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View Full Version : '65 Bassman; Bright Switch and Death Cap Questions


Third Stone
09-21-2007, 03:04 PM
Just picked up this '65 bassman and it's screams. Somebody already got the AB165 bias circuit out and it's got the 3 prong plug. Wondering if anyone out there can tell me from the pic if the polarity switch/death cap is still intact or did they deal with that as well?
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-1/1133601/IMG_0349.jpg

Also I'd like to make the deep switch a bright switch just to give a hair more top end to the bass channel, which is surprisingly great sounding. Is it just a matter of removing the ground wire from the tab and adding the same value cap to the volume control....basically mimick the normal channel? Or does it go deeper than that...sorry for the pun. Not very technical, but I can solder and discharge the caps safely...so if give it to me simply. Thanks for any responses.
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-1/1133601/IMG_0340.JPG
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-1/1133601/IMG_0342.JPG

John Phillips
09-21-2007, 03:14 PM
The Death Cap is still there - it's the blue cap under the polarity switch. Simply remove it - unsolder it at both ends if you can, rather than snipping it, these caps are worth money! That's it - you don't need to remove the other connections to the switch since without the cap they don't do anything.

Rewiring the Deep switch is as simple as copying the wiring of the Bright switch - first, decide whether you prefer the tone with the Deep switch on or off, so you know whether to ground the wire that goes to it or remove it; remove the two connections to it, then add the cap and the wire to the volume pot.

Third Stone
09-21-2007, 04:45 PM
John, thanks for your help. I'll get that cap off the ground without snipping.

Didn't totally follow your last statement on the deep switch connection. I like the deep switch in the off position(or in the down position away from the word "deep".) When you say "remove the two connections to it" ....I only see that ground jumper and the yellow wire that takes it into the board...unless by "it" you are not refering to the deep switch but to the ground wire? Confused. So if you would mind to spell it out further. Thanks again. (Apologies for my electronics ignorance.)

John Phillips
09-21-2007, 05:44 PM
John, thanks for your help. I'll get that cap off the ground without snipping.

Didn't totally follow your last statement on the deep switch connection. I like the deep switch in the off position(or in the down position away from the word "deep".) When you say "remove the two connections to it" ....I only see that ground jumper and the yellow wire that takes it into the board...unless by "it" you are not refering to the deep switch but to the ground wire? Confused. So if you would mind to spell it out further. Thanks again. (Apologies for my electronics ignorance.)
If you like the Deep switch off, remove both the ground connection to the switch and the yellow wire that runs back to the board. Don't connect these two together, which you would do if you prefered the Deep switch on. Basically you are hard-wiring the switch the way round you like it. Now you should have a completely unconnected switch which you can use as a bright switch.

Third Stone
09-21-2007, 06:47 PM
ahhh, got it! Thanks! I suppose it's ok to just leave that yellow wire un-soldered from the switch but connected to board... with a little electrical tape around the loose end to keep it from making contact with anything. Just in case I choose to return it to stock. Right?

Third Stone
09-23-2007, 11:38 PM
bump

John Phillips
09-24-2007, 04:34 AM
ahhh, got it! Thanks! I suppose it's ok to just leave that yellow wire un-soldered from the switch but connected to board... with a little electrical tape around the loose end to keep it from making contact with anything. Just in case I choose to return it to stock. Right?Yes, the voltage on the wire is very low, it will be safe. I would use heatshrink tubing, but tape is reasonably OK (if not ideal) if you don't have any.

With the ground wire, just unsolder it from the switch and bend it back out of the way, don't try to unsolder it from the chassis.

Third Stone
09-24-2007, 11:56 PM
John, thanks for sharing your knowledge!

Third Stone
10-11-2007, 08:47 PM
John, just letting you know that this all worked out great. I added the bright switch in on the bass channel and it helped make that channel even better. I still run the bass control completely rolled down, it doesn't do much either way. I'm actually blown away at how good the bass channel sounds on this amp...my previous '66 bassman's "bass" channel sounded awful...different circuit I guess. Thanks again!!