Strat pickup/wiring questions...

[tookermel]

First off, I'm about to order some Callaham modded Fralin Special Winds for my Strat "Partscaster". I've heard guys say before that getting a NON-RW/RP will give you more "balls" in 2nd and 4th positions (although will now have hum). Is it really that much better? And, by balls, will the tone in those positions be punchier? Tighter? What exactly? Also, I'm thinking of not wiring ANY of the pickups to ANY tone knob. Won't this also help with tone, theoretically (besides not having the use anymore)? Or maybe just wiring the bridge pup to one Tone knob, and that's it! Any suggestions? Thanks...
-Tookermel

[Jim Collins]

I've used both varieties of pickups in a Strat -- some with an RWRP middle, and some without. Two of those instances featured calibrated sets of the same model from the same maker, one with an RWRP middle, one without. I do recall thinking that I could hear a very small difference, but the difference was so slight that I allowed I could be imagining it. Even with the difference I thought I perceived, I wouldn't have said that one has more balls than the other. To me, "more balls" means an obvious difference -- one that a non-player would probably hear. That wasn't the case.

Rather than not wire any pickup to any tone knob, I'd suggest you go with the blender wiring, which gives you one master tone control. The blender control gives you a variety of new tones, and the master tone control is more versatile than the standard Strat wiring. If you feel you'd still like to remove the tone control, you could replace the tone pot with a no-load pot which would disengage the tone control when it is fully clockwise.

[tookermel]

How much more expensive, if any, would this route be to go? Also, the wiring wouldn't be really any more complex, right? I'm probably gonna wire myself, just to save where I can. I know, I know...."But you're getting Fralins!"....well, just can't skimp on tone, know what I mean? Anyway, ok, so a master tone pot and master volume pot only. Could still use any standard 5-way Strat switch, right? It may not sound like I know what I'm talkin' about, and it's probably 'cause I don't, but, I'm hoping I can get a schematic to follow when I'm doing this.....think Bill from Callaham would send me one? Thanks...


-Tookermel

[Structo]

From what I know the only advantage of having a middle pickup RWRP is that in positions 2 and 4 they are noiseless.

[Jim Collins]

Here is the blender wiring -- http://www.acmeguitarworks.com/pdf/WiringDiagram_Strat_Blender.pdf

The only new component in this wiring is the blender pot, which replaces the outside tone control. This pot is very similar to a no-load pot, except the blender pot does not have a detente in the full-on position. (The no-load pot that is frequently used as a tone control has a detente in the full on position -- it "clicks" in.)

The switch, volume and tone pots are the same ones in your guitar. The tone cap can be the same one in your guitar, but you might like something different. (Personally, I prefer a .047uF tone cap.)

Callaham sells a blender pot. This can be used either as a blender pot or as a no-load tone pot (without the detente). You'll notice that Callaham's blender pot has one of the lugs clipped. You wouldn't use this lug, anyway, whether it is used as a blender or a tone pot. (Clipping that lug prevents you from accidentally using the pot as a volume control.)

[tookermel]

Cool - thanks, Jim...

-Tookermel

[gitarboy]

Jim's on the money.. this has been my experience as well...

Steve :BEER
I've used both varieties of pickups in a Strat -- some with an RWRP middle, and some without. Two of those instances featured calibrated sets of the same model from the same maker, one with an RWRP middle, one without. I do recall thinking that I could hear a very small difference, but the difference was so slight that I allowed I could be imagining it. Even with the difference I thought I perceived, I wouldn't have said that one has more balls than the other. To me, "more balls" means an obvious difference -- one that a non-player would probably hear. That wasn't the case.

Rather than not wire any pickup to any tone knob, I'd suggest you go with the blender wiring, which gives you one master tone control. The blender control gives you a variety of new tones, and the master tone control is more versatile than the standard Strat wiring. If you feel you'd still like to remove the tone control, you could replace the tone pot with a no-load pot which would disengage the tone control when it is fully clockwise.