Beginners advice for finishing a guitar..

[codyprang]

Somebody gave me a PRS SE Billy Martin about two years ago and it's been sitting in my room since then, untouched. I think this guitar is hideous. It's pretty jacked up as well because of the previous owner. The wood itself is in pretty good condition, with the exception of a couple chips. The pickups are rusty and I'm pretty sure at his bands last show, he threw it across the stage.

Anyway, I've decided that it would be cool to try and work with this guitar a little bit. Maybe learn some things along the way. Doing things like stripping the paint off and putting a high gloss over the wood. I'd replace all the hardware with chrome hardware as well. I've been looking at the Stewart-Macdonald website a little bit for finishing supplies and instructions.

This isn't something I'm too terribly concerned with doing the absolute right way, but at the same time, I'd like to do my best.

Is there anyone with some advice, or maybe even a guide in doing this? How should I take the paint off? Chemicals or sanding? Things like that. Sorry if this seems dumb, but I have no idea where to start, hah. I'm 18 so I haven't been in the game too terribly long.

I'd appreciate any advice! Thanks!

Cody

P.S. I HATE the bridge on this guitar..

[pedalfreek]

I'm sure there are plenty of people here that will give you really good advice, but definitely check out:
http://www.reranch.com/reranch/

A great group of guys over there.....

Good luck!!

[walterw]

folks have recommended a paint scraper and a heat gun to get that thick poly finish off, but man, what a messy, tedious and grueling job, all to likely reveal really ugly wood underneath (you don't think these companies waste their pretty, un-blemished wood under solid finishes, do you?)

also, what's wrong with that contoured, one-piece lightweight stop bar bridge? lots of folks (me included) think that one-piece wraparound bridges sound especially good.

[codyprang]

Originally Posted by walterw

folks have recommended a paint scraper and a heat gun to get that thick poly finish off, but man, what a messy, tedious and grueling job, all to likely reveal really ugly wood underneath (you don't think these companies waste their pretty, un-blemished wood under solid finishes, do you?)

also, what's wrong with that contoured, one-piece lightweight stop bar bridge? lots of folks (me included) think that one-piece wraparound bridges sound especially good.

Yeah, I can't imagine the wood being very nice, haha. But like I said, it's more about me learning something. I've actually only played the guitar a few times. I just think the bridge is ugly and it seems like it'd be harder to intonate the guitar.

[syxxstring]

If you need to remove the finish because of the damage the heat gun is the way to go.
I would figure out what you want to do before you start so you can come up with a finishing plan.
For a solid color I would either sand or strip it down to a level finish and then prime, base and clear. For that type of finish I'd go with a quality automotive system. I believe one of the keys is to stay in a system/brand and follow the manufacturers instructions playing close attention to windows and working in light coats. You can get a quality finish from rattlecans, you just need to be on top of the details.
I think the finish systems are overpriced from Stew-Mac compared to what you can do with an autoparts store rattlecans.
If your using a spray gun then its a whole new game.

[Blue Strat]

Why would you use a heat gun as opposed to a methylene chloride (note that the fumes are hazardous to your health) based stripper?

[Bob V]

Originally Posted by Blue Strat

Why would you use a heat gun as opposed to a methylene chloride (note that the fumes are hazardous to your health) based stripper?

There are two reasons why I prefer a heat gun compared to chemical strippers:

1. The finish is likely a modern catalyzed conversion varnish or two part polyurethane over polyester or some other magic durable thick finish - great stuff until you try to get it off, and the stripper may take a long time if it works at all.

2. Heat guns are easier to use, because the softened finish scrapes off and before it hits the floor it cools back to a hard chip that can be swept or vacuumed. Compared to the goo you have to deal with using a chemical stripper, a heat gun is a better way to spend your day. Both methods involve fumes, however, and are best done out in the garage rather than in the house.

Don't use sandpaper to strip a finish - it's noisy, slow, messy, and expensive because the paper will load up with goo.

If you do use a chemical stripper, methylene chloride isn't the only game in town. The newer citrus strippers work almost as well while giving you the illusion that they're safer. By the way, organic vapor cartridges in half-masks are good for paint fumes but they will NOT filter out methylene chloride. Fresh air is the only protection from that stuff.

[codyprang]

I've never used a heat gun before, let alone even seen one. How much do one of these things run?

[Jack Briggs]

Anywhere from $50-100. Looks like a hairdryer, but puts out up to 550°F.

[jefesq]

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search_10...yword=heat+gun