Baffle Board: Floating vs Fixed

[Nolatone Ampworks]

Hey folks,

I must say I'm not 100% clear on what distinguishes a floating baffle board from a fixed.

What is the difference?

The tweed Fender boards are said to be floating, aren't they? But, they bolt to the front trim of the amp, which seems fixed to me.

Is it simply matter of how it's attached? If it's permanently attached, it's fixed, if you can unbolt and remove it's floating?

Also, if you can state your preference and why, that'd be interesting.

Thanks,

Paul

[Old Tele man]

...fixed refers to being permanently glued into the cabinet, meaning you have to literally "break" things to remove it.

...floating (as applied to earlier Fender combos) refers to being attached with screws, meaning that you can 'disassemble/remove' the speaker baffle without having to break things.

...there is ALSO the rather rare Fender "tone-ring" assembly which some people call a "floating mounting"...

[wingwalker]

Like Old Tele Man said floating is when the baffle is screwed in and can be taken out while fixed is a glued in baffle.

On the issue of what most guys prefer I think you'll get a lot of mixed answers...remember, a lot of guys think about when Fender went from floating to fixed in the very early 70's, however the other thing to keep in mind is that the cabs also started being made from junk wood around the same time. I have heard a lot of people over the years complain about the tone of fixed baffle Fender cabs not once mentioning that they were junk woods and made as quickly and cheeply as possible (no finger joints, corners stapled together, etc...)

If made from good woods fixed baffle cabs can sound great as can floating baffle cabs. I personally prefer floating baffles...they seem to resonate more to me however I have never reall

[Nolatone Ampworks]

With floating baffle boards, is there any rule that says it has to extend the to tops and sides of the inside of the front panel?

I have something in mind, but don't want to go that far into it if it's going to be no good. My idea involves bottom, and both sides extending to the shell of the cabinet, but the top doesn't go all the way up.

Any reason that would be a problem?

[PRNDL]

With floating baffle boards, is there any rule that says it has to extend the to tops and sides of the inside of the front panel?

I have something in mind, but don't want to go that far into it if it's going to be no good. My idea involves bottom, and both sides extending to the shell of the cabinet, but the top doesn't go all the way up.

Any reason that would be a problem?

A large gap at the top might look weird.

One thing I've noticed is my mentor (Larry Rodgers, who makes a ton of replacement baffle boards) cuts three edges off the grill cloth, and leaves one folded over. I asked and his explanation did involve allowing the board to float, yet also connecting it securely to the cabinet so it vibrated as well.

You can see it clearly on this web page
http://www.naturdoctor.com/Chapters/Rodgers/BaffleBoards.html

I believe the the baffle board floats because the top is not attached to the cabinet.

[tlpruitt]

I believe "floating" means that the baffle is attached to the cabinet (usually with screws) ONLY on two opposite sides. The other 2 sides of the baffle are not attached to the cabinet, allowing the baffle to vibrate and move (float) with the vibrations of the speaker.

In a most tweed Fenders the baffle is attached to the cabinet at the top and the bottom of the baffle and the sides of the baffle are "floating". In most BF Fenders the baffle is only attached to the cabinet at the sides so the top and bottom of the baffle are "floating".

-Tim

[apalazzolo]

I believe "floating" means that the baffle is attached to the cabinet (usually with screws) ONLY on two opposite sides. The other 2 sides of the baffle are not attached to the cabinet, allowing the baffle to vibrate and move (float) with the vibrations of the speaker.

In a most tweed Fenders the baffle is attached to the cabinet at the top and the bottom of the baffle and the sides of the baffle are "floating". In most BF Fenders the baffle is only attached to the cabinet at the sides so the top and bottom of the baffle are "floating".

-Tim

does it make a difference which way the grain of the wood runs?

[Groovey Records]

Your idea of the baffle not reaching the top with a gap reminds me of a inverse DETUNED cab as made by VINTONE and a few other DIY'ers. I am interested in hearing a 15' DETUNED ported cab a 2X15 AND A MOTHER OF GOD HARDWOOD 4X15 DETUNED CAB.

Take a look http://www.vintone.com/detuned.html

EnJoY ThE MuSiC
GrooVey Records

[PRNDL]

does it make a difference which way the grain of the wood runs?

Actually, yes, although maybe not for tone.
In a rectangle cab, if the grain runs up, it will bend (warp) more easily that if the grain is long way.

Tim -- yes. Often I find that my answers are only partially true, since I'm still learning.

[Nolatone Ampworks]

A large gap at the top might look weird.

One thing I've noticed is my mentor (Larry Rodgers, who makes a ton of replacement baffle boards) cuts three edges off the grill cloth, and leaves one folded over. I asked and his explanation did involve allowing the board to float, yet also connecting it securely to the cabinet so it vibrated as well.

You can see it clearly on this web page
http://www.naturdoctor.com/Chapters/Rodgers/BaffleBoards.html

I believe the the baffle board floats because the top is not attached to the cabinet.

I think you are picturing a blackface style cabinet.

Picture a tweed cabinet that has, say, a TV front panel. The baffle board will sit behind it that front panel. If the top didn't go all the way up, it would not be visible from the front.

What I'm thinking about is a baffle board that can be removed without removing the speaker(s) or chassis. The shorter top of the BB would be to allow more "wiggle room" to get the BB out of the cabinet. I don't know if this will even come close to working yet, just an idea.