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#1
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Reissue Strat trem bar arm sux
Does anyone know of a replacement trem arm that's stronger than the stock Fender one on my 60 Reissue Strat? The one with it is like a cheap chromed coat hanger.
Every time I get it bent how I like it, it's only a matter of time before it's tweekered again. Even closing it wrong in the case bends it. I realize maybe my springs are too tight in back, but I do like the feel I get.... I just need the bar stronger. Thanks. |
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#2
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Are you leaving it on when you close the case??
__________________
Guitars: Fender Texas Tele, Hamer Studio Triple Threat, Fender Strat Ultra, Carvin DC-127, 1995 Larrivee L-19, 2008 American Standard Strat 1994 Les Paul Standard Amp: Mesa Boogie Mark IV Cabs: Avatar Traditional 2x12 with Celestion Century Neo and Century Vintage speakers, Earcandy Sovereign with Jensen Green Machine speaker. Effects: A wah sometimes http://www.myspace.com/theoriginalrobcollard |
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#3
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I take mine off when it's in the case.
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#4
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I try not to, but loading out at 2am sometimes ya gotta move. I'll swing it around to the input jack area though. Still I would think there's gotta be a better made arm somewhere.. I don't know, stainless steel or something?....
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#5
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I don't understand why they don't design one that can be quickly and easily removed and yet still be strong. I know this is possible.
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#6
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Callaham makes SS arms I believe. Just make sure the thread pattern is correct (10/32?)... worth a phone call to Callaham. They're $15 or so.
__________________
eBay User Name - lakehaus Owner - Tidewater Custom Shop (full-time enthusiast/part-time hobbyist) |
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#7
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What type of case is it? You can usually leave the arm on with a reissue tweed type case but the molded plastic guitar shaped ones hit the arm and should be removed.
The Callaham arms are really nice. I'm assuming you're RI is a Mexican 60's. Just make sure the threads are the same like mentioned above. You may have to get a new block which is a nice upgrade anyway. A call to them is best. I only recently have used one of their complete bridge assemblies. They are extremely well made. |
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#8
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I always leave mine on in the case. It'd be awful to have to keep putting it on/off. Stripping threads and wasting time.
All you do is angle it a little towards the forearm contour and the rectangle case closes fine. It never moves or gets bent on any strat I've owned. I don't get how yours could be bending.?? Like JP mentioned, are you using a molded case? Those fit tighter and I could see having a problem with them. |
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#9
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It's a custom shop 60 with the reissue brown case.
The case isn't so much whats doing it... as long as it's put away right, It's playing doing it. Seriously, it tweekers with a couple good dive bombs. Maybe the arm I have is defective metal, or been bent so many times back and forth by the previous owner it is week. I've had other strats I don't remember this prob with though... NTM, I've always been more of a Floyd type of guy, and those arms are strong. I'll check out the Callaham stuff. Thanks. |
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#10
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What does "tweekers" mean?
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#11
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the Callaham bar is rock solid. looks and feels (the angle is just right) much better than the stock ones, and you get a choice of switch tip colors as well (mint green, cream, etc)
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#12
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I make my own. Get some rod stock and ask a friend with a die and tap set to show you.
I don't remove my arms because it wears the block out, and the arm returns less and less to 'rest'. Wobbly sucks. I would never use a SS arm in a stock block, again. I have replaced blocks a few times.
__________________
Often copied, never cloned. (that I know of) |
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#13
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Quote:
The inadequacy of the stock trem arm as it is, and how it wears out under use, is enough by itself to justify the Callaham block and arm. I am liking the intermediate length Callaham arm best, over the real short Gilmour arm. |
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#14
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... messed up... bent out of shape from where I originally had it... ie; tweekers
![]() I'm gonna check out the Callaham arm, though the DeTemple Ti stuff looks cool too. |
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#15
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I thought it was a Mexi 60's RI. You shouldn't of had problems with a CS. Maybe it's just fatigued. If you bought it used maybe the bar got swapped with a lesser quality one.
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