need the straight dope on Weber kit pots and tube sockets

[brad347]

So I'm building a 5E7. I started with a Weber kit and did several parts substitutions. I'm using Jupiter, Mojo, and Sprague caps and carbon comp resistors. I have Mercury transformers and 10A125 speakers instead of the signature speakers. I have a Fender style pilot lamp and old-stock tubes. I am using switchcraft jacks and the kits now come with carling switches.

All my stuff should start arriving in a week or two.

In the meantime, I'm starting to think hard about the parts I didn't upgrade, chiefly the tube sockets and pots.

I know Weber kits are low-cost kits and a great value, but I've heard some criticisms of their components. I've heard the cabinets are very nice and the chassis are "ok," occasionally with some minor cosmetic flaws. The transformers, speakers, jacks, and passive components are taken care of, as I said above.

In looking around on the net, I've found some criticisms of the usual suspects, but I've also seen reference to the pots and tube sockets being 'dubious.'

I want this amp to turn out really nice. I'm not necessarily so concerned with having "name brand" pots and tube sockets, but I do want decent parts that will be serviceable and functional (and reasonably durable).

What is your opinion of the ones that come with the Weber kits? Would you just go ahead and buy nicer parts now and save yourself the headache later? Or do you believe the stock pots and sockets are fine?

Thanks for any input!!

[phsyconoodler]

They are indeed of a rather cheaper quality.The pots should be upgraded to CTS or CGE metal shafts.Get those from Mojotone or Antique electronics.
The tube sockets are not all that bad,but there are better ones out there.But if you upgrade the sockets make sure the hole diameters are the same.Some sockets won't fit into weber chassis holes.

[brad347]

Hmm.... that's good to know.

So you think it would be a decent course of action to upgrade the pots but to keep the tube sockets?

I suppose you probably don't recommend the Alpha pots either?

[GearHeadFred]

I built my Weber Super Reverb clone with 98% of the stock Weber parts. To me, the only items that were unacceptably cheap were the tube retainer clips and the AC power sockets. I used all the caps, resistors, switches, pots, and even the jacks. I understand (from the website) they have recently upgraded the switches and jacks..

I guess it's all a personal preference, but I can say that I've been gigging with my amp for about a year and have had no problems whatsoever with it. I'll also add that the electrolytic caps Weber includes are rates to 105 degrees C, which is very nice.

I did actually replace the Weber cabinet.. Perhaps I got a bad one but the tolex delaminated on mine pretty badly, and the cover job was a hack. I should have returned it for repair but I wanted a smaller cab anyway.

[tlpruitt]

I don't think Alpha pots are that bad.

BTW, for a 5E7 you may want to consider using 1M linear pots for the volume controls instead of the 1M audio pots the schematic calls for. Its been my experience that the linear taper works better in the volume controls of the large tweed amps.

[brad347]

I don't think Alpha pots are that bad.

BTW, for a 5E7 you may want to consider using 1M linear pots for the volume controls instead of the 1M audio pots the schematic calls for. Its been my experience that the linear taper works better in the volume controls of the large tweed amps.

"works better" in what way?

[tlpruitt]

"Works better" in that as you turn the volume knob up the volume of the amp ramps up at an appropriate rate.

I have found if you use a 1M audio taper pot for the volume control with the large tweed amps like the 5E7, 5E5a, 5E6a, and 5F6a the volume ramps up too slowly at first as you turn the volume knob and then in the last few degrees of rotation the volume comes up too fast. If your "sweet spot" is in the last few degrees of rotation it makes it hard to set it because the slightest movement of the knob causes a huge jump in volume.

All audio taper pots are not the same and apparently the audio taper pots that were made back in the 50s had a taper that is closer to a linear taper than to a "modern" audio taper. Others have found similar results.

Both pots will work, 1M audio or 1M linear, its just a matter of preference. Try both and see which one you like. I did and found I usually prefer 1M linear as a volume control in the tweeds I have built.

Different pot makers have different audio tapers too. An Alpha audio taper will be different than a CTS audio taper.

BTW, Fender does not use an audio taper pot in the '59 Bassman reissue or the current '57 Twin either. The '59 Bassman has a 1M linear taper for volume and the '57 Twin has a 1M volume pot with a "special" taper that I suspect is close to a linear taper.

-Tim

[hasserl]

But doesn't that make it harder to find the sweet spot on the lower end? I think a lot of people set their volume around 3 - 5 on these amps. It seems like the linear pot would make it harder to find the sweet spot there.

Might be worth trying though, just to see how it works. Depending on the guitar I tend to set the Vol down around 4-5 or up around 8 on my 5E5A. The lower setting with humbuckers and P90]s, the higher settings with lower output single coils.

BTW, the 5E5A sure is a sweet match up with a Tele!

Re the original question, I've found the tube sockets with the Weber kits are OK. They're ceramic, but maybe the metal used for the terminals isn't the best. But I haven't had any problems, and my main amp now is from a kit, and it gets regular use out at gigs and jams, several times a month. Still, I don't know if they'll give me problems with loose fit on the tube pins several years and tube changes from now. The retainer clips suck, they break very easily. I've had trouble with the switches, so I just automatically replace those, don't even use the kit parts, though they have recently upgraded those parts. I also upgrade the jacks and pilot light assy. The pots have also worked fine for me, not a single problem with probably over a hundred pots from Weber.

[tlpruitt]

But doesn't that make it harder to find the sweet spot on the lower end? I think a lot of people set their volume around 3 - 5 on these amps. It seems like the linear pot would make it harder to find the sweet spot there.

Might be worth trying though, just to see how it works. Depending on the guitar I tend to set the Vol down around 4-5 or up around 8 on my 5E5A. The lower setting with humbuckers and P90]s, the higher settings with lower output single coils.

BTW, the 5E5A sure is a sweet match up with a Tele!

You would think a linear taper would make it tough to find the sweet spot on the lower end of the pot's rotation but I have not found that to be the case. I think it has to do with where the volume control is in the tweed circuit (after the first gain stage) and whether you are using a 12AY7 in the first preamp socket or something with more gain.

Its just something to consider and experiment with if you are building or modding a tweed amp.

Currently my 5E5a has a 12AY7 in V1 and 1M linear volume pots and I like the change in volume thoughout the entire pot's range.

-Tim

[skipm45]

I've built several Weber kits with no problems. yes, I've upgraded switches and coupling caps, but I've also built stock. In my view they're a good value.


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