Solder quality and gauge (for pickups)

[Frethog]

Over the course of the last couple years, I have replaced 2 or 3 pickups using some old solder I had laying around.

Ersin™ ‘Five Core’ non-corrosive flux. It claims: “High tin television & radio quality”. 60 tin/40 lead (which means nothing to me…)

Of course this particular stuff is about as old as the first television…

I dunno if solder can age or if I should be using a different gauge. We have a tendency to split hairs around here, and that’s ok by me

Tell me if there is a definitive high quality brand/gauge of solder that I should be using instead.

Thanks

[LavaMan]

I use WBT silver solder on all my cables and it is outstanding, much better IMO than the Kester 66/44 I was using before. I send you a sample if you like.

[Frethog]

That's nice, thanks! I don't think it will be necessary. Is that the smallest diameter? (.032).

I'm guessing I won't find that at Radio Shack...

I assumed the 60/40 meant percentage of content. 66/44 quickly dispels that myth...

[coreybox]

the 60/40 is content.....at least im pretty sure

[pfflam]

Does the silver solder have lead in it?

are there any solders that have no lead that are good for electronics?

Where can I buy this stuff?

--I worry about the fumes a bit

[scottywompas]

You can find .032 silver solder at rat shack. I have been using it when building my pedals for about six months now.

Just an anti lead thing more than a "it sounds better thing" I just don't want any lead in my house with my little boy running around.

Scott

[pfflam]

Do you know that if you google 'rat shack' you'll get Radio Shack?

Anyway, that's how I made sure about yer nick-name usage . . . thanks for the info.

[CAFeathers]

I use Rosin Core 60/40 in .025 diameter. I buy locally at Fry's Electronics, but they have a website too. http://www.outpost.com/

[ClinchFX]

Mouser and Digi-Key have lead free solder. It is mostly tin with small amounts of silver, copper and sometimes other elements. It has a higher melting point than lead solder. If you use it on a previously lead/tin soldered joint, you should remove all of the old solder first. The higher melting point makes it more difficult to solder cables and other things that contain plastic insulation, without melting the insulation.

Most consumer products that are marketed world wide are now manufactured with lead free solder and components. It is now illegal to import or sell electronic items containing lead and a couple of other substances in European Union countries under Reduction of Hazardous Substances (ROHS) legislation that came into effect a few days ago. Some medical equipment and avionics (airplane electronics) are exempt from this law at the moment, which raises questions about reliability. I think California and some other US states will follow the EU lead next year. Here in Australia, the government seems to be largely ignoring the issue.

This will create problems for boutique manufacturers, particularly those using NOS components, because the rules apply not only to the solder, but to all components as well. If the manufacturer is outside the EU, there's not much the EU can do to the manufacturer, but the person importing the item can be fined and have the item confiscated.

Peter
ClinchFX

[pfflam]

So silver solder also deands a higher temperature?

Will I be able to use it using my cheap-arse 35w gun?

[WailinGuy]

Most "silver" solder also contains tin and lead. The percentage of silver is only a few percent; most of the metal is still tin and lead. At least that's true for the Radio Shack stuff I have. I've never heard a good explanation of why silver-bearing solder is better than regular 60/40 solder. (Does 3 or 4% silver really make the solder noticeably more conductive?)

[scottywompas]

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search

[pfflam]

So the Bearing Silver solder that I just purchased is not in fact Lead free?

Do I need to get the kind that specifically says "lead free"?

[LavaMan]

The WBT Silver solder I use is lead free.

[Cusack Effects]

I would recommend against lead-free solder for a newbie. It's hard enough to learn to solder, with lead-free you have no real feedback as to how good your joints are. In any case, leaded solder is, and will be allowable for repair work for many years.

As for recommendations, I used to use Kester 44, but now I use Kester 245, which has an organic no-clean flux. It's available all the way down to .015" or less I think. .015" is the smallest we use here.

We are currently planning to change to leadfree solder only on those projects requiring it. This is mainly because leadfree solder is not only harder to use, but it is also an unknown as far as reliability. It is known to be more brittle than leaded, and oh yeah, the medical industry is not changing over. Insteresting, because you would think they would be first? Anyway, they aren't for the same reason I'm not, the unknown reliabilty.

My 2 cents anyway...