View Full Version : Desperate. Need help w/ modded Blues DeVille
TinyCrumb
04-12-2009, 12:36 PM
Reaching out to TGP community for some help.
I have an amp that is extremely nostalgic to me. I acquired it from the person who originally taught me how to play guitar when I was young, and as I recall it was the very first amp that I ever plugged in to.
Along the way, it was modified by a local hifi stereo shop owner before it was mine. I'm not certain to all the mods, but let's just say that anyone who I've ever showed to has said its pretty crazy and maybe even a bit stupid.
Either way, I played on it for about 10 years and it was "my" baby. I loved its tone, characteristics and everything else about it. I never needed to look at other amps because everything about it was so me. It started breaking down a year or so ago and finally died on me. I tried a few other amps but there's always a hole in my heart to have my baby back.
I've been to a couple local repair shops and to be honest they were kind of dicks about it. I know its no dumble or blackface Fender, but it doesn't change that I loved the way it sounded. Most of their reactions is that its just too "messy" to work on and I'd be better off just buying a new one. I hope you can understand why I don't see that as an option.
So I'm reaching out in hope that there is some amp tech/builder out there who'd be willing to take on a project. I'd be happy to compensate for the time as long as the cost doesn't get too crazy, but I'm basically just looking to get her running again. From my simplistic mind I would think this would be fairly easy as just tracing the circuit and finding the components in the chain not working ... but of course I have a habit of over simplifying things. Most of the mess you'll see is because he cut out all the ribbon cables and put in single cables for each one.
I've uploaded as many high resolution images as I could and I'd be happy to answer any questions. I'd want to just ship it out and of course I'll pay for shipping both ways. I can pay for the service via PayPal, check, money order or wire, whichever you prefer.
So ... any takers? Please?
http://tinycrumb.org/bluesdeville/1.jpg
http://tinycrumb.org/bluesdeville/2.jpg
http://tinycrumb.org/bluesdeville/3.jpg
http://tinycrumb.org/bluesdeville/4.jpg
http://tinycrumb.org/bluesdeville/5.jpg
http://tinycrumb.org/bluesdeville/6.jpg
http://tinycrumb.org/bluesdeville/7.jpg
http://tinycrumb.org/bluesdeville/8.jpg
http://tinycrumb.org/bluesdeville/9.jpg
http://tinycrumb.org/bluesdeville/10.jpg
http://tinycrumb.org/bluesdeville/11.jpg
http://tinycrumb.org/bluesdeville/12.jpg
Structo
04-12-2009, 12:40 PM
My I be the first to say WTF?!
What's with all the spaghetti?
Battery pack or filter caps?
I guess I can understand why the techs that you have taken this to would be reluctant to service it.
I hope you can find somebody but that is the strangest thing I have ever seen.
TweeDLX
04-12-2009, 12:53 PM
Joshua,
Is the shop that did the original mods an option?
Mike
rockon1
04-12-2009, 01:05 PM
Holy smokes! Im no tech but thats insane looking! Im wondering if you could buy a PTP board for it and scrap a lot of that stuff. I wonder whats with all that filtering? Bob
davemccarthy707
04-12-2009, 01:20 PM
You probably can order a new loaded circuit board from fender and have a shop install it. That would be my suggestion. However If I had it in front of me it probably wouldnt be too hard to bring back with about 50 hours of labor.
GuitarsFromMars
04-12-2009, 01:38 PM
Omega Amps...
WaltC
04-12-2009, 02:15 PM
Getting it fixed (so it works, as is) should be insurmountable and should be do-able for under $100 (plus shipping if you need to send it out) or $200 at the outside (if it's fixable).
Getting it restored, however, is not something I'd ever recommend and could easily cost upwards of $500 (not including shipping) if it's even possible.
Seriously, you should consider just moving on and get yourself a new best amp...
WaltC
04-12-2009, 02:16 PM
oops, I meant to say "should ***not*** be insurmountable" of course. Damn fingers <G>....
TinyCrumb
04-12-2009, 04:05 PM
Joshua,
Is the shop that did the original mods an option?
Mike
Unfortunately no. The gentleman that originally did the mod ... well ... its hard to describe without being rude or insulting, but he was one of those types that can come across as a bit elitist. I spent days tracking him down a year or so ago when it finally went dead, and when I told him about the shops that I took it to not wanting to work on it he simply scoffed and said "they must not know what they're doing", etc... He's not willing to work on it for time reasons, and frankly I'd be afraid that if I did have him work on it I'd never see it again as it'd just sit in his shop disassembled forever.
Holy smokes! Im no tech but thats insane looking! Im wondering if you could buy a PTP board for it and scrap a lot of that stuff. I wonder whats with all that filtering? Bob
You probably can order a new loaded circuit board from fender and have a shop install it. That would be my suggestion. However If I had it in front of me it probably wouldnt be too hard to bring back with about 50 hours of labor.
That's just the thing though, I don't want all new parts and the board is probably not the problem. To be clear, I can pick up a new (used) original one of these amps for around $600. They pop up on eBay and local shops all the time. But they sound nothing like this did. If I'm going to have to get a new amp, I'll move on to something entirely different.
I did some work for Joe & Bill awhile back and was given a 100w CRS for the work. I loved it, don't get me wrong, but it still wasn't the hifi signature this thing had and I just could never get my tone out of it. It was by far a better amp for sure, but since I had spent 10 years tweaking my tone out of this frankenstein thing, I just couldn't stop playing it. Money was tight at the time so I ended up selling the CRS back to Joe & Bill to use the cash for family, and then it was only a month later that this one died.
I'm more than willing to get something new. I've had my eyes on a GT Soul-O 75 or 150 for a little while, just something powerful, clean and pedal ready. But I really owe it to myself to try everything I can to get her working again ... which is why I'm reaching out to the community to see if anyone would help. Its my last effort.
WTF are all those capacitors for??
I completely understand the sentimental value for you. But to be completely honest, that is the most screwed up amp I have ever seen ever.... really, EVER.
I'm not sure what they're for, and to be honest its the same thing that the techs I have taken it to have asked. From what I can tell, those black and grey things on the board are the original caps, and they have all been snipped. Then where the board is supposed to route to the caps, there's the clear thick wires that come out and down, first to the one screwed to the side and then to the pack of 8 in the plexiglass thing.
I know absolutely nothing about electronics so I couldn't tell you what they were for.
That is just such a mess that I really can't immagine any tech wanting to take that job on. If you do find one that's willing to work on it, I wouldnt be surprised if the repair bill was as much as the cost of a new amp.
I know this isnt what you wanted to hear, but it's simply my honest, professional oppinion.
Good Luck with it! I really do hope you find someone to work on it, and it turns out to be something stupid like an easily replaced resistor.
Jade
The only thing I don't understand when people say this is ... why is it such a mess? I mean I get it, that it looks bad from pictures and in person, but these amps originally had ribbon cables, so all that mess is, is simply single cables for each one of the connections that would have originally been in a ribbon. Sure it looks messy, but it makes sense to me that if you just ignore those, there's not much else done to it (i think) besides the capacitor thing.
Getting it fixed (so it works, as is) should be insurmountable and should be do-able for under $100 (plus shipping if you need to send it out) or $200 at the outside (if it's fixable).
Getting it restored, however, is not something I'd ever recommend and could easily cost upwards of $500 (not including shipping) if it's even possible.
Seriously, you should consider just moving on and get yourself a new best amp...
Hi Walt. I'm not sure what you mean by fixed vs restoration. All I want is to get her working again. I don't want anything changed. I really want everything left as-is in the same way I played her for 10 years. Its just my simplistic mind that's telling me there's probably just one component in there that finally gave up, and getting it replaced would bring her back to life. I'm not at all interested in getting her back to "original" state. I can pick up another one of these off eBay anytime ... so I know I can always go that route. Its mainly that I want this amp in its modded condition just working again. And I'm desperate enough to try anything I can for someone to help :(
WaltC
04-12-2009, 09:05 PM
well, any competent tech could take a look at it and tell you if they could fix it in and hour or so ($65 or less), and I wouldn't ship it to get it looked at if I could avoid it. I can't tell for sure from looking at pictures but many of the caps on the board don't look stock, some of the wires that are there don't look like they're going to the same places and the ribbon cables went, and that whole filter cap add-on tray is completely non-stock and a pretty "different" looking mod as well. So stock Fender schematics may or may not be of any use and without schematics or drawings or explanations from the builder of what he did any tech would loose a lot of time doing circuit tracing and comparison to try and deduce the structure of the circuit, possibly all before any real work could be done unless there was some obvious easy problem readily visible like a broken wire, loose component or solder joint, or shorted or blown tube.
Not as easy to work on as you might think, and no guarantee that when fixed you'd have the same sound you remember.
Good luck...
TweeDLX
04-12-2009, 11:17 PM
...without schematics or drawings or explanations from the builder of what he did any tech would loose a lot of time doing circuit tracing and comparison to try and deduce the structure of the circuit, possibly all before any real work could be done...
This would be my starting point. Ask the builder (offer cash) to try and document his work so that someone else can fix it. That will make it much easier for any other tech you take it to to figure out. Good luck!
Mike
SatelliteAmps
04-13-2009, 01:57 AM
How much are you willing to spend to attempt to get it running. There are plenty of people who can do it, but a rough estimate would be around $200.
donnyjaguar
04-13-2009, 08:54 AM
Typical hi-end crackpot tech, using ten times the amount of capacitance required and adding a boo-teek line cord. I'd be inclined to gut the nonsense and set it back to factory configuration.
SatelliteAmps
04-13-2009, 02:51 PM
I think a lot of people are missing the point. The OP loved the way the amp sounded this way. He wasn't asking how to return the amp to something he doesn't want. He wants it this way, but functional, which is possible.
zzmoore
04-14-2009, 01:48 AM
Hhmmmmm, lets see. There will the cost of shipping both ways which will be extremely expensive. After it gets damaged in shipping, you will have a devil of a time establishing that it had much worth. Plus the shipping company will say that it was already broken when you brought it to them. And then there will be the ensuing law suit, by the widow of the amp tech, who is sure to die laughing when he opens up that catastrophe. All of a sudden, a $6,000.00 Two Rock does not seem so unreasonable.
Good Luck
Rosewood
04-14-2009, 07:59 AM
Strange looking amp. The repair may be simple if you don't have to remove all that mess to get to it. This looks like one of those blank check repairs, no estimate.
kevmin
04-14-2009, 08:47 AM
Disclaimer: You can die doing this if you aren't careful. If you are unsure how to do this safely, take it to a good tech.
The chopstick method
Begin with a visual inspection of the components. Sometimes that is enough for you to see if a resistor is burnt or a capacitor is damaged. If you don’t see anything upon visual inspection, you can use the chopstick method. This method allows you to find the source of the problem without the risk of shock or burn. It is also simple and inexpensive to do.
To conduct this test, remove the chassis from the cabinet. Hook up a speaker and turn the amp “on” and set it to “play” mode. Turn the volume controls up all the way. Using a wooden chopstick to probe, gently poke the components at their joint, wire and component connections. If a component is loose, you will hear noise when you poke or tap the resistor.
Make sure you check every component, because the noise may come from the resistor you are tapping, but one close to it.
Be sure to double check all connections to the PCB. I bet it could be one of those. If you hear a popping sound through the speaker when you tap, then that part of the circuit is passing signal. The problem is earlier in the circuit.
donnyjaguar
04-14-2009, 09:44 AM
Man, I don't care how good it may have sounded it can be made to sound better by removing that nonsense. Having that much capacitance on a tube amplifier is a detriment to the longevity of the tubes.
drgonzoguitar
04-14-2009, 10:53 AM
:eek:
Wow...I am not for sure what to say after seeing this.
:NUTS
Ok...that may not be constructive, but any tech might charge a ton just to figure out what is going on. I know I would charge at least $250 just to attempt it.
WesKuhnley
04-14-2009, 11:21 AM
I'm speechless. This is what dumpsters are for. Pay $25 and get your dough back from the guy in small claims court.
SatelliteAmps
04-14-2009, 02:45 PM
I think "better" is very subjective. If the OP liked the amp in this state, that is really all that matters. Buying a new one, or restoring it to how it was will not make it sound the way that it did. (Which may or may not be an improvement in tone).
Without knowing the circuit, making any claims as to what removing the capacitors will do is making quite a bold claim. Tube HiFi's used that much capacitance with no detriment to the tubes, or the circuit. It's just a different way to do things. Not right or wrong (maybe a bit ugly in execution).
StompBoxBlues
04-15-2009, 05:37 AM
joshua, sorry to hear about that. I hope folks responding can refrain from telling you to dump it.
Couple of things, maybe you could go into more detail by what EXACTLY you mean (symptom wise) by "started breaking down" and how long that lasted and then "til it died" and what the entailed (any sound, any power light, blows fuses? buzzes? no nothing?)? What work has been done on it since you have had it? What has been tried (did you retube? What happened?)
The more info you give, the more someone with the time and expertise might consider helping you out here. I would also look locally...and make it VERY clear that you want it back "as it was after modding" as much as possible. Somebody (maybe a little further away) might take it on.
It's not hopeless. The "problem" mainly is the mods of course, but also that the wires now are "in the way" for getting at the board, for testing, it just makes everything harder but not impossible.
If the amp was running for 10 years, and hopefully something just blew or changed, it might be simple to get it back again. I notice a burn mark on the cloth insulation near a capacitor. It looks fresh to me, I would look in that area first.
The "mods" the guy did, did you ask him if he documented any of it?
IF he doesn't have the time, ask him to work WITH another tech at the very least as consultant...it might save tons of time if someone takes it on, if you have retained the original modder to take a telephone call from the rep if he needs something answered?
I wish you luck!
Edited to add: Just Googling for Northwest pacific amp repair I'm finding some links:
Plexi Palace - variacs, tube amp mods, Marshall specialists
http://www.vintageamps.com (http://www.vintageamps.com/)
"Home of the Most High Tone"
21065 Bear Valley Rd. #2
Apple Valley, CA 92308
760-961-8324
Or THIS guy (unless I'm hitting some you tried, this guy seems up for it anyway!)
http://jetcityblues.blogspot.com/2007/09/kts-tube-amp-repair-got-old-tube-guitar.html
KT's Tube Amp Repair
Got an old tube guitar amp in the closet (garage/attic/basement) that quit working a few years ago? How about that favorite amp that is sounding kind of lifeless these days?
Well friends, our old friend (and great blues drummer) Kirk "KT" Tutttle can help! KT started his amp repair business about a year ago, and has brought many tube amps back to life since then. Some of the amps I've seen in his shop included a vintage Ampeg B-12, a tweed Fender Tremolux (sweet!), a brown Fender Concert (double sweet!!), and my old '62 Fender Princeton.
If you've got an amp that needs some work, contact KT at 206-478-0983, or via e-mail at ktskicks@yahoo.com (ktskicks@yahoo.com). His shop is located in Seattle's north end just off of Aurora. Tell 'em the Playboy sent ya!
OR THIS guy (though he is in Sacremento...it isn't THAt far) (he mods for other uses...he might be open to "restoring weird mods", etc.
http://www.skipsimmonsamps.com/
Over the past 15 years, I have also been restoring and modifying vintage PA amps for use with guitar and harmonica, including MASCO amps.
You might want to post this (or shorter version) in the regular amp forum as well?
donnyjaguar
04-15-2009, 10:43 AM
The "mods" the guy did, did you ask him if he documented any of it?
IF he doesn't have the time, ask him to work WITH another tech at the very least as consultant...it might save tons of time if someone takes it on
Doubtful if he'd go for this as it would show his truly (incompetent) colors.
Just start gutting it man. Its a PC Board so putting it right isn't a career breaker of a job.
TinyCrumb
04-16-2009, 10:17 PM
How much are you willing to spend to attempt to get it running. There are plenty of people who can do it, but a rough estimate would be around $200.
Depending no what's wrong with it and how much more life I could expect out of it, I'd spend more repairing this than it would cost to get a new one. But I'm really afraid of getting taken advantage of so I hesitate putting a specific figure on that or even saying that much.
Typical hi-end crackpot tech, using ten times the amount of capacitance required and adding a boo-teek line cord. I'd be inclined to gut the nonsense and set it back to factory configuration.
Well I'll make sure and not send it to you then hehe ;)
I think a lot of people are missing the point. The OP loved the way the amp sounded this way. He wasn't asking how to return the amp to something he doesn't want. He wants it this way, but functional, which is possible.
Thank you!
What's funny, is that there's litterally enough filter capacitance for at least 6 of these amps, and on top of that, it looks like he added a choke as well! LOL
It may be a simple cheap fix, it may be something that would take days to track down in all that spaghetti, I have no idea. It certainly is the most interesting thing I've seen in a long time.
In any case, I hope you find a good local tech to get your baby up, and running again!
Jade
I know its funny, and I hope that people aren't interpreting this thread as "OMG help me fix my most amazing tone machine". That's not it. I get it that it's a stupid mod. I get it that it's silly. I've been laughed at ... in my face by rude local techs enough to get it.
Hhmmmmm, lets see. There will the cost of shipping both ways which will be extremely expensive. After it gets damaged in shipping, you will have a devil of a time establishing that it had much worth. Plus the shipping company will say that it was already broken when you brought it to them. And then there will be the ensuing law suit, by the widow of the amp tech, who is sure to die laughing when he opens up that catastrophe. All of a sudden, a $6,000.00 Two Rock does not seem so unreasonable.
Good Luck
The Two-Rock was never unreasonable. I would have loved to keep both amps, and for sure the TR was a much better built amp. I don't think anyone would argue that Bill & Joe know their shit and more importantly are both wonderful people. I got the chance to hang out with them a bit and brought the frankenstein with me down to their shop when I picked up my CRS. They were the first builders I had met who didn't laugh in my face about it and the fact that I liked its sound. We A/B'd it for a little while with a few TRs and it was quite fun hearing Bill describe the differences he was hearing. His description of it that I most remember was a very "hifi" sound.
Disclaimer: You can die doing this if you aren't careful. If you are unsure how to do this safely, take it to a good tech.
The chopstick method
Begin with a visual inspection of the components. Sometimes that is enough for you to see if a resistor is burnt or a capacitor is damaged. If you don’t see anything upon visual inspection, you can use the chopstick method. This method allows you to find the source of the problem without the risk of shock or burn. It is also simple and inexpensive to do.
To conduct this test, remove the chassis from the cabinet. Hook up a speaker and turn the amp “on” and set it to “play” mode. Turn the volume controls up all the way. Using a wooden chopstick to probe, gently poke the components at their joint, wire and component connections. If a component is loose, you will hear noise when you poke or tap the resistor.
Make sure you check every component, because the noise may come from the resistor you are tapping, but one close to it.
Be sure to double check all connections to the PCB. I bet it could be one of those. If you hear a popping sound through the speaker when you tap, then that part of the circuit is passing signal. The problem is earlier in the circuit.
THanks for the help kevmin! I am desperate enough to definitely attempt this if there was no one willing to take a look at it but it looks like I might have a few options so I'm gonna play those out first before I go ruin the thing further myself by pretending I can do anything right electronically.
Man, I don't care how good it may have sounded it can be made to sound better by removing that nonsense. Having that much capacitance on a tube amplifier is a detriment to the longevity of the tubes.
I'm not sure how to respond to this. What does "better" mean? "Better" to you? Probably. "Better" to me? no. I've played many (including this one before it was modded) 4x10 Blues Devilles and none of them ever had a place in my ears like this did when I made it sing. As far as tube life, I had this for 10 years and got plenty of life out of the tubes. I was a fairly consistent player, for awhile playing every weekend and pushing the tubes very hard with insane stage volume (large venue) and I rarely had to change tubes.
I think "better" is very subjective. If the OP liked the amp in this state, that is really all that matters. Buying a new one, or restoring it to how it was will not make it sound the way that it did. (Which may or may not be an improvement in tone).
Without knowing the circuit, making any claims as to what removing the capacitors will do is making quite a bold claim. Tube HiFi's used that much capacitance with no detriment to the tubes, or the circuit. It's just a different way to do things. Not right or wrong (maybe a bit ugly in execution).
Thanks again!
joshua, sorry to hear about that. I hope folks responding can refrain from telling you to dump it.
Couple of things, maybe you could go into more detail by what EXACTLY you mean (symptom wise) by "started breaking down" and how long that lasted and then "til it died" and what the entailed (any sound, any power light, blows fuses? buzzes? no nothing?)? What work has been done on it since you have had it? What has been tried (did you retube? What happened?)
The more info you give, the more someone with the time and expertise might consider helping you out here. I would also look locally...and make it VERY clear that you want it back "as it was after modding" as much as possible. Somebody (maybe a little further away) might take it on.
It's not hopeless. The "problem" mainly is the mods of course, but also that the wires now are "in the way" for getting at the board, for testing, it just makes everything harder but not impossible.
If the amp was running for 10 years, and hopefully something just blew or changed, it might be simple to get it back again. I notice a burn mark on the cloth insulation near a capacitor. It looks fresh to me, I would look in that area first.
The "mods" the guy did, did you ask him if he documented any of it?
IF he doesn't have the time, ask him to work WITH another tech at the very least as consultant...it might save tons of time if someone takes it on, if you have retained the original modder to take a telephone call from the rep if he needs something answered?
I wish you luck!
It is a bit hard to recall the exact symptoms as it broke down so long ago but here it goes. As I recall, I think for awhile I would be playing and the sound would cut down to really quiet. Like I could turn the volume all the way up, and I would hear a tiny overdriven sound, almost like I was driving the preamp tubes really hard but the whole power section was just doing nothing. Then it would randomly just come back to normal. I think there were a few other weird things happening but eventually it just died. No power light, no sign of life. The fuse is fine, I tried it first and still nothing.
There is no documentation of the mods. He basically just did it as a one-off (thank God eh?).
Doubtful if he'd go for this as it would show his truly (incompetent) colors.
Just start gutting it man. Its a PC Board so putting it right isn't a career breaker of a job.
Yeah, that's exactly right (on the true colors thing) ... and thanks for the encouragement. Its so nice to hear people say there's hope. This amp means a lot to me.
sleepingtiger
04-16-2009, 10:58 PM
I feel for you man. Even though it looks like a true clusterf%&@, it had YOUR tone! I hope you can get somebody to have a heart & step up & at least take a look at it & see if it IS someting simple that went wrong.
I can't say that I blame the techs for saying, "Mmm...mmm, not me!". A skilled hobbyist might be an option. Maybe you can find someone on one of the amp forums or just get something else & wait until you meet someone willing to try & help.
Good luck!
Tony
SatelliteAmps
04-17-2009, 03:09 AM
Doubtful if he'd go for this as it would show his truly (incompetent) colors.
Just start gutting it man. Its a PC Board so putting it right isn't a career breaker of a job.
The OP doesn't want to gut the amp. Why is this so hard to understand? He wants the amp the way it is, but working. He's not asking for advice on making into something else, or restoring it to what it was, or really any other advice, except on how to get it repaired with it's mods intact.
Saying the mod guy is incompetent is a bit much, considering you have no idea what the mods were, or how it sounds. It might be ugly work, but that doesn't mean a whole lot.
SatelliteAmps
04-17-2009, 03:10 AM
PM sent.
My offer is out there to fix it if the OP wants to ship it.
WesKuhnley
04-17-2009, 07:24 AM
PM sent.
My offer is out there to fix it if the OP wants to ship it.
You are far, far braver than I.
AR-305
04-17-2009, 10:44 AM
I may have missed it skimming thru all the yuk yuk here but you say you played the amp for ten years untill the problem started. HAVE YOU TRIED TESTING AND REPLACING THE TUBES? If not please put the amp back together and try a full new set of decent tubes. The guy was obviously a bit over compulsive with his mods and the white braid tubing looks a little unusual but could easily be cut off to expose what is probably pretty normal wiring.
Cpt. Picard
04-17-2009, 11:40 AM
Or THIS guy (unless I'm hitting some you tried, this guy seems up for it anyway!)
http://jetcityblues.blogspot.com/2007/09/kts-tube-amp-repair-got-old-tube-guitar.html
I REALLY like the look of this guy!!!
:D
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_p71zZftDl5Q/Ru8JEGxpFjI/AAAAAAAAAjo/CeMprR3FTNM/s400/Mad+Scientist.jpg
Either way, I am sure you'll find someone willing to take this on as a curious experiment, as evidienced by Sattelite Amps.
I feel it would be more of a collaborative effort between you and the amp builder/tech.
I doubt you'd be able to just say say, here's $500, fix my amp...
StompBoxBlues
04-17-2009, 02:41 PM
[/left]
I REALLY like the look of this guy!!!
:D
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_p71zZftDl5Q/Ru8JEGxpFjI/AAAAAAAAAjo/CeMprR3FTNM/s400/Mad+Scientist.jpg
Either way, I am sure you'll find someone willing to take this on as a curious experiment, as evidienced by Sattelite Amps.
I feel it would be more of a collaborative effort between you and the amp builder/tech.
I doubt you'd be able to just say say, here's $500, fix my amp...
I don't know if it was sarcastic or serious, but I did TOO!!
Thought "This is the kind of person I would want to take MY amp to, to have it modded or fixed!"...seriously.
Also am thinking the OP ought to really take it in (or take up Satelite on his generous offer) and just HEAR from someone serious about it how much it would cost. I mean, it worked, it slowly died (with symptoms that are pretty often heard) and then died. Dead is "good", in that it is pretty easy to trace out where the dead part is. After that though..."normal operating" things need to be checked. Obvious things like the OT, the power trans, the rectifier, voltages at the tubes, none of those things are difficult for any experienced amp tech.
I think the OP ought to stop taking it so hard about being "dissed" by the amp guys. Your opinion is JUST as valid as theirs, you've used the amp and liked it for years. So if they start hemming and hawing, just say "look, if it is too difficult for you to understand, do you know any amp tech that CAN handle it?" (seriously...this is bullshit, putting down the mods and the wiring. Amp makers argue over parallel wires, PTP vs. PCB, etc, etc. and if the amp sounds how you want, a GOOD tech would work with you to get it back how it was)...
I don't think at all it is hopeless. Worst case, some components, maybe even the OT got ruined, and need replacing. If it worked for 10 years, it isn't breaking any "good practices" rules...
Hang in there! You absolutely can get this how it was.
donnyjaguar
04-17-2009, 02:47 PM
With skinny arms like that he has to be a guitar player too.
GearHeadFred
04-17-2009, 05:16 PM
:rotflmaoWow - I've never seen a flux capacitor used for audio application before!!!
http://www.timboucher.com/journal/wp-content/uploads/2007/04/flux-capacitor-merkaba-hexagram0.jpg
skipm45
04-17-2009, 07:55 PM
I may have missed it skimming thru all the yuk yuk here but you say you played the amp for ten years untill the problem started. HAVE YOU TRIED TESTING AND REPLACING THE TUBES? If not please put the amp back together and try a full new set of decent tubes. The guy was obviously a bit over compulsive with his mods and the white braid tubing looks a little unusual but could easily be cut off to expose what is probably pretty normal wiring.
+1 on the tubes. It obviously worked and worked well for a long time prior to dying. It could be that simple. Or as complicated as a new hyperdrive wobulator.....
Skip
www.skipzcircuits.com (http://www.skipzcircuits.com)
TimmyP
04-17-2009, 10:24 PM
I expect the cotton wrapping is to dampen vibration in the wires to cut microphonics - and those buggers can be pretty microphonic. Without it, I'll bet the amp would look pretty normal. The real problem is that one cannot see anything in there.
Tubebender
04-18-2009, 09:45 AM
I was wondering where all my shoe laces went that my cat ran off with.
May the force be with you all. (you find that one armed bandit who created that and put him away)
Structo
04-18-2009, 10:11 AM
All that is lacking is some spaghetti sauce. :rotflmao
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