Jazzmaster Tremolo set up hell

[JimiB]

Anybody ever had a Jazzmaster tremolo that wont set up properly?
I had this thing apart and back together 15 times now. When I get it tuned up and the tention of the spring even close it feels like its binding. I can bend it down but it dosent return to where it should and I can't bend up at all. I believe it to be a reissue trem. Does this sound like a bad spring? It appears that the spring is pulling the string retaining part down and forward?

[Eagle1]

Make sure that the bridge dose not reach either end of its travel during use or it goes instantly and allot out of tune !
the best way to make sure of this is the bridge posts MUST be vertical at rest .
Then of course locking vintage style Gotoh's and well cut trem friendly nut (and don't run the strings under the string trees) And that is as good as it's ever going to be.

[John Phillips]

What string gauge (and tuning) do you have on it? Jazzmasters don't set up properly with anything lighter than 11s (10s if you're very lucky), and some vintage ones won't even really take less than 12s. You can shorten the spring, or replace it, if you really need to bring the rest position forward.

Do you have the Trem-Lok engaged? (sorry if that's insulting your intelligence! :)) If you don't know, try sliding the round button at the front edge of the trem towards the bridge. It's possible that the pivot plate is catching on it.

Jazzmaster trems are very simple, and there's really nothing to go wrong with them, unless it's been taken apart by someone else and put back together wrong...

[JimiB]

Make sure that the bridge dose not reach either end of its travel during use
It does not.
What string gauge (and tuning) do you have on it?
I am using a 10-52 set in standard tuning.
You can shorten the spring, or replace it, if you really need to bring the rest position forward.
Is it common to need to do this? Any idea where to get a replacement spring?
Do you have the Trem-Lok engaged?
No! LOL! I wish it was that simple. I've actually had it apart 15 time trying to figure what its binding on! :rotflmao
Its binding on itself! The spring tention pulls it down and forward and it binds on itself. Its hard to describe.
I will put a set of 12's on and see what happens.

[John Phillips]

I am using a 10-52 set in standard tuning.That should be OK I think...

Is it common to need to do this?It's common on vintage ones - and especially Jaguars, where the string tension is even lower due to the short scale - because they were designed in the days where 11s, 12s and 13s were the normal gauges. (It's actually really a fluke that a Strat tremolo is adaptable for light gauges, by removing some of the springs, rather than that the JM/Jag one is wrong.) But usually MIJ ones are OK with 10s, the springs are a bit weaker...

Any idea where to get a replacement spring?I make them from cut-down airgun springs :). I used to repair airguns too, so I have quite a few old springs of various diameters. (You'll normally need a grinder or a very hard file to cut them BTW.)

No! LOL! I wish it was that simple. :rotflmaoHa! Worth asking though, since for people that try to put 9s on them, it's impossible to get the button to engage at all, and then the pivot plate jams on it.

I've actually had it apart 15 time trying to figure what its binding on! Its binding on itself! The spring tention pulls it down and forward and it binds on itself. Its hard to describe.Is there any way you can post a couple of pics of the unit, out of the guitar - preferably one from underneath and one side-on, so you can see the arrangement of the various pieces?

[JimiB]

right away sir!

[JimiB]

All right the photos are here
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v710/JimiSmith/Jazzmaster/
the first 2 show the movement that is causing the binding.

[John Phillips]

Ouch... it looks simply like the pivot plate is incorrectly formed - there's not enough of a notch to keep the knife edge centered when it moves. That totally explains why it's binding and sticking. The knife edge also doesn't look sharp enough, but it's hard to tell without seeing it disassembled.

You might be able to improve it by flattening out the angle of the knife edge plate slightly, so the contact point is moved upwards a bit - you'll need to take it off the main plate and hammer it carefully on a very hard, flat surface - and maybe sharpening the edge slightly.

Other than that you probably need a new unit. That one does look like a Japanese reissue, yes.

[Eagle1]

Ouch... it looks simply like the pivot plate is incorrectly formed - there's not enough of a notch to keep the knife edge centered when it moves. That totally explains why it's binding and sticking. The knife edge also doesn't look sharp enough, but it's hard to tell without seeing it disassembled.

You might be able to improve it by flattening out the angle of the knife edge plate slightly, so the contact point is moved upwards a bit - you'll need to take it off the main plate and hammer it carefully on a very hard, flat surface - and maybe sharpening the edge slightly.

Other than that you probably need a new unit. That one does look like a Japanese reissue, yes.

+1 Bad luck new bridge.
You should try the moddifications surgested as you have nothing to loose.

[JimiB]

O.K. thanks!
So the knife edge is supposed to stay put in the sharpest bend of the pivot plate like it is here?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v710/JimiSmith/Jazzmaster/jazzmastertrem011.jpg
I can work on that. I have a dremmel :AOK