Best way to string an electric (how do you thread your tuners)?

[clay49]

Been stringing my electrics the same way for 3 decades now, not paying much attention to other methods...but I think I am causing some of my own intonation problems by slipping strings:bonk!!!

How do you fasten or thread your strings through traditional/vintage maching heads (NOT LOCKING TUNERS...I don't own a guitar with locking tuners)?

Feel free to post pics or diagrams, or links to sites that give "how to" tutorials.

Maybe you can teach an old dog new tricks :aok!!!

[XXTwighlight]

I was the same way;Just randomly stringing with no particular technique.
I've been playing 28 years and just recently over the last year started using this technique and it works great!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zGLMy6DbpBc

[scottlr]

I just make sure I have at least 3 eight wraps going down the post. I have never used any of the locking techniques. I finally found most of my tuning problems were due to the nut binding. A bit of graphite, and no more problems.

Note: Watching the vid, that is exactly how I do them.

[XKnight]

I was the same way;Just randomly stringing with no particular technique.
I've been playing 28 years and just recently over the last year started using this technique and it works great!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zGLMy6DbpBc

+1 That's the method I've been using for my LPs and it works great.

[arthur rotfeld]

Strings can slip. I do a double kink, like in that video. I often go a step further and pass the tag end underneath, though that's probably overkill.

A lot of what gets passed off as "my guitar doesn't stay in tune" is related to not putting strings on right and even more often, not stretching them.

[MickyZ]

I essentially use the same method as Bill Baker. I avoid any kind of "locking" method, or anything that doubles the string back on itself.

[walterw]

i used the locking method taught to me as a youngling forever (skip to 3:50)...
W67t0Ieu9f4 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W67t0Ieu9f4&feature=related)
but eventually decided to test and find the best way for myself.

i could install the locking version really fast and it always held, even with very few wraps; the problem was in removing the string, as it's more stubborn and takes longer to get them off. also, i didn't like the idea of those extra sharp bends on fat wound strings.

i tried the "one wrap over, then the rest under" method, but it seemed to be less stable tuning-wise (more room to shift and settle, due to the gap between windings.)

i finally determined that three or so wraps right down the post with no "tricks" was perfectly stable and made for easier removal.

the method in the other video is basically what i do (figure about "3 fingers" past the key to put the bend in it, then wind it on up).

the only difference is rather than trying to put a sharp bend in there with my thumbnail, then threading the thing through the post, i slip the string through the post first; i pull it straight, gauge my 3 fingers past the post, grab and hold the string at that point then slide the grabbed spot back to the post.

then, it's a simple motion to bend the string against the post to make the "Z" bend and wind it up.

also, never use your nice flush-cut end nippers to cut strings like that guy does! use real wire cutters, and save the flush-cuts for your fretwork.

[walterw]

oh, and however you do it, cut them bitches all the way short!

there's nothing to be gained by having a bunch of half-inch needles sticking up out of your headstock.

[theruley]

that video was awesome. Now I think I am going to get me some new strings tomorrow :D

[hank57]

Time restring...

[92lowrider]

+1 That's the method I've been using for my LPs and it works great.


++1......Best Restring Video!!!!!:aok

[lakehaus]

Portable reference

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh172/tidalsurge/Lock-Wrap.jpg

[bluesjuke]

I use the above method on my Martin but with the string cut to the length of going to the nest furthest tuner.

On all of my Gibsons I just loop the first wrap over the top of the string end poking through then take the remaining wraps underneath it.
I find the pressure above and below the string end is sufficient to keep it from slipping.

[Adam Spencer]

If this is about your PRS:

http://www.prsguitars.com/csc/tuners.html

Seems to be the same method as suggested by lakehaus.

[Totally Bored]

http://www.fenderforum.com/userphotos/photo.php?id=42147

[SteveO]

Portable reference

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh172/tidalsurge/Lock-Wrap.jpg

This is how I've been doing it for the last 15 years or so.

[snakestretcher]

You don't need any complicated locking manoeuvers, or 'over and under' techniques. I've been stringing mine this way for over 40 years; it's quick, neat and keeps your tuning stable:

1. Thread string through bridge as usual.
2. Keeping the string taut bring it up to the tuner.
3. Put one or two wraps around the post. NOT through the hole yet (two wraps for the unwound strings).
4. Now thread the free end through the post hole ABOVE the wraps and pull the free end tight.
5. Tune to pitch, stretch the string, tune to pitch and repeat until stretching no longer flattens pitch.
6. Trim off excess string length and you're done.

You'll notice that, as you tune up, the wraps work up toward the post hole and lock the string off at the hole, further adding to tuning stability.

This system has a further advantage; by NOT threading the string through the hole first you eliminate the sharp angle put into the string at the edge of the hole, which instantly induces metal fatigue, leading to premature string breaks.
My method puts the area of greatest stress on a TANGENT, and a gentle arc as the string leaves the tuner on its way to the nut.

No bending, no knots, no kinks. Try it; it's quick, easy and works.