Of Eyelet Boards and Solder Blobs

[mbratch]

I have a couple of cases where the large solder blob has made its way below the eyelet hole on couple of connections. It's still got contact with the eyelet, but I'd like to get it out of there. Any suggestions? I've thought perhaps of trying to stick some solder braid in to get it... And then when that's done, how do you get a nice solder blob on top, like the good old days? :)

[willhutch]

sounds like a job for a solder sucker from radio shack. Melt the solder blob with your iron and suck it out. Then redo the solder joint.

[alltone]

sounds like a job for a solder sucker from radio shack. Melt the solder blob with your iron and suck it out. Then redo the solder joint.
:AOKThat's the ticket!!http://www.allelectronics.com/images/gold/full/50B-410.jpg

[Trout]

I have a couple of cases where the large solder blob has made its way below the eyelet hole on couple of connections. It's still got contact with the eyelet, but I'd like to get it out of there. Any suggestions? I've thought perhaps of trying to stick some solder braid in to get it... And then when that's done, how do you get a nice solder blob on top, like the good old days? :)


Solder Suckers work, Solder wick works also.

But it got there because of gravity pulling the excess solder in.

Turn it upside down and heat it with a clean tip, It will pull the blob back to the top were it is easier to remove if needed.

[Wakarusa]

The "good old days" boards look the way they do because manufacturers like Fender soldered them from the back.

[mbratch]

The "good old days" boards look the way they do because manufacturers like Fender soldered them from the back.That makes sense, hadn't thought about that. Thanks.

I'm wondering now whether I should make some kind of fixture to hold the vintage amp circuits upside-down to work on them that way. ;)

[Structo]

The "good old days" boards look the way they do because manufacturers like Fender soldered them from the back.
Never heard that one before.
Have anything to back that up or is it just a supposition based on the way they look?
Not trying to pull your chain, just curious.

[Wakarusa]

I seem to recall reading it somewhere (which made me go look again at some boards), but a visual inspection of old Fender fishpaper and eyelet boards proves it out. Once you get the whole board out you can see where the flux fully wetted the underside of the eyelet so its usually covered around its full circumference down to the fishpaper with solder. On the top of the board it's easy to see where the solder bulges up and that, for most eyelets, the solder isn't on a fair amount of the eyelet down near the fishpaper.

Finally, it's just easier to build 'em that way. Lace in all of your components leaving long leads for heat dissipation, drop in all of those fabulous (:mad:) under-board leads and then just solder away without having to worry about hitting a cap with a hot iron. Snip off the extra leads and screw it into the chassis. Fast and simple.

I've got a few pulled boards from BF Fenders laying around that I could take pictures of if you'd like to see for yourself.

[Wakarusa]

I'm wondering now whether I should make some kind of fixture to hold the vintage amp circuits upside-down to work on them that way. ;)

Bleh. To keep the rework looking "original" you'd have to pull all the front panel pots and desolder a couple of power supply leads. Then jack the board up and work from underneath. I'd argue it isn;t worth it and potentially deceptive because it might entice an owner to offer the amp later as "all original" when it isn't. That said, a top-soldered board is a good indicator that the amp's been worked on. Another is looking for small dents in the solder - pin pricks - from where a tech has jabbed things with multimeter probes ;)

[Structo]

Thanks for that.
Yeah the flux pattern would be a dead give away.
I've only built one amp and soldered from the top.
Makes sense to do it the way you described.