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#1
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Building plans?
me and a buddy are thinking of building some cabs just wondering if you guy had any building plans. Also tips/pointers/etc. welcome
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"Aaron I think the left side of your moustache is one db louder than the right." Good deals with: kyle31, katuna, mxandmyax,cajone5, |
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#2
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I have tons, as you read this, I am typing a lenghty post.
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#3
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- Wood: Birch Plywood 13-ply (3/4")
- Bracing: Maple or Black Ash - 1" by 2" - Wood screws - Lots of wood glue Now the big question is, what cab are you building? 1x12, 2x12, 4x12? Open, closed back? A good closed back dimension for 2x12 for example, is 18"(H)x14"(D)x30"(W) -When bracing the innards, the main rule of thumb is to use 1 screw every 6 inches along the braces. -Use 1 brace for EVERY corner of the inside. This means 12 braces inside every cab. -Use 1 brace for any stretch over 20". So this adds 2 braces (top/bottom) to a 2x12. -Use enough glue in each joint to air-seal the cab once closed. -Allow 7/8" offset at the rear of the cab to allow for a rear pannel -Allow 1" offset at the front to allow for a speaker grill pannel. -Use "T" nuts to fasten the speakers and the rear pannel (if removable). -Use silicone to seal the recessed handles, rear pannel and 1/4 jacks plate. -Front loading is a better idea since you do not need to remove rear pannel and can glue it shut. I have more, but thats all I can think of at the moment... EDIT: -If you use a jigsaw to make the speaker holes, make sure you draw a perfect circle - measured from the speakers you will install -If using a router, you ABSOLUTELY need a guide to make the holes right. If you free-hand it, I can guarantee it will show. -If you screw the braces from outside, your gonna have to fill the holes with putty later - but it makes the bracing stronger. |
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