Re-stringing with Fender "vintage" split tuners?

[KazJY]

Hello, fine people in this ever-so-helpful forum (no, not being sarcastic, this forum always has lots of great info)

I have a new Fender EJ Rosewood Strat that has the split tuners. I was going to re-string this weekend, but noticed that the tuners are not what I am used to, not having these tuners on any of my other guitars.

Any tips you can share?

My take on this (having never done it): I just cut the string 2 to 3 inches longer than the tuning peg, insert the string in the hole, and tune 'er up?

I also wonder how the first three (unwound) strings would stick in the hole while tuning.

Thanks in advance.

[VanR]

Cut the string 2 tuners longer than the tuner you are going to stick it in. On B and E you will just have to estimate. Bend a 90 degree in it and stick the end down in the hole. Hold on to the string and wind her up.

[T.Wesley]

I do it similar to VanR - only I cut the string 3 tuners past the target tuner. I don't bend the string first, just stick it in the hole, wind the slack around the tuner, then tune it up.

--chiba

[Bubbles]

I always use a cocktail stick to hold the plain strings till the slacks taken up. Quickest guitars to restring and no pain from cut off string ends.

[walterw]

Originally Posted by VanR

Cut the string 2 tuners longer than the tuner you are going to stick it in. On B and E you will just have to estimate. Bend a 90 degree in it and stick the end down in the hole. Hold on to the string and wind her up.

Originally Posted by Chiba

I do it similar to VanR - only I cut the string 3 tuners past the target tuner. I don't bend the string first, just stick it in the hole, wind the slack around the tuner, then tune it up.

--chiba

right. pre-bending is an unnecessary extra step. cut it, jam it in the hole, bend it over, wind it up. done.

a little more length for the thin strings and a little less for the fat strings is a good idea.

[mc5nrg]

Prebending isn't uneccessary if you happen to be using wound strings with a round core. Its even suggested-or was back in the day-on the Fender string packs. Put a 90 degree bend in the string, chop off the excess after the bend leaving enough to shove in the hole.

When you get really slick you can fine tune the angle of the string coming off the nut with how long the string is when you chop it and the resulting number of wraps.

[Mike9]

Here's the skinny direct from Fender's Mr Gearhead:

Vintage keys. For these, you'll want to pre-cut the strings to achieve the proper length and desired amount of winds. Pull the sixth string (tautly, remember) to the fourth key and cut it. Pull the fifth string to the third key and cut it. Pull the fourth string between the second and first keys and cut it. Pull the third string nearly to the top of the headcap and cut it. Pull the second string about a 1/2" (13 mm) past the headcap and cut it. Finally, pull the first string 1 1/2" (38 mm) past the top of the headcap and cut it. Insert into the center hole in the tuning key, bend and crimp to a 90-degree angle, and wind neatly in a downward pattern, being carefull to prevent overlapping of the strings.

If the high E is giving you grief stick a round toothpick in the hole till it's tuned. Another trick I use if I have to remove a neck and don't want to change strings is to cut some round toothpicks in half and stick a half in each tuner hole - that locks the strings in the tuner. Then detune, cappo at the nut, capture the strings in strips of velcro around the 17th fret and remove the neck. :AOK

[5er Driver]

Originally Posted by Bubbles

Quickest guitars to restring and no pain from cut off string ends.

+ 1.

[walterw]

Originally Posted by mc5nrg

Prebending isn't uneccessary if you happen to be using wound strings with a round core. Its even suggested-or was back in the day-on the Fender string packs. Put a 90 degree bend in the string, chop off the excess after the bend leaving enough to shove in the hole.

the trouble with that is trying to guess the exact depth of the hole so that you don't have your 90d. bend sticking up over the edge of the slot.

i'm with you on the pre-bending for round-core strings. i also always do it for bass strings (this is recommended to keep the wraps from coming loose from the core).

all you need to do is find where you're going to cut, prebend just a little (5 degrees or so) and cut 1/4" past the bend. the now slightly kinked end will still jam down into the hole all the way to the bottom, eliminating any guesswork.

[5er Driver]

I don't pre-bend. Just stick the straight end of the string down to the bottom of the hole and then bend the string down to the bottom of the slot in the post. You've got the 90° and the string is at the bottom of the hole.

[walterw]

Originally Posted by 5er Driver

what kind of keys are those?

[5er Driver]

Originally Posted by walterw

what kind of keys are those?

Dunno.....whatever OEM vintage tuners came on the '83 SQ. The backs of the tuners are stamped with "Fender Japan". The neck date is 9/21/83, S/N SQ036XX.

[walterw]

Originally Posted by 5er Driver

Dunno.....whatever OEM vintage tuners came on the '83 SQ. The backs of the tuners are stamped with "Fender Japan". The neck date is 9/21/83, S/N SQ036XX.

a japanese squier? now those are hidden jems!

[5er Driver]

Originally Posted by walterw

a japanese squier? now those are hidden jems!

Riiiiiiiight.........

[Boris Bubbanov]

Originally Posted by walterw

right. pre-bending is an unnecessary extra step. cut it, jam it in the hole, bend it over, wind it up. done.

a little more length for the thin strings and a little less for the fat strings is a good idea.

You're the master, and I'm the student, but I am all in favor of not one, but two 90 degree bends, the second on a new axis and 1/8ths inch apart.

The part of the string in the bore can be a tad short. If I insert it and it is too long (happens, but very rare) just trim the end down. The shaft is about 7/8ths inches deep.

The idea is (imagine beginning from the end cut, on a right handed Fender instrument) at about 5/8ths inch, the string makes a super clean (needle nose) right angle turn so the rabbit levels off as he comes out of his hole. Now, almost immediately the rabbit makes a sharp clean right turn to go around the post, first level with the split shaft hole opening and then ever lower as the rabbit goes 2-3-4 times (4 times for G + D in place of 2d string tree)
around the post and so the string "addresses" the nut from a nice low stance.

Walter, do what you usually do, but don't use the string tree. Now loosen, let's say, the B string. Keep loosening. What happens? It pops free.

Not good in my opinion. If you try the Bubba recipe, the string will not pop free on its own but can be removed with a little pressure from underneath. And it can be reinserted, the end into the holes and the winds over the post top and into place. The wound and double bent string remembers how it was, but it relaxes just enough that the tip and winds of string as a unit insert right back into place. Press down on the string as it departs the post for the nut with your right thumb, turn the button with you left hand maybe 8-14 turns, and you're back to tune. All 6 of the strings. Over and over and over as you futz with the rest of the guitar. You're not unkinking the string, and as long as you are not worrying at those strings they don't mind this procedure. I rarely lose a string this way.

To me, this is the secret of how I went from basically knowing nothing, so inept at guitar upkeep and maintenance, to being not too embarrassing. Being able to take a guitar apart and put it back together repeatedly - not having to pay the penalty of a brand new set of strings after 20 minutes of playing, adjusting and experimenting, is solid gold. In money saved and in major time saved.

Sure, once you have it set up right, and you wanna perform or record, re-string and revert back to your old stringing ways if you like. You may never get round to it.