Twisted neck = Firewood?

[Dog Boy]

Man, if I can save this thing I'd love to. (Without, of course, spending what it would cost to build a new one)

Vintge style truss rod is completely loose and it still has a large backbow on the low e side. The other side is up and down wavy. I string it with D'Addario 9's.

I think going to a higher gauge string would improve things but still I'd like to see if anything can be done and keep the current string gauge.


Thoughts?

[fumbler]

Sounds like a train wreck (and not the good (amp) kind, either.)

A fret pull/fingerboard plane/re-fret CAN fix everything but you're looking at maybe $400. You'll have to decide if it's worth it.

Are we talking about a bolt-on or a set-neck?

[Dog Boy]

Originally Posted by fumbler

Sounds like a train wreck (and not the good (amp) kind, either.)

A fret pull/fingerboard plane/re-fret CAN fix everything but you're looking at maybe $400. You'll have to decide if it's worth it.

Are we talking about a bolt-on or a set-neck?

Its a set neck and a dam fine sounding guitar. Otherwise I wouldn't bother.

In general how is the stability of a neck that has been planed and refretted? Will it stay straight for years afterward?

Thanks!

[Soapbarstrat]

The older the neck, the more stable it tends to be after board planing.

The worst I ever dealt with was my own cort bass. The treble side of the headstock was between 9 and 8 o'clock, bass side between 1 and 2 o'clock. I didn't know at that time (early 90's) that a twist in that direction was "ok" (can be perfectly playable with a twist like that). So, I planed the twist out. 1/8" black binding along the fret-board edges. By the time I was done planing the board flat, the binding on the bass side of the board where it meets the nut was about 1/32".
Did that around 1991. It's remained at least near perfect all this time.

[fumbler]

Yeah, your neck has already reached it's "neutral" position and should be VERY stable from here on out. You should really take it to a competent tech to see what's what.

[Mighty Melvin]

People argue against the clamping-and-heating method but it works most of the time for me. You have to be crafty enough to apply vectors in the direction or directions where you want the neck to go, and apply the heat carefully but effectively. And often you have to do it twice.

It's a job you can feel satisfied about if you can pull it off.

M

[zztomato]

From experience, I find it extremely hard to remove a full twist from a neck with heat. If you really love the neck you could always pull the frets and plane/radius the neck true. You could try using heat first to get it closer.
I just did this on an old Teisco guitar from the 60's. It had a bit of a twist in it- did one thing on the treble side on another on the bass. Am just re-fretting now. It should turn out great.

[Terry McInturff]

The following is my own opinion only.

As mentioned above, it is quite likely...although not certain....that the internal stresses at the heart of the twist have relaxed; if so the chances of a permanent fix via "plane/refret" are good.

One thing to note is that in such situations, the main-aim is to remove as little wood as is possible from the fretboard surface. By proceeding with due caution and an experienced eye, the "feel" of the neck will be changed as little as possible, inlays can be preserved, etc.

BTW in my world there is never an actual traditional plane involved...sanding planes, yes.

My method for dealing with neck twist always involves removing the frets, sanding as little as possible here-and-there to correct the situation, and finally replacing the frets (of course there is finishwork involved with many maple and Rickenbacker necks too).

[buddyboy69]

The problem if you do it yourself you will have to invest in some tools. Some you can make others you will have to buy, especially when it comes to fretwork. Having someone do it will be expensive. Tough call, what else would you do with it? Part it out? How much will that get. Might be a good project to really cut your teeth on.

Ive done it a few times, they all play great. I have 2 waiting for the "treatment'. It can be time consuming and tedious, and you might find yourself spending more time fixing mistakes than making progress. But you will learn a lot.

[zztomato]

Originally Posted by Terry McInturff

BTW in my world there is never an actual traditional plane involved...sanding planes, yes.

Right. I should be more specific about these things. We don't want people shaving off big strips of wood from the fretboard.

[Soapbarstrat]

Yeah, my "plane" was a Ken Donnell 13" glass surfaced deal, and you had to go to an autobody shop supplier, 'cause the dang thing held the extra long abrasive strips with clips.

years later, PSA came along !!! (at least to me ! )

Another "score" for fellow TGP'ers finding fault !

[Chris Scott]

Originally Posted by Terry McInturff

The following is my own opinion only.

As mentioned above, it is quite likely...although not certain....that the internal stresses at the heart of the twist have relaxed; if so the chances of a permanent fix via "plane/refret" are good.

One thing to note is that in such situations, the main-aim is to remove as little wood as is possible from the fretboard surface. By proceeding with due caution and an experienced eye, the "feel" of the neck will be changed as little as possible, inlays can be preserved, etc.

BTW in my world there is never an actual traditional plane involved...sanding planes, yes.

My method for dealing with neck twist always involves removing the frets, sanding as little as possible here-and-there to correct the situation, and finally replacing the frets (of course there is finishwork involved with many maple and Rickenbacker necks too).

You pretty much just summed up the lions-share of my work load of late (high heat & humidity here) and I concur - sight the neck, measure the neck - be the neck, and now get cracking on it and see if you can't save all the inlays...