Geeky overthinking solder question..Core Size

[twinrider1]

Ready to buy soldering gear and had a question about solder.

Kester #44 63/37, .031, comes in both a #66 and a #50 core size. Is one prefered over the other and why?

Compared to the #66, I'm figuring the #50 has more rosin in it relative to the amount of Sn/Pb. It's 3/4 the price. When would you need more rosin?

Yea, I know, just buy the 60/40 and get over it. But inquiring minds want to know! :-)

Thanks!

[TheAmpNerd]

Ready to buy soldering gear and had a question about solder.

Kester #44 63/37, .031, comes in both a #66 and a #50 core size. Is one prefered over the other and why?

Compared to the #66, I'm figuring the #50 has more rosin in it relative to the amount of Sn/Pb. It's 3/4 the price. When would you need more rosin?

Yea, I know, just buy the 60/40 and get over it. But inquiring minds want to know! :-)

Thanks!

You asked the magic question.

Here is the magic answer...


....buy all three and find what works
best and in what situation.

Probably not much difference...
bigger core bigger work.

63/37 is peferred, because it only goes through
one state from liquid to solid.

60/40 goes from liquid to emulsion to solid, that
additional step can lead to problems.

Just make sure you heat up beyond melting!
typically over 100 degrees more to really get
the metals to bond properly and lock it in tight.

A dumbass know it all bass player kept thinking
all you need to do was melt the solder and it stuck
everything together properly.

He couldn't figure out why all the vintage Fender
basses he worked on kept cutting out and quitting on him.

[donnyjaguar]

Get one of these (http://www.micro-tools.com/Merchant2/images/3314.jpg). And some of these (http://www.mgchemicals.com/images/product/855-5closeup.gif). And of course some of this (http://www.mgchemicals.com/images/product/824-1L.GIF).

[Wakarusa]

Get one of these (http://www.micro-tools.com/Merchant2/images/3314.jpg). And some of these (http://www.mgchemicals.com/images/product/855-5closeup.gif). And of course some of this (http://www.mgchemicals.com/images/product/824-1L.GIF).

Just the stuff for new construction, but if you're working on older gear I'd suggest one of the nice Kester "no-clean" flux pens. Use it like a magic marker, works better than plain alcohol. Also, either instead of or in addition to the brush pictured, a stainless steel brush of similar size/construction is a must have for working on older gear -- I've never found anything better for quickly knocking through oxidation on leads/terminals.