Modded DOD 250

[FuzzGazer]

I modded my DOD 250 yesterday/today with some really cool results, the mods are as follows:

1. True Bypass
2. IC Socket
3. IC Swap from 4558 to TLO82
4. Swap diode for LED for asymmetrical clipping.
5. Attached clipping LED to face of unit

Results: The boost is now ridiculously loud and the gain sounds nice and grindy with a little added fuzz-ish character The LED only lights when the circuit is engaged so it acts as an bypass/on indicator, but it also flashes when I play - very cool! I tried four different IC's before settling on the TLO82, but it was a tight race between it and the KF353. I'd read good things online about the 5532, but I really didn't like it.

I've done some True Bypass mods before but this is my first extensive modding attempt, I'm really happy with the results. Speaking of the True Bypass mod; it is really unneccessary to TB mod the DOD 250. I did some before and after tests and the stock bypass sounds really good on these units.

[surferfuzz]

Cool, those are fun to mod.

[FuzzGazer]

I killed it.

I decided to try one more mod, changing the input cap to a higher value to boost the bass, I let the iron get too hot and I melted the donut off the board. All that work down the tubes.

*sigh*

I guess now I have an excuse to get another one!

[cj_wattage]

Whatever you screwed up, you can just replace.

What is a "donut", by the way? You got pics?

[FuzzGazer]

Originally Posted by cj_wattage

Whatever you screwed up, you can just replace.

What is a "donut", by the way? You got pics?

Donut = Annular Ring on PCB.

[cj_wattage]

I had to look up "annular ring". Based on the diagram I looked at, that terms is more or less interchangeable with "pad".

If you lifted a pad during soldering, you can just manually connect (solder) the component lead to whichever trace it was supposed to be routed to through the pad.

[FuzzGazer]

Originally Posted by cj_wattage

I had to look up "annular ring". Based on the diagram I looked at, that terms is more or less interchangeable with "pad".

If you lifted a pad during soldering, you can just manually connect (solder) the component lead to whichever trace it was supposed to be routed to through the pad.

Probably a combination of poor soldering skills and the wrong tools, but I can't get the solder to connect to the trace.

[cj_wattage]

you may need to polish the trace up a bit with some fine steel wool to take off the top layer of oxidation.

Or, if the board has a solder mask on the trace side (I think those old DODs are all one-sided), you can use a bit of fine sandpaper to rub off the solder mask from the trace so that you can solder to it.

If you can post a pic, I and others can give more specific advice on fixing it.

[Jet Age Eric]

Nice! (Well, not the part where you fried it.) -E

[FuzzGazer]

Originally Posted by cj_wattage

you may need to polish the trace up a bit with some fine steel wool to take off the top layer of oxidation.

Or, if the board has a solder mask on the trace side (I think those old DODs are all one-sided), you can use a bit of fine sandpaper to rub off the solder mask from the trace so that you can solder to it.

If you can post a pic, I and others can give more specific advice on fixing it.

Thanks! I'll try that tonight (and take a pic)

[FuzzGazer]

Originally Posted by Jet Age Eric

Nice! (Well, not the part where you fried it.) -E

LOL, yeah it was sounding good too. Hopefully I can resurrect it.

[ROKY]

Originally Posted by FuzzGazer

Thanks! I'll fry that tonight (and take a pic)

fixed .

[FuzzGazer]

Originally Posted by ROKY

fixed .

That is no shit!