TS808 True Bypass schematic?

[niksevig119]

Well, my stock switch has been giving me problems. It now only works if you stomp on it ..Hard. I have a spare 3pdt switch, and i figured what better time to make it true bypass.I searched and have come up with no definite schematic..Just wondering if someone has a wiring diagram for this mod. TS808 to True Bypass. Thank You

[whoismarykelly]

You'll have to go in and bypass all the buffer circuitry. You could also use one of jack deville's clickless true bypass boards with a stock style switch but you may need to get a replacement part before you can make that work.

[Heady Jam Fan]

Originally Posted by whoismarykelly

You'll have to go in and bypass all the buffer circuitry. You could also use one of jack deville's clickless true bypass boards with a stock style switch but you may need to get a replacement part before you can make that work.

Yea, I was thinking this is probably the case.

[whackystrings]

I have the exact same issue with my TS808RI...which I probably would find a bit less frustrating if my old TS10 didn't have a similar issue (different type of switch but same flakiness).
Rather than getting Analogman to do the True Vintage and True Bypass mods totaling about $140-ish, I went with a TS808HW that I got for a very good price on craigslist. One day I'll get around to getting the 808RI and TS10 modified

[Jack DeVille]

Originally Posted by whoismarykelly

You'll have to go in and bypass all the buffer circuitry. You could also use one of jack deville's clickless true bypass boards with a stock style switch but you may need to get a replacement part before you can make that work.

Heady Jim Fan,

You don't have to use my switch to convert the unit to true-bypass.
In fact, you can follow the instructions here:
http://www.jackdeville.com/jackdevil...all_manual.pdf
and just use whatever switch you want once the flip-flop has been locked using my method (one part removal instead of six or seven, plus installing jumpers and all the other hoo-hah that is common; its all detailed in the manual above).
Simply substitute your favorite true-bypass wiring scheme and treat the effect PCB as you would any other effect.

The Click-Less™ system drops in easily without drilling and lasts about 40x longer than garden variety 3PDTs. This is an advantage in my eyes, but it is more costly than a cheap mechanical switch.

You'll have to weight out the best decision for your situation. I still recommend reading the above manual to see what you're in for regardless of the switch you choose to use.

[Heady Jam Fan]

Originally Posted by Jack DeVille

Heady Jim Fan,

You don't have to use my switch to convert the unit to true-bypass.
In fact, you can follow the instructions here:
http://www.jackdeville.com/jackdevil...all_manual.pdf
and just use whatever switch you want once the flip-flop has been locked using my method (one part removal instead of six or seven, plus installing jumpers and all the other hoo-hah that is common; its all detailed in the manual above).
Simply substitute your favorite true-bypass wiring scheme and treat the effect PCB as you would any other effect.

The Click-Less™ system drops in easily without drilling and lasts about 40x longer than garden variety 3PDTs. This is an advantage in my eyes, but it is more costly than a cheap mechanical switch.

You'll have to weight out the best decision for your situation. I still recommend reading the above manual to see what you're in for regardless of the switch you choose to use.

Yea - I was just thinking that if he used the clickless without a 3PDT, he might likely still need to replace parts of his current footswitch. But I did initially think of your product when I first read it, I just didn't post until later cuz I wasn't sure if there was a simpler way.

[Jack DeVille]

A 3PDT switch is fairly simple to wire in; many of us have installed a few in our time messing with pedals and tone.

My suggestion is that you can still use the Click-Less™ installation procedures and sub in whatever switch you like! I think the way I've devised for defeating the flip-flop circuit is the cleanest and fastest.

When I designed the system, I looked around the web for a while (I was being lazy and didn't want to analyze the circuit) but all I saw were guys ripping the whole flip-flop circuit out and putting a bunch of jumpers in its place. I really didn't like this, so I sat down, figured out a quicker way to the goal and published the information for everyone. Once the flip-flop is defeated, the rest of the mod-job is a snap. Any true-bypass wiring scheme floating around out there will be fine.