Is changing the multi-cap in a SF Champ tricky?

[KissTone]

I've been gassing for a SF Champ recently and assume whatever I end up with may need a recap---but I've never changed a multi-style filter cap as found on BF and SF Champs and Princetons. Is it a difficult job (compared to a 'regular' recap)?

For reference, I did my own complete recap on my SFDR without a hitch.

[Blue Strat]

It can be tricky. You'll need a 100 watt iron with a big tip and POSSIBLY a large pair of pliers to rip it out if the iron doesn't do the job ;)

[KissTone]

Oooh . . . I don't have an iron that big. I think the ole father-in-law has one. I better check with him.

[John Phillips]

Someone on here recommended an easier way... cut the old cap away with a dremel (be careful to do this in well-ventilated conditions BTW, solder dust is toxic). You could probably mount the new one with sheet-metal screws too, or use a normal clamp - it doesn't actually have to be soldered to the chassis.

I know, I like to do things the 'right' way too, but it can sometimes be more trouble than it's worth when the 'alternative' method has no practical disadvantages.

[KissTone]

Hmmm . . . A Dremel, I've got . . .

[Trout]

Hmmm . . . A Dremel, I've got . . .

Be careful not to get grinding dust into things like the Pots!
Also, You do not want any shavings falling into the power trans. Cover the hole where the wires come out.

I once lost a 4/40 nut while wiring a chassis on a DIY project, about 3 days of use I found out where it went. I found it pretty interesting how much smoke they store in a power trans! More interesting was the fact that the slow blo fuse did not stop it before it was spitting a cloud out the back of the amp.

Trout

[AL30]

I dremeled out the multi-caps on a Traynor YSR-1 and a Traynor YGM3. My iron was getting the solder hot enough to liquidize but only in small amounts. Too much of a hassle. I still used the solder to attach the ground wires to the chassis but removing all of it was gonna be a chore. I didn't cut into the solder - just cut the caps off at the tabs.

AL

[evan_pollan]

I had to resort to a dremel on a recap for a BF champ, as well.

[RupertB]

I tried but couldn't get the solder to flow, even with a 140w Weller gun.

I hacked the tabs using the corner of a very sharp chisel. :o

[John Phillips]

I've used a chisel for stuff like this before too - good old-fashioned tool steel is harder than solder :).

Use something other than your dad's best cabinet chisels, if you can ;)... although if you're careful it won't be a problem to re-sharpen them :).

[AL30]

From what I have been told by "success stories". You need a solder iron with a wide tip to disperse the heat over a large area. Guns and smaller tipped irons don't work very well.

Chisels? Gives a new meaning to hack. :BEER (sorry couldn't resist - I'm a sucker for a bad joke). Doesn't that jar the $^&**! out of your amp?

AL

[John Phillips]

Chisels? Gives a new meaning to hack. :BEER (sorry couldn't resist - I'm a sucker for a bad joke). Doesn't that jar the $^&**! out of your amp?It's a good idea to remove the tubes while doing it, yes :).

Actually you need surprisingly little force to cut through solder with a sharp steel tool - I remove humbucker pickup covers exactly like that, using a Swiss Army knife... it cuts the solder very easily as long as you 'work' at it by rocking the blade.

[KissTone]

Here's my next question: does anyone still make a drop-in replacement for the multi-cap?

[Blue Strat]

Here's my next question: does anyone still make a drop-in replacement for the multi-cap?

Yes. Antique Electronics carries them.

[KissTone]

Thanks!

[mbratch]

Someone on here recommended an easier way... cut the old cap away with a dremel (be careful to do this in well-ventilated conditions BTW, solder dust is toxic). You could probably mount the new one with sheet-metal screws too, or use a normal clamp - it doesn't actually have to be soldered to the chassis.Before I had a soldering iron big enough for the job, I used an old wood chisel I didn't care much about (for wood). It cuts through the old solder joints nice and clean, and you keep the beveled edge of the chisel parallel to the surface of the chassis. Worked very well.

[KissTone]

Yes. Antique Electronics carries them.

I see the one at Antique Electronics, I think. I'm assuming it's the 40/20/20.

But I also see others at Angela and Ampwares that are 40/20/20/20.

Are these the same thing? I have other things I need to order, and want to get everything from one place if at all possible. Thanks.

[doctorx]

Ted Weber has can caps, he has several values and will make one for you of any values you want if needed. I used one in a DIY Champ build and it worked great.

[TheAmpNerd]

I see the one at Antique Electronics, I think. I'm assuming it's the 40/20/20.

But I also see others at Angela and Ampwares that are 40/20/20/20.

Are these the same thing? I have other things I need to order, and want to get everything from one place if at all possible. Thanks.

You don't want to buy the ones from Antique Electronic Supply.
These are NOT the same as the good old ones in spite of their claim.
In fact every can cap that I have from AES is physically leaky except
one, and that one's because it is open.

I'll post some pics this evening of the ones I have so you can see for yourself.

[KissTone]

I see Ted Weber has 'Cap Cans' on his site. The site says that they are 'out of stock,' but I emailed, and Ted said that the newest batch is out for powdercoating and will be ready in a few days. Anyone ever try his multicaps?