Nitro and acrylic compatibility

[michael30]

Here's a question for the paint experts: How does nitro react with acrylic laquer? Can I spray a nitro basecoat, a few layers of acrylic laquer color and top it off with a nitro clear laquer?

I'm in Finland and can't get hold of other colors than black and white in nitro (and I have to order those from Sweden). There's a pretty good selection of acrylic laquers available in various colors

The airlines won't ship inflammable materials so Reranch products are out of the question.

[Mike9]

They both use the same solvent and pigments - the binder is different. Acrylic was developed to "fix" the shortcomings in Nitro.

[Terry McInturff]

You will want to go 100% nitro. There are a number of stain concentrates that you can add to clear nitro in order to make gorgeous tinted clears.

[OlAndrew]

I'd think you'd want to use all nitro or all acrylic. I've had good results with either. I'm most used to acrylic, 'cause I used to paint custom motorcycles.

Most of the quality of the finished job depends on your preparation. That has to be really good, or you'll be putting a LOT of work in to making a mess. Thirty coats of gold metallic, and 10 0f colored clear, and the sanding marks still show through is REALLY the blues.

After that, its how you mix your paints, how heavy do you spray, how long between coats, and so on. Also, use the very best quality thinners for mixing, only use hardware store cheapie stuff for cleaning your guns. Check out places that supply auto body and repair shops for supplies and tech help.

I have done some really nice jobs with spray cans, but its a whole LOT harder than doing it with real, compressed air, spray guns and airbrushes.

Remember, lots of THIN coats, with plenty of drying time in between. Try to hurry and lay it on thick, or too many coats too soon, and it'll never harden. Paint hardens by a catalytic reaction with the air, so if you cover a coat over, it can't react any more, and never will.

I apologize if you already know most or all of the above, it's kinda a standard rap I lay out when faced with a paint question. There's whoe large books on the subject, and even those are no replacement for experience...just tryin to help

[paintguy]

Using the two types is more likely to have problems than not. Not that it hasn't been done.

Like the others said, try to pick one system and use it all the way through.

[michael30]

Thanks for the replies! I should have been more specific in my original question. I'm talking about spray cans. I refinish 2-3 guitars/year, mostly partscasters and "hopeless" cases like the one below. I've been thinking about getting a compressor and spray gun sometime in the future, but so far I'll have to do with spray cans. I used all acrylic on my previous efforts, but since I recently found a source for nitro I'd like to use that as much as possible. The problem is that the only colors available are black, white and clear. This is still a learning process. I like to think that I've reached the "acceptable" level so far.

Before:

http://www.guitarhucksters.com/files/hucksters.kotisivukone.com/jupiter.jpg

After:

http://www.guitarhucksters.com/files/hucksters.kotisivukone.com/h49_silvertone_jupiter_01.jpg

[outtahear]

All things equal, (and they rarely are....)
You can spray Nitro over well cured acrylic successfully.
(Like Fender did w/Metallics in the old days...)
Acrylic over nitro will cause the nitro underneath to soften and wrinkle.
Do a search for ReRanch-they offer Nitro in classic Gibson/Fender custom colors, using Mc Fadden nitrocellulose lacquers.

[michael30]

Do a search for ReRanch-they offer Nitro in classic Gibson/Fender custom colors, using Mc Fadden nitrocellulose lacquers.

I know. The airlines won't ship inflammable products overseas.