LPB-1 Nano

[stratman_el84]

Just picked up an EHX LPB-1 Nano. I like it, but compared to a vintage LPB-1 that another guitarist I know owns, it seemed to add more bass whereas the vintage LPB-1 was more transparent. (Using a G&L Legacy Tribute Premium with single-coils into a couple different amps, both tube & SS.)

I found that changing the two 0.1uF coupling caps for 0.022uF caps in the LPB-1 Nano seemed to really help. While researching, I found that the only differences circuit-wise between the EHX LPB-1 Nano and the EHX Screaming Bird Nano (the 'Bird being a treble-boost) pedals were those two coupling caps. The Bird used 0.0022uF caps as compared to the 0.1uF caps in the LPB-1 Nano.

My LPB-1 Nano now sounds much more transparent with the coupling cap change, at least when driving it with my G&L. :bender

Just thought I'd post my findings for informational purposes in case anyone had similar results and wanted to alter the treble/bass response balance on their LPB-1/Screaming Bird Nano pedals.

Strat

[Brettski]

I've been using the LPB-1 stock as an "always on" type of deal whenever I'm using any sort of gain. The tiny little bit of grit it adds when set to unity gain (bout 8:30?) and said low end boost really make my Devi Ever fuzzes, BYOC Shredder and Tonebone Classic really shine.

I think it's a really underrated pedal. If I had but thirty dollars to spend on a pedal, I'd choose the LBP.

[schenkadere]

I'm considering an LPB-1. I was never much of an EHX person, but it's cheap. I'm looking for something to place before my OD's to push them a bit...fattening up the tone is fine too. Just wondering if you think this would fit the bill as opposed to a Micro Amp, SD PU Booster or similar.

[sa1126]

Thanks for the tip. I had an LPB-1 nano for a while but couldn't get passed the bass boost so I sold it. From what I remember, it stays transparent until you get it passed ~10 o'clock on the dial. I need to pick up another one and mod it.

[stratman_el84]

I'm considering an LPB-1. I was never much of an EHX person, but it's cheap. I'm looking for something to place before my OD's to push them a bit...fattening up the tone is fine too. Just wondering if you think this would fit the bill as opposed to a Micro Amp, SD PU Booster or similar.

All a matter of taste, as they all do basically the same thing. As far as hitting your OD's harder, yes, that it will do. As to how that affects each OD and how they react, that depends largely on the specific OD, your playing style, and your other equipment and settings. Some react well, some do not.

Myself, since I play blues and not metal and don't use too much distortion/crunch, I prefer a boost to not add bass, as it tends to muddy the tone and reduce the articulation, at least with my rigs.

Being that I'm usually playing through my Testament 20-watt cathode-biased EL84 amp, the lower-powered amps in general tend to get muddy with too much bottom.

I use a Rocktron Austin Gold OD and I set the Pre Bass control at about 10 o'clock to roll off a bit of bass. I rarely have the Gain control on the OD past 10 o'clock or so. I like the AG for it's very amp-like behavior, as it reacts much like an amp to a hotter input. Driving it with a Dyna-Comp-> LPB-1-> AG, I can nail a great SRV-tone at small-club volumes, using the LPB-1 as a solo-boost.

In larger venues where I can push the Testament more to add grit, the AG gets set to be just another clean-boost for more flexibility in stage levels for dynamics.

This is just what I've found that works for me, my rigs, and my playing style after 30-plus years of abusing guitar. Your mileage may vary, I am not a lawyer, yadda yadda, etc etc.

Strat

[kludge]

I like it because it ISN'T transparent. I have other, transparent boosts.

[schenkadere]

I like it because it ISN'T transparent. I have other, transparent boosts.


yeah...I'm not looking for transparent...just beef!...a little mid and/or bass boost is fine...just not hi end.

[goodhonk]

:bender

[schenkadere]

:bender

I guess that means it will work for me? LOL

[stratman_el84]

D'OHH!! :jo

The cap value I ended up with was 0.047uF, *NOT* 0.022uF!

I got all excited about sharing this mod and forgot that it was the 0.047uF caps I ended up with. The 0.022uF caps were just a little bit too bright after I'd played with it for a while, and I ended up going with the 0.047uF caps.

The 0.047uF caps compared to the original 0.1uF caps roll off the bass just enough to tighten it up. It's not a dramatic change. There's still plenty of "thump-n-thunder", just not so much that it gets muddy when the amp overdrives.

Sorry about the blonde moment! :bkw

Strat

[stratman_el84]

yeah...I'm not looking for transparent...just beef!...a little mid and/or bass boost is fine...just not hi end.

One thing to keep in mind when playing in a band is that what sounds good to you standing in front of the amp is not what people out in the crowd are hearing. I can't tell you the number of times I've been at a club where a band was playing, and the guitars sounded like mud at the middle and the back of the room because the guitarists didn't compensate for this effect.

Bass frequencies carry much better over distance than higher frequencies do. The farther from the stage that you get, the more bassy things sound and the less highs there are. That's why it's important to have enough highs and upper-mids to "cut through the mix", especially on solos.

Strat

[schenkadere]

One thing to keep in mind when playing in a band is that what sounds good to you standing in front of the amp is not what people out in the crowd are hearing. I can't tell you the number of times I've been at a club where a band was playing, and the guitars sounded like mud at the middle and the back of the room because the guitarists didn't compensate for this effect.

Bass frequencies carry much better over distance than higher frequencies do. The farther from the stage that you get, the more bassy things sound and the less highs there are. That's why it's important to have enough highs and upper-mids to "cut through the mix", especially on solos.

Strat

All true...just don't want something that wll promote fizz.

[schenkadere]

Tried it...sounds great...bought it. Fattens things up nicely and give a fair amount of boost...for 39 bucks...can't beat it.

[schenkadere]

Dumb question...but does everyone's LPB-1 have a real heavy click footswitch? I remember that being an EHX thing, but haven't had one in many years. I'm really surprised I bought one, but man, it sounds great.

also...only used battery so far...this should work with my Godlyke Power All, right?

[stratman_el84]

Dumb question...but does everyone's LPB-1 have a real heavy click footswitch? I remember that being an EHX thing, but haven't had one in many years. I'm really surprised I bought one, but man, it sounds great.

also...only used battery so far...this should work with my Godlyke Power All, right?

Yeah, the switch needs a firm foot, but it breaks in after a while. Any standard 9VDC pedal supply will work fine, the LPB-1 doesn't draw but a trickle of current.

Strat

[iwantmypie]

i built a lbp-1 a little while ago and i dig it for being a fat boost. at the moment its circuit is off to the side so i could use its enclosure to house another pedal i'm building but i'm sure ill have it back together soon. i'm actually using a amz mosfet booster as my main boost right now. its more of a clean transparent and even frequency booster than the lpb-1 is. both are great.

[stratman_el84]

I just wanted to say that I'm not stating that what this pedal sounds like stock is bad or "wrong". I'm simply stating what I did to adjust the pedal for *my* musical style, rig, & taste. If the added bottom works for someone else, that's great.

I posted what I did for those who found that, like myself, the stock frequency response was unsatisfactory and would like a simple & cheap way to "tweak" it to better-suite their needs without having to buy another pedal.

You could even take the mod in the opposite direction and increase C1 & C2s' values to increase the bass even more. One could even make a decent boost pedal for bass guitar in this manner.

One thought I had was to add a switch with different cap values to tailor the response for different sounds/instruments/amps/styles/venues, as there is plenty of room in the pedals' enclosure.

Strat

[schenkadere]

Yeah, the switch needs a firm foot, but it breaks in after a while. Any standard 9VDC pedal supply will work fine, the LPB-1 doesn't draw but a trickle of current.

Strat

Cool, thanks!

[jackrussel]

D'OHH!! :jo

The cap value I ended up with was 0.047uF, *NOT* 0.022uF!

I got all excited about sharing this mod and forgot that it was the 0.047uF caps I ended up with. The 0.022uF caps were just a little bit too bright after I'd played with it for a while, and I ended up going with the 0.047uF caps.

The 0.047uF caps compared to the original 0.1uF caps roll off the bass just enough to tighten it up. It's not a dramatic change. There's still plenty of "thump-n-thunder", just not so much that it gets muddy when the amp overdrives.

Sorry about the blonde moment! :bkw

Strat

Got to try it when I get home. The bass boost on the lpb-1 always made me feel a bit itchy. You sir, are a life saver!

[jackrussel]

So... i'm guessing "the mole" from EH is just a LPB-1 with coupling caps of higher value...

So... i was guessing how hard would it be to install a 3 way switch so you can select between a fat boost (mole), Regular LPB-1 and treble booster (Screaming Bird).

Anyone want to volunteer to make a schematic? I'm electronics illiterate :huh (maybe a drawing would be best :D)

[schenkadere]

Got to try it when I get home. The bass boost on the lpb-1 always made me feel a bit itchy. You sir, are a life saver!

I like it. :)

[jackrussel]

I like it. :)

Could you upload a pic of the mod? I need to be sure which caps to replace if there's more than 2 :D I don't have my lpb-1 with me but i´m just too curious:AOK

[ptdesign]

Tried it...sounds great...bought it. Fattens things up nicely and give a fair amount of boost...for 39 bucks...can't beat it.


I believe you can. I find the LPB-1 to be hard, cold, bland. You can build a AMZ / Jack Orman mini - booster for 20.00 if you perf or vero it. Or buy a board from Jack @ http://www.muzique.com/amz/mini.htm

It's musical, is great in front or at the end of your chain, easy to mod.
Many boutique boosts and OD's are built on it's platform.

The LPB-1 can be louder after a dist than a fuzz so it dosn't work as a universal lead boost (on my board anyway)

IMHO

[schenkadere]

I believe you can. I find the LPB-1 to be hard, cold, bland. You can build a AMZ / Jack Orman mini - booster for 20.00 if you perf or vero it. Or buy a board from Jack @ http://www.muzique.com/amz/mini.htm

It's musical, is great in front or at the end of your chain, easy to mod.
Many boutique boosts and OD's are built on it's platform.

The LPB-1 can be louder after a dist than a fuzz so it dosn't work as a universal lead boost (on my board anyway)

IMHO

I'm a soldering spaz and don't have the time or space with 4 kids running around the house, but thanks! LOL.

[Brettski]

I just wanted to say that I'm not stating that what this pedal sounds like stock is bad or "wrong". I'm simply stating what I did to adjust the pedal for *my* musical style, rig, & taste. If the added bottom works for someone else, that's great.

I posted what I did for those who found that, like myself, the stock frequency response was unsatisfactory and would like a simple & cheap way to "tweak" it to better-suite their needs without having to buy another pedal.

You could even take the mod in the opposite direction and increase C1 & C2s' values to increase the bass even more. One could even make a decent boost pedal for bass guitar in this manner.

One thought I had was to add a switch with different cap values to tailor the response for different sounds/instruments/amps/styles/venues, as there is plenty of room in the pedals' enclosure.

Strat
That's not a bad idea. Socket them sucker and swap out those caps as you need to. Something tells me you're one of those guys who only keeps two screws in the bottom of pedals:dude

[schenkadere]

After spending more time with this pedal, I'm returning it. Cheap, noisy junk...well, for my purposes, anyway. Anyone want it before I return it? Make me a paypal offer. PM if you are interested.

[stratman_el84]

Could you upload a pic of the mod? I need to be sure which caps to replace if there's more than 2 :D I don't have my lpb-1 with me but i´m just too curious:AOK

The parts are labeled on the circuit board. The ones you want are C1 (that's the one that couples the signal into the transistor) and C2 (that's the one that couples the signal out). They're little green chiclet-looking things with two leads that have "2A104J" printed on them in white letters.

Use a pencil-type iron of around 20-30 watts. Don't heat things too long. Keep a wet sponge nearby to wipe the irons' tip on. Get the tip clean first by melting solder on it and wiping it on the wet sponge repeatedly.

"Wet" the hot tip with just a bit of solder before soldering or unsoldering something so as to make good heat transfer and to melt the solder where you're working quickly. Use rosin-core electronic solder, NOT plumbing solder! Use solder-wick to clean the holes in the circuit board. Again, use caution to not heat things for too long.

Strat

[jackrussel]

The parts are labeled on the circuit board. The ones you want are C1 (that's the one that couples the signal into the transistor) and C2 (that's the one that couples the signal out). They're little green chiclet-looking things with two leads that have "2A104J" printed on them in white letters.

Use a pencil-type iron of around 20-30 watts. Don't heat things too long. Keep a wet sponge nearby to wipe the irons' tip on. Get the tip clean first by melting solder on it and wiping it on the wet sponge repeatedly.

"Wet" the hot tip with just a bit of solder before soldering or unsoldering something so as to make good heat transfer and to melt the solder where you're working quickly. Use rosin-core electronic solder, NOT plumbing solder! Use solder-wick to clean the holes in the circuit board. Again, use caution to not heat things for too long.

Strat

Thanks for the tips :AOK Already spotted the little suckers, now just have to get the replacement caps. I'm getting pretty good with the iron though :D first my ds-2, then my rat, then my wah... now the lpb-1. I'll have more modded pedals on my board than stock ones... i think i might have a problem...:D

[jackrussel]

Got another question

I'm not sure which capacitor type to use.

I have polyester film caps which are 250v (with an epoxy coating) and others with 100v with a plastic coating (the block type).

Like these:
http://www.konek.com/images/Film-Capacitors/mkt68.gif
and these:
http://www.konek.com/images/Film-Capacitors/mkt58.gif

Sorry for the dumb question but does the voltage or cap type make a difference?

Thanks!

[stratman_el84]

JR, there's no such thing in electronics as a dumb question except the one you should have asked, but didn't for fear of appearing "dumb".

Either one will work, as the voltage we're talking about here is 9.3VDC or thereabouts, so any cap rated for 25VDC or more should be plenty. I believe the ones I used were rated at 50VDC. The original 2A104J caps were 100VDC, as the "2A" part of the number indicates. Both are overkill.

There may be some small sonic difference between the two types, but probably not enough for most people other than the "cork-sniffer" types to notice. I'd go with the polyester film type here, as the plastic-block types usually have PCB auto-insertion-machine-style short, stiff leads that would make them difficult to install in that style PCB.

Good luck man! :AOK

Strat

[jackrussel]

Thanks for all the help!


Just in case I changed my mind... also it was handy to try different values.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/pp147/xilofone/lpb1a.jpg

And the test subjects:
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/pp147/xilofone/caps.jpg

The results:

0.1uf (Stock caps): Adds bass, turns into mud pass 10 o'clock.

0.022uf: quite the opposite of the stock caps. keeps adding treble as you turn it up. I found the sound to be too thin for my taste.

0.047uf: a hair past 9 o'clock (sweeet spot:)) my rat no longer sags on low notes. Distortion sounds beefier and retains definition. As you turn it up more beef, starts getting muddy past 2 o'clock.

0.047uf = WIN!

Keep in mind that I did this because i stack the lpb-1 with my rat and use the rat with the distortion at 9 o'clock. The lpb-1 just gives me a bit of extra dirt when i need it. Also my guitar has a very bassy mohoganny body so the extra bass made my distortion sound a bit muddy.

Strat, you the man! thanks again.:AOK

[sa1126]

^ where did you buy the caps and socket? I just got an LPB-1 and would love to experiment with it.

[jackrussel]

^ where did you buy the caps and socket? I just got an LPB-1 and would love to experiment with it.

I got it from a local electronics store. Caps are konek, the sockets come in strips like this:
http://rocky.digikey.com/weblib/Mill-Max/Web%20Photos/310-93-164-41-001000.jpg

[sa1126]

Thanks. I'm going to get cracking on finding some parts and modding this thing.

[stratman_el84]

That's not a bad idea. Socket them sucker and swap out those caps as you need to. Something tells me you're one of those guys who only keeps two screws in the bottom of pedals:dude

Actually, I was considering a super-mini rotary switch on the side with a mini speed-knob to be able to change voicing "on the fly", as it were.

As for the two-screws thing, I'm actually quite "anal" about things like that. I even label various screws as I remove them so they go back in the same place. I guess it's just habits developed from years of working in avionics and military/defense electronics where details mean lives.

I *have* been known to pull apart a pedal, guitar, or amp between sets at a club at the band table to switch out parts though. :D


Strat

[hemorrhage]

Hey guys,

I noticed Russell mentioned the LPB1 is basically what they used in the Mole with different caps. Did anyone ever mod the Mole yet? I bought one and while I like it, I want to open it up... I noticed a big green capacitor in there, could that be filtering out the high end from the signal? Any help getting this thing modded for guitar would be awesome!

Thanks:eek:

[stratman_el84]

Hemorrhage, just read the entire thread carefully, then look at the PCB and find the first cap connected to the output jack in series and the other one connected to the input jack in series. They will look like small green or brown "Chiclets" with two leads.

You can use a meter with a "continuity-beep" function to trace the signal path from the In/Out jacks. Make sure you've removed the battery and you've got the In/Out footswitch in the "In" setting before trying the continuity test and that you have 1/4-inch cables inserted into both jacks with the other ends of the cables unconnected to anything, as the jacks may short to ground when no plug is inserted which will throw off your tracing.

Good luck!


Strat

[hemorrhage]

Thanks Strat!

I thought that was it. Mine has a green bugger. So which caps would be best for a thick milkshake guitar sound, rich with heavy low end? Any anyone ever pull off the 3 way switch? BASS/FLAT/TREBLE

I use either a Rat or Muff after it usually and want less high roll off when engaged? Thanks again for pointing this NOOB in the right path...

[stratman_el84]

You'll have to experiment a bit as everyone has his own prefernces & tastes, but I'd start at .047uF. A smaller value like .033 or .022uF will increase the low-end roll-off which will make the highs more dominant and a larger value will increase the low-end beef. Season to taste ;) .

BTW, there are TWO caps to change, not just one.


Strat

[hemorrhage]

Thanks for the tips again Strat! Nobody is talking about this one. So do you replace both caps with same resistor or just experiment? And do you happen to know which are stock on the Mole, as it seems to roll off the highs pretty hardcore.

To do the switch, would I use something like they did in the Blue Box mod? Just connect some wire to disengage the cap(s)? -> http://www.noisefx.com/article/mxr_blue_box_mod

Thanks for your quick replies! :stir

[stratman_el84]

The "Blue Box" is not anything like the Mole, so any mods described for the "Blue Box" are not applicable to the "Mole". Here's a schematic for the "Mole" (it uses the same circuit & diagram as the "Hog's Foot").

http://www.muzique.com/schem/mole.gif

The first thing I'd try is either lifting one leg of the 0.1uF capacitor that's across the 10K resistor or removing it completely to take that cap out of the circuit to see if that adds enough highs, or use a smaller value. The next thing is to try smaller-value caps in place of the two 3.3uF caps shown, maybe starting with 1uF and try them with and without that 0.1uF cap I mentioned before in the circuit.


Strat

[hemorrhage]

Thanks for the ammo! Now to start getting dirty... I do wonder though if installing a switch could work on this guy to toggle the sounds.

Thanks again for the schematic!