Jon Silberman
01-03-2009, 09:57 AM
I'd like to share a recent experience of mine with my Traynor YBA-1 that may perhaps be of interest to others with a variety of amps. The amp was running noisier than I had wanted with some hum so I brought it in to Pete Cage for a thorough review. Among his determinations was that the amp was biased way, way lower than optimal for the tubes in question so he installed an internal bias pot and cranked up the bias.
When I got the amp home and played it, it was not the same amp. Still sounded excellent but in a much more crunchy/Marshally way. The smoothness that I'd dug so much about the tone had been lost.
After some further discussion, I brought the amp back and Pete moved the bias pot to the external side of the back of the chassis. He then marked the "high" and "low" bias points of the pot with red and green sharpies, respectively to enable me, at home with a simple screwdriver twist, experiment safely with whatever bias points desired. We used the 21st century-unnecessary polarity switch hole for the pot so no drilling occurred.
I played the amp for a while still biased hot. Then, this morning, I lowered the bias back down to where it had been before. Wa-la: smoothness (and some of the hum, but ceis la vie) restored.
There's an ongoing DRRI thread describing how, while the amp allows biasing in the 22-25 ma ranged, folks like Mike Kropoktin (KCA NOS tubes) advise cooling it down to 18 ma, with most power tubes, for the best tone. This is sage advice!
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1600/682310/1133497/29560876.jpg
Note: Silberman faceplate installed for kicks using the preexisting Traynor faceplate screw holes. Original amp and faceplate unmolested.
When I got the amp home and played it, it was not the same amp. Still sounded excellent but in a much more crunchy/Marshally way. The smoothness that I'd dug so much about the tone had been lost.
After some further discussion, I brought the amp back and Pete moved the bias pot to the external side of the back of the chassis. He then marked the "high" and "low" bias points of the pot with red and green sharpies, respectively to enable me, at home with a simple screwdriver twist, experiment safely with whatever bias points desired. We used the 21st century-unnecessary polarity switch hole for the pot so no drilling occurred.
I played the amp for a while still biased hot. Then, this morning, I lowered the bias back down to where it had been before. Wa-la: smoothness (and some of the hum, but ceis la vie) restored.
There's an ongoing DRRI thread describing how, while the amp allows biasing in the 22-25 ma ranged, folks like Mike Kropoktin (KCA NOS tubes) advise cooling it down to 18 ma, with most power tubes, for the best tone. This is sage advice!
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1600/682310/1133497/29560876.jpg
Note: Silberman faceplate installed for kicks using the preexisting Traynor faceplate screw holes. Original amp and faceplate unmolested.