Traynor YBA-1A ?'s (Pics added)

Discussion in 'Amps/Cabs Tech Corner: Amplifier, Cab & Speakers T' started by Sharkey, Jul 19, 2007.

  1. Sharkey

    Sharkey Member

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    I happened to run across an old Traynor Bass Master Mark 2 and the gentleman wanted 20$ for it, but said he didn't know if it was operational. I had been wanting to find an old tube base head for my band room and I had heard of Traynors but really had no prior knowledge of these amps or their history. A quick peek in the back told me the preamp tubes were worth his asking price (if they worked) and it was built like a tank so I brought it home with me.

    After some research here and on E-bay, I now know I scored a very nice old tube amp. After I found out what Ohm speaker to use I plugged her in and it fired
    right up. The pilot light was burnt out so I replaced it and I know it will need a cap job .

    My question's are:

    Does it look all original inside?

    Suggestion's on brand of NOS power tubes that sound good in these?

    Mods - or leave it as is?
     
  2. sliberty

    sliberty Member

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    Photos?

    If it is original, leave it alone. They are basically Plexi amps in sheep's clothing. I have an earlier YBA-1, and it rocks. If you don't already have an amp that can handle the Marshall tone, you do now.
     
  3. Sharkey

    Sharkey Member

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    :jo
    Dohh, Too many irons in the fire.
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    I'm a far cry from being a amp tech but that center cap looks a little suspect:D

    This thing is built like a tank and should probably come with a roadie, or at least casters:rotflmao. These seem well liked as guitar amps but will it make a decent bass amp for a med sized rehearsal space?
    I found some info on dating these but the info seemed suspect to me.

    Serial #2040991 Anyone?
    Thanks for looking - Advice & suggestions are always welcomed.:AOK
     
  4. Sharkey

    Sharkey Member

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    Bump, for some expert advice and or suggestions:BEER
     
  5. AL30

    AL30 Member

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    The resistors on the right side of the board (big sqare ones) may not be original. Not sure. I've got two old Traynors and they didn't have that style in there. Not that it's a problem - I believe those are prone to overheating anyway.

    Not sure what "center" cap you are referring to but the caps look stock.

    I wouldn't mod that amp at all. She's a beauty. Cap job and check for any drifting components. Possible mod to put in an adjustable bias supply.

    Serial # info from Velvet Black

    http://www.informatik.uni-bremen.de/~dace/vb/index.html

    http://www.lynx.bc.ca/~jc/traynorSchmArchive.html
     
  6. Sharkey

    Sharkey Member

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    AL30,
    Thanks for the links and reply. From the research I have done here on TGP, everyone says these are suppose-ably really loud amps and this one didn't seem very loud at all when I tested it. It appears to have the original power tubes so I 'm gonna pic some up ASP and change those out. Like I said I'm no Tech but I assumed the brown residue on the inside of the chassis was an indication of a leaky cap. Suggestions anyone?
     
  7. Wakarusa

    Wakarusa Member

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    The large capacitor at the front of the chassis (horizontal and brown) is either bad or going bad. Note the prominent bulge in the left end cap. When you go to get new tubes for it, it's overdue to have the large electrolytics changed out.

    As far as mods, I'd suggest getting it working correctly stock and then playing it long enough to know if you want it changed.
     
  8. Sharkey

    Sharkey Member

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    Thanks for the expert info and suggestions on this Todd.
    I figured that brown residue was an indication of a leaky
    cap.

    Anyone care to suggest a brand of new production EL34's that would work best in this amp and also where and what brand of electrolytics & new caps to purchase
    for it online?
     
  9. Wakarusa

    Wakarusa Member

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    I just put a set of JJ E34L in a gear pager's YBA-1 this weekend and they sound dandy. Mike K. (Blue Strat) will probably have some good advice on this as well.

    For the caps the first thing you have to decide is whether or not you need to replace the multi-section cans. If you do, then there's the next question about whether to replace them with new cans, or to disconnect the old ones (leave 'em there for decoration) and replace them with a bank of new discrete components tucked inside the chassis.

    The replacement discretes can have a much smaller footprint than those old brown ones. The good news is that you can fit a bunch more inside. The bad news is that the old clips won't fit the new caps -- so you (or your tech) will have to rig up something new to hold everything in place. As for where to get 'em, the usual suspects are Antique Electronics Supply, Mouser, etc. You may need to replace single high voltage rating caps with a pair of replacements (fairly rare to see, for instance, a 600WVDC cap these days, so you put in a pair of 350WVDC with twice the capacitance in series instead). Depending on how experienced you are, you may want to leave the recap to your tech -- or at a minimum invite over a buddy who's done this sort of stuff before and trade labor for beer (the beer, of course, has to come after the labor -- not during ;))
     
  10. donnyjaguar

    donnyjaguar Member

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    Nice amp (I have one too). Just leave the can caps in and add the appropriate capacitance inside the chassis. Use 105C electrolytics and rock on. The amplifier is ferociously loud. Traynor amp's have the schematic on the underside of the cover which is good because many circuit variations exist. You can peal it off the galvanized sheet with a heat gun to photocopy. Check all tube receiver pins for wear and/or deformation. The tubes could be original. Its missing the wooden crossmember on the back with the two cord winding posts (unless you removed for the photo session). You got an amazing deal! The trick now is to find a matching speaker cabinet for a reasonable price.

    As for mod's, check the voltage supply on the first stage. If there is a 10k resistor feeding it, great. If not, add one to bring the plate voltage down just a little and you should be good to go.
     
  11. phsyconoodler

    phsyconoodler Member

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    Great score! It is definitely original inside.There are no can caps in this amp.The three caps you see are what you get.There are a couple of smaller electrolytics that also need replacing.The resistors are also all original.The ones in the reddish boxes are tempreature sensitive resistors and they change resistance with temperature.
    I also suggest rebuilding it totally stock and by all means replace those tubes!
     
  12. Sharkey

    Sharkey Member

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    Thanks guys,
    Think I will give Mike a call for the tubes and then I'll just take it to a good qualified amp tech that Greg Germino recommended to me.

    Ballpark, how much will this cost if I supply the tubes?

    DJ,
    The back panel was included with it and the tubes appear to be original.
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    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...MEWA:IT&viewitem=&item=330147498923&rd=1&rd=1
    This just sold on E-bay but I need 8 ohm cab right?
     
  13. phsyconoodler

    phsyconoodler Member

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    Sorry,I didn't see the cap cans on first glance,and as my head is stuck inside a Traynor Mark III right now that doesn't have cans,I made a mistake.Indeed change those caps!
     
  14. Swarty

    Swarty Member

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    Those original Mullards (preamp and power) may be perfectly fine. Of course you could also spin them on Ebay for a bunch of dough. BTW, I'd call it circa '72.
     
  15. chris_d

    chris_d Member

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    +1 on crunky old electrolytics. But don't let anyone touch those old mustards!

    -chris
     
  16. donnyjaguar

    donnyjaguar Member

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    Before you replace the tubes I'd be inclined to test them first. The amplifier looks pretty low mileage to me so if the output isn't as loud (deafening) as it should be there could be other components requiring attention. Traynor normally fitted fans to the more powerful bass heads. I can't read the voltage on the schematic for the output tubes but this will give me an idea of what its capable of. Interestingly enough, many of the Traynors I see have original tubes. Mine has only one left but it was well used by a traveling oompapa polka outfit.
     
  17. Sharkey

    Sharkey Member

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    Better Schematic Pic
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    Glass Pics
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    Thanks for the help and advice on this :AOK
     
  18. DGDGBD

    DGDGBD Supporting Member

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    That is some robust plate voltage there...if you retube, make sure the power tubes can handle 550+v. If the tubes that are in there sound OK, I'd just leave em alone.

    BTW, I have a slightly older YBA-1. Most of the components in yours look original including the square yellow caps.
     
  19. Sharkey

    Sharkey Member

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    Thanks Dave,
    I'm praying that the power tubes are still OK just knowing what a matched NOS pair of these sell for these days. The preamp tubes are as strong as ever & sound UN-believable in my Aiken Invader. Are any of the new production EL-34's capable of handleing this kind of plate voltage? I've had a few EL-34 type amps in the past but it's been quiet awhile since I've retubed one.
     
  20. offbeat

    offbeat Member

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    Great score! It's a pretty loud amp, so you've got an issue there. The good news is these things are easy to work on, and pretty bulletproof. It shouldn't take much to get it up and roaring.

    Excuse me for a second while I climb up on my soapbox.... I'm not as young as I used to be.

    Okay, there.

    When I become King Of The World, EVERY amp will be built this way. 4 machine screws on top expose all the components, and the schematic is included! Honestly, I'm surprised that more manufacturers haven't copied that build...

    No little nuts to drop, no wood screws that strip out with time, no searching for a schematic, no sliding chassis in and out, etc. What a great design!
    Enjoy your amp!
    Neal
     

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