Not sure if this has been posted before but here goes... If you've had an issue with your SS2 display going dim or totally dead even when using a 9v power supply, here's the fix straight from Peterson. Email response: " Hi Eric, . When we built your unit in Jan 2007 it was part of a small production run that we found to have a faulty capacitor. We did not know there was a faulty batch from the manufacturer. Unfortunately, it did not show up right away during our testing process. The capacitor only failed after some use. As soon as we realized we had a problem we investigated, found the source and corrected it. I think I have an easy fix for you if you would like to try it. I have attached instructions If not, that's fine, please ship it back to us Peterson EMP Attn:Repairs 11601 S. Mayfield Av Alsip, IL. 60803 Once we receive the tuner we can usually ship it back out within a few days. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you Sue" FIX FIX FIX FIX FIX FIX FIX FIX FIX FIX FIX FIX FIX FIX FIX FIX FIX FIX FIX FIX FIX FIX FIX FIX FIX FIX FIX FIX 1) Disassemble tuner by removing 2 Phillips-head base plate screws plus 2 black pan-head XLR ("Active DI") jack screws and 2 sets of nuts/washers from IN and OUT jacks at back of the unit. 2) After sliding base plate off from 2 slots at the back of the unit, set battery holder aside and CAREFULLY pull loosened I/O circuit board back from enclosure and gently flip over to expose it's underside (component side). 3) Locate capacitor labeled "C9" (behind large XLR jack, as shown in the photo. 4) With thin side-cutter tool ("wire-cutters"), cut away metal leads at each end of the C9 capacitor to free it from the board (see photo) 5) Remove and dispose of ENTIRE capacitor and/or any fragments that may have been produced during this process--be careful to leave NO stray material on the board or inside the tuner enclosure! 6) GENTLY flip I/O board back over and slide jacks back into the enclosure openings. 7) CHECK that BOTH slip-on wire connectors (8-conductor and 5-conductor) are FULLY inserted into I/O board receptacles! 8) Start--but do not fully tighten--the 2 black pan-head screws around the large XLR ("Active DI") jack area. 9) Return washers/nuts to the IN and OUT jacks and tighten with a nut driver tool. 10) Fully tighten the 2 black pan-head screws around the XLR jack. 11) Partially re-attach battery holder by inserting appropriate pivot pin into retaining hole in the enclosure (nearer the front of the unit) 12) Partially reattach base plate by sliding tabs into enclosure slots and lining up base plate screw holes over enclosure screw bosses. 13) BEFORE starting base plate screws, adjust battery holder so that its second pivot pin is properly seated into the base plate hole made for this purpose. (Once properly seated, the battery holder should swing freely and easily but remain secured at the two pivot points (i.e., at the base plate and enclosure holes). 14) Re-attach and tighten base plate screws.