Reverb not working!

[vonmorton]

The reverb on my Orange Rockerverb100 just stopped working. I turn the knob and it kind of gives it presence or brightens the tone but no reverb. I just got it retubed two weeks ago (preamp and power tubes). It sounded awesome better than before. What is going on PLEASE help me. Thanks

[Dave Orban]

Open up the reverb pan and check the tiny wires that go from where the cables connect to the reverb pan. They are prone to breakage, and repairing them is a relatively easy soldering job.

[mark norwine]

and repairing them is a relatively easy soldering job.

**IF** they're broken at the connector. If they're broken at the transducer, the pan is a goner...

[slider313]

Find out which tube is your reverb driver. New tubes go bad and if it was replaced recently it may be under warranty.

[Dave Orban]

**IF** they're broken at the connector. If they're broken at the transducer, the pan is a goner...
Why you gotta be all up in my grille, b*tch...?!?



















:roll

[vonmorton]

Thanks I'll check both the reverb pan and the tube. I appreciate the help!

[mark norwine]

Why you gotta be all up in my grille, b*tch...?!?

lemme guess...you have a teenage daughter....

[Dave Orban]

Lol!

[majorledhead]

Try a new tube before you rip into the pan and make that amp your bitch.

[John Phillips]

**IF** they're broken at the connector. If they're broken at the transducer, the pan is a goner...
Not quite. It's a b****** to fix, but it can be done and if you get good at it, doesn't take too long and is a lot quicker and cheaper than replacing the tank if you don't happen to have a spare one to hand.

What happens is this...

On the original design, the wires from the RCA jacks were actually part of the transducer coil and went directly into the winding. If one of these breaks at the coil end, you're done for - but they rarely do, they almost always break at the RCA terminal or the stress-relief clip next to it. So far so good.

But on recent tanks, the wires don't go into the coil - instead, they go into a push-connector which is fitted onto two metal pins that come out of the transducer and to which the coil wires are soldered. The problem is that the weight of the push-connector seems to be enough to vibrate the pins and break the fine coil wires where they're soldered on, right at the edge of the bobbin.

This can be fixed, if you very carefully scrape the insulating varnish off the coil wire - it's thinner than a human hair, so a steady hand and good lighting is essential - solder a short thin wire (I use strands from cable shielding, it's slightly thicker than the original wire) to it, and then to the metal pin. You can find which connection is broken if you use a meter on the scraped wire first.

Yes, this is micro-wiring surgery, but with a little practice it's far from impossible. I've fixed around a dozen broken tanks like this so far - it takes me about five minutes - and only failed once, when I accidentally pulled the fine wire while attaching the new one to the pin, and snapped it at the coil... Game Over.

This is the most common mode of failure for the new-design tanks, in my experience, and it's (IMO) worth trying to fix before throwing the tank away.

Also, removing the push-connector and soldering the wires straight to the pins should avoid the vibration which seems to be the cause of the trouble in the first place, so I do that as well.

[vonmorton]

I'll give it a try thanks again!