What is the best filter cap for a recap on a Hiwatt DR103 ?

[Dr. Tweedbucket]

Looks like no one makes a 220uF anymore and I can't find a 2x50uF either. JJ has a 200uF and a 2x32 .... don't really want to screw with the values.

Any other popular brands? Too bad LCR is out of the business.

[Dave C]

JJ has both , 220 and 50x50...try here:
http://www.tubesandmore.com/

[Dr. Tweedbucket]

JJ has both , 220 and 50x50...try here:
http://www.tubesandmore.com/


Sure enough! Thanks.

[gldtp99]

those JJ 220uF/385V cans won't fit your orig 1-3/8" clamps--- i've used them on a Sound City amp re-cap job and just wound black tape around the slimmer 220uF can until it fit the clamp--- i wouldn't do this on a vintage Hiwatt that's worth $$$$$--- i wouldn't do this again on another Sound City, for that matter.
What many do is to get the 100uF/100uF/500V can (either JJ or F&T) and connect the two 100uF sections together---- this makes a single 200uF section.
Another option is the JJ 250uF/500V can:http://thetubestore.com/ca-jj-250uf-500v.html

For the several more Hiwatt-clones i'll be putting together soon, i'll be ordering these Cornell Dubiller 220uF/450V cans : http://www.mouser.com/search/refine.aspx?Ntt=5985-450v220A

the current "brain trust" seems to value the F&T brand of cap cans above all else----i don't really know why, or who made this decision--- i've used them as well as many other brands and i've never noticed any performance difference whatsoever between the different brands.
I have noticed that some brands cost quite a bit more than others.
The value tolerance range of electrolytic capacitors is quite wide---- so don't sweat the exact value of the 220uF-ish replacements (200uF as in the 100uF/100uF cans with jumpered sections is ok---- 250uF JJ caps are also ok--- the 220uF Cornell Dubiller cans i'm getting are also ok)---- just make sure that the voltage rating of the can you get is at or above the 300V rated orig 220uF cans (the 450V and 500V cans i've linked to are superior to the orig equip cans in there now). You need three 220uF cans.
You also need one 50/50uF at 500V can (JJ or F&T) and one 32/32 or 16/16 450-500V can. Don't go hyper-technical and worry about the 16uF vs 32uF value--- this can is at the end of the power rail and either value will work amazingly well---- i've built two DR504 clones, among other Hiwatt-type clones--- one has a 32/32 and the other has a 16/16 and they are both amazing sounding amps---- i don't believe the 32 vs 16uF value makes any difference at all. The orig is a 32/16uF can--- they are still made by somebody (TAD, i think) but may be difficult to source.
Another very important thing---- Get a New Bias Cap !!!--- if this electrolytic cap fails, and it's just as old as the filter caps, then you lose bias on the output tubes---- this will result in immediate runaway redplating that will destroy your output tubes and maybe the output transformer----- the orig is a 100uF/63V----- i've used Sprauge Atom 100uF/100V caps with good results--- i've also used Xicon 100uF/63V caps here.
So it's:
220uF at 450-500V cans------ 3 each
50/50uF at 500V can ---------1 each
16/16 or 32/32 at 450-500V can-- 1 each
100uF/100V bias cap (axial)---1 each

Good Luck---- are you doing the work? Use new 220k balancing/draining resistors where the original ones are on your amp..................gldtp99

[callaway_1]

I echo gldtp99. Although I am a little more particular about replacing each cap with as close to the original as possible.

I have used JJ 50+50', F&T 200 or 220uf's, ARS 16+16, 16+32, and Sprague Atom 100uf axials and have great results with all of them.

I like the F&T's because you can get the exact replacement and that is important to me.