Marshall 4x12 slant cab recover 101

[Scumback Speakers]

Ok, gents, who wants to recover their Marshall 4x12 slant cab? I said I'd do this a few weeks back, so I'll start with the tolex stripping portion of it.

First, get a good sized area to work in, doesn't need to be clean, cuz it will be cruddy when we're done! Try not to piss off the little woman by leaving a mess, though...OK?

Start by removing all of the hardware & screws, the speakers, the cables, jack plate, casters, and anything else that's sticking up made of metal or plastic.

Plastic corners might not be salvagable, so get ready to buy those from your favorite Marshall supply place (if you're putting them back on). If you want to save them (they're only $25 or so for a full set), get out your dremel tool, and grind out the rivets that hold them in (or drill them out). If you've got screws, great! Unscrew them, and put them back in later. Keep the corners in a ziplock, and note where they went on the cab.

Once the hardware is off, the baffle board is unscrewed, the back panel is off and the speakers are out, unstaple the piping (unless you're going to replace it, too). Get out the straight tip screwdriver, and pry those staples out carefully (if you're reusing the piping), and don't jam your hands with them! They're old, and probably bordering on rusty, so be careful.

Now here's the fun part, start pulling off the tolex from the inside edges. If you want to use your old tolex as a pattern for the new tolex (assuming it's still got the edges!), be REALLY careful. Don't slip up and rip it. In some cases, there's no choice, it rips cuz it's old, glued down too well to come up in one piece, already ripped, torn or otherwise unsuitable for tracing. No big deal, we'll get that covered, too.

Here's our test subject 4x12 cab. This is an early - mid 80's Marshall 1960 Vintage slant cab. As you can see, we've got ripped cloth, ripped tolex, chipped out wood chunks, broken logo (3 pieces), dings, dents and crap all over this one. Here's where we're going to start...
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/DSCN3661.jpg
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/DSCN3662.jpg
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/DSCN3663.jpg
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/DSCN3664.jpg
And here's where we're headed...keep in mind this cab pic has no corners, with inlaid top & bottom gold "string" piping and we'll be putting casters back on (this is the 2x12 Marshall Handwired Cab, a mere $900 online) the cab's bottom to match our straight cab. What we're going to wind up doing is to match it up as close as possible to an old 60's cab (which are pretty pricey these days).
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/mhw412.jpg

[KevinF]

I am looking forward to this!!! I am going to build my own cab and your posts on doing the tolex/grillcloth will be very helpful. Thanks.

[Scumback Speakers]

OK, figured I'd better touch on a few points for removing your plastic corners. If they're old (these are about 20 years old), they're most likely dented and f**ked up. However we don't want to gouge the wood anymore than necessary, so let's try to be a bit more careful than just stabbing, and cracking... let's get the corners off quickly, without too much heartache. We're going to wind up going with smooth corners with 45 degree angle cuts just like they did in the old days, so the least amount of wood filler or dowel rods we need to fill chips, rivet holes, etc... the better. Let's start with removing the plastic corners. Get a short, but wide straight tip in there under the plastic corner.
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/cornerremoval1.jpg
Then get out a nail puller, and shove or pound it smoothly under the straight tip. Go slow, and don't force it unless you have to. Using leverage on the short stubby screwdriver to pry up the plastic should be kept to a minimum as once you loosen the rivet, the whole thing pops off pretty easily. Here's step two...
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/cornerremoval2.jpg
What's left afterwards...nope the tolex isn't cut real well here, they've got corners to cover their boo boos!
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/cornerremoval3.jpg
Of course the bottom corners look alot better, go figure!
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics1/cornerremoval4.jpg
Side handles took a crap, though...no big deal, we'll be replacing them with metal handles from Mojotone, and also putting in T-nuts, and machine screws to hold the new handles on.
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/sidehandle1.jpg
Here's a surprise, though. The handles fit just fine, but the screw holes don't all match. We'll be doweling up the old holes, and drilling new ones for the T-nuts. Since the flange is wider than the existing Marshall handle, when the cab is doweled up, we'll decide how many screws we want to use. The old cabs used six screws, this handle has holes for 12, so we'll figure that out when we're done with the tolex. 12 scews is certainly going to be secure enough, I'll let you decide how close you want to be to "old school Marshall". If you look for the original handles, be prepared to pay. There was a pair in eBay last weekend, opening bid of $250. Yikes! These cost under $24 shipped for a pair. You decide. Here's a comparison of the handles.
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/sidehandle2.jpg

[Scumback Speakers]

Well, let's see. We have to unscrew the baffle board, and take off the old cloth. It's pretty faded, to say the least (fade resistant black, huh? Oh yeah sure! LOL) and it's got ALOT of staples, roughly 40 per side. Get out one of the #1 small straight tip screwdrives and start prying them up. Those cheap computer toolkits have the perfect size for this, and they also fit the really small piping staples exactly, so break out the small straight tip screwdriver, slide it under the old black cloth, center under the staples and start prying them up. Then get out the pliers and pull them the rest of the way out. See ya in about 1/2 hour. Boring work, but... you have no choice.
Man, this cloth is OUTTA HERE, huh? Yuch!
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/grillclothfade.jpg
Staples freaking everywhere.
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/staples.jpg
How your white, gold or silver piping is cut to go around corners inside. This is the lower lefthand corner (looking from the backside). Notice the cut to the corner thru the piping bead? That's to allow it to bend at the corner and stay flat. Use extra staples here when you reattach it, too. Keeps it in place.
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/pipingcut1.jpg
Upper righthand corner (from the rear view) of the piping where it starts and ends (notice there's no cut to round the corner as in the previous pic?)
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/pipingcut2.jpg
The tolex should all just peel off with your fingers, or with a little persuasion from a screwdriver or knife blade now. Rip it all off... go ahead, get nuts!
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/strippedcab1.jpg
Get the bottom, too. No half assed stuff here!
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/cabbottom.jpg
Someone asked how they get the angle on the baffle board for a slant cab. Here's how, take a good look. A precision angle cut I guess.
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/bafflesideview.jpg
In the next installment, we'll dowel up the extra holes, and sand the cab smooth with a belt sander, and sanding blocks for the inside corners, etc. We'll get going on this on the weekend. Check back in two or three days for more instructions! Have a good afternoon, OK?

[el34power]

OMG I feel weak:(




:D

[big mike]

I dig you're tutorials Jim! When's the next installment?

[tybone]

Great stuff. I am about to do the same thing to a JCM 800 slant cab. Keep it coming!!!!!

[Scumback Speakers]

Originally posted by big mike
I dig you're tutorials Jim! When's the next installment? big mike, I'm taking the cab down to my amp designer's place on Saturday morning. I'll cover stripping the old glue remnants off, belt sanding the sides, hand sanding the rest with a sanding block and 60-80 grit sandpaper, and using a dual action sander, too.

Then we'll fill the two cutouts that held the anti-skid trays, dowel up extra rivet holes left by handles, old casters, corners, etc., and other depressions left by 20 plus years of wear and tear, and replace the back panel with one made of 1/2" ply. After that's all done, we'll start recovering the cab. Hopefully, you can take a cab like this...
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/1960bo1.jpg
and make it look like this (this is the same exact cab after recovering): http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/1960b6.jpg
We'll pretty much cover it all, I think. If there are any specific questions, I'll be happy to answer them here or via email. I don't check the PM function here, so try me at: sales@scumbackspeakers.com or post a question here. Better by email though.

[big mike]

CooL!!!! Looking forward to the rest. Thanks Jim!

Might be brave enough to find a beat cab and try it myself!

[RL in Fla]

Great post Jim . The plastic corners are about the diciest part to get off without breaking . When I redid my Lead 12 I opted to just get new ones ( Mojo's got 'em) since the old ones were scratched to bejeezus anyhow . I drilled out/doweled the rivet holes and used #6 brass screws in lieu of rivets , and "Brass Black" by Birchwood Casey . That many rivets was gonna cost as much as the new corners if I remember right .

[Scumback Speakers]

Originally posted by big mike
CooL!!!! Looking forward to the rest. Thanks Jim!

Might be brave enough to find a beat cab and try it myself!
I've got three slants, and two straights I'm restoring, Mike. One is going to get BluesBreaker reissue cloth and silver piping. Another one is getting checkerboard and white, and this one is getting Basketweave/S&P cloth with white piping to match my old 69 cab. I haven't decided on the other straight cab I just picked up, but the old 69 cab is getting new cloth and tolex... nothing like a perfectly restored old resonant cab with G12H30 014 cones. :dude

[IPlayHamers]

This is very interesting and could be quite useful to those of us that find old cabs that need some TLC.

Thanks for the tutorial and I look forward to reading more.

[Scumback Speakers]

OK, we left off with stripping the cab, and now move to the most enviable task of all... taking off the glue residue. Thrilled, aren't you? (Yeah, me neither...barf!)

My advice is get one of the workbenches you can raise and lower, get two clamps, an electic belt sander of 4" or wider, a hand sanding block, 40 grit & 80 grit sandpaper for the sanding block. Outfit your belt sander with 50 grit, get two belts in case you find that hidden staple, screw, whatever. It happened to me during this..

OK start by getting your workmate bench up to a comfortable height you can reach WITH the cab on top. At 6'2" I had my bench about the height of my upper thighs, then added on the 30" of the cab height and got just around shoulder height. Do what's comfortable for you. Then clamp your cab with diagonally so it won't flex. Or use more if you want, it's up to you.
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/cabclamp1.jpg
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/cabclamp2.jpg
Make sure your clamps are tight, no deviations. Get out the belt sander. Keep two things in mind right now.
1) 50 Grit sandpaper cuts quick. Do not push in, let the sander's weight be your only force. I'll show you why later...
2) Hold on tight! The 50 grit paper will grip the wood and take off if you're not holding on. Forget the gym today, I did!
Use the belt sander going with the grain (side to side the long way, usually) of the wood. Move quickly, go back and forth. Typical time to do one side with FRESH paper, 2-3 minutes.
Back sides of the cab, you can do with the belt sander the long way only, and very sparingly, it will strip these small width pieces LIKE THAT, and if you hang on too long you have ruts, or rounded edges where you don't want them. We'll fix with wood filler, but it's easier NOT to make that mistake.
After 20 minutes of sanding your cab you should be looking like this on all four sides, but here's the top for reference:
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/cabtop1.jpg
Now you get to clean out the back indents. That's where the back panel fits in flush to the back of the cab. You have to get that goop, glue, sawdust, and crap out of there to finish the tolexing. I knew you'd be thrilled. Get a single edged safety razor, the 40 grit sandpaper, and a sanding block. Put the 40 grit in the block. Sand a little of the indent to get it warm, then take the razor and scrape the goop out. Here's the area I'm talking about: http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/backindent1.jpg
After you get going on it, you'll get a feel for how much sanding you need to do, before it needs to be scraped with the razor. The glue will dry up alot, but still be sticky, but you can still get a nice little ball of crap each time you scrape. Anyway, angle the blade to scrape the goop off, and angle it into corners, press in and scrape those corners out good. When it starts looking like this, you're close. Remember to alternate the sanding block and the razor. Neither does it all, but they do well in tandem.
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/backindent2.jpg
This operation should take around 30 minutes to an hour. Depends how diligent you are, and how many beers you've had, right? Stay focused, razors are shop, belt sanders can tear your skin off and screw up your hands, so let's celebrate after we're done, OK?
While you're tired of moving your hands with the sanding block and razor, take the time to brush off your baffle board with a whisk broom or similar, get the dust off, and the lint, then spray paint it FLAT BLACK. Get it looking like this, and you're good to go. The edges where the screws are don't show, so don't waste any extra paint on them, unless you want to.
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/cabbaffle1.jpg
OK, when you're done, it should look alot like this. That's right THIS WHITE! All of that black goop was glue. Make sure your back indents, and your inside cab edges are all this clean. We need that area to wrap new tolex around, so if the old glue is there, it won't stick as well. Want your tolex to unroll? Didn't think so. We'll reconvene shortly for new cloth for the 4x12 baffle board. Thinking of BluesBreaker reissue cloth with white piping... whaddya think? Here's the cab before today...
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/strippedcab1.jpg
And now...
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/cabstripped1.jpg
Check in with you later for the grill cloth installation...

[big mike]

WoW!!! Looks GREAT jim.

Oh boy. I gotta find me one to re-cover.

[Scumback Speakers]

Originally posted by big mike
WoW!!! Looks GREAT jim.

Oh boy. I gotta find me one to re-cover. Well, you can't see it in this pic but there's some minor wood putty fills that will happen to this cab, man... dings, dents, dowel up some holes.....sheesh...I've decided to order in some more gold piping, do some routing for channels for the piping, and we'll make this one be a mate for this straight cab. Then we'll have a potent looking stack, for sure...
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/1960b7.jpg

[tonedaddy]

Jim,
that straight cab look great!!
And thanks AGAIN for posting these threads.

At the price you can find old trashed cabs, you're really making it affordable for anyone to get the cabs they want.

Like a 4x12 for every room!!
VERY COOL!
:dude
:D

[Scumback Speakers]

Thanks, tonedaddy, appreciate the kind remarks!

I found this cab for $226 including s/h, and with the stereo wiring. I figure the recover costs go something like this:
1) Tolex $45 for real Marshall black elephant (three yards needed).
2) Grillcloth $40 BW/S&P (one yard).
3) Handles (metal), Mashall plastic corners $35-$40
4) Plywood back $20 (1/2" baltic birch 5'x5')
5) Piping $40 (all new piping in gold 3/16" around baffle, 1/8" over top and bottom in four channels we'll cut)
6) Glue and 3" paint roller $14
7) Gold/Brass screws & Tnuts for handles $9

You're still into the cab for $434, plus your "sweat equity" but with significantly upgraded hardware and coverings, plus you get to say "I recovered this cab." with pride if anyone asks. Sure.... you can buy a new cab at Mojotone for about $600 or so including shipping, but it ain't the old wood.

Probably alot easier, though! LOL

[Scumback Speakers]

Well, after some serious consideration, I decided to go with something completely different on this cab. I figured since this would be my "Scumback demo cab" that I'd go ahead and make it unique. So I'm going with the BluesBreaker grill cloth and SILVER piping. I loved that look on my first client's Scumbag () and the extension cab I made for a 10 & 12 extension cab (1x12 extension on top, 10 & 12 extension cab on the bottom), so I figured WTF and go with it for the 4x12 demo cab, too. We're going to put back on all of the standard plastic, too, except the plastic corners. We'll still upgrade to metal handles for durability. So...here's where we're at. Start with getting your cloth as straight as possible. Put extra staples at the corners so the cloth doesn't move as you'll have to stretch this "by hand" to make it tight. Start on a corner, and line it up...staple very close to the edge and evenly. This cloth needs to be stapled through it's weave. If you just staple between the weaves, it moves when stretched. So staple it as shown, you don't want to pull out 20 staples...do you?
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/bbcloth2.jpg
You want it this straight.
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/bbcloth3.jpg
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/bbcloth5.jpg
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/bbcloth7.jpg
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/bbcloth8.jpg
I start on the top of the baffle board, and get it dead nuts straight as possible. There is some "weave wandering" in this cloth, as in any of the Marshall cloth I've used/seen/bought, so line it up tight, straight, and staple carefully on top. Flip the baffle board, then pull it over the bottom. Do your best to have it straight and staple in the center, this will keep the cloth from "flexing" as much towards the sides. So pick a good line on the cloth, FOLD IT along that line across the entire bottom, staple 3 times in the center, then start pulling the cloth even to match out to the sides. Check your line, and stapling technique every 2-3 staples. I got lazy and had to pull out about 15. Don't get lazy, it just costs you staples and time, and you get to redo it cuz it looks crooked. After the top and bottom are stapled, you do the sides the same way. Pull the cloth tight, then fold the cloth over the baffle board edges and start stapling again, right on the edge closest to the front of the baffle board.
It should look like this when you're done...or real close.
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/bbcloth9.jpg
Now just trim up the excess, and staple down the loose ends and you're done. Here's the finished product (before trimming).
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/bbcloth1.jpg
We'll do the piping install this weekend, after the new piping gets here, then start recovering the cab... stay tuned for more.

[594life]

Ok, I built a straight 4x12 to vintage marshall specs (13 ply, box joints, gold vein channel, etc.). It's beautiful! I started to cover it with tolex, but can't get the front corners right. I already know I'm going to have to remove the tolex I have on it. I've got more tolex and am eager to figure these out. Can you please help me with these carzy corners?

[Scumback Speakers]

Well, you're in luck. I got a straight cab myself that I'm recovering at the same time as this slant cab. If you wrapped your tolex all the way around the corners and have a pile of tolex that's UNCUT, I can help you out. If you already cut out the corners, or tried to do something, then the chances aren't so good.

Can you send me a pic of what you've done to my email address? Then I can tell you whether you've "screwed the pooch" on this cab's tolex or not.

Email the corner tolex pic to:sales@scumbackspeakers.com

[594life]

Great. I'll email you those pics tomorrow evening. Thanks so much!

[Scumback Speakers]

Depending on what time you send them I should be able to answer you right away. It's raining again here in So Cal (ARGH! ENOUGH WATER ALREADY! SHEESH!) so I can't do any more tolex until it stops and the humidity goes down a couple of notches. The tolex glue just won't set up right if it's too damp.

You may have to wait until Sunday for your "fix it" pics to be posted here. Just depends on the weather out here I'm afraid. Try to be patient. I hate stripping of tolex... take it from someone who stripped his first cab twice, and got it right the third time. It ain't no fun taking off hide glue, too. That's what I used to use... (PITA)...not anymore.

[594life]

after looking at the job I did, I've decided that there is no way to fix it. I need to start over, and do it right from the start. Would you be able to walk me through the steps some time in the future? Will you have pics to help as well? I'll be patient and wait for you when you work on yours. Thanks again.

[Scumback Speakers]

Originally posted by 594life
after looking at the job I did, I've decided that there is no way to fix it. I need to start over, and do it right from the start. Would you be able to walk me through the steps some time in the future? Will you have pics to help as well? I'll be patient and wait for you when you work on yours. Thanks again. I'm walking everyone through the steps in a few days, or less than a week, whenever the rains stop. I'll probably get started again on Monday afternoon at this rate, weatherman, nature and God willing.

No problem helping you out privately, either. Just click the email button at the bottom if you're needing some advice. I've screwed a few up, and paid the price of impatience, too. Usually, you wind up kicking yourself for it AFTER you see the right way to do it. That's just the way it goes. You'd be surprised what you can fix, you know. I'd take a look at this thread on Fender recovering, if your corners don't have major cuts in them like this, then I can tell you how to fix it. If you have cut it down to the cab, then you're right, it's time to strip it, sand it and start over. Here's a pic to gauge it by... if you're cut shorter than this...you're cooked and starting over.
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/r3.jpg
Here's the whole thread for you to review...
http://www.thegearpage.net/board/showthread.php?s=&threadid=68281&highlight=Tolex+101
And a piping tutoria... which we'll go over again in the 4x12 recover thread...
http://www.thegearpage.net/board/showthread.php?s=&threadid=67441&highlight=Tolex+101

[mike@switchback]

This is awesome, thanks for posting it. I've got a naked large-check cab. I think I'll leave it naked, but after seeing this thread, I may order some metal handles for it. Seems like they would just feel better/more solid when carrying the cab.

[594life]

Do you use one piece or 4 pieces of tolex to cover a marshall style 4x12?

[Scumback Speakers]

Originally posted by 594life
Do you use one piece or 4 pieces of tolex to cover a marshall style 4x12? Four. I overlap them slightly over the piping channels, then cut them down the center of the channel. I also paint the channels black first to allow for any possible "peaking" of the paint around the piping. That's usually not a problem if the piping is cut right, and you're careful. But for tutorial purposess, we'll paint it black in case you cut it off center just slightly.

You could also use a black "Sharpie" to color in the channels instead of flat black paint. Either way works. Here's what your cab should look like before you get started if your tolex is "fubar". When your cab doesn't feel "gooey" any more, and it looks mostly white, you're ready to recover it with tolex.
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/strippedstraightcab1.jpg
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/strippedstraightcab2.jpg
Your channels have to be this clean. No glue, no residue, no nothing.
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/pipingchannel1.jpg
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/pipingchannel2.jpg
You get those channels clean with a small straight tip screwdriver, and a folded piece of sandpaper (60 grit is what I used). Then you're ready to go next week when the weather clears up around here, and I can continue this thread.

[908SSP]

Will these instructions work if I want to recover my 4x12 with suede? I think goes better with my black Vox grill cloth;)

[Scumback Speakers]

Originally posted by 908SSP
Will these instructions work if I want to recover my 4x12 with suede? I think goes better with my black Vox grill cloth;)
LOL. Yeah, probably they will work for you if you're installing suede... but stretching the suede tight might cause some rips...so be careful with it! :D

[Prymo]

I like those slippers... thanks alot for showing us all how to do this.

[Scumback Speakers]

Originally posted by Prymo
I like those slippers... thanks alot for showing us all how to do this. Glad you like them! They're pretty comfortable, suede w/sheepskin lining ($19 at Costco). Great for cold mornings when I'm walking the dog through the fog...like this morning....but I digress.... please check out my latest restoration. I found a 1970 Marshall "beater cab" that had been recovered with the wrong tolex, corners added...etc... I took it back to stock. So I started off with this cab:
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/70b1.jpg
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/70b2.jpg
Then I stripped it, filled it's various blemishes and extra corner holes, and started recovering. If you look further up the thread, I showed this cab with it's piping channels as an example of why you needed them very clean and without extra goop in them. Before:
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/pipingchannel1.jpg
After:
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/70a9.jpg
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/70a8.jpg
Corners:
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/70a4.jpg
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/70a5.jpg
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/70a6.jpg
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/70a7.jpg
Front views:
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics1/70a1.jpg
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/70a2.jpg
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/70a3.jpg
I'll demonstrate how to add in all the caster cups, handles (yep this one came with metal handles) with new T-nuts for anchors and tidy up the front/back corners and back panel tolex. If you look carefully you can see some white edges of the tolex, and white wood in some corners. No problem. We'll get a black "Sharpie" and darken in those very small spots and have ourselves a nicely restored 1970 Basketweave straight cab to load up with some speakers.

I'll also go into details on the corners, but basically you wrap the side pieces FIRST, then the top and bottom pieces. This is where you can make or break your tolex work, so this one I'll go into some detail on. Check in later today or tomorrow, after the sliver piping for the slant cabinet arrives.

[594life]

Would you be able to post a few pics of the step by step corner cutting process?

[594life]

Oh by the way, that cab looks GREAT! I hope I can make mine look half as good as yours!

[Scumback Speakers]

Originally posted by 594life
Would you be able to post a few pics of the step by step corner cutting process? Oh by the way, that cab looks GREAT! I hope I can make mine look half as good as yours!
Thanks for the kudos on the cab. I'll be doing the same thing to the slant cab in a couple of days, and it will all be pretty clear as to how you do it. I'll probably have time to do it on Thursday or Friday. The slant cab still needs to have it's piping channels cut first...then I can complete this with the piping, and all that good stuff.

[Scumback Speakers]

Originally posted by 594life
Would you be able to post a few pics of the step by step corner cutting process? Ok gents, here's how to cut your corners, and not make them look like dog crap...
Let's start off remembering that we had a 20" by 34" piece going up each side. At the top there should be some extra tolex past the point we'll cut it to meet the piping channel (disregard if you have the JCM 800 or 900 cab, no piping generally on those cabs).

So to start this off, let's use something that won't kill us to practice on...like a piece of standard printer paper. Wrap the paper around the corners, then tape it down as shown with about 5 inches hanging off the front (you better have almost that much to wrap around the front edge of the cab, and behind the grill cloth anyway). So let's start here with the paper taped down to the corner:
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/c1.jpg
Then make a cut at the corner of the paper farthest in towards the cab at the 45 degree angle made by the two joints. So cut it with a razor here (keep in mind this is paper, but you'll do this to the tolex, too).
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/c2.jpg
You should have something that looks roughly like this when done cutting. Don't get to freaked out if it's not perfectly at the 45 degree angle, alot of this will be cut off to fit.
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/c3.jpg
Keep the cuts straight, OK?
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/c4.jpg
Then pull down the right side of the cut (the top piece of tolex) and cut as shown up to the inside lip/edge of the cab where the tolex folds over. CUT NO FURTHER THAN THE FRONT EDGE!
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/c5.jpg
Do the same cut for the side piece of tolex.
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/c6.jpg
Pull the side piece in, pull the top piece on top of it, tight, and draw a 45 degree angle line.
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/c7.jpg
With the tolex, it should look something close to this.
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/c8.jpg
If you're going to be manly, you can do it by yourself. Just lay the tolex down, lay a straight edge at a 45 degree angle, press down tight, and cut the TWO PIECES OF TOLEX AT ONCE with the razor knife. If you like, get a friend to hold the straight edge, while you cut the tolex layers.
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/c9.jpg
Since you had the tolex tight, and the cut was through both pieces of tolex, you should now have two perfectly matched "halves" that meet at the right angle, and it should look like this. Before piping is installed pic.
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/c10.jpg
After piping is installed pic.
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/c11.jpg
Do the other three corners the same way, and your cab should look like this cab does.
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/c12.jpg
Go pat yourself on the back, and use some Crazy Glue to finish off the tolex corners where they meet. You might have to make some really small cuts back at the edge of the cab, as the tolex will resist laying flat on the rounded corner. Just make really thin, small cuts and push the tolex together until it meets just like the rest of the "seam" does on the front.
That's about all there is to it.

[big mike]

Awesome Jim!!! Thanks for the tutorial. Now to find an old cab and "Man up" work up the courage to give it a go!

[HeeHaw]

That cab looks straight up badass now!:dude

[Scumback Speakers]

Originally posted by HeeHaw
That cab looks straight up badass now!:dude
Yeah, a far cry from the $212 eBay "beater cab", huh? Total cost?
$212 eBay cab cost
2 yards of black elephant tolex (real Marshall tolex) $18 yd, $36
1 yard of bluesbreaker reissue cloth $30
2 Metal handles (generic) $30
4 Heavy duty casters (not origianal marshall) $16
2 Marshall anti skid plates, $32
18 feet of silver piping $54

Approximately 12 hours of your "free" time.

$380

Compare this to an empty 4x12 cab with the same options from online cab makers, and you're going to save about $200, plus shipping (typically under $100), so you're going to save around $300 overall.

Keep in mind, you can do this even cheaper if you use "generic" tolex, cloth and don't go with the more expensive gold or silver piping (go with white, and you cut your piping cost in half).

But this gets you into a cab for alot less, and it's old wood. More resonant, been vibrated to hell to make the wood lighter, etc. If money is no object, you probably shouldn't bother, just buy a new one. But if you want the old tone, you have to consider getting an old cabinet. There is something to it.

[WinstonN]

What a great thread. Thanks very much.

I plan on building one of these ground up. The corners look butt-jointed and screwed. I always thought they were box jointed.

Question...You may have covered this somwhere, and if you did, just point me to the link: how do you route your piping channels? I tried this once with limited success using the table saw blade, but I don't want to do that again :rolleyes: .

Thanks again for the great how-to threads. wn

[psychodave]

nice work

[Scumback Speakers]

Originally posted by WinstonN
What a great thread. Thanks very much.

I plan on building one of these ground up. The corners look butt-jointed and screwed. I always thought they were box jointed.

Question...You may have covered this somwhere, and if you did, just point me to the link: how do you route your piping channels? I tried this once with limited success using the table saw blade, but I don't want to do that again :rolleyes: .

Thanks again for the great how-to threads. wn You're welcome, WinstonN! Always happy to help out if I can.

Marshall cab corners are finger jointed (at least on mine), and that's how the Scumbag cabs are built as well. Here's an example of what you should see on a finger jointed cab (3/4" 13 ply plywood illustrated here).
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/chrishallcab.jpg
As for the piping channels, you need a router, with an appropriate sized bit. I use a 3/16" bit, but I also use 2/16" piping. Marshall piping is 3/32", so you'd need a bit, just under 3/16" to work with the slightly smaller piping that comes in a Marshall. The Marshall piping channels are usually (IME, and measurements) 1 5/8" in from the sides of the cab. You'll need the channel cut to 2/16" depth (at least), perhaps more if you're using elephant tolex since it's thicker and more durable than levant tolex (standard basketweave style tolex).

The finger joint tool ain't a cheap date...$200 plus. I know, I bought one late last year for my cab guy. But they come out looking damn good, so there you go...

psychodave... thanks for the compliment.

[dave6]

dewd...... your the only scumbag i've ever wanted to say thank you to....

:dude



THANK YOU for posting some of your know how...
people like you keep the world going round.





dave

[Tone]

Man Scumbag, that is some awesome work! If you did'nt show the "before" pics, I would have no idea it used to be a beater. :)

In the pics with the corner cutting instructions, it looks like you have tolex overlapping eachother. How do you get it to all blend in with eachother? Or am I missing something? And how would the tolex be put on if there were no channels routed for the piping around the cab?

Thanks!:dude

[Scumback Speakers]

dave 6, you're welcome, hope you can put the info to good use.

Tone, thanks for the kudos. I've received many compliments on the "seamless" corner look (they're not perfect, but pretty close) of that cab.

Re: Corners
You overlap the tolex on the corners (and hold it down tight) when you cut through both layers of tolex with a fresh sharp razor blade or utility knife. If you can have a friend hold your straightedge for you, then it's even better. Then you trim up anything to make it match up with very small (handheld) razor blade cuts. When I say small, I mean 1/64" thick at a time. Then you use the tolex glue to adher it to the wood (don't paint your wood corners! The glue won't stick to them.), and I use a thin bead of Super Glue where the tolex meets in the corners. If you screw up, break out the black Sharpie and color in your mistakes! The tolex will almost always need a swipe of black sharpie since it has a white side edge after you cut it. The tolex will stretch just a little, so if you cut it short in the corner seam, push the tolex together with your thumbs until it meets and then put on your Super Glue.

If you don't have piping channels, you get to buy ALOT more tolex. That's cuz it goes on in one piece, so you'll need over 120 inches (10 feet plus) of tolex cut to about 19 inches wide by 120 inches. That's four yards of tolex, total, and yes, you'll waste about 1/2 of it even after using the excess for your back panel. The Marshall tolex I buy is 54" wide by however long you order it, so after taking out the long piece for the cab sides, and your own back panel, you'll still have enough for three more back panels. Sorry, that's the way it is.

Your bottom seam on your cab with no piping is also overlapped and then cut through both tolex layers with a sharp knife. The bottom has to have a straightedge since it's 14 inches long, no including the sides. Make sure that bottom tolex is glued down well, and you should consider clamping the straightedge over the tolex to keep it tight when you cut.

Good luck!

[Tone]

Thanks Scumbag!

Do you think you'll ever put up a thread like this on one piece tolexing, for cabs without piping channels around the cab?:D

[Scumback Speakers]

Tone, do you mean a tutorial to build something like this? A TGP member owns this one. http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/DSCN3967.jpg

[Tone]

Yeah that would be great!
That's a really nice cab! What's it modeled after?

[Scumback Speakers]

It's my own 2x12 design with a slanted baffle front, and adjustable back panel to tune the bass response of the cab to the room. The TGP member that ordered it wanted no piping around it, so that took three yards of tolex to do it in one wrap. He then injected it with two Scumback H75's, and he has two more to try out to see which of the four he likes best. I'm an evil enabler, but in a good way! LOL

[Tone]

Sounds great Scumbag! That adjustable back panel sounds really cool. If you ever put up a tutorial on something like this, please let me know. :)

[ampman72]

Great thread! Thanks for the info!

[SkynyrdSurvivor]

Reading this thread takes me way back. Scumbag has done a real good job and covered all the small details to do a first class tolex covering/recovering job.

For those here that are old enough, you may have wondered about those odd looking cabinets Skynyrd used back in '74. The ones with the red and black grill cloth (Ronnie picked that out).

Their gear was looking pretty ratty from several years on the road, most of that time without road cases, and they wanted to clean them up. We had about three weeks between tours to redo about 8 4x12 Marshalls and 4 8x10 SVT cabinets. Back then there wasn't any source we could find for "official" tolex but I had found an auto upholstry fabric shop that had a black tolex type covering that looked real close to Fender tolex. I had used it before and It looked really good. The grill cloth selection was also very limited. The authentic styles you can get today just weren't available unless you had some sort of factory connections. Oh yeah, the corners were a real pain in the butt but we did them about the same way scumbag shows you.

We used these cabinets for about a year until we got the Peavy endorsement.

[Jet Troop]

Bump for pics

[Knucklehead]

Great tutorial! Thanks for taking the time to outline all the steps. I have a Basketweave cabinet, that I'd like to recover and plan to use these step by step instructions to recover and repipe it. Fortunately the grillcloth is 100% and doesn't need replacement. I have a questio that maybe Jim can answer:
Is it absolutely necessary to use the beltsander to remove glue remnants or is there some type of liquid stripper that will thin out the dried glue so it can be wiped off?
Thanks!!

[Scumback Speakers]

Answer: I just bought a Porter Cable 3x21" belt sander two weeks ago as I'm restoring six old metal handle Marshall cabs (that's right, you heard me, SIX!)...the goop remover stuff would cost you more money than the sander belts and you still have to sand off considerable "gunk" that the remover won't fully take off by hand with a sanding block. I know, I've tried. Stripper is also in the same ballpark, unfortunately.

On the other hand 50 grit sandpaper takes no prisoners... you'll still need to have some goop remover for the corners, or channels, plus razor blades, and a lot of elbow grease, too.

[goneracin]

Try wiping it with a rag soaked with laquer thinner. Dont get it dripping wet, just get the glue wet. Let it sit for a minute, and scrape it with a razor blade. The thinner will soften the glue, and let the blade remove it. Just dont soak the wood too much, esp in the corners. You may still have to sand some , but its way less nasty this way.
bob

[Scumback Speakers]

Hey Bob, Merry Xmas... lacquer thinner, eh...fumes a problem? And do you use the big razor blades (4") type, or a putty knife, or what?

[goneracin]

Ive painted a shitload of cars, so the fumes dont bother whats left of my brain... :eek:
I used just an old fashioned razor blade, but a wide blade or a good sharp reasonably thin putty knife would kick ass for the big flatter areas of a 4x12. Ive only done a few head cabs, but I swore I wouldnt do it all with a sander, so I had to find a better way.
Acetone might work as well. Dont use any of the comercial strippers, that shit is non-drying, and will soak into the wood and joints and could cause issues later with loosening the glue in the joints.

[Scumback Speakers]

Acetone, I've got a gallon of that here...I'll try that on one of the cabs I'm recovering... get back to you on how it works... go to sleep, would ya? LOL

[goneracin]

Sleep? WTF is that? :confused:

[Scumback Speakers]

That stuff that we're supposed to do to relax us and rejuvenate our bodies when we're not worried about client orders, where the Fedex/UPS/USPS shipment is, answering emails, gluing, soldering and screwing things together...remember? :) (I realize it's been awhile for you...me, too!) :D

(I'm going downstairs to pack up a bunch of speakers now...)

[Knucklehead]

Jim... Thanks for all the help over the phone. I've got the cabinet, which is the bottom Basketweave completely stripped down to bare wood and all the glue is off. I used some Mineral Sprirts along with a regular razor blade in one of those plastic holders. Seemed to work well. Also found Jim Marshalls signature up in one of the corners.
I'm going to cut the 4 main pieces of Levant today, and practiced folding corners with a piece of paper, like in your tutorial. Have a question: When you do the rear corners, you just trim out the corners with a diagonal 45 degree cut, or it there some other method?
Thanks for the great tutorial!
Robert

[nek]

Anybody know where I could get a "100" to replace in the corner of an older Marshall cabinet?

[lookslikemeband]

AWESOME tutorial... I'll be using this great advice on fixing up an old Mesa...

THANKS!!!

[travis_38]

very cool!!

[dduck]

These tutorials are absolutely fantastic! Hat's off to you brother for taking the time to help everyone!
Unfortunatley, I can't get the tweed tutorial to come up. It says it's an invalid link...or something like that. I know I saw that awhile ago and I thought I had saved it. By any chance, do you still have that, and can it be reposted? I'd like to tweed my Blues Jr and the stacking extension cabinet I made for it.
I read that about the finger joint jig costing a couple hundred bucks. You can also make a poor man's rig. Simpley attach a 6 x 10 in. piece of stock to your miter gage (6 in side up). Clamp it, so you're cutting somewhere near the middle. Now slide your rip fence over and clamp it so you've got it against the end of the stock piece. Now, with a 1/4 inch flat bottom blade (or a dado blade), take a cut through the stock. Now unclamp it, and set a half inch spacer against the rip fence, slide the stock against that and clamp. Basically you want to make two quarter inch cuts exactly 1/2 on center apart (or you can be making 3/8 cuts. 3/4 inch apart, or 1/2 in 1 inch apart..etc). Make your second cut. Now when you go to cut your finger joints, you have a perfect spacing jig. You take a cut, slide it over and stick a quarter inch piece of stock in through the cut you just made into the slit in the jig. Take your next cut and slide it over, and so on....
I hope that I explained that right...lol! I'll post some pics when I get home if you need.

[disaster]

awesome work- very impressive.

did I miss the section on taking off the Marshall logo? can it be done without breaking it?

[Scumback Speakers]

awesome work- very impressive.

did I miss the section on taking off the Marshall logo? can it be done without breaking it?
Easy, you put a flat table serving knife in between the legs/pins that hold it in. Pry up about 1/16" to 1/8" per pin (or leg of the logo), and keep prying up a little at a time until it pops off. This picture shows the pin locations for the logo, the other marks on the logo support wood are the staples Marshall uses to attach it to the baffle board.

http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/cabbaffle1.jpg

[disaster]

Easy, you put a flat table serving knife in between the legs/pins that hold it in. Pry up about 1/16" to 1/8" per pin (or leg of the logo), and keep prying up a little at a time until it pops off. This picture shows the pin locations for the logo, the other marks on the logo support wood are the staples Marshall uses to attach it to the baffle board.



thanks dude. are they even glued in?

[Scumback Speakers]

Nope, the logos are press fit in, gently!

[zeeb]

aw i just got my ply to make a couple of 4x12 from scratch.... is anyway to get the jpegs back on this recover thread? ...unless it just my machine.....

thnx loads in adv.

John ---

[Scumback Speakers]

aw i just got my ply to make a couple of 4x12 from scratch.... is anyway to get the jpegs back on this recover thread? ...unless it just my machine.....

thnx loads in adv.

John ---

The pics are all still there (I just checked), you'll have to wait for them to load, or you'll need to refresh your browser screen, I guess..

[zeeb]

Hi Jim --

...they're all there now. hurray!

I'm piecing this all together slowly - building two 1960B cabs with 1960A cab info - its kinda....hmmm. Not sure if you can help Jim, but I have a few questions - I'd be grateful if you could help with any info;

1) the router & bit spec. for routing the edges of a 1960B 4X12 styled cab -? I believe the radius should be 1" but am not 100% sure. I have seen your pic with an 'L' rule (red cab thread) and it looks to be about 3/4". Also, before I buy my router, I've been told for the larger router bits the base hole may need to be larger to accomodate the larger bit... do you know? I'd be grateful for the info before I buy the wrong spec'd Router! what brand & spec do you use, or recommend? I will probably go with box and cleat join for cab edges.

2) I'm also curious how the baffleboard, speaker cloth & piping all fit together. it looks tricky to get it right from scratch... I'm trying to find someone with a Marshall cab to check this out, but having no joy just yet. I've collected lots of photos and layout/cutting plans but most are for the 1960A styled cab -- think this is slightly different?

again many thnx in Adv, Jim -- the ply is sitting and waiting... gotta get the first cut sizes right!

Cheers,

John.

P.S. I will be posting a build log here and over at the Metroamp speakers & cabs forum ( http://forum.metroamp.com/viewforum.php?f=14 ) -- I have started a 1960B thread - with the above questions at ( http://forum.metroamp.com/viewtopic.php?t=15746 ).

[Scumback Speakers]

You really need to have an empty cab, take it apart and do the measurements, I'm afraid.

As for the roundover bit, I think it's 3/4" not 1".

Piping channels are typically 5/32 or 3/16" (I use 3/16" on mine since it allows more room for the tolex cut down the center. The depth also has to be 1/8 to 3/16", too.

I use a Ryobi router, 3/4 HP motor. I think it's the 1/2 inch model, 3/8" at least. Not sure cuz it's in storage!

Some pics of stripped slant cab here:
http://www.thegearpage.net/board/showthread.php?p=1186568#post1186568

More cab pics here:
http://www.thegearpage.net/board/showthread.php?t=202751

[zeeb]

Hey Jim

Thnx for that --- i'd missed some of those posts/pages. Looks like the order for the front of the RED (mmm) JCM bass cab is;

1) 3/4" Flange/Stringers - the bits that thicken the 'look' of the edges. The side ones look like they'll need to be cut at a slight angle (think its 15')... the white piping gets stapled to this before framing the ;
2) Grille cloth frame and
3) Speaker baffle.

I thought the speaker baffle and grille cloth were all on one piece...maybe they are on some cabs - I might consider doing it like this as the speakers are rear loaded.

....gotcha on the router info and 3/4" / 15mm roundover bit size. there's limited options on routers around here, but looks like the spec of the B&D KW900EKA should do me just fine....double check, etc... trying to decide the best join and router bit to attach top & sides. easiest one - without router table - looks to be a 'locked rabbet drawer joint'(?!) ...learning all sorts of new things. (?!!?)

anyway - thnx again for the info Jim --- hope to post some pix of successful cab making in a few weeks.

Cheers,

John.

[zeeb]

.... ahhh found all the speaker baffle construction info over here;

perfect.

http://forum.metroamp.com/viewtopic.php?t=10010&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

cheers,

J.

[JasonP]

how do I mount the logo's on the cab that the baffle hasn't been drilled out for one? How do you not wreck the grill cloth?
This is a totally awesome thread.

[John Hurtt]

Great read!

[Scumback Speakers]

how do I mount the logo's on the cab that the baffle hasn't been drilled out for one? How do you not wreck the grill cloth?
This is a totally awesome thread.

Use a cardboard template sized to fit your logo, and mark where the legs of the logo go on it. Tape that to your baffle board with masking tape, centered and adjusted. Drill through the cardboard and grill cloth with 5/32" drill, or slightly larger (whatever is closest to the logo's leg diameter) and deep enough for the leg to slide in. Remove cardboard & tape. Gently press in evenly 1/8" at a time until flush to the grill cloth. Sometimes you have to redrill the hole so that the legs fit properly for width/depth. Be patient or you'll snap the legs off the logo.

[JasonP]

So you can just drill right through the grill cloth and it won't cause some strands to become loose or anything?

[Scumback Speakers]

So you can just drill right through the grill cloth and it won't cause some strands to become loose or anything?

Well, I would advise you to hold the cardboard out a bit from the cloth, then guide your drill bit in-between the cloth threads (separate them with a toothpick or needle or something, I just use the drill bit itself) before you drill.

There's the off chance you'll get a twisted thread, but that's why you go SLOW through the cloth at first. I've never pulled a thread and ruined the cloth with this method, and I've used it to attach about 20 or so logos so far.

[JasonP]

thanks!

[Scumback Speakers]

You're welcome and good luck, JasonP.

[drspencer]

Well, let's see. We have to unscrew the baffle board, and take off the old cloth. It's pretty faded, to say the least (fade resistant black, huh? Oh yeah sure! LOL) and it's got ALOT of staples, roughly 40 per side. Get out one of the #1 small straight tip screwdrives and start prying them up. Those cheap computer toolkits have the perfect size for this, and they also fit the really small piping staples exactly, so break out the small straight tip screwdriver, slide it under the old black cloth, center under the staples and start prying them up. Then get out the pliers and pull them the rest of the way out. See ya in about 1/2 hour. Boring work, but... you have no choice.
Man, this cloth is OUTTA HERE, huh? Yuch!
http://southbayampworks.com/412recover101/grillclothfade.jpg
Staples freaking everywhere.
http://southbayampworks.com/412recover101/staples.jpg
How your white, gold or silver piping is cut to go around corners inside. This is the lower lefthand corner (looking from the backside). Notice the cut to the corner thru the piping bead? That's to allow it to bend at the corner and stay flat. Use extra staples here when you reattach it, too. Keeps it in place.
http://southbayampworks.com/412recover101/pipingcut1.jpg
Upper righthand corner (from the rear view) of the piping where it starts and ends (notice there's no cut to round the corner as in the previous pic?)
http://southbayampworks.com/412recover101/pipingcut2.jpg
The tolex should all just peel off with your fingers, or with a little persuasion from a screwdriver or knife blade now. Rip it all off... go ahead, get nuts!
http://southbayampworks.com/412recover101/strippedcab1.jpg
Get the bottom, too. No half assed stuff here!
http://southbayampworks.com/412recover101/cabbottom.jpg
Someone asked how they get the angle on the baffle board for a slant cab. Here's how, take a good look. A precision angle cut I guess.
http://southbayampworks.com/412recover101/bafflesideview.jpg
In the next installment, we'll dowel up the extra holes, and sand the cab smooth with a belt sander, and sanding blocks for the inside corners, etc. We'll get going on this on the weekend. Check back in two or three days for more instructions! Have a good afternoon, OK?
Scumbag

Is this baffle made of plywood or MDF/particle board? It looks like both sandwiched together.

Thanks

[Scumback Speakers]

Is this baffle made of plywood or MDF/particle board? It looks like both sandwiched together.

Thanks

The baffle board is plywood, the MDF is around the edges to raise the cloth. So they are sandwiched together, but the MDF pieces are only an inch or so wide.

[GreaserMatt]

This thread is great! I just bought an old Marshall "mystery" cab that has the older style tolex (pre-elephant style), but has no piping up top. It does come with the inserts on the top for a slant cab & they have the Marshall logo on them (it's a bottom cab). I will post some pics tonight or tomorrow (wife has the digital camera in palm springs right now). It's loaded with G12 Modern Lead 70 Celestions, which I was told were JCM 800 era speakers. Non-orig grillcloth on a maybe non-orig baffle (it looks like a baffle from a slant cab may have been installed in this thing). My plan was to recover the grillcloth with period correct stuff (large checkerboard I believe) & rock the thing, since it's got non-orig drivers in it. From what I've read online, I think this is a 1976 cabinet. Matt

[Roccaforte Amps]

OK, we left off with stripping the cab, and now move to the most enviable task of all... taking off the glue residue. Thrilled, aren't you? (Yeah, me neither...barf!)

My advice is get one of the workbenches you can raise and lower, get two clamps, an electic belt sander of 4" or wider, a hand sanding block, 40 grit & 80 grit sandpaper for the sanding block. Outfit your belt sander with 50 grit, get two belts in case you find that hidden staple, screw, whatever. It happened to me during this..

OK start by getting your workmate bench up to a comfortable height you can reach WITH the cab on top. At 6'2" I had my bench about the height of my upper thighs, then added on the 30" of the cab height and got just around shoulder height. Do what's comfortable for you. Then clamp your cab with diagonally so it won't flex. Or use more if you want, it's up to you.
http://southbayampworks.com/412recover101/cabclamp1.jpg
http://southbayampworks.com/412recover101/cabclamp2.jpg
Make sure your clamps are tight, no deviations. Get out the belt sander. Keep two things in mind right now.
1) 50 Grit sandpaper cuts quick. Do not push in, let the sander's weight be your only force. I'll show you why later...
2) Hold on tight! The 50 grit paper will grip the wood and take off if you're not holding on. Forget the gym today, I did!
Use the belt sander going with the grain (side to side the long way, usually) of the wood. Move quickly, go back and forth. Typical time to do one side with FRESH paper, 2-3 minutes.
Back sides of the cab, you can do with the belt sander the long way only, and very sparingly, it will strip these small width pieces LIKE THAT, and if you hang on too long you have ruts, or rounded edges where you don't want them. We'll fix with wood filler, but it's easier NOT to make that mistake.
After 20 minutes of sanding your cab you should be looking like this on all four sides, but here's the top for reference:
http://southbayampworks.com/412recover101/cabtop1.jpg
Now you get to clean out the back indents. That's where the back panel fits in flush to the back of the cab. You have to get that goop, glue, sawdust, and crap out of there to finish the tolexing. I knew you'd be thrilled. Get a single edged safety razor, the 40 grit sandpaper, and a sanding block. Put the 40 grit in the block. Sand a little of the indent to get it warm, then take the razor and scrape the goop out. Here's the area I'm talking about: http://southbayampworks.com/412recover101/backindent1.jpg
After you get going on it, you'll get a feel for how much sanding you need to do, before it needs to be scraped with the razor. The glue will dry up alot, but still be sticky, but you can still get a nice little ball of crap each time you scrape. Anyway, angle the blade to scrape the goop off, and angle it into corners, press in and scrape those corners out good. When it starts looking like this, you're close. Remember to alternate the sanding block and the razor. Neither does it all, but they do well in tandem.
http://southbayampworks.com/412recover101/backindent2.jpg
This operation should take around 30 minutes to an hour. Depends how diligent you are, and how many beers you've had, right? Stay focused, razors are shop, belt sanders can tear your skin off and screw up your hands, so let's celebrate after we're done, OK?
While you're tired of moving your hands with the sanding block and razor, take the time to brush off your baffle board with a whisk broom or similar, get the dust off, and the lint, then spray paint it FLAT BLACK. Get it looking like this, and you're good to go. The edges where the screws are don't show, so don't waste any extra paint on them, unless you want to.
http://southbayampworks.com/412recover101/cabbaffle1.jpg
OK, when you're done, it should look alot like this. That's right THIS WHITE! All of that black goop was glue. Make sure your back indents, and your inside cab edges are all this clean. We need that area to wrap new tolex around, so if the old glue is there, it won't stick as well. Want your tolex to unroll? Didn't think so. We'll reconvene shortly for new cloth for the 4x12 baffle board. Thinking of BluesBreaker reissue cloth with white piping... whaddya think? Here's the cab before today...
http://southbayampworks.com/412recover101/strippedcab1.jpg
And now...
http://southbayampworks.com/412recover101/cabstripped1.jpg
Check in with you later for the grill cloth installation...









Is that picture that shows bars on the window from Kerry's shop?
It looks like it. That's a lot of work!

[Scumback Speakers]

Doug, nope, all that's around my place. I have heard of, but not met, Kerry Wright (if that's who you're referring to).

[Ge_Fa]

Hi Jim,

great guide, I finally got it after seeing the pictures. Thank you.
Do you, by any chance have some tips on how to do inside corners too?


cheers.

[Scumback Speakers]

Hi Jim,

great guide, I finally got it after seeing the pictures. Thank you.
Do you, by any chance have some tips on how to do inside corners too?


cheers.

Yup. Either a hand sander with 50 grit sandpaper on the bottom AND the side, or the old razor blade scrape, depending on if you have the normal old glue or that ugly black stuff from the 80's to present, which is MUCH harder to get off:

http://southbayampworks.com/412recover101/backindent2.jpg

[Ge_Fa]

Hi Jim,



whooops, my bad, I wasn't clear enough. :jo
Thanks for the pic, my fingers hurt just by watching. ;)
What I meant was, how to apply tolex to a radius like this:

http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/431/radiusbs1.th.jpg (http://img515.imageshack.us/my.php?image=radiusbs1.jpg)


Thank you, cheers.

[Scumback Speakers]

Hi Jim,whooops, my bad, I wasn't clear enough. :jo
Thanks for the pic, my fingers hurt just by watching. ;)
What I meant was, how to apply tolex to a radius like this:
Thank you, cheers.

Ok, pics here:
You have to cut the tolex in the corner, cut it at a 45 degree angle, like this.
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/bp18.jpg

Here's a pic from another angle. Notice how I've cut the trapezoidal pieces that go in the corner? That's so you have them cover the triangle left bare by the cut in the corner. You cut that only deep enough to fit under the point of the triangle left, and only wide enough to cover the bare spot between the other end.
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/bp19.jpg

The you pull back the pieces around the back side (you'll only have one corner to deal with, not four like I did).
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/bp23.jpg

The finished back should look like this. You can see the trapezoidal cut pieces coming over the edge just slightly in this pic.

http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/bp22.jpg

[Ge_Fa]

Hi Jim,

Ok, pics here...[/IMG]

thanks a lot, I'll try this weekend. Should go well with your detailed pics.


cheers.

[B Money]

Dudes, here's a re-tolexing job I just completed. I followed this tutorial to the letter and the results are very good. I've never tolexed anything before so this was a real learning process.

I had been wanting a Marshall 1960B cab, so I watched craigslist for awhile and bought this fixer-upper for $275:
http://www.baconlips.com/images/cabproject/clcab.jpg
honestly, the cab wasn't in too bad of shape. It had some big rips in the tolex and had "exploding boy" spray painted on the back, but it wasn't near death or anything.
So I got to work taking it apart and stripping off the old covering. While I was pulling off the grill cloth I found this little suprise:
http://www.baconlips.com/images/cabproject/412_screw.JPG
a wood screw partially imbedded in the side of the baffle board. So much for legendary Marshall quality :rolleyes:
After all the tolex is removed your left over with a bunch of sticky black glue. Heat gun and power sander took care of that situation:
http://www.baconlips.com/images/cabproject/412stripped_1.JPG
I had a friend of mine route channels in the top and bottom so I could add piping like the old style cabinets. It looks cool, plus you get the added benefit of using multiple pieces of tolex to cover the cab instead of one large piece that wraps all the way around. Much easier to work with.
I also replaced the stock MDF back board with 1/2" thk birch ply
I used "black snake" tolex from Mojo (which you will agree is totally bad ass looking) and also replaced the cracked plastic handles with new metal ones.
After a lot of cutting, glueing, hammer, stapling, etc.. here's how she looks now:
http://www.baconlips.com/images/cabproject/412_1.JPG
http://www.baconlips.com/images/cabproject/412_back.JPG
http://www.baconlips.com/images/cabproject/412_piping.JPG

[crimson on pink]

that looks really nice!!!

[primerib]

wow that cab in the original post was truly "used" in its lifetime. yikes

[Lonely Raven]

Just found this thread. GREAT thread!

B Money, interesting choice on that cab. I really like the black snake!

[GreaserMatt]

Does anyone know if a straight baffle out of a 70's cab in the same dimentions as one from say a 90's cab? I'm looking for a marshall 4x12 straight baffle (for a bottom cab). Thanks in advance, Matt.

[Scumback Speakers]

wow that cab in the original post was truly "used" in its lifetime. yikes
Yep, it sure was. I had to fix a few things on that one! LOL It's solid now, though, although after 3 years plus of shows, travel and demos it's starting to get a little frayed around the bottom corners. Oh well, there's always super glue and a black Sharpie to fill in the nicks and abrasions. :cool:

Does anyone know if a straight baffle out of a 70's cab in the same dimentions as one from say a 90's cab? I'm looking for a marshall 4x12 straight baffle (for a bottom cab). Thanks in advance, Matt.
While they should be the exact same size, the only way to tell for sure is to try the baffle board in the cab.

[GreaserMatt]

B Money, were the plastic recesses on the top of your B cab originally riveted in place? Do/did they have the Marshall logo on them? How about the original handles on the side (did those have the Marshall logo on them)? Thanks in advance... Matt

[Scumback Speakers]

B Money, were the plastic recesses on the top of your B cab originally riveted in place? Do/did they have the Marshall logo on them? How about the original handles on the side (did those have the Marshall logo on them)? Thanks in advance... Matt

IME, the cabs from 74 and earlier had the Marshall logo embossed on the caster cups and handles. They were definitely not there after 75, since I had an original 76 cab at one time and it had generic plastic handles (original, still riveted in place).

I've never seen plastic handles from this era screwed in, just riveted in, as well as the caster cups.

When the piping channels disappeared is about the time the Marshall embossed plastic parts went bye-bye as well.

[B Money]

B Money, were the plastic recesses on the top of your B cab originally riveted in place? Do/did they have the Marshall logo on them? How about the original handles on the side (did those have the Marshall logo on them)? Thanks in advance... Matt


yes, all the plastic was riveted in. No Marshall logo on them, just generic black plastic. The original handles were plastic and did not have any logo either.

I used Scummy's instructions to gently pry up the rivets. I nearly destroyed one of those caster cups before I got the technique perfected

[GreaserMatt]

This thread has really helped me figure out just what I have, as far as the 4x12 straight cab that I bought. No piping, old (smooth) style tolex, Marshall logo caster cups, but plain (non-logo) plastic handles. Non-orig baffle though; someone installed a slant cab baffle in mine at some point. The plan is to replace it w/ a flat baffle & then replace the non-original grillcloth w/ the large check style (period-correct). I just wish it had the orig speakers in it; but for $175 "beggars can't be choosers" LOL. I'll try to post a few pics... Matt

[The Pup]

Wow! What a great thread. Thanks so much.

[Scumback Speakers]

Wow! What a great thread. Thanks so much.
Hey, my pleasure. Hope it helped a bunch of people. From the emails and posts I read here, it seems to have done just that. :banana

[sanrico]

I just have to resurrect this thread. I'm so excited to try this project. I picked up a Marshall JCM 900 cabinet last night for $130 and it desperately needs to be recovered. The tolex is totally stripped off.

I love how that piping looks and have a few questions, if anyone can answer them.

1. I'm still a little wary about the piping channels. I've gone through this thread in detail and still haven't seen any pics of how the channels are cut. Is anyone using a fence to keep the router straight?

2. I know four linear yards of tolex need to be ordered for a 4x12 cabinet without piping, but what about WITH piping? What are the sizes of the five pieces of tolex (top, bottom, sides and back panel)?

3. Anyone else who has done this, please post your pics. That last pic with the snakeskin tolex made me drool. ESPECIALLY if anyone has done this two-tone. I would LOVE to see that.

Thanks all for your help! And Jim, thank you especially for this detailed guide!!

[Scumback Speakers]

Thanks all for your help! And Jim, thank you especially for this detailed guide!!

Piping channel cuts/instruction shown here, on a JCM 900 cab, too! http://www.thegearpage.net/board/showthread.php?p=1186568#post1186568

[mediaguy]

Great thread.............but have a few questions.

I have a 24 year old slant cab that I want to recover and I thought this would be easy since I have a background in fabric upholstery. But I'm lost on one part. There obviousloy has to be a seam somewhere and I don't see one. I don't have any piping on the top, just the 2 large bevels where the head sits.

I didn't see anything in this thread that pertains to this style. How do I lay this out without seeing any seams?????

Thanx!

[cram]

I'm bummed.. I thought there was a *NEW* build from southbay!!!

:)

All good.

[Loop-Master]

Thanks for that info Jim!

[Scumback Speakers]

Great thread.............but have a few questions.

I have a 24 year old slant cab that I want to recover and I thought this would be easy since I have a background in fabric upholstery. But I'm lost on one part. There obviousloy has to be a seam somewhere and I don't see one. I don't have any piping on the top, just the 2 large bevels where the head sits.

I didn't see anything in this thread that pertains to this style. How do I lay this out without seeing any seams?????

Thanx!

You have to get a real long piece of tolex, as in 4 yards of it, do the usual glue thing I show in the tutorial. Then you wrap it around the cab, and cut the seam at the bottom in a corner. You overlap the two ends of tolex very tightly, hold it down, and using a brand new razor blade, cut through both pieces at the same time, then push both pieces of tolex together to fit.

I'm bummed.. I thought there was a *NEW* build from southbay!!!

:) All good.

New cab offerings here: http://www.scumbackspeakers.com/cabinets.html

Thanks for that info Jim!

You are welcome, sir!

[mediaguy]

You have to get a real long piece of tolex, as in 4 yards of it, do the usual glue thing I show in the tutorial. Then you wrap it around the cab, and cut the seam at the bottom in a corner. You overlap the two ends of tolex very tightly, hold it down, and using a brand new razor blade, cut through both pieces at the same time, then push both pieces of tolex together to fit.






That's what I thought put all the info I found kept talking about the 4 pieces so thought I was missing something. Thanx!
May be a bit before I get started on this but will post when I get it done.

Thanx for the info!

[Gosub10]

Jim-

Awesome info in this thread -- so far the authority on cab covering when searching via Google. Thanks again for the detailed responses.

Quick question about corners. Working on a custom 2x12 right now, 3/4" pine with rounded over edges. I've tested a couple of corners on a test mule of the same material, and I can't get the corners to lay flat over the rounded-over edge. After making the cuts, the two edges form a raised point at the apex of the curve at the deepest point of the cut. In order to get the edges to follow the curve of the corner and butt exactly together when pressed down, it really looks like I'd have to cut out extra material from the V -- in effect tracing out a C. Not sure if I'm explaining this correctly! How do you get the corners to lay flat? Do you snip off the apex of the point?

Thanks!

[Scumback Speakers]

Going to depend if you want seams that are at a 45 degree angle from the corner. If so, you wind up cutting out a C shaped piece as you've suspected. I cut the top piece at a 45 degree from the corner, then shave the lower piece to fit. Takes some trimming to get it right, several thin cuts, usually.

http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/412-strt-corner-detail.jpg

However, if you do it Fender style, with the tolex cut on top of the cab's edge, then you cut it at the edge corner, and join them together, as in this picture at the bottom.

http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/Capt_Crunch.jpg

[ronmail65]

Call me lazy.... but this thread has convinced me that I will NEVER do this. For all the expense and time of refinishing a cabinet, I would glady buy a high quality, new, pristeen cabinet.

Maybe if I was into woodworking or furniture building / repair it might be a nice project, but I just don't see it...

[passedout]

i love this thread. it gave me the confidence to start my own refurb:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2802/4101028438_b86b719649.jpg

i sanded all the glue off today, ordering the grill cloth and new marshall logo this weekend.

[Scumback Speakers]

Call me lazy.... but this thread has convinced me that I will NEVER do this. For all the expense and time of refinishing a cabinet, I would glady buy a high quality, new, pristeen cabinet.

Maybe if I was into woodworking or furniture building / repair it might be a nice project, but I just don't see it...

i love this thread. it gave me the confidence to start my own refurb:

:rotflmao Heh heh...sometimes they're easy. Most times they're not, it just depends on how much wood filling you have to do for dings and nicks, and how gunky the glue is.

[Travst]

Call me lazy.... but this thread has convinced me that I will NEVER do this. For all the expense and time of refinishing a cabinet, I would glady buy a high quality, new, pristeen cabinet.

Maybe if I was into woodworking or furniture building / repair it might be a nice project, but I just don't see it...

You make a good point. Tolex work isn't my favorite thing either, but I do it in the context of restoration. It's kind of like taking the old undercoating off my vintage cars with a heatgun and scraper. At times it's unpleasant, but it's part of the job... and done well, the finished product looks great.

I think this thread probably provides an appreciation factor for the guys who do this for a living. Jim, this is a HUGE contribution to the knowledge base.

[Scumback Speakers]

I think this thread probably provides an appreciation factor for the guys who do this for a living. Jim, this is a HUGE contribution to the knowledge base.

Thanks very much, Travst. When I had more time, this was fun. But the last 3 cabs were real bears to get right, lots of dent &*ding fills, waiting, and just tying up a bunch of space while I was doing it. And with the cab & speaker sales really taking off, I just don't have the spare time I used to.

Now, I think I'm going to put a damper on this. I've got 2 more cabs in storage, but then I'm probably hanging up my tolex glue and just doing custom cabs from here on out.

Hopefully this helps a bunch of you to restore an old cab, if you can find one.

[Gosub10]

Going to depend if you want seams that are at a 45 degree angle from the corner. If so, you wind up cutting out a C shaped piece as you've suspected. I cut the top piece at a 45 degree from the corner, then shave the lower piece to fit. Takes some trimming to get it right, several thin cuts, usually.

So: Lay the straight edge at 45 degrees, cut through both top and bottom tolex pieces, masking tape the top piece in position temporarily as a guide, trim the bottom piece until it butts up correctly, then glue the whole thing down? I see some more test corners in my future!

If you're doing this in any kind of quantity, would some kind of traceable template make sense or are there too many slight variations from build to build?

[dewman]

awesome thread...giving those old cabs an extreme makeover is great Jim.

[ronmail65]

You make a good point. Tolex work isn't my favorite thing either, but I do it in the context of restoration. It's kind of like taking the old undercoating off my vintage cars with a heatgun and scraper. At times it's unpleasant, but it's part of the job... and done well, the finished product looks great.

I think this thread probably provides an appreciation factor for the guys who do this for a living. Jim, this is a HUGE contribution to the knowledge base.

Don't get me wrong -- I'm not criticizing the process, or the fact that you guys do this. You enjoy it, it's rewarding, and this thread is highly informative. Personally, I just don't have the patience, skills or tools for this kind of job. I respect that you guys possess these qualities and I'm glad that you're sharing your knowledge!

[Dr. Tweedbucket]

Excellent thread !!! Thanks Jim for posting the step by step and instructions! I'd like to try this myself !


I had the same idea a few years back and had this one made out of a JCM800 cab. The handles are fakes, but you can't tell unless you look inside :) >

http://i50.tinypic.com/142ys1.jpg

http://i45.tinypic.com/awxt07.jpg

Sounds GREAT and was easy on the wallet !



I guess most of this would apply to recoving a headshell as well. The only tricky part as I see it is getting the corners cut right .... if they are not covered with corners, it's pretty critical to the end result.

[Scumback Speakers]

So: Lay the straight edge at 45 degrees, cut through both top and bottom tolex pieces, masking tape the top piece in position temporarily as a guide, trim the bottom piece until it butts up correctly, then glue the whole thing down? I see some more test corners in my future!

If you're doing this in any kind of quantity, would some kind of traceable template make sense or are there too many slight variations from build to build?

Basically that's the technique. I tried a template, but when you're restoring cabs you find that there were differences in the roundness of the corners after filling dents/dings, etc so I wound up just doing it by hand. PITA, but generally if you take your time and make really thin cuts you can get it dialed in.

As anything else, taking your time and being patient is a virtue here. Using the right tolex glue that doesn't stretch or shrink the vinyl tolex is also paramount to having it look good years later.

[Gosub10]

Basically that's the technique. I tried a template, but when you're restoring cabs you find that there were differences in the roundness of the corners after filling dents/dings, etc so I wound up just doing it by hand. PITA, but generally if you take your time and make really thin cuts you can get it dialed in.

I spent several hours on this yesterday and got a little bit of a system going that's highly repeatable. Basically, when you cut the pieces at 45 degrees with the knife, you'll also score the wood beneath. That mark then becomes the guide to which you trim back the two pieces. You can do this to each piece separately, pressing them down with a thumb and trimming off any excess that overshoots the line. These are tiny cuts but they're easy to do because there's no guesswork. When the two sides are then pressed down and glued, they butt up perfectly flat over the rounded edge, along the line of the original cut. Nice!

[Scumback Speakers]

Glad to hear you got that worked out. As many reading this thread are now realizing "over the course of several hours..." doing the restoration of an old cab, or even covering a new one can be tougher than one thinks to produce a professional result.

I know I've f**ked up my share of cabs and then recovered them because of it.

[Gosub10]

Totally -- big time commitment and major focus to produce good results, and even then, the last of the eight corners I did was noticeably better than the first. :) Props to you guys who do this for a living, and thanks again for the detailed play-by-play!

Using the right tolex glue that doesn't stretch or shrink the vinyl tolex is also paramount to having it look good years later.

I just re-scanned the thread, but I may have missed this. What glue do you use again?

Thanks!

[lakehaus]

Thanks to this thread (and Jim's basketweave cloth tutorial), I was able to recover an early 70's B cab. I practiced the techniques on mock corners, then a smaller cab (setting on top the cab below), then finally to the B cab.

Thanks Jim - I truly appreciate all the hard work and skill that go into this profession! It was fun -

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh172/tidalsurge/Marshall/DSC_0060.jpg
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh172/tidalsurge/Marshall/MarshallCabs/IMG_1515.jpg

[Scumback Speakers]

Totally -- big time commitment and major focus to produce good results, and even then, the last of the eight corners I did was noticeably better than the first. :) Props to you guys who do this for a living, and thanks again for the detailed play-by-play!I just re-scanned the thread, but I may have missed this. What glue do you use again? Thanks!
www.tubesandmore.com, look under grillcloth/tolex, FS-316, IIRC. $19.95 per quart.
Thanks to this thread (and Jim's basketweave cloth tutorial), I was able to recover an early 70's B cab. I practiced the techniques on mock corners, then a smaller cab (setting on top the cab below), then finally to the B cab.

Thanks Jim - I truly appreciate all the hard work and skill that go into this profession! It was fun -

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh172/tidalsurge/Marshall/DSC_0060.jpg
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh172/tidalsurge/Marshall/MarshallCabs/IMG_1515.jpg

Nice work, you've got the wrong speakers in there, but nice work anyway. :rotflmao

(J/K.. had to take a cheap shot at you with those Heritages in the cab! LOL) ;)

[Ayrton]

Because of Jim and his most excellent thread, I was able to turn this...

(wrong color, and bad job all around)

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc123/ayrton252001/DSC_0001-8.jpg

Stripped...

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc123/ayrton252001/DSC_0001-9.jpg

Sanded and cleaned.

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc123/ayrton252001/009.jpg

Correct color, piping, and ready to go.

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc123/ayrton252001/DSC_0001-7.jpg

Back in action...

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc123/ayrton252001/DSC_0001-10.jpg

[Travst]

Excellent job, Chris!

[passedout]

bringing this thread back to post my success:

started with:
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4063/4220503380_5ef18c3500.jpg


stripped it down and took the whole thing apart:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2802/4101028438_b86b719649.jpg


new grill, new marshall logo, green glossy paint:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2751/4219745533_dd61db8ba7.jpg

[155]

Im about to do one of these, but damn its alot of work! nice job boyz!

[Travst]

Before (Those things up top are carpet protectors like you'd put under a couch... NO idea what that's about):
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3279/4035302289_d5fe8d056c.jpg

After:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2591/4200339067_90dc33ab0e.jpg

[Ayrton]

My latest...

Before

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc123/ayrton252001/p1_uqogfzwux_so.jpg

After

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc123/ayrton252001/logo.jpg

[dick wiewy]

Chris, Nice job on your resto! One question, where does one buy those "100" [hundies]?
That's a very nice touch only I never see them in the catalogs. TIA,

DW.

[Ayrton]

The 100 logo is a genuine Marshall part.

You can find them on ebay from time to time, or just order them here.

http://www.partsisparts.net/products/1518/Marshall-Badge-100-Watt.htm

or here

http://www.tubesandmore.com/

Search for part # S-M604

[dspblues]

Wow, great thread. Maybe TGP needs a "DIY" section for stuff like this.:aok

[Dickie Fredericks]

I did my JCM900 Combo maybe a year after this thread first appeared. I used the techniques described here to the best of my ability and I think it turned out pretty nice.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e114/winerymusic/DickiesMarshall012.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e114/winerymusic/DickiesMarshall010.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e114/winerymusic/DickiesMarshall009.jpg

Now I have a 4 x 12 Im getting ready to do and I was planning on doing the piping channels. Is it possible to use plastic corners on the cab if I happen to screw up the tolex on the corners?

Im a little nervous about covering the thing myself but Im pretty handy and the 900 came out very nice so...

[Dickie Fredericks]

I vote to make this a sticky in the forum here.

[Megadave]

This is a fantastic tutorial thank you very much, I'm recovering all our 5 4x12 cabs in the band and this has cleared alot of things up for me, especially how to handle the corners.
I've never done it before so it should be fun... I hope, I'll try and document my progres

One question I would like to ask could anyone suggest a suitable glue for the tolex, I was looking at a few of the evostick products which I have used before on various things, but have never used them with Tolex before.

Once again Top Tutorial :wave

[Scumback Speakers]

S-F316 (http://www.tubesandmore.com/scripts/foxweb.dll/moreinfo@d:/dfs/elevclients/cemirror/ELEVATOR.FXP?item=S-F316)
2009 Catalog
page 98
http://www.tubesandmore.com/cemirror/inv/S-F316-TH.GIF (http://www.tubesandmore.com/scripts/foxweb.dll/moreinfo@d:/dfs/elevclients/cemirror/ELEVATOR.FXP?item=S-F316)

TOLEX GLUE, 1 QUART

Brush-on adhesive ideal for applying tolex. Cleans up with soap and water. No nasty solvents required. Does not stretch or shrink the vinyl. Quart.

Please click on image for application directions.

Antique Electronic Supply $19.95 per quart (good for 2-3 4x12's)

S-F316G (http://www.tubesandmore.com/scripts/foxweb.dll/moreinfo@d:/dfs/elevclients/cemirror/ELEVATOR.FXP?item=S-F316G)
2009 Catalog
page 98
http://www.tubesandmore.com/cemirror/inv/S-F316G-TH.GIF (http://www.tubesandmore.com/scripts/foxweb.dll/moreinfo@d:/dfs/elevclients/cemirror/ELEVATOR.FXP?item=S-F316G)

TOLEX GLUE, 1 GALLON

Brush-on adhesive ideal for applying tolex. Cleans up with soap and water. No nasty solvents required. Does not stretch or shrink the vinyl. One gallon.

Please click on image for application directions.

$53.95 for a gallon good for a bunch 'o cabs!

[dspblues]

Jim,
If I'm looking for a good & beat up Marshall 4x12 cab on Craigslist... what models should I look for? I don't know much about these cabs. :(

Any help you, or anyone else, can provide would be appreciated.

[Scumback Speakers]

Jim,
If I'm looking for a good & beat up Marshall 4x12 cab on Craigslist... what models should I look for? I don't know much about these cabs. :(

Any help you, or anyone else, can provide would be appreciated.

What do you want, slant or straight?

1960BX is the straight cab, IIRC. It has the piping channels.

1960AX is the slant version.

Really old JCM 800 cabs can be found for less money. They have less particle board in them, too. JCM 900's, you'll want to be careful, they had more PB than 800 models.

[Megadave]

S-F316 (http://www.tubesandmore.com/scripts/foxweb.dll/moreinfo@d:/dfs/elevclients/cemirror/ELEVATOR.FXP?item=S-F316)
2009 Catalog
page 98
http://www.tubesandmore.com/cemirror/inv/S-F316-TH.GIF (http://www.tubesandmore.com/scripts/foxweb.dll/moreinfo@d:/dfs/elevclients/cemirror/ELEVATOR.FXP?item=S-F316)

TOLEX GLUE, 1 QUART

Brush-on adhesive ideal for applying tolex. Cleans up with soap and water. No nasty solvents required. Does not stretch or shrink the vinyl. Quart.

Please click on image for application directions.

Antique Electronic Supply $19.95 per quart (good for 2-3 4x12's)

S-F316G (http://www.tubesandmore.com/scripts/foxweb.dll/moreinfo@d:/dfs/elevclients/cemirror/ELEVATOR.FXP?item=S-F316G)
2009 Catalog
page 98
http://www.tubesandmore.com/cemirror/inv/S-F316G-TH.GIF (http://www.tubesandmore.com/scripts/foxweb.dll/moreinfo@d:/dfs/elevclients/cemirror/ELEVATOR.FXP?item=S-F316G)

TOLEX GLUE, 1 GALLON

Brush-on adhesive ideal for applying tolex. Cleans up with soap and water. No nasty solvents required. Does not stretch or shrink the vinyl. One gallon.

Please click on image for application directions.

$53.95 for a gallon good for a bunch 'o cabs!


Ha Ha thanks, never thought there was an actual Tolex glue :facepalm guess I should Google more. Will have a look and see if I can find the equivelent over here in the UK.

Thanks again

[tiptone]

What do you want, slant or straight?

1960BX is the straight cab, IIRC. It has the piping channels.

1960AX is the slant version.

Really old JCM 800 cabs can be found for less money. They have less particle board in them, too. JCM 900's, you'll want to be careful, they had more PB than 800 models.

I bought a beat up, used JCM900 cabinet last summer that I hope to recover this summer with the help of Jim's tutorial here. The only thing PB on it is/was the back panel. Is this unusual? I've never seen inside any others that I can recall.

[Scumback Speakers]

I bought a beat up, used JCM900 cabinet last summer that I hope to recover this summer with the help of Jim's tutorial here. The only thing PB on it is/was the back panel. Is this unusual? I've never seen inside any others that I can recall.
They have 5/8" PB on the front of the baffle board to raise the cloth, which is also what is between the baffle board and the cab. This creates a PB layer between the baltic birch baffle and cab. The logo mounting pieces are PB, and I believe the back panel rails (what the back panel mounts to) are PB as well. At least they were on the JCM 900 cab I bought 18 months ago...still waiting for me to totally strip it and restore it.

[tiptone]

You're right Jim, I just took a flashlight to it and there's definitely PB between the cloth and the baffle. I didn't remove the baffle/cloth when I got it, just stuck a set of speakers in it. From the bad things I had heard I was expecting the whole thing to be full of PB but the construction appeared to be mostly birch ply.

On a side note a buddy has one of the Marshall VM heads and matching 4x12 and that cab has to be all PB/MDF. It feels like it weighs near twice what mine does.

Thanks again for the tutorial and info Jim, you're always spot-on.

[boardwlk17]

the corners are the worst there's no way around it just rip them off and get new one's nice looking cabs. i did my marshall head and combo. it's good to save the old tolex and use it as a templete
http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m465/boardwlk17/DSCN14732.jpg
http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m465/boardwlk17/DSCN14772.jpg

[aburkhart]

What a great thread! I am going to recover my cab using this info.

I started removing the hardware and noticed that there is some water damage in small sections of the cab frame where the first layer or two of the ply have seperated. Also on the raised boundary of the front baffle where some sections are completely seperated (not the speaker baffle itself, just the raised rim - which is ply). What is the best way to deal with this issue?

For the cab frame, I was thinking just to glue the loose layers with standard wood glue and clamp it until it dries. But for the rim - maybe replacing the bad sections with new ply? These appear to be fastened by long staples.

Also, I was trying to figure out when this cab was built. I bought the History of Marshall book, but it doesn't go into great detail about when cab stuff changed. I'm hoping there is newer info available now since that book was written. Here are the details of my Marshall 4x12 slant cab:

Black levant covering with gold piping on top and bottom.
Speaker grill cloth seems unusual for this model - it is the light straw (as detailed in the History of Marshall book - used on the Club and Country models) in black, this may have been painted at one time - hard to tell. The grill cloth staples appear original - copper colored - with about 30 per side.
Marshall embossed plastic handles.
Gold piping around the speaker baffle.
Logo is missing but the mounting holes suggest the smaller logo (6 or 9"?)
This has the corners all the way around, and casters.
Has skid plate detents but the plates are gone.
Back panel is MDF with small hole speaker jack, also has four staples for the name plate, but the plate is gone.
Celestion G12M speakers may not be the original ones - date codes are Jan, April & Sept of 1971, plus 1 from July 1969.

I'm thinking this cab is definitely from the early 70's, possibly '71 as the speakers indicate, but would ask those in the know amongst you for help.

I bought this (well used, of course) in early 1990's for $200 and love it! It's time to make it beautiful again.

[shibby]

my retolex + re-grill project. 1st attempt. I'm really happy with how everything turned out. took over 20+ hours to do. heh

stock:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v220/inkwachemis/DSC00341.jpg


finished:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v220/inkwachemis/DSC00876.jpg

better?

[sinner]

Call me lazy.... but this thread has convinced me that I will NEVER do this. For all the expense and time of refinishing a cabinet, I would glady buy a high quality, new, pristeen cabinet.

Maybe if I was into woodworking or furniture building / repair it might be a nice project, but I just don't see it...

Or have one of these brave guys (above) do it for you (for a price of course)!

I may have to write Jim and see if he does offer this service, my 1968 Basketweave is really rough looking. I touched it up with a Felt Marker after giving it a little haircut here and there were the tolex was sticking out. Looks a little better now so I am undecided if I should re-tolex:

http://images.lilypix.com/albums/userpics/10028/normal_Marshall_Wall_020.jpg

http://images.lilypix.com/albums/userpics/10028/normal_Marshall_Wall_014.jpg

Before the Felt Marker touch-up and haircut:

http://images.lilypix.com/albums/userpics/10028/normal_Marshall_Wall_003.jpg

I also added a new Logo, but the holes don't quite line up with the new logo and it looks a little crooked. I soaked the new plastic in coffee overnight but didn't really yellow it any. I held a lite piece of incense near it and it got a little smokey yellow. It did look pretty cool without the Logo though, the Marshall outline (shadow) is there.

[EVHindenberg]

Anyone know of anybody in the New York City vincinity doing recovers? I need to get my Splawn straight cab redone.

[Megadave]

Well I finally finished my 2 cab restoration the other week.
And they turned out awesome thanks to the help and tutorial
on this site, so thank you very much for taking the time to post
all the pictures etc, I couldn't have done it half as good if not
for this site :)

I've left the back cover in orig condition as they were once owned
and toured by UK thrash band XENTRIX back in the day, and it still
has part of the logo on.
everything but the piping is new.....shiney :)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v661/DirtbagDarrell/IMG_3330.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v661/DirtbagDarrell/IMG_3331.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v661/DirtbagDarrell/IMG_3384.jpg

[Zonkers]

I just got a 1986 Peavey Minx 110, I am seriously considering a re-tolex of this amp. It's ripped, and the corners are dented and chipped. Not sure if I am going to go with the original black or an oxblood or tan. Thanks for this thread!

[Scumback Speakers]

My congratulations to those of you who have recovered your cabs and made them look good again with help from some of my threads. :bonk

[crunchfactory]

Jim,
Great, great, great thread. I have 4 cabs I'm about to recover (2 a's, 2 b's) - lots of this stuff (corners, trays, etc...) is riveted in place; while getting the rivets out is easy enough, how do I reattach corners, etc...? dowel or filler the holes and screw them in?

[Scumback Speakers]

Fill the rivet holes and screw in appropriate sized screws, #6, maybe #4 depending on how deep you want them to sit. You'll want oval head screws.

[DavePilk74]

I was wandering if anyone could give me a real idiots guide to doing the corners, front and back. I hate to put all this work into the cabinet and fall at the final hurdle. :cry:

Ive red page 3 of this thread a million times and Im sure Im missing something. I always end up with dimples in the corners, heres some pics I took:

http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb444/DavePilk74/Corner2.jpg

http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb444/DavePilk74/Corner1.jpg

Ive come to the conclusion the method shown only works with a perfectly square corner, not a rounded edge like the front of a Marshall.

A friend of mine reckons you need to heat the tolex and stretch it? is this right?

[Scumback Speakers]

No, you need to cut the tolex back on the line you've already got going a bit further. Do one side first (likely the top), get it straight (45 degree angle) to the corner, but you have to cut it back till it lays flat. If you look closely at this pic, I've cut it back farther than you have in your pics.

http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/70a5.jpg

Then you can tape it down, lay the other piece of the tolex on top and cut to match the piece on top and you get a pretty seamless joint.

You'll need to be careful of course, and have a sharp blade.

You can also cut back to where it lays flat, fold both pieces of tolex over and make one cut through both pieces at once.

You have to make sure you don't cut any farther than the inside lip for both pieces as they'll make another angle from there to lay flat on the inside of the front lip.

[DavePilk74]

Thanks for replying. Ive had a few more practise runs at this taking your advice on board. I can get a really good join on the flat part at the front face of the cab but then where the wood starts to curve is still proving problematic for me. I just cant get the tolex to lie flat and tight on that area.

You can see from this pic I took what I mean:

http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb444/DavePilk74/Corner3.jpg

The tolex is up a few mm off the wood at the curve, and if you push it/glue it down it causes folds in the tolex.

Am I pulling at the wrong angles or something? For the top part Ive been pulling vertically straight down, for the side part perfectly horizontally across.

[Scumback Speakers]

Post #35 explains it.

"You might have to make some really small cuts back at the edge of the cab, as the tolex will resist laying flat on the rounded corner. Just make really thin, small cuts and push the tolex together until it meets just like the rest of the "seam" does on the front."

[DavePilk74]

do you mean small cuts at 90 degrees to the seam? eg if the seam is vertical, I should make really small horizontal cuts?

or do you mean small thin cuts along the edges of the seam as if to shave a bit off along the sides?

sorry for the annoying questions but I need to get this right. the help is appreciated very much.

[JZWest]

No, you need to cut the tolex back on the line you've already got going a bit further. Do one side first (likely the top), get it straight (45 degree angle) to the corner, but you have to cut it back till it lays flat. If you look closely at this pic, I've cut it back farther than you have in your pics.

http://southbayampworks.com/412recover101/70a5.jpg

Then you can tape it down, lay the other piece of the tolex on top and cut to match the piece on top and you get a pretty seamless joint.

You'll need to be careful of course, and have a sharp blade.

You can also cut back to where it lays flat, fold both pieces of tolex over and make one cut through both pieces at once.

You have to make sure you don't cut any farther than the inside lip for both pieces as they'll make another angle from there to lay flat on the inside of the front lip.

geez that's a beautiful corner! where do you get the gold piping?

[Scumback Speakers]

do you mean small cuts at 90 degrees to the seam? eg if the seam is vertical, I should make really small horizontal cuts?

or do you mean small thin cuts along the edges of the seam as if to shave a bit off along the sides?

sorry for the annoying questions but I need to get this right. the help is appreciated very much.

Ok, I thought this was obvious but maybe not.

You have to join the two pieces of tolex together. First you have to make your 45 degree angle cut from the where the cab rounds off to the corner of the front edge of the cab (where the tolex goes around the lip).

When you pull that tolex down you'll have an overlap of tolex layers (top & bottom). Cut only one layer to 45 degrees (decide whether it's the top or bottom, I usually go with the top) and get it straight. You'll wind up making a few VERY THIN cuts along the 45 degree angle since the tolex is being pulled over a corner, it will need to be shaved to the angle. That's why you'll make really thin (1/64") cuts so you don't cut off too much.

Once you get one layer done, super glue it down so it stays in one place.

Then pull up the bottom layer of tolex to overlap it.

You can eyeball the cuts to the bottom layer, or you can lay down some masking tape on the tolex itself, then cut it to match.

With enough patience you can get the corners to match up.

No one said this was easy, in fact sometimes you'll just want to :barf

[Scumback Speakers]

geez that's a beautiful corner! where do you get the gold piping?

www.tubesandmore.com

[DavePilk74]

Ok, I thought this was obvious but maybe not.

You have to join the two pieces of tolex together. First you have to make your 45 degree angle cut from the where the cab rounds off to the corner of the front edge of the cab (where the tolex goes around the lip).

When you pull that tolex down you'll have an overlap of tolex layers (top & bottom). Cut only one layer to 45 degrees (decide whether it's the top or bottom, I usually go with the top) and get it straight. You'll wind up making a few VERY THIN cuts along the 45 degree angle since the tolex is being pulled over a corner, it will need to be shaved to the angle. That's why you'll make really thin (1/64") cuts so you don't cut off too much.

Once you get one layer done, super glue it down so it stays in one place.

Then pull up the bottom layer of tolex to overlap it.

You can eyeball the cuts to the bottom layer, or you can lay down some masking tape on the tolex itself, then cut it to match.

With enough patience you can get the corners to match up.

No one said this was easy, in fact sometimes you'll just want to :barf

OK thanks for explaining in more detail, that is a bit different to what Ive been doing.

I told you I needed an idiots guide! ;)

Definitely not easy, but I guess it gets easier after you've mastered it and got a few recovering jobs under your belt. I bet the guys at Marshall slap that tolex on in seconds.

[Dave_C]

Really interesting, Jim! Thanks for taking the time to share this. This is so far beyond my handyman knowledge and capabilities, I am left speechless!

:omg

[Scumback Speakers]

OK thanks for explaining in more detail, that is a bit different to what Ive been doing.

I told you I needed an idiots guide! ;)

Definitely not easy, but I guess it gets easier after you've mastered it and got a few recovering jobs under your belt. I bet the guys at Marshall slap that tolex on in seconds.

After you do 40 plus restorations it's easier. LOL The first few were meh...ok, but not stellar. The corners are the hardest part, too, stretching cloth tight is also a bitch by hand, cloth puller tools make that easier.

Good luck!

[Lemmycat]

After you do 40 plus restorations it's easier. LOL The first few were meh...ok, but not stellar. The corners are the hardest part, too, stretching cloth tight is also a bitch by hand, cloth puller tools make that easier.

Good luck!


After you do 40 plus restorations it's easier. LOL The first few were meh...ok, but not stellar. The corners are the hardest part, too, stretching cloth tight is also a bitch by hand, cloth puller tools make that easier.

Good luck!


Hey Jim, great thread! I wish I had found it two weekends ago when I started my restoration on and old 1982A! I figure out how I should have done some things by making some mistakes along the way. I'm actually surprised how many things I did by intuition that were similar to what you do in your process.

As many have mentioned, the corners were the hardest and got the better of me. After reading this thread I had the same questions DavePilk74 posted of whether the 'small cuts' needed to be parallel or perpendicular to the 45 degree angle. When I did my corner I had actually tried it the way you describe and still got puckers where the tolex bunched up at the top of the curved face. Now in reading this thread I'm thinking a) I didn't cut the tolex back far enough and b) super glue would have been a great idea to hold down that rascally tolex around the the curved face.


I ended up cutting out the puckers since my plan included installing new corner caps which will hide my boo-boos. craptastic! :barf
(see pics below)



A few build notes that might help others:

1) LOOSE FINGER JOINTS - My cab was so beat up the finger joints on the corners were loose and missing some chunks. I watered down some wood glue and painted it into the seams of the finger joints, clamped and let it dry overnight. That helped. The cab is pretty rock solid now. Then I gave it the wood putty treatment all over and sanded smooth.

2) GLUE REMOVAL - I also used "3M tar, wax and adhesive remover" to soften up the glue and scrape with a razor in the interior lips, and a power orbital sander to get the glue of the flat areas. the 3M evaporates and leaves no residue so worked pretty well, but doesn't work well enough to avoid sanding/scraping.

2) FULL WRAP TOLEX - I did the full wrap method with no piping channels. I wasn't sure where to put the seam so I put it on one of the bottom corners to the seam would line up wiith one of the bottom 45 deg cuts. Sharpie on the seam to hide those little show-throughs.

3) CONTACT CEMENT (ALTERNATIVE TO TOLEX GLUE) - I used "Dap brand Non-flammable Contact Cement" (from home depot) for my tolex recover and it seemed to work pretty well and is less expensive. It may be a bit less forgiving with overlapping tolex to make the cuts then pulling off to remove the cut pieces underneath, but it seemed to go OK. I wouldn't want to pull off and relay tolex more than one or two times with it. This is the fist cab so I can't comment on long-term durability yet.

4) DON'T DO THIS -CORNERS- I botched the corner cuts by making a full 45 deg cut that did NOT stop at the inside lip as Jim instructs... I ended up having to put a fixer piece in the corners but they are not noticeable unless your right up on it. (this forum post instructions are great for how to do this correctly and would have been a god-send if I had only found and read it first. ha!) hideous pics below

5) RETRO FIT METAL HANDLES - the handle holes on the JCM 800 1982A were a bit too narrow and short for the metal handles from mojotone.com so i had to cut out the handle holes a bit wider and longer for the metal retro-fit handles. I used low-tack painters tape to protect the tolex and used a jig saw to widen the openings. Worked great!

6) PIPING JOINT FOR BAFFLE PIPING - I used a small toothpick section inside the hole in the piping to help line up the joint where the two ends of the piping meet. This worked pretty well to keep the seam nice an neat after cutting and stapling the piping. pics below

7.) FRAYING NYLON SPEAKER CLOTH - This may be over-kill but I didn't like how the speaker cloth (nylon) was fraying on the edges so I did some careful melting of the edges with my MAP torch to seal the edges after stapling and trimming the excess. If you try it, don't put the torch directly on the cloth, just get it "near" the cloth and that will be enough to melt the edge.

My Bad Corners:

http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd474/Lemmycat10/IMG_0366.jpg


http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd474/Lemmycat10/IMG_0365.jpg





TOOTHPICK TRICK:

http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd474/Lemmycat10/IMG_0356.jpg


AFTER TOOTHPICK:

http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd474/Lemmycat10/IMG_0357.jpg





In Progress:

http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd474/Lemmycat10/IMG_0360.jpg


Once I finish this slant cab I'll be on the hunt for another old cab to try my hand at corners again and maybe do a cap-less look.

-Paul / Lemmycat

[DavePilk74]

Im still practising my corners, but I think my main problem is I wasnt stretching the tolex. You cant just push the tolex down and expect it to stick, you will just get folds all over the place.

You need to kind of stretch it at a slight angle so the tolex is flat against the wood on the corner.

At least this is what Im doing now and Im having much better results.

[Lemmycat]

Im still practising my corners, but I think my main problem is I wasnt stretching the tolex. You cant just push the tolex down and expect it to stick, you will just get folds all over the place.

You need to kind of stretch it at a slight angle so the tolex is flat against the wood on the corner.

At least this is what Im doing now and Im having much better results.

Ah.. I think I was making the same mistake!! I'll remember that next time.

I finished my cabinet rebuild.
- I used brass screws and fasteners to class it up a bit instead of using the standard brass hammer-in rivets.
- I used the same metal handles as are in Jim's picks.
- and for the marshall logo i cleaned up the original plastic logo and then cut out an expanded shape of the logo from a brass-plated door kickplate to mount behind the plastic logo... so the logo has about a 3/16" brass edge behind the letters

Pictures below. These were taken with my iphone camera. I need to take some better pics with my camera and post.


http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd474/Lemmycat10/IMG_0426.jpg (http://s1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd474/Lemmycat10/?action=view&current=IMG_0429.jpg)


http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd474/Lemmycat10/IMG_0421.jpg (http://s1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd474/Lemmycat10/?action=view&current=IMG_0429.jpg)

http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd474/Lemmycat10/IMG_0429.jpg
(http://s1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd474/Lemmycat10/?action=view&current=IMG_0429.jpg)

[munizfire]

hey guys, i was wondering if this kind of vinyl would work? I have looked for tolex kind of vinyl, but no luck, and buying online, the shipping is gonna kill me xD

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/225884_10150166502402493_502687492_7134291_8260443 _n.jpg

thanks

[Lemmycat]

hey guys, i was wondering if this kind of vinyl would work? I have looked for tolex kind of vinyl, but no luck, and buying online, the shipping is gonna kill me xD



Hmm. that looks like a vinyl with the fleece-like backing typically used for table-cloths. I wouldn't think that would work very well. They tend to be less durable and also the adhesive would be sticking to the fleece, so there would be minimal adhesive bond to the vinyl itself, if any. Tolex isn't cheap, for sure, so if you decide to try it, I'd suggested doing a test piece with the adhesive onto some scrap plywood before doing a whole cabinet.

I've sometimes seen vinyl without the fleece backing in fabric stores in the upholstery section, so you might be able to find a happy medium.

Good luck with your project.

[Ron1]

All,

Great thread but I have one question. Maybe I missed this in the thread and if I did, I apologize.

I want to install new plastic corners on a cab that does not have any, no existing holes. The cab is made of birch plywood. I will be using the standard Marshall gold rivets with the slot in them.

I was planning on pressing the corners in place and getting them in position then marking the hole location and drilling a pilot hole just slightly smaller than the rivet. I do not want to split the wood or destroy the brass rivets when they are hammered in using a plastic head hammer.

Dos this sound like the right way to do it. Should the hole be just smaller than the rivet, same size or half the size?

Any advise would be appreciated. I am very handy but do not want to screw this cab up...I will only have one shot at it.

Thanks,

Ron

[Lemmycat]

Ron1,

I hope I'm not too late with this info. For the standard hammer-in split rivet you would not want to pre-drill. The rivet is designed to sink into the wood and spread out a bit as it's hammered. Drilling holes would actually weken the area that the rivet is biting into.

That's said, I prefer using brass screws (#6 3/4") for the corner pieces. Those you can pre-drill and make the hole the same or slightly smaller than the screw shaft minus the threads.

Good luck

[Ayrton]

Another one knocked out...

Before

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc123/ayrton252001/Marshall%20cab%20rebuilds/DSC_0010.jpg

After

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc123/ayrton252001/Marshall%20cab%20rebuilds/DSC_0001-10.jpg

Jim's awesome handles!

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc123/ayrton252001/Marshall%20cab%20rebuilds/DSC_0002-8.jpg

[Scumback Speakers]

Great restoration Chris! :drool

[Ayrton]

...and again

My orange superlead needed a matching cab. :D

Before

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc123/ayrton252001/Marshall%20cab%20rebuilds/DSC02181.jpg

After

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc123/ayrton252001/Marshall%20cab%20rebuilds/DSC_0002-7-1.jpg

[Scumback Speakers]

...and again

My orange superlead needed a matching cab. :D

After

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc123/ayrton252001/Marshall%20cab%20rebuilds/DSC_0002-7-1.jpg

Gorgeous work, sir!

[frank62]

Ayrton, that is some stunning work!

[mc_deli]

Thread of the... millennium!

This tread has given me the strength to attack my Selmer and Vox combination. They are vintage and need some love. And we have a new studio in need of some pretty toys.

I just got most of the stuff for the refurb from ural-tone.fi and tube-town.de - candy apple tolex... I'll show the rest later. So far everything is stripped ready for sanding and a few holes need to be filled and a few new ones made.

The Vox has a few special challenges - the micro piping goes laterally around the cab unlike Marshalls. And the little wooden inside corners by the grille cloth - some are broken but a friend suggested plastic (e.g. yoghurt pots) make much easy, quicker and neater corners - hidden by the Tolex of course, than trying to file down some exact matches...

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee372/mcdeli/Picture1.png
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee372/mcdeli/04VoxlateralpipingdifferentfromMarshallstyle.jpg
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee372/mcdeli/06TheVoxwithGreenbackstweeterswitchlightandRoxy.jp g

[dbishopbliss]

I've been searching through the posts on this thread and I cannot find a detailed explanation of how to apply the tolex glue. I know I should apply the glue to the cabinet and tolex so it can set up for a bit.

However, should I apply the glue to the rounded over part of the cabinet front? Seems like it would stick immediately when attempting to cut the corners so I'm thinking that I shouldn't apply glue there. If that is the case, then how do I get the tolex to stick to the rounded over part?

I hope I get an answer soon, I have a prepped cabinet waiting and the tolex is cut!!!

[Scumback Speakers]

I use a 3" wide paint roller with the tolex glue. I apply a thin coat to the tolex, then another to the cab wood, including the front lip and underneath. I make sure I cut the tolex long, say 1-3" to position it without having to get it perfect (then you cut off the excess). You let the glue flash off (dry) for 20-30 minutes before joining them together.

The piping route to piping route piece on top I cut a little long (sideways) so I can cut off the excess in the piping channel. The side pieces that go over the corners (where you cut them in to meet at a 45 degree angle) should not be precut.

[shibby]

I've been searching through the posts on this thread and I cannot find a detailed explanation of how to apply the tolex glue. I know I should apply the glue to the cabinet and tolex so it can set up for a bit.

However, should I apply the glue to the rounded over part of the cabinet front? Seems like it would stick immediately when attempting to cut the corners so I'm thinking that I shouldn't apply glue there. If that is the case, then how do I get the tolex to stick to the rounded over part?

I hope I get an answer soon, I have a prepped cabinet waiting and the tolex is cut!!!

i used something like this, worked great:

http://www.hardwarestore.com/media/product/264135_front500.jpg

[redddog]

Hey guys.

Is there any adhesive out there that you would recommend that you could get locally? Say at Lowes or Home Despot?

Also, If I'm doing a Head (24x10x10)and Cab (24x20x10) how much tolex would I need?

Thanks so much! You guys are true craftsmen!

[dbishopbliss]

I was wondering the same thing the other day and found this on another site:

Just go to your local hardware store and pick up a quart of all purpose flooring adhesive. Just make sure it’s the solvent free (latex) type. This stuff is easy to work with -it’ll give you plenty of working time in case you have to reposition the tolex, and once it sets up it sticks like crazy. Plus it cleans up easily with a damp cloth as long as you clean up when it’s still wet, once it starts to set up you’ll have to use mineral spirits.
...
There is a glue made expressly made for tolex, but after trying it I came to the conclusion that it’s basically nothing more than latex contact adhesive repackaged as tolex adhesive.I have not tried it yet, but I will for the next cabinet I make.

[mc_deli]

I is back - and I have hopefully learned how to Photobucket and make images smaller... this time.

Over the last few months I have finished my Selmer Treble 'n' Bass 50 / Vox 2x12 70's refurb. Here are the tell tale pics and a few learnings...

#1 Clamps, clamping wood, a Dremel and an ice cream scoop - all essential
#2 Never inform your better half that you have sprayed tolex glue on the sofa and walls

- Big holes measured and cut for the flush handles - Dremel mini drill awesome help here
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee372/mcdeli/Next/01.jpg

- Claw bolt things in the base for the wheel bolts
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee372/mcdeli/Next/02.jpg

- All tidy - endless sanding and de-gluing - Dremel again really handy for sanding in pipe channels and hard corners - and insides painted
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee372/mcdeli/Next/03.jpg

...more...

[mc_deli]

...Photofu**it... OK smaller coming up...

[mc_deli]

- Had to cut some new back panels - and also some holes for IEC and Speakon connectors
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee372/mcdeli/Next/04.jpg

- And the head needed lots of filling and some blown framing replaced
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee372/mcdeli/Next/05.jpg

- After an age the pair ready for tolex
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee372/mcdeli/Next/06.jpg

- But first - vintage gold from Tube Town!
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee372/mcdeli/Next/07.jpg

[mc_deli]

...photofu**it re-size failure it seems... any advice?

[mc_deli]

- On the back I got a plate for the speaker for the speakon and switch (for the tweeter)
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee372/mcdeli/Next/08.jpg

- The DIY store served up some gold grill for the back of the head
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee372/mcdeli/Next/10.jpg

[mc_deli]

- Tolexing was really hard going
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee372/mcdeli/Next/11.jpg

- I used a lot of masking tape and didn't just lay over the piping channels - I cut the tolex to overlap the channels in separate pieces - took a long time. The tolex was easy to work with. I was very careful cutting the channels. Any small errors were easy to hide with superglue. I started butting the corners but ended up overlapping them as they still looked really neat. I didn't wrap the whole box but used a separate piece on the underside - I had a large overlap and this was tricky to glue down
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee372/mcdeli/Next/12.jpg

- The big cream piping on the front was easy enough but the replacement gold piping for the cab was too big so I used the original. But it was really hard work to work back in - the best tool I found was an ice cream scoop ;)
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee372/mcdeli/Next/13.jpg

[mc_deli]

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee372/mcdeli/Next/14.jpg

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee372/mcdeli/Next/15.jpg

The head was a really tight fit. I had to put the board back in with the knobs off - a real saga. The new corners overlapped the retaining screws though the top of the head - so I was a bit creative with hiding them - I used the same gold decorative washers everywhere and you can't see that I had to use half washers for the retainers. New chicken heads, corners, handle, as well as the handles, wheels (2 with brakes).

Just had a mic shootout and it stood up well to a bunch of vintage Fenders. And it... well... it certainly stood out! Thanks for the thread and the tips.

[mc_deli]

...and fixed the pics! Yes! Victory!

[drewl]

I liked them better before.

One of these I'll get around to retolexing a Sound City cab I found in the trash.
It looks okay, but I want to do it in purple to match a purple marshall clone I built.
I already had to build the front grill I did in the brown wheat to match the purple.

[mc_deli]

I liked them better before.

thanks!:bonk

purple.

are you sure?

[alvagoldbook]

This is an amazing thread, but it's unfortunate that the tutorial pictures early in the thread are no longer viewable. I'd love to retolex some of my amps, but I'm lost on how to do the piping.

[1moreknob]

Does anyone ave any experience changing the grille cloth on a blues breaker type cab? I have a roccaforte 2x12 that I am going to change the cloth on again. (1st attempt is kinda loose) I Had a hell of a time getting it straight and tight at the top, as the top of the baffle has tolex, with piping seperating the joint with the cloth. The top of cloth is held by a piece of wood that you apply the cloth to, then staple onto the baffle board.
Anyone with some experience, your advice would be appreciated

[ScottR]

Does anyone ave any experience changing the grille cloth on a blues breaker type cab? I have a roccaforte 2x12 that I am going to change the cloth on again. (1st attempt is kinda loose) I Had a hell of a time getting it straight and tight at the top, as the top of the baffle has tolex, with piping seperating the joint with the cloth. The top of cloth is held by a piece of wood that you apply the cloth to, then staple onto the baffle board.
Anyone with some experience, your advice would be appreciated

if your cloth is loose, you can shrink it. It involves wetting and heat drying the cloth...make sure you dont wet the speakers though :)

[1moreknob]

if your cloth is loose, you can shrink it. It involves wetting and heat drying the cloth...make sure you dont wet the speakers though :)


Thanks! It needs to come off because it's not quite straight either, so shrinking wont get me the results I want. I have a new piece of Basket weave on its way. I think the second time will be the charm.............

[Curtd1]

This thread is just what I'm looking for in guidance on my Marshall recover project. Is there any way to restore the pictures that went along with the great tutorial? I know the thread is old but what a treasure.......
Thanks,
-Curt
:munch

[ski_fast]

If you are already reclothing use this:
http://www.bluesbreaker-pinstripe.com/index.htm

Marshall just bought 300 sheets at $300 a sheet for a new line they have coming out.

[DavePilk74]

I was wandering if anyone had any tips for doing the angle part on an angle cab. I always end up with creases here, the pic below doesnt show it very well, but they are there. Marshall always seem to get this perfect but how do they do it? Ive seen some people cut the tolex here, but I dont want to do that. :huh

http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb444/DavePilk74/Creases.jpg

[solitaire]

I was wandering if anyone had any tips for doing the angle part on an angle cab. I always end up with creases here, the pic below doesnt show it very well, but they are there. Marshall always seem to get this perfect but how do they do it? Ive seen some people cut the tolex here, but I dont want to do that. :huh

http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb444/DavePilk74/Creases.jpg
Your only other option is streching the Tolex slightly.

[Scumback Speakers]

Ive seen some people cut the tolex here, but I dont want to do that. :huh

http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb444/DavePilk74/Creases.jpg

You actually can do it both ways, BUT you don't stretch the tolex, you shrink it with a heat gun (hair dryer, etc), or you cut it. Personally cutting it is the way I do it for two reasons.

1) You can cut the tolex, lay one side on top of the other, then cut through both layers with a sharp razor blade and create a seam that's very hard to see if you cut it straight/right..

2) When you cut it this way it allows for adjustment if there's a problem or issue with the wood underneath.

When you use the heat you can burn the tolex/shrink it too much and make it thin enough so it splits later.

Solitaire, if you're going to post on this thread, try to have real world experience with what you're posting on before you do so...especially if it's a thread I've started, OK? I realize you're trying to help, but you could have steered this TGP member the wrong way and screwed up his cab.

[BillB1960]

Is there any way that the pictures from the beginning of the thread which were hosted on the southbay ampworks site could be re-posted from another domain?

[Scumback Speakers]

Is there any way that the pictures from the beginning of the thread which were hosted on the southbay ampworks site could be re-posted from another domain?

They could when I have the time. Due to a rather large sales volume increase, I'm already working 7 am to 7 pm straight through just to keep up with incoming orders. That doesn't leave a lot of time to repost pics on old threads, and do all the editing/checking to make sure they work. I'm not sure when I'll have time to get to it, to be quite honest. Sorry.

[BillB1960]

They could when I have the time. Due to a rather large sales volume increase, I'm already working 7 am to 7 pm straight through just to keep up with incoming orders. That doesn't leave a lot of time to repost pics on old threads, and do all the editing/checking to make sure they work. I'm not sure when I'll have time to get to it, to be quite honest. Sorry.

Fair enough, appreciate the honesty. Increased sales is a good problem to have!;)

[DavePilk74]

Thanks for the help guys, I thought it might involve heating it with a hair dryer. I want to avoid cutting it there if possible. Im aiming for period correctness/marshall correctness.

I had thought I was stretching it too much and that was causing the creases. I dont normally heat it, but will try it in future.

[StoneAge Cabs]

I have to agree w/Jim...cutting it would be the way to go. Using heat and/or stretching, if not done correctly, may result a botched job. I have seen M cabs (slant) with the cut from the factory.

[Curtd1]

Just wondering.......

Did anyone save the pics for this tutorial?

I've printed out all of these expertly guided instructions that the original guy created, but I could really use the pics if they're available somewhere. I have 2 Marshall head and 2 stacks I want to recover with Tolex and have seen some other projects that were done using these same instructions & techniques and the results were amazing!

I'm ready to start my project and have already purchased all of the parts and Tolex I need to do the work. I've studied the process through the reading part, but man the pics would make it all come together!

Thanks in advance for any assistance!
Curt......

[cheetah77]

I could use the pics as well.

[BEMUSofNrthAmrca]

We need the pictures back up in this thread. This is the best retolex tutorial on the net and now the pictures are gone. SHHEEEEESH. GET THEM UP.

[BEMUSofNrthAmrca]

This whole thread should be archived.

[Scumback Speakers]

I have restored the pics in this thread as of 4/24/12. Enjoy!

[prs1999]

Thanks Jim...mucho appreciated !!!

[Curtd1]

EXCELLENT job restoring the pics!

Thank you sir, for your help!

I've been able to find most of the replacement cabinet parts I need, but does anyone know where I can get replacement cabinet handles, speakers, jacks and wire that is like the Marshall type?

Thanks in advance for the assistance!
Curt....

[Scumback Speakers]

EXCELLENT job restoring the pics!

Thank you sir, for your help!

I've been able to find most of the replacement cabinet parts I need, but does anyone know where I can get replacement cabinet handles, speakers, jacks and wire that is like the Marshall type?

Thanks in advance for the assistance!
Curt....

You are welcome. I have some of the cab parts you're looking for as well (vintage/vintage repro spec), shoot me an email with a list of what you're looking for.

[lakehaus]

EXCELLENT job restoring the pics!

Thank you sir, for your help!

I've been able to find most of the replacement cabinet parts I need, but does anyone know where I can get replacement cabinet handles, speakers, jacks and wire that is like the Marshall type?

Thanks in advance for the assistance!
Curt....

I used Jim's tutorial on several Marshall cabs, most recently here on my JCM800 A cab recover (that's a Metro JTM45 clone on top). I mod'd the old cab a little (gold string top/bottom, choice of grille cloth, and 1970 G12M's). I got the handles you see here from Jim. Most excellent repros. The cab that I got the Greenbacks from had metal handles, but too beat for my resto - Jim's are exactly like the originals in that cab.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh172/tidalsurge/Amps/Marshall/JCM800%20A%20Cab/DSC_0003.jpg

[Curtd1]

Lakehaus,
This is an incredible restoration!
Beautiful work......

[Curtd1]

Jim,
What's the e-mail address I use to contact you directly?
Thx,
Curt....

[v-verb]

I have restored the pics in this thread as of 4/24/12. Enjoy!

Thanks Jim!! Great thread!

[Scumback Speakers]

Jim,
What's the e-mail address I use to contact you directly?
Thx,
Curt....
In my sig sir, but since you missed it: sales@scumbackspeakers.com

[lakehaus]

Lakehaus,
This is an incredible restoration!
Beautiful work......

Thanks! I left the bling for the backside. And I thank Jim for giving me the courage and confidence to get started on tolex work!

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh172/tidalsurge/Amps/Marshall/JCM800%20A%20Cab/UnionJackBack.jpg

[Curtd1]

WoW!
Absoulutely amazing work.......
Very nice!

[Daveiow]

First of all high to everyone.. I recently purchased a 1970's 2x12 Tall cab model number 2041 i believe, and after reading this thread i think i will recover it and add new grill cloth. i contacted Marshall UK and they have some of the original large check grill cloth, and will also get some Tolex from them. Only questions i have are should i keep it original or change colour of tolex and use diffrent cloth?
Any ideas or advise would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. http://img594.imageshack.us/img594/7342/p1110320.jpghttp://img705.imageshack.us/img705/5484/p1110317p.jpghttp://img232.imageshack.us/img232/4017/p1110319i.jpg

[edwardsforest]

Hi all. Just wondering... what types of wood are used for these supports/stoppers for the back panel? I have read of people using poplar, birch... Is it the same for the front?

anyone? Thanks!

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j306/bturner4shortys/supporst.jpg

[Scumback Speakers]

Pine or poplar is fine.

[edwardsforest]

Couple questions about pine.

Pine seems a bit soft to support the baffle and back board? Has anyone had issues with this?

[Scumback Speakers]

Couple questions about pine.

Pine seems a bit soft to support the baffle and back board? Has anyone had issues with this?

It's hard enough for support if you don't go nuts when tightening your baffle or back panel screws, otherwise you'll strip it.

[edwardsforest]

Sorry to keep reviving this thread (although it is a badass thread and should stay alive!)
For mounting handles.. what are people using screw wise with standard 3/4" birch? I see a lot of machine screws? Pre-drilling for this?

[t.hendrix]

First of all high to everyone.. I recently purchased a 1970's 2x12 Tall cab model number 2041 i believe, and after reading this thread i think i will recover it and add new grill cloth. i contacted Marshall UK and they have some of the original large check grill cloth, and will also get some Tolex from them. Only questions i have are should i keep it original or change colour of tolex and use diffrent cloth?
Any ideas or advise would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. http://img594.imageshack.us/img594/7342/p1110320.jpghttp://img705.imageshack.us/img705/5484/p1110317p.jpghttp://img232.imageshack.us/img232/4017/p1110319i.jpg

I love this cab!!! How does it sound??

[DavePilk74]

First of all high to everyone.. I recently purchased a 1970's 2x12 Tall cab model number 2041 i believe, and after reading this thread i think i will recover it and add new grill cloth. i contacted Marshall UK and they have some of the original large check grill cloth, and will also get some Tolex from them. Only questions i have are should i keep it original or change colour of tolex and use diffrent cloth?
Any ideas or advise would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. http://img594.imageshack.us/img594/7342/p1110320.jpghttp://img705.imageshack.us/img705/5484/p1110317p.jpghttp://img232.imageshack.us/img232/4017/p1110319i.jpg

Where are peoples morals? I cannot believe you want to recover this cab. DONT DO IT!!!

There is hardly a mark on the tolex. I would say that is in remarkable condition for its age. but if you want to ruin a piece of Marshall history and a really collectable piece of gear then go ahead...

Swap the grill material maybe, but I would leave it at that.

[Scumback Speakers]

Sorry to keep reviving this thread (although it is a badass thread and should stay alive!)
For mounting handles.. what are people using screw wise with standard 3/4" birch? I see a lot of machine screws? Pre-drilling for this?

10/32 x 3/4" machine screws with matching 10/32 T-nuts (use the 7/16" barrel if you can) for the handles. Use the handle bolt holes as your template for drilling the cab sides. 1/4" drill for the T-nut hole.

[redddog]

Where are peoples morals? I cannot believe you want to recover this cab. DONT DO IT!!!

There is hardly a mark on the tolex. I would say that is in remarkable condition for its age. but if you want to ruin a piece of Marshall history and a really collectable piece of gear then go ahead...

Swap the grill material maybe, but I would leave it at that.

Well I don't know if it's a issue with morals but I agree. Leave that mofo alone! It's beautiful.

[redddog]

Hey Jim.

I'm about to start a Vox ac30 cc tolex job. I turned an ac30 cc1 1x12 combo into a head/cab config. Has to have exposed corners. I've done a few tolex jobs before but not with exposed corners and I'm nervous. Real nervous.

You've contibuted so much to this thread and your work is awsome. I was wondering if, the next time you do a cab with exposed corners, you might have someone hold up a cell phone to take a short video of it? I THINK I know what you're saying but a video would be a huge help. It would also, apparently, be the only such video in existence. It seems as if exposed corner cabs have become a lost art. Virtually every video or tutorial (outside of this thread) completely breezes through the corner part.

Just if it's no extra work for you and, in the course of your regular day, it wouldn't be a PITA for you, a short video detailing the exposed corner would make you the KING of exposed corner tolexing.

Now that's big.

[v-verb]

Where are peoples morals? I cannot believe you want to recover this cab. DONT DO IT!!!

There is hardly a mark on the tolex. I would say that is in remarkable condition for its age. but if you want to ruin a piece of Marshall history and a really collectable piece of gear then go ahead...

Swap the grill material maybe, but I would leave it at that.

Agreed leave the tolex alone. Even the grill is not that bad!

[redddog]

You're welcome, WinstonN! Always happy to help out if I can.

Marshall cab corners are finger jointed (at least on mine), and that's how the Scumbag cabs are built as well. Here's an example of what you should see on a finger jointed cab (3/4" 13 ply plywood illustrated here).
http://scumbackspeakers.com/tutpics/chrishallcab.jpg
As for the piping channels, you need a router, with an appropriate sized bit. I use a 3/16" bit, but I also use 2/16" piping. Marshall piping is 3/32", so you'd need a bit, just under 3/16" to work with the slightly smaller piping that comes in a Marshall. The Marshall piping channels are usually (IME, and measurements) 1 5/8" in from the sides of the cab. You'll need the channel cut to 2/16" depth (at least), perhaps more if you're using elephant tolex since it's thicker and more durable than levant tolex (standard basketweave style tolex).

The finger joint tool ain't a cheap date...$200 plus. I know, I bought one late last year for my cab guy. But they come out looking damn good, so there you go...

psychodave... thanks for the compliment.

Any tips on how to tolex the top-plate cutout on a cab like this?

[Drak]

Any tips on how to tolex the top-plate cutout on a cab like this?

Look at the pics shown at the top of Page 7, it's done the same way as a back panel cutout is done.

[Oatie]

First of all high to everyone.. I recently purchased a 1970's 2x12 Tall cab model number 2041 i believe, and after reading this thread i think i will recover it and add new grill cloth. i contacted Marshall UK and they have some of the original large check grill cloth, and will also get some Tolex from them. Only questions i have are should i keep it original or change colour of tolex and use diffrent cloth?
Any ideas or advise would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. http://img594.imageshack.us/img594/7342/p1110320.jpghttp://img705.imageshack.us/img705/5484/p1110317p.jpghttp://img232.imageshack.us/img232/4017/p1110319i.jpg


Davie,

I would just replace the cloth with the original stuff from Marshall.
The Tolex is just fine, it can be cleaned a bit, but it's in good shape.
Most old cabs have a few battle-scars. Does the cab have the original gold casters?

[Sly]

Hi everyone,

I recovered my JCM800 Marshall with a new grill cloth and it wasn’t so difficult .
To removed the staples buy a good heavy duty staple remover (it cost 5-10 $) it will save you lots of time, i begin with a knife and it was long but when i bough a staple remover it take 5 minutes and the staple were removed.

I have bought my grill cloth online in Canada here for 25 $ here :
http://www.steamcomusic.com/catalog/...-black-jute-36


Take your time buy a good hand held stapler, begin in a corner of one side, do the other corner.



Stretch it a as much as you can than do it on the other side, finish with the top and the bottom always begin with the corner then when the grill cloth is done on 2 all 4 corners do all the staples between the corners.

It should take you about 45-60 minutes if you take your time to do it properly (and like myself you never do that before).

I’m really happy with the result as it looks like a brand new.
I didn’t changed the tolex as i covered it with a permanent marker and it did a good job. I cleaned it with armor all and it work like a charm, let it work for 4-5 minutes then clean it and all the dust will removed form the tolex.



Anyway in the end you will just have to solder the 2 speaker wires and it will work good.

And you will feel like you have a new Marshall !

Keep on Rockin !

Sly

[Oatie]

Where are peoples morals? I cannot believe you want to recover this cab. DONT DO IT!!!

There is hardly a mark on the tolex. I would say that is in remarkable condition for its age. but if you want to ruin a piece of Marshall history and a really collectable piece of gear then go ahead...

Swap the grill material maybe, but I would leave it at that.


_______________

I agree, don't recover this cab. The Tolex is the 1973 era greenish tint type, and it's one of the first ported cabs Marshall made. It's a rare cab, if anything I would replace the cloth, but thats it. If it was mine I would leave the cloth as-is, do you have the back panel for it?