Finishing Steps: Truoil, Poly and Inlays

[RvChevron]

What would be the proper steps/sequence if I want a new neck (bolt on type, flame maple board on maple neck) done with the following:

- Headstock face (with wood bindings), to be painted to match the body colour in poly with gloss or satin clear top coat.

- There will be a custom inlay or two on the headstock face as decals

- The neck back and borad to be finished in Tru-oil, built up to a nice hard glossy (but not poly or lacquer glossy) shine.

Which of the above should be done first, which follows and which should be done last????

This whole thing is likely to involve a few different guys doing it.

Thanks!:BEER

[Quarter]

I guess there are a couple ways to go about it, but I'd probably do it similar to how they do it on a MusicMan.
Using the back line of the nut as the transition point, tape / mask off the neck / fretboard and do the inlay, finish on the headstock.
Once done, re-tape / mask the transition line and then do the neck.

This pic from Elderly may help visualize it.

.
http://www.elderly.com/new_instruments/items/images/30N/AXSSRP_headstock-back.jpg

[guitargod0dmw]

- The neck back and borad to be finished in Tru-oil, built up to a nice hard glossy (but not poly or lacquer glossy) shine.


Tru-oil isn't a particularly glossy finish. It's more an in between to glossy and satin. It's very slick too...so it's not sticky like a gloss finish can be. It's also not really something that can be built up. The wood soaks it up. You can put a few coats on...but after that it doesn't really get any thicker, or hard for that matter. It's just an oil...

[Quarter]

You can put a few coats on...but after that it doesn't really get any thicker, or hard for that matter. It's just an oil...
Tru Oil is a polymerized blend of linseed and other natural oils and will build a film thickness, its really more of a varnish than a traditional oil. You can do a level mirror gloss if you want, it just takes many coats and some leveling.

[RvChevron]

I guess there are a couple ways to go about it, but I'd probably do it similar to how they do it on a MusicMan.
Using the back line of the nut as the transition point, tape / mask off the neck / fretboard and do the inlay, finish on the headstock.
Once done, re-tape / mask the transition line and then do the neck.

This pic from Elderly may help visualize it.

.
http://www.elderly.com/new_instruments/items/images/30N/AXSSRP_headstock-back.jpg

Thanks Quarter. I only need the headstock face to be painted and finished. Is it ok to also use truoil on the back of the headstock?

Also, do I get it painted first than inlay on??

[TooManyHobbies]

Tru Oil is a polymerized blend of linseed and other natural oils and will build a film thickness, its really more of a varnish than a traditional oil. You can do a level mirror gloss if you want, it just takes many coats and some leveling.

2nd.. micromesh works well for this. You can get the mirror shine.

[Ron Thorn]

- There will be a custom inlay or two on the headstock face as decals


That's a slight conflict of terms.

An inlay (as in a material that is cut out and glued into a routed cavity) should be done prior to any finishing.

A decal "usually" goes over the color coat and under the clear top coat. Fender has been known to put the decal on over the top coat on some models. It's not very durable using the later method.

Ron

[RvChevron]

That's a slight conflict of terms.

An inlay (as in a material that is cut out and glued into a routed cavity) should be done prior to any finishing.

A decal "usually" goes over the color coat and under the clear top coat. Fender has been known to put the decal on over the top coat on some models. It's not very durable using the later method.

Ron

Thanks Ron and sorry for the confusion. I meant to say both are inlays.

So the inlay should be done first before applying the top clear coat and paint?

[Ron Thorn]

Thanks Ron and sorry for the confusion. I meant to say both are inlays.

So the inlay should be done first before applying the top clear coat and paint?

Almost all inlays are done into bare wood. There will be glue squeeze out and the inlay will probably not be perfectly level, so you will have to sand it down to make it flush with the wood. Then sealer over the entire headstock face, sanded flat once dry.
Next is the patient task - Frisket Film is applied over the inlay and carefully Xacto knifed around the design. Peel away the excess leaving the Frisket masking only the design and shoot color.
Peel away the masking and clear top coat over it all.

If you try to inlay into a painted surface, you will have to retop coat it anyway. Also, you would be able to see the edge of the inlay because it wouldn't be flush with the wood, it would be flush with the top of the finish above the wood...not a good look.

Hope that helps.
Ron

[RvChevron]

Almost all inlays are done into bare wood. There will be glue squeeze out and the inlay will probably not be perfectly level, so you will have to sand it down to make it flush with the wood. Then sealer over the entire headstock face, sanded flat once dry.
Next is the patient task - Frisket Film is applied over the inlay and carefully Xacto knifed around the design. Peel away the excess leaving the Frisket masking only the design and shoot color.
Peel away the masking and clear top coat over it all.

If you try to inlay into a painted surface, you will have to retop coat it anyway. Also, you would be able to see the edge of the inlay because it wouldn't be flush with the wood, it would be flush with the top of the finish above the wood...not a good look.

Hope that helps.
Ron

Thanks Ron, I was wondering about the masking process.