I just completed the amp this afternoon and have had very little time to play through it. Initial impression is that there is plenty of gain on tap! Unfortunately, I forgot to bring a decent guitar to the studio, so I only had an old L6-S at the studio with rusty strings (which won't stay in tune). The amp is a channel switching clean/overdrive amp with a full tone stack on both channels. The clean channel has Level, Volume, and Preamp controls to tweak the type and degree of overdrive. This channel will get pretty crunchy is you turn up the preamp and volume enough. The overdrive channel has Level, Drive, and Preamp controls which allow you to really fine tune the gain. A master volume can be engaged using a push-pull pot. And there's a presence knob to control the negative feedback loop. Here's the chassis with the heater wiring and power transformer installed. The pots in the bottom of the chassis are also installed with a buss bar. Here's a better look at the buss bar. And now both sets of pots installed I didn't use the stock Weber fiber/eyelet board. Instead, I ordered a phenolic turret board from turretboards.com (thanks Ken!). I drilled the turret board for the wire leads and nylon standoffs for the channel switching board (which will float above the turret board). Output transformer installed, as well as input jacks. Most of the lead wiring for the pots is complete since the board will limit access to these pots once it's installed. The turret board is loaded with flying leads. Insulated buss wire was used to make the jumpers on the board. Here's the board installed with the flying leads. What a mess! Most of the wire leads are attached to the board at this point. The transformers, choke, and all power wiring is complete at this point. Here's a look at the board from the other side with the impedance switch wired in. Usually, loading the board is a fun experience. This one is so compact and the Orange Drops take up so much space, that I have to be really careful running the leads to make sure everything fits. I don't think I'll be using Sprague in future amps with space constraints. The last step is to install the channel switching board and wire all the shielded leads to the control pots. The channel switching board is powered by the filament wires and can only be activated by the remote switch (at least how I have it now). Here's a better look at the channel switching board. And the final product. I built the amp for a good friend. I hope he likes it.