Question for Scott P on micromeshing necks

[Kip]

Quick question for Scott (or anyone else who may know the answer):

I remember you did something to your PRS necks with micromesh (?) that got the gloss sticky feeling off. Can you let me know how to do it? Thanks!

[Clorenzo]

I have used this white 3M stuff that looks like a scourer and is supposed to be equivalent to 0000 steel wool. I actually used it on a Warmoth neck with what they call a satin finish but to me is matt, and I wanted it really satin (it was too rough feeling). It feels perfect now. I'm sure it works too for dulling a too glossy finish. There isn't much to it, just work it in circles up and down the back of the neck till you've got it all covered.

[Scott Peterson]

Yes, MicroMesh is the stuff, I buy the entire kit from Stew-Mac.

Simple to use - I just get the neck clean, wet the micromesh (starts at 1500 grit) and work the neck, using light pressure and keeping it even. I have a few towels nearby to clean off the film that develops. By the time you get up to 8000 grit, you'll see the shine coming back. After 12000 grit and then a good polish, it'll shine like mad - MUCH deeper than before. But will be smooth as satin to touch.

Easiest to do to nitro necks; it works like crazy on lacquer, but it takes longer on the higher grades to get the shine back, but it *will* come back by 8000 and once you finish, you'll do every guitar you own.

Also, a note - clean the micromesh after every use; my first set is over 8 years old and I can still use it. I bought my second set just this year and keep the first set around as insurance.

This is a remarkable thing too; once you do it you'll go nuts and do all your guitars. Takes about 10-15 minutes of elbow grease.

[Steve Rigby]

Micromesh also works beautifully on pickguards. It removes the scratches and restores the shine. I had a P-Bass with a tortoise guard that was badly scratched when I bought it. After about 15 minutes, it was like a mirror. This stuff is amazing!!

[-CM-]

How do you handle the transition between the newly satinized section and the still glossy part? Do you pick a point, and tape it off? Or does it not matter, because it shines back up when you use the MicroMesh?

This is what I did with one of my guitars (taped where the satin ends). I just used steel wool, though, so the part I sanded is visually dull, and very distinct. It's fairly crappy looking, but feels very nice indeed. I'd like to clean it up, and do my other guitars. But I'm not about to attempt anything on my PRSs until I'm sure of what the results will be.

[-CM-]

I got my MicroMesh kit from StewMac the other day, and am hoping someone will answer the above question.

[holding gritty cloth to guitar's neck with great drama]

I'm going to do it, I swear. Somebody better give me some instructions, or this neck is toast!

[/holding gritty cloth to guitar's neck]
[/great drama]

[Scott Peterson]

A few things to know about using Micromesh:

- Use *LIGHT* pressure and no sanding block on necks. In essence you are going to do, though faster, what you would be doing if you played the guitar for 10-15 years inside 10-15 minutes. You are NOT "sanding" the neck in a traditional sense; you are not removing tons of finish. You ARE treating the surface.

- I wrap the micromesh fabric around my index/middle/ring fingers and work back and forth from the headstock to the body. I flip the guitar up to hit the edges of the fretboard near the body (and mask off the body as detailed below).

- If you want DEEP glossy, wet the micro mesh fabric. Not soggy or dripping; just wet.

- You'll know you're done with each grade of grit once you feel no "drag" on the sanding as you work. That is your cue to move to the next grip.

- Wipe off the neck in-between each different grit with a clean dry cloth.

- If you just want to roll the edges of your fingerboard, you can easily use the micro mesh dry and again lightly work it. Don't "Grind" it into the edges, just work it lightly and evenly across the entire edge of the fingerboard.

- I use 3M's painters masking tape (it is often blue) to mask off the body of the guitar.

- The gloss finish you will end up with on the neck and fretboard edge is actually a truer and deeper sheen than even the PRS "dipped in glass" finish they are known for. This is NOT your "I rubbed out my neck with 0000 steel wool so it feels nice, but looks like poo" type of thing. :D Honest.

- The end result is a *soft* feel with incredible deep sheen that does not get tacky =ever= and rolls the fretboard edges and treats the ends of your frets in a manner that playing the guitar for 15 years would naturally do anyway.

- Wash off the micro mesh when you are done with warm water (no soap!) and let them air dry. They last a LONG time. 8 years so far on my first set.

[vai777]

I am assuming that these micromesh sanders are only to be used on the neck.

Not to, lets say remove pick scratches from a finish on a guitar.

if im wrong please let me know. also is there any product that will remove pick scratches from the finish.
thanks

[Scott Peterson]

Originally posted by vai777
I am assuming that these micromesh sanders are only to be used on the neck.

Not to, lets say remove pick scratches from a finish on a guitar.

if im wrong please let me know. also is there any product that will remove pick scratches from the finish.
thanks

Nope - the micromesh would do wonders on the body too. It was originally designed to remove scratches from plexiglass windows on airplanes.

I have not used it in this way before though.

[A440]

I'll have to give this a try. I'm finding my CE22 neck to be sticky and it's hard to move around on the neck sometimes. I tried using a little powder, but only helped temporarily.

[-CM-]

Thanks for the tips, Scott. I redid the neck I had previously done with steel wool, and it looks much better. Still some work to do, but it's OK. I'm going to try one of my acoustics next.

[Kip]

Just did mine -- worked great! I didn't get to read Scott's post first so I used the block but seemed to work okay.

[A440]

just checked out stewmac for more info.

you're using the sandpaper kit (not the finishing pads).
correct ?

[-CM-]

I think you want the whole kit, which includes 9 different grits (2 of each one).

[Scott Peterson]

Originally posted by -CM-
I think you want the whole kit, which includes 9 different grits (2 of each one). :AOK

[BKRMON]

Originally posted by Scott Peterson
A few things to know about using Micromesh:

- Use *LIGHT* pressure and no sanding block on necks. In essence you are going to do, though faster, what you would be doing if you played the guitar for 10-15 years inside 10-15 minutes. You are NOT "sanding" the neck in a traditional sense; you are not removing tons of finish. You ARE treating the surface.

- I wrap the micromesh fabric around my index/middle/ring fingers and work back and forth from the headstock to the body. I flip the guitar up to hit the edges of the fretboard near the body (and mask off the body as detailed below).

- If you want DEEP glossy, wet the micro mesh fabric. Not soggy or dripping; just wet.

- You'll know you're done with each grade of grit once you feel no "drag" on the sanding as you work. That is your cue to move to the next grip.

- Wipe off the neck in-between each different grit with a clean dry cloth.

- If you just want to roll the edges of your fingerboard, you can easily use the micro mesh dry and again lightly work it. Don't "Grind" it into the edges, just work it lightly and evenly across the entire edge of the fingerboard.

- I use 3M's painters masking tape (it is often blue) to mask off the body of the guitar.

- The gloss finish you will end up with on the neck and fretboard edge is actually a truer and deeper sheen than even the PRS "dipped in glass" finish they are known for. This is NOT your "I rubbed out my neck with 0000 steel wool so it feels nice, but looks like poo" type of thing. :D Honest.

- The end result is a *soft* feel with incredible deep sheen that does not get tacky =ever= and rolls the fretboard edges and treats the ends of your frets in a manner that playing the guitar for 15 years would naturally do anyway.

- Wash off the micro mesh when you are done with warm water (no soap!) and let them air dry. They last a LONG time. 8 years so far on my first set.

There's one for the archives.

[tede3]

Got the mocromesh...........WOW
Thanks Scott and everyone for the information about this product.
It really works great for a '57 Reissue neck and any type of pickguards. I'm sure it will work for guitar bodies too.
Thanks to "redlizard" for Buying information.

[tede3]

Sorry, I can't spell........micromesh.......

[Lex Luthier]

I've been getting Micromesh at Rocklers woodworking stores because it's cheaper than Stew Mac.

PS: MM also works great for polishing frets but it does wear out the sheets sooner since you are polishing metal. Mask the frets, work side to side (not up and down the neck) 1800>3200>4000, don't really need to go higher than that, they will look like chrome after 4000.
Get a sheet of the three grits and just use them for frets.

[85db]

Simple to use - I just get the neck clean, wet the micromesh (starts at 1500 grit) and work the neck, using light pressure and keeping it even. I have a few towels nearby to clean off the film that develops. By the time you get up to 8000 grit, you'll see the shine coming back. After 12000 grit and then a good polish, it'll shine like mad - MUCH deeper than before. But will be smooth as satin to touch.

Hello Scott and All,

I'm wondering whether starting from 1500 and finishing at 12000 is the right procedure in all cases.

My EJ Strat has a thick layer of nitro lacquer. It's totally all right with me, I just don't want it to be so sticky. My goal is to keep as much lacquer as possible while removing the stickiness. My 1983 Squier '57 reissue is exactly what I'd want this EJ to be: feels like it's got a thick and hard coat of lacquer, yet it's smooth and polished. When playing this Squier's neck I sometimes forget the fretboard is maple and not rosewood... Love it!

So would you guys still recommend that I start with 1500?

Some more questions about the application:

Did you remove the neck and the tuners in order to make it even all over?
How did you polish the fretboard in between the frets? In all directions or parallel to the frets? Did you try to stay away from the frets in order to not polish them unevenly?Thanks.

[Scott Peterson]

Quickie answers:

I'd always start with 1500 personally; stop when it feels right. I like the gloss; but it feels so soft at the same time.

Answer to #1: No. I don't care on most all my guitars; it looks like it was played for 10 years is all.

Answer to #2: I only do the back/sides of the neck. No top of the frets or the fretboard at all except the sides.

[85db]

Answer to #2: I only do the back/sides of the neck. No top of the frets or the fretboard at all except the sides.

I definitely want to micro-mesh the fretboard because it's as sticky as the back of the neck. I wonder what would happen to the Fender logo if I micro-meshed it as well :-).

[The Everlove]

Is there any downside to completely removing the nitro finish from a CS guitar aka bare wood? (other than loss of value) does sweat negatively effect the wood due to absorbtion?

[kiteflyer]

Oh man, micromesh is amazing. I bought the set of pads from stewmac after reading this thread and the results are great. (By the way, the pads are quite a bit less expensive than the full paper set and seemed to work well.)

The Nitro neck wasn't exactly sticky before, it just felt like nitro usually does. After using the micromesh it doesn't look much different, a little more glossy, but it sure is slick and soft. A big improvement!

Thanks go out to Scott Peterson.

[wooldl]

Yes, MicroMesh is the stuff, I buy the entire kit from Stew-Mac.

Simple to use - I just get the neck clean, wet the micromesh (starts at 1500 grit) and work the neck, using light pressure and keeping it even. I have a few towels nearby to clean off the film that develops. By the time you get up to 8000 grit, you'll see the shine coming back. After 12000 grit and then a good polish, it'll shine like mad - MUCH deeper than before. But will be smooth as satin to touch.

Easiest to do to nitro necks; it works like crazy on lacquer, but it takes longer on the higher grades to get the shine back, but it *will* come back by 8000 and once you finish, you'll do every guitar you own.

Also, a note - clean the micromesh after every use; my first set is over 8 years old and I can still use it. I bought my second set just this year and keep the first set around as insurance.

This is a remarkable thing too; once you do it you'll go nuts and do all your guitars. Takes about 10-15 minutes of elbow grease.

+1+1+1+1 I bought from stewmac too. I didn't bother getting back to a high gloss, but man it feels much better. Two summers ago at an outdoor gig I had a horrible time with the neck being sticky. This last summer, same gig, my post-micromesh neck was perfect.

[outtahear]

- Wash off the micro mesh when you are done with warm water (no soap!) and let them air dry. .

Hi Scott:

Just out of curiosity, why no soap??

[Ben F.]

Hi Scott:

Just out of curiosity, why no soap??

Bump. I have the same question, since I used a drop of detergent with mine during wet polishing....

-Ben

[Lucidology]

Great thread...

Thanks to all of you

[derek_32999]

Bump. I have the same question, since I used a drop of detergent with mine during wet polishing....

-Ben


First, soap is just fine.


Second, I got the Micromesh and brought it to my Dad's house. He pretty much scoffed at me doing this to a brand new nitro tele neck. He has been a carpenter his whole life and has done anything from cabinets to room additions to steel guitar repairs.

He says "why not just buff it out with a buffing pad and some rubbing compound" it does the same job. Then I told him how much the set was. Around 40 bucks.... "ouch, for sand paper....." "you know there is a Lowes right down the street". I say "well, everyone says it makes the neck shiny AND takes away the tack. He says wrong. All you are doing is scuffing the finish then re shining it.

So, we do the micromesh... Damn, he was right. The neck felt and looked just as it did before the job. :( Something good DID come out of it though. I found I like my necks around 1800 grit sanded and I was able to roll the fret edges and polish the frets, so all in all a cool experience.
Worth $40 bucks? No. If I were to do this again for the first time, I would buy a sheet of each 1500,1800,(here is where I stopped for a satin feel) 3200, 4000, 8000,(fair gloss still a little satin feel) and 12000 grits (bright, deep sheen somewhat tacky) like a fresh buffed neck.

I would also check my local hardware or lowes to see if they have this grade sandpaper in stock... :jo

[MightyGuru]

Thanks for the great suggestion Scott Peterson. These micromesh thingies work great. I took them to a dull satin nitro finish and now the neck looks/feels like glass. Cool.

[sysexguy]

I'm so happy right now, thanks guys for recommending this product!!!!!

Andy

[aeronius]

anyone ever try this on a tung oil-finished guitar/neck? Would it be like sanding bare wood to 12000 grit or would the hardened oil make a difference?

[MightyGuru]

OK...the neck looks amazing. Seriously, like a custom shop/boutique finish and it only took a half an hour to do the neck (not the fretboard....starting that tonight!).

I wish I had taken before and after closeups.

I do have a question...might be stupid, heh. The finish on the back of the neck is too glassy now, lol. Can I go back down to one of the courser grits and satin-ize the neck? Seems like it would work fine but I had to ask.