1. frankie5fingers

    frankie5fingers Supporting Member

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    Any consensus on some good 5E3 mods? Something specific I can give to a competant tech. Looking for, in order of importance: 1) a mod to take away the fizz when driving the power tubes (at lower and mid gain). 2) A mod to add some chime and sparkle, and 3) a mod to add a little "fatness" to the overall tone. Thanks
     
  2. mbratch

    mbratch Member

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    What kind of speaker do you have in your 5E3 right now? And what else have you tried? I think a speaker change just might positively impact all three of your categories depending upon what you have now.
     
  3. TweeDLX

    TweeDLX Member

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    The Paul C mod helped reduce the fizzies in mine. Good speaker does make a big diff.
     
  4. 59Vampire

    59Vampire Silver Supporting Member

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    I have a victoria 5e3 with a jensen and use a les paul to boot. I went through extensive tube swaps until I found the righ selection that allowed my lester to play nicely in the sand box.

    Then I got this thing called an Ayan Smooth and Slim. Its a passive selective frequency filter of some sort that pretty much removes all flubbiness and and fizz. It works great. It allowed me to go to a more tradidional tube choice for V2. However, it does take away some of the warmth that the tweed delux is known for but after a while the benefits far outweigh the perceived differences I was thinking of trying a celestion blue but im not experienced with speakers o I pretty much left that part alone.
     
  5. frankie5fingers

    frankie5fingers Supporting Member

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    I can't find the Paul C mod - the links on the old posts aren't gettin' me there. What is that? Thanks
     
  6. tommytomcat

    tommytomcat Member

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    The easist thing to try first is putting a 100K resistor/grid stopper on the cathodyne PI grid. i.e. V2A plate > .022uF cap > 100K resistor > V2B grid (pin 7). You can go as high as 1m, I've read.. but a little (100K-220K) goes a long way. I'd try this before doing the Paul C mod.

    Also.. if you have a heavy duty ceramic 50-100W w/ 1.5"+ voice coil speaker in your amp, your tone will be stiffled.. especially with humbuckers. Look into a 20-30w speaker with a 1" or 1.25" voice coil. You'll get some chime back. Cheap suggestions: Weber Signature Series 12S ceramic, Mojotone AV12C. More expensive: Weber 12A125A 30W light dope or 12F125A.

    Tubes: You've got to have a decent 12AY7 or 5751 in V1. The Tung Sol 12AX7 in v2 would be a good match for a 12AY7 and I like a NOS 12AT7 matched up with the 5751 in V1. Output tubes: the Tung Sol RI 6V6's will give you more sparkle than JJ and Electro Harmonics 6V6's.

    Circuit considerations: change the V1 bright channel's coupling cap to a .022uF and lower the shared V1 cathode bypass cap to 10uF/25v. Play your strat/tele's through the normal channel, P90s & humbuckers through the bright channel. I'd also lower the PI coupling caps from .1uF to .047uF. The lower the value of the coupling cap, the less bass frequencies it's going to pass.
     
  7. go7

    go7 Member

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    An nos 5Y3 rectifier is essential. New production does not meet specs. Notice that most if not all builders offer an nos rectifier stock.
    This was discussed on TGP and amp builders agreed new production 5Y3 do not meet specs. The good news is nos 5Y3 are cheap and plentiful. Good luck.
     
  8. frankie5fingers

    frankie5fingers Supporting Member

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    Thanks guys. I play it through a cab with 1 - 30 watt Wizard and 1 - 30 watt Blue. Tube-wise I switch between old stuff and new reissues, 12ax and 12at RCA, Amperex, Mullard, and Tungsram, as well as some new stuff - JJs, TS and Mullard reissue. I use mostly the old stuff though, and so far I like the Amperex or Mullard 12AT7 in the PI and either a Tungsram or Mullard AX7 in number 1. It's a beefed up chassis that's cathode bias and uses 5881s (old TS or new reissues) instead of 6V6 - I use an RCA 5UGB rectifier. The tubes have made a big difference, no doubt. It's a closed back cab and I'm not suffering too much with a flabby bass, it's the fizziness at 11:00 to 3:00 I'm trying to defeat, while adding some chime and fatness.
     
  9. LowellH

    LowellH Member

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    I concur.
     
  10. koen

    koen Guest

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    Would this 100k resistor be placed before or after the 1M resistor that goes to the 56k resistor?
     
  11. Trout

    Trout Member

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    This one?

    [​IMG]
     
  12. Gris

    Gris Supporting Member

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    Quality 12AY7, right speaker, coupling cap value change and above all else JUMPER the channels correctly... output iron makes a diff too
     
  13. TweeDLX

    TweeDLX Member

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    After. You can either run directly to the grid pin from the 1M, or install some sort of bridging device (terminal strip, eyelet hole, turret, etc).
     
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2010
  14. koen

    koen Guest

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    Thanks, I'll probably use a switch to go back and forward. I think the chassis of my Mission already has some holes for that.
     
  15. TNO

    TNO Member

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    My setup is adapted from some of the old Gibson amps: .02 coupling caps with Sozos or Jupiters, 30-10-10 filters, no bapass cap on the 6V6s cathode resistor, 5751 in V1.
     
  16. hasserl

    hasserl Member

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    V1 cathode bypass cap changed to 4.7uf, coupling caps changed to .022uf. PaulC mod if you want to smooth out the distortion from the PI. If you want to broaden the response curve from the volume controls change the Vol control circuit to the 6G3 brown Deluxe style. Since there is only one Tone control, you can either use a dual pot and add tone control for both channels, but my preference is to leave off the tone controls from the pre amp, add a bright cap for the bright channel (500pf) and add a post PI "cut" control for a tone control.
     
  17. gtrnstuff

    gtrnstuff Member

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  18. Trout

    Trout Member

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  19. gtrnstuff

    gtrnstuff Member

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    It looked familiar, but I wanted to provide the text as well. Paul C does say he referenced an Ampeg schematic, to give credit where credit is due.
     
  20. TweeDLX

    TweeDLX Member

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    I tried the 100K grid stopper on the PI, and it was OK, but when I changed it to a 330K, it really made a difference! The Valve Wizard site says you should "use a big grid stopper" on a cathodyne/split-load PI to smooth it out when overdriven. Pretty cool. Thanks for the info Tommy!:D

    Mike
     

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