor was just the ticket. I also used a cathode bypass cap that was rated 50 watts rather than the 25 watts specified.

This is a problem I found in my Vibro Champ as well as the slightly beefed-up Champ build I've just finished. Both now have a cathode resistor that is 60%-70% higher than originally specified and the overdrive on each is much improved.

I don't know about "best" but I used a board from House of Jim: http://members.shaw.ca/house-of-jim/

$20 shipped. I also used one of Jim's boards for my Lightning clone. He does good work & ships fast.

[FUCHSyea]

i meant in regards to material (black board, phenolic, etc...)

[FUCHSyea]

Also anyone know where to place bias pots for adjustment??? any pics would be a HUGE help thanks to all-

[FUCHSyea]

CHASSIS BOX, ALUMINUM, 13.5" x 5" x 2", HAMMOND

would this work for a 5E3 build the premade one has these dimensions
14.5" wide x 4" tall x 2.5" deep, 13.5" mounting centers
but I'm doin a custom chassis so I can place thing a lil differently plus i'm only doin the Normal inputs 1-2 not the brights so that should cover the length difference at least that's what i'm thinking-

[FUCHSyea]

Need info on a good grounding layout or design-thanks

[MikeP]

Need info on a good grounding layout or design-thanks

Here is something simple I did on my 18w Marshall.
I just made a rod soldered to a lug attached to the trannie lug. The other end is just floating but the rod is stiff.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v90/flying333/18w%20project/grounding.jpg

[FUCHSyea]

that's a great Idea!!! Thanks big time- that's like 12-14Gauge Solid Copper?? All my parts come in next week :crazyguy

[MikeP]

that's a great Idea!!! Thanks big time- that's like 12-14Gauge Solid Copper?? All my parts come in next week :crazyguy

Yup thats right. I forget the gauge now pretty heavy though maybe 10-12?
I just got a length of wire & puller the insulation off.
Plenty stiff to support itself & worked great.
It is about 3/4" off the chassis floor.

[FUCHSyea]

nice, just ordered mercury magnetics trannies, i'm goin to use your grounding trick though. Could I go from one lug on OT Trans to the other lug on the PT Trans, should be fine right since they are connected via chassis anyhoo. also I'm using an aluminum chassis so i got a grounding plate any other recomendations??

[FUCHSyea]

also Bias pots???? where can i get and where do i install them?

[vibroverbus]

that's a great Idea!!! Thanks big time- that's like 12-14Gauge Solid Copper?? All my parts come in next week :crazyguy

That's a Buss ground system. Which is neat to lay out and seems like a great idea but you have to be sure all your ducks are in a row, so to speak, or you can still get some significant noise from it and worse, possible oscillation. For a good ref read Randall's great discussion of star grounding & buss grounding.

Whether you use star, or buss, or 'multiple star' grounds (also called 'distributed star' or 'galactic'....) basically the idea is to keep common supply & signal grounds together, and limit the number of places you ground to the chassis, because 'not all grounds are the same' - even if it looks like that big ol' metal chassis plate should just make everything sit at the same potential, it doesn't necessarily.

Of course lots of vintage amps are built with 'random' grounds, but that's also one of the places a modern tasty handbuilt amp will be cleaner and quieter than the old 'real deal'.

http://www.aikenamps.com/StarGround.html

[FUCHSyea]

any reccomends on bias pot install schematic/layout

[Richard Guy]

That's a Buss ground system. Which is neat to lay out and seems like a great idea but you have to be sure all your ducks are in a row, so to speak, or you can still get some significant noise from it and worse, possible oscillation. For a good ref read Randall's great discussion of star grounding & buss grounding.

Whether you use star, or buss, or 'multiple star' grounds (also called 'distributed star' or 'galactic'....) basically the idea is to keep common supply & signal grounds together, and limit the number of places you ground to the chassis, because 'not all grounds are the same' - even if it looks like that big ol' metal chassis plate should just make everything sit at the same potential, it doesn't necessarily.

Of course lots of vintage amps are built with 'random' grounds, but that's also one of the places a modern tasty handbuilt amp will be cleaner and quieter than the old 'real deal'

http://www.aikenamps.com/StarGround.html


+1 for vibroverbus's reply :AOK

First, I'd find a place to star ground where it is centrally equidistant for all ground leads (except AC cord ground). I'd then spot-face the chassis slightly at that location to remove any coating that may be on the chassis. Drill a hole to run the ground bolt or threaded PEM through where you just spot-faced. Remember to ground your AC cord ground seperately, either from the IEC socket or if it's hard wired, right after the strain-relief gromet. Spot face that location too for best bonding contact.

[FUCHSyea]

Thanks, That Sounds Alot Less Complicated Than It's Been Explained To Me-- Thanks Again

Brandon