grrr - lead free solder sucks

[vibroverbus]

just doing some work on an amp, trying to re-solder 2 ground connections that had both been done over the last year, one with old-school lead solder and one with lead-free. having this back-to-back comparison really showed how much worse lead-free flows, and how much more temperature it needs.

if the initial higher melt temperature wasn't bad enough, I can tell that the lead-free that I've been using is just like jewelers silver solder in that each melt cycle causes the temperature to increase. this is handy in jewelry where you can keep tacking new things on without dislodging the last operation, but NOT handy in electronics as you have to get components hotter and hotter to get the solder to flow... not to mention it explains why my current iron tip is fried - about the time I started using some lead-free it started going downhill...

to get the Led (back) out, so to speak.

[Hacksaw]

I tried it once.. yuk.

[jimmy peters]

why are you trying lead free solder? like you say 95/5 or whatever you are using, requires a much higher melting point.
I would be VERY careful in your amp, that you dont fry some of the components, be sure and use a heat sink to pritect them.
good luck
jimmy peters

[boobtoob]

I HATE it!

Lead-free sux!

Lead is the deal!

(I just hope this thread doesn't come under the context of environmental politics)

[JES1680]

Thats the crap thats on my Newport's pots. Ugggh my 40watt pencil would'nt melt that sh*t the second pickup change.

[VacuumVoodoo]

It's just a matter of right tools.
Your old soldering iron won't do, get a proper temperature regulated iron that covers required temp range.
Use a proper tip size for the size of solder joint. Iron with exchangeable tips is the way to go.
Don't use lead free solder on whatever has previously been soldered with leaded solder. Higher temperature will cause old solder residue to become brittle. Overheated solder joints are as bad as cold ones.
Don't use jewelers silver solder, it's not intended for electronics.
Spend some time practicing.
End of sermon:)

I'm using lead free solder since last September, started by getting samples from different manufacturer to test - I do manual assembly of both PCBs and PTP. I settled on Alpha Fluitin 1532 from Alphametals (http://www.alphametals.com/main.asp) which behaves very nicely in manual soldering, leaves only a small amount of clear transparent flux residue that idoesn't need cleaning.
Only drawback is bad smelling flux fumes so you need good ventilation or a bench fume extractor. Other than that no problems.

While on subject of soldering, I like teflon/PTFE isolated wire but stripping the isolation is a real PITA^2 with a "hobby grade insert-twist-pull" stripper. Anyone know of a good quick teflon isolation stripper? Thanks in advance.

[vibroverbus]

Don't use jewelers silver solder, it's not intended for electronics.
End of sermon:)


if you paid attention, I'm NOT using jewelers solder, I just said the lead-free stuff ACTS like jewelers solder (because it is in fact high silver content).

for my purposes (mostly vintage amp maintenance/mods) per other comments I think it was a big mistake to try the stuff on the pitch I got that 'oh it works fine', so I'm back to lead with no turning back... (and hope I don't face trouble down the road from what I used already)

[VacuumVoodoo]

if you paid attention, I'm NOT using jewelers solder, I just said the lead-free stuff ACTS like jewelers solder (because it is in fact high silver content).

Ok, my mistake. Out of curiosity, do you happen know what the silver content was in the solder you used?
The one I'm using is 99% tin, 0.7% copper, 0.3% silver.

[vibroverbus]

Ok, my mistake. Out of curiosity, do you happen know what the silver content was in the solder you used?
The one I'm using is 99% tin, 0.7% copper, 0.3% silver.

Good question, it wasn't on the tube... had to look it up (the magic of google...)
96%Sn/3%Ag/.7%Cu

Looks like a lot more silver than yours! Obviously the copper .7% is some kind of magic number... Now that I'm looking into it I can see the standards seem to be 99% or 96%...

[Johnny Z]

I try to use silver solder when working on stuff, it cost a little more but also has less chance of a cold solder joint. I think the type I'm using is 5% silver and rated for medical equipment. It takes a some getting used to to use, and more heat, if you use it connect a thermal clip to the componet lead to draw off the extra heat.