So, can I realistically strip my guitar's nitro finish myself???

[clay49]

Okay, all you basement luthiers, is it feasible for a layman to strip the nitro finish off a guitar (set neck Gibson Les Paul Special HB) without killing myself (vapors and skin ulcers) or getting utterly frustrated?

I once thought I'd never solder my own pickups, pots, etc, but it really only took me one time to get that going, and now I do it all the time.

I'd like to save a couple a hundred dollars off a refinish job by stripping it myself...what's involved (fluids, tools and abrasive substances)???

I'm turning a natural clear-gloss finish LP Special HB into a solid white nitro rig...heck, dare I even entertain the thought of spraying it myself? I'd love to do the whole job myself (and save about $500), but is it REALISTIC?

I'm quite handy and a quick study, but just need to know if I should consider such a project....thanks for the input!

[bsuite]

Don't think you need to strip it.
To over simplify, you could just sand in back to smooth
and spray the white over it, then clear coat it.
plenty of "how to" info on the web.

I've used Reranch & Stewmac spray cans with great results.
A little more work but very do-able.

If it's your first time then yah, it might be a little overwhelming.

You'll have to invest in some painting supplies.

[Steve Foley]

If you really do decide to strip it, I've stripped nitro guitars before with a heat gun - the kind you use for wall-paper and paint. They're like a super-duper hair dryer, and cost about $29 or so at the hardware store. You don't need anything fancy. Wear gloves, because it'll get warm, and it all strips off in big sheets, back to the wood, in less than 5-minutes. It's the ONLY way to go, if you do the complete strip route.
Like bsuite said, though - you don't need to strip it back. If you're doing the opaque finish, you'd probably be better going over the top, unless there are serious bonding issues with the underlying coat. If you strip back to the wood, you'll probably need to do some grain-filling, and on a mahogany body, as a LP may very well be, this can be a pain.
If you were going with a clear finish that shows off the wood grain, by all means, strip, seal, fill, stain, dye, clear, and all that stuff, but it's not necessary with a "no-see-through" finish.
You will need to get everything back to absolutely smooth, though, before starting the new coats. Keep the bulk of the old coats, but sand and level, filling in any divots and nicks that remain, before spraying it. http://www.reranch.com/reranch/ has some good info from anyone from pros to rookies.

[Keyser Soze]

Even if you used methylene chloride based stripper (great stuff but very caustic and solvent based) the fumes will be much less than that you are going to get from spraying the new nitro finish.

But i'd also agree there is little point stripping to bare wood. Sand the existing finish smooth, seal it with a wash coat of shellac, then apply your new finish.

But get a respirator before you start spraying anything.

[Mike9]

The only thing you need to strip nitro is lacquer thinner - wipe it on then wipe off the finish. You can use Citristrip too, but it's a little more caustic. Buy an organic cartridge respirator, wear good gloves and use plenty of ventilation. Solvents and binding do not mix, but you have a Special so I doubt there is binding. You could just scuff sand and shoot primer then color over the existing finish. I'd prime with BIN so there is no color bleed through from the old finish.

I have one of those LP special HB's with mini block inlays that I'm going to Rat Rod. I'll deepen the tummy cut, put a forearm contour on it, shoot it in Hot Rod Grey primer then a semi gloss clear coat. Some funky aging on the hardware maybe a wrap tailpiece, or maybe a Bigsby.

[clay49]

Excellent info, guys...this is boosting my confidence in doing it myself. I'm particularly stoked about not having to really strip it, just sand it smooth before putting the final coat.

BTW, I checked stewmac...there is no white nitro lacquer spray available there...why?Where can I get that?

[jamison162]

Originally Posted by clay49

Excellent info, guys...this is boosting my confidence in doing it myself. I'm particularly stoked about not having to really strip it, just sand it smooth before putting the final coat.

BTW, I checked stewmac...there is no white nitro lacquer spray available there...why?Where can I get that?

http://reranchstore.stores.yahoo.net/olympicwhite.html

[GtrDr]

I have customers who used re ranch products & the results were amazing. Find out what is compatible with the original Finnish & keep it as a grain filler. Just rough it up & fill any dings. But try it out on a old body to see if your up to it before potentially botch up your Gibson.

[mattmccloskey]

You could also use 'aircraft stripper', it is available at pepboys and auto supply shops. It is really powerful and will strip urethanes as well as nitro.

It comes in a 'low oder' formula and is surprisingly not that noxious. You don't need to use it for nitro, lacquer thinner or straight acetone will do it. I like the aircraft stripper because it involves less elbow grease than thinner.

I would NOT recommend a heat gun on nitro. While the heat gun works very well for poly finishes, nitro is still flammable and it catches on fire easily , burns, smells awful, etc.

The heat gun with a scraper works but is also more likely to burn the wood, and you can easily put dings in the wood with the scraper.

Aircraft stripper, gently scrape off, remove remainder with lacquer thinner or acetone, clean with prep-sol or similar product. Use gloves and do it outside and it will be far easier.

[clay49]

Guys...I can't thank you enough for this superb information. I'm sure that once I get into it, I'll be posting again, with pics, and with further requests for assistance...we'll make this a joint project, ok?

[Kingbeegtrs]

I just stripped a friend's HWY 1 thin-skin body with lacquer thinner and paper towels. It took all of 15 minutes. Beneath the "thin skin" was a really lush coat of poly which is nearly impossible to strip.

BIN Shellac Based primer is what I use. It is compatable with nitro and provides a thin coat.

[GtrDr]

With paint stripper, you have to stay far away from any bindings

[Steve Foley]

Originally Posted by mattmccloskey

I would NOT recommend a heat gun on nitro. While the heat gun works very well for poly finishes, nitro is still flammable and it catches on fire easily , burns, smells awful, etc.

The heat gun with a scraper works but is also more likely to burn the wood, and you can easily put dings in the wood with the scraper.

Excellent point there.
I should have also mentioned keep the heat gun moving; don't hang in one spot. Okay to use on high for the first minute or so, but after that bump it down to a lower heat. I repeat, keep it moving..... I use gloves, and a putty knife to slip under the finish. It will probably raise in big sheets. You may strip it off like pulling a shirt off a baby, if you work the gun and putty knife right. Do be careful thought, if you see it start smoking or really bubbling - move over, and let that spot cool.
Other than that, I'd much rather use a heat gun than a chemical stripper, on nitro. If you use chemicals, you chance leting the wood absorb more of the dyes, and this may cause more sanding and/or bleaching, to get back to a wood grain finish. Since you're using an opaque finish, this is a non-issue, but I add that in, for other's information.
For what you're doing, I'd still leave most of the existing finish, patch dings, sand smooth and respray. If you have a way to do this, check compatibility in a hidden area, say in the neck pocket, or pickup routes, first. If you're going to have trouble with compatibility between the finish coats, you'd be better off stripping to wood.
Another thing - be sure ALL, and I mean ALL, silicones are cleaned off, or you may get finish defects in your new coats. If you do a little research on the Reranch site, you can probably get some good ideas on the "what not to do's".
Have fun, and be patient - it takes awhile for it to cure out. Don't rush your final sanding, or you may have to start over, again, like I just did on one of mine.

[clay49]

Update...I've finally gotten a definitive ruling from Gibson Customer Service, and I found to my disappointment that this guitar that I have actually has what they call a "UV-cured poly" finish...OH CRAP...that means that it is going to be horrendous to strip, or cost much more to have someone else strip it, right?

Guess I need the recipe for removing poly now...bring it on!!!

[Boris Bubbanov]

Clay, it is all about who you are.

Some guys come in here, all aww shucks, and they make it look easy.

Others create mayhem for themselves.

I recommend practicing on other projects involving finishing (Furniture, etc.) before tackling a Gibson. Assuming you don't already have such experience. Other guys here paint cars or build furniture for a living, etc. In other words, everyone has different skills and different experience levels.

This means we really can't guarantee a thing. I'm sorry.