FR nuts...Where's the breakover point?

[Tone_Terrific]

The string runs in that v-slot but is then pinched by the clamp at some hard to see spot. Have these things been possibly mis-installed, occasionally, in terms of accurate placement?
It certainly looks like the string does not break over the leading edge. I am not familiar with the manufacturer's spec for placement, so from where is the scale length measurement to be taken?

[wizard333]

It SHOULD break over the leading edge, but they are often machined poorly and do not. I re-cut all mine (not an easy process on hardened steel) so that they break over at the right point AND the radius is correct, like on any other nut I'd install.

Takes serious time and wears out files like no tomorrow but its the only way I can stand to have a locking nut. In stock form they dont break over the leading edge and the radius is way off for the neck, which I can't stand.

Anymore, with locking tuners and delrin/graphtech nuts, I avoid a locking nut if i have a choice.



The string runs in that v-slot but is then pinched by the clamp at some hard to see spot. Have these things been possibly mis-installed, occasionally, in terms of accurate placement?
It certainly looks like the string does not break over the leading edge. I am not familiar with the manufacturer's spec for placement, so from where is the scale length measurement to be taken?

[GM Reszel]

Agree with Wiz ! I will add that Schaller has always been inconsistent in their quality here. I never had problems with the pro Ibanez suff and come to think of it the Gotoh nut has been great as well.

[Tone_Terrific]

So. I'm thinking the shelf cut to support the nut should actually be angled back. like a headstock, to force the strings to comply with the track that they are supposed to lie in. The mounting bolts and holes would have to match, of course.
That should leave the string exiting cleanly from the leading edge.

Whatcha think?:confused:

[Zero]

I haven't had a problem with any of mine until recently when I installed one and the high E was dead sounding. Would not ring out properly. What I found, at least in this case, was that I did not have the retainer bar, that bar that pulls the strings down behind the lock, down far enough and the clamp would lock the string in an improper position. Once I lowered the string retainer, it was fine.

About your idea: The problem with angling back is you will then not be flush against the fretboard edge. Unless you got rel fancy and could angle the fretboard edge. Seems like it would be really difficult to get right.

I had a brainstorm while trying to solve this problem I had. The clamps should be redesigned so that it clamps the entire length of the string as it passes over the locknut. Meaning the clamp would have four little "V" shapes that would go down into the nuts "V" grooves and force the strings down.

[David Collins]

Just to add another confirmation, I agree with the above. Wizard pretty much nailed it - they are intended to depart from the face, but both the angle and the radius often require fine tuning to get the departure point and individual string heights just right.

[GM Reszel]

And yes to the above - if you angled slightly back you could potentially eliminate the issues.