Convert a trem Strat to a hardtail...advisable?

[Stratman76]

I've got an older Mexi-Strat that I bought cheap and want to mod.

I don't use tremolo and wondered what you would recommend? My main goal is to enhance sustain. Am I better off with a better trem bridge scenario? Or something like this...

http://tailfeather.balloonstoheaven.com/TailFeather.html

Looking for recommendations... I've read here that some believe the trem and associated springs contribute to the overall tone. Significantly?


I'd also like to know if anyone here has just removed the trembridge, claw and springs and replaced it all with wood.

[shawntp]

I say just lock it down with 5 tight springs like the Eric Johnson Strat. Ive never played with a tremolo on my strat either but recently got a EJ Signature strat that has the stiffest tremolo ive seen on a strat to the point where it is locked down to be unmovable.

I like it and would think it might be something to try first.

[Glowing Tubes]

To me the trem is an intricate part of a strat, I'd say if you dont use it or like it do as Shawntp recommended. Simple fix.

[Stratman76]

Perhaps a better question might be a good replacement tremolo for a Mexi-Strat. I wasn't keen on the saddles in the Callaham unit. A titanium block would be worth more than this guitar!

Or go in the opposite direction. Check this out-

http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/tht1.htm

[haymaker]

I say just lock it down with 5 tight springs like the Eric Johnson Strat. Ive never played with a tremolo on my strat either but recently got a EJ Signature strat that has the stiffest tremolo ive seen on a strat to the point where it is locked down to be unmovable.

I like it and would think it might be something to try first.

+1 on this method. I tightened the snot out of mine with 5 springs and it plays and feels just like a HT. Sustain for days . . . "put a week on it"

And I for one truly believe that the whole bridge system (springs included) make up a huge part of the 'strat sound'

[Franktone]

Or you could slide a quarter inch piece of wood, or so, between the steel tail block and the body, into the back of the guitar, and all is realized. It is easily removed by holding down on the wamy bar and sliding out the block.

[walterw]

Or you could slide a quarter inch piece of wood, or so, between the steel tail block and the body, into the back of the guitar, and all is realized. It is easily removed by holding down on the wamy bar and sliding out the block.
there's no reason to do that! just tighten the springs, adding one or two if necessary, and it's done. be sure that the pivot screws are not so tight that they prevent the back edge from laying flat on the guitar, but not so loose that they let the front edge lift off the body.

[DrumBob]

Or you could slide a quarter inch piece of wood, or so, between the steel tail block and the body, into the back of the guitar, and all is realized. It is easily removed by holding down on the wamy bar and sliding out the block.

I glued mine in, Might as well make it permanent.

[dk123123dk]

http://store.guitarfetish.com/minmeimstupt.html
http://store.guitarfetish.com/wivitrpoarst.html

I find you get a bit more sustain with vintage style tuning machines vs locking tuners. I like the convienece of locking tuners though. Might want to look into a set of decent vintage style tuners.
http://store.guitarfetish.com/wiklstnitusi.html
http://www.warmoth.com/hardware/tuners/tuners.cfm?fuseaction=guitar_tuners

If you want more sustain out of a strat, get a tele...

dk

[Franktone]

Yeah, the thin block of wood jammed in there beside the steel block is better equiped to approach the sound of strings anchored through wood as on the non-tremelo equipped Strats. The springs, no matter how taught, will always soak up a minute amount of your sound. Try the thin block of hard wood in there, you might like it.

[Franktone]

Another problem to look at is the tail block material itself. I at one time had one of those Tokia Strats as a back-up, and when trying to find out it had so much reverb, discovered that the tail block was made of aluminum. I quickly got rid of the guitar. The mazac (white metal) tail blocks are not optimum either. The best tail blocks are made of steel, like the ones from the sixties and fifties. I have a newer american standard strat and noticed that the tail block has the string holes counter sunk deeply into the tail block, a bad move for sustain by fender, as far as I can see. It doesn't sound noticeably too bad, but is not equal to the older tail blocks, where you could see the ball of the string just below the surface of the tail block, looking at the back of the body. These are just my observations. I suppose that one day I will get rid of this lipstick red standard Strat too, when my wife lets me move up to something better.

[dharmafool]

Nowhere on the Tailfeather site could I find what exactly the product is made from. Makes me wonder.

[Stratman76]

Yeah, the thin block of wood jammed in there beside the steel block is better equiped to approach the sound of strings anchored through wood as on the non-tremelo equipped Strats. The springs, no matter how taught, will always soak up a minute amount of your sound. Try the thin block of hard wood in there, you might like it.

I've read some posts from those who feel the springs contribute to tone. I dunno... I had a hardtail and preferred it to trem Strats.