PDA

View Full Version : Wiring a Standby in 5E3?


JCMNelson
01-09-2009, 06:40 AM
I have built a 5E3 from parts according to the original Fender schematic & layout (with loads of help). The only significant change is that we did not include a ground switch.

I'm using the inernational Weber PT and would like to wire in a standby switch. Links to photo's are below, can anyone offer advice?

Thanks a lot!!

http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr127/JustCallMeNelson/07012009041.jpg

http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr127/JustCallMeNelson/07012009040.jpg

http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr127/JustCallMeNelson/07012009038.jpg

SatelliteAmps
01-09-2009, 07:12 AM
Depends on how you want to wire it in, but the standby should lift the B+ from the circuit. Most common way for those amps is to put the switch right after pin 8 of the rectifier.

TopBooster
01-09-2009, 08:42 AM
If you want to wire it in just after the rectifier tube as Adam suggested, you'll need to put the switch after the first filter capacitor (and before the OT primary center tap) to prevent overstressing the rectifier tube every time you pull it out of standby. Just make sure the voltage rating of the first filter cap can handle the unloaded voltage, when in standby. I'd go with a 500V or even a 600V cap there to be safe.

Trout
01-09-2009, 09:05 AM
If it were me,

I would do it exactly the way it is done in the curent production 5E3.
Switch is installed between the Transformer CT and Ground.

To address inrush add the diodes as shown below.

In addition to using the diodes, to help prevent additional pops during switch cycling, put a .05 1200V cap across the switch terminals. I use a regular orange drop, but ceramic disc is acceptable as well.

http://home.mchsi.com/~my_mcintosh_240/5e3standby.JPG

donnyjaguar
01-09-2009, 09:42 AM
I can't offer any improvements over what Trout is proposing, just variations of the same thing.

JCMNelson
01-15-2009, 04:11 PM
Hi Trout,


Thanks a lot for that, I have a few questions to make sure I'm clear (I'm a bit of a newbie).
The schematic shows the red/yllw going to the switch (currently going to ground in mine) and then to the ground/negative terminal of C13 (first filter cap). Is it significant that it goes here, or would any ground be good?
TopBooster mentioned replacing the first filter cap for a higher voltage one (500 or 600). Is that something that I need to consider, or do the diodes and the cap on the standby switch resolve the problem? (cringe, I probably sound like an absolute idiot)
Thanks for the help.

Trout
01-15-2009, 05:34 PM
Hi Trout,



Thanks a lot for that, I have a few questions to make sure I'm clear (I'm a bit of a newbie).
The schematic shows the red/yllw going to the switch (currently going to ground in mine) and then to the ground/negative terminal of C13 (first filter cap). Is it significant that it goes here, or would any ground be good?
TopBooster mentioned replacing the first filter cap for a higher voltage one (500 or 600). Is that something that I need to consider, or do the diodes and the cap on the standby switch resolve the problem? (cringe, I probably sound like an absolute idiot)
Thanks for the help.

It actually goes the the ground shared by C12 & C13

The reasoning for the Red/Yel CT wire attaching there was to keep it off the pre-amp node.(3rd cap C11) This helps with noise reduction in the pre-amp stage.

#2

Fender shows using 475V caps in their service literature 500V or even 600V would be fine though sometimes there are issues with size and fit, I would not go under the 475V rating.

EnoreeRiver
01-15-2009, 09:04 PM
I have a modern 5e3 Deluxe. Is it normal to get a slight speaker pop when putting the amp into Standby (guitar plugged in, but volume and tone on the amp are all the way turned down)?

Another dumb question...should I be putting the amp into Standby just to change move my guitar input from one channel on the amp to the other channel?

While I am at it :)
Please tell me more about this jumpering deal...from one channel to the other?

And for the grand finally...I lied...I actually have two 5e3 amps. I'd like to play them both at the same time. Do I have to use a splitter box, or can I do a typical daisy chain from one instrument input to the instrument input on the other amp?

Sorry and Thanks for any advice! You are probably thinking, how did a noob end up with two 5e3 amps? How would he know to do that? I asked a lot of questions and talked to a lot of people and played through a bunch of amps! :)

JCMNelson
01-16-2009, 05:35 AM
Thanks for that Trout.

I'm really struggling to source the Diodes, do they have another reference, is there a suitable substitute, or can you suggest an outlet?

Thanks.

Trout
01-16-2009, 07:45 AM
Thanks for that Trout.

I'm really struggling to source the Diodes, do they have another reference, is there a suitable substitute, or can you suggest an outlet?

Thanks.

Fairchild ISL9R8120P2
BYT52
BY228
1N5062
IXYS DSA2-1600 (expensive)
MUR4100E Mouser should have those. 'E' suffix is avalanche
http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=MUR4100E
BYV96E
also,
any silicon rectifier will work as long as it is rated at least 1KPIV or above. (1N4007/UF4007) which are very low cost.
There is an acticle located here (http://www.freewebs.com/valvewizard/fullwave.html) that is a good read on the subject.

EnoreeRiver
01-17-2009, 11:08 AM
Bumping this one...If someone could answer some of my 5e3 questions above you'd really help me out...thanks!!