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Old 12-14-2009, 10:51 PM
Pgraf88 Pgraf88 is offline
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Republic of Texas
Posts: 71
Building plans?

me and a buddy are thinking of building some cabs just wondering if you guy had any building plans. Also tips/pointers/etc. welcome
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Old 12-14-2009, 10:52 PM
diaz diaz is offline
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I have tons, as you read this, I am typing a lenghty post.
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Old 12-14-2009, 11:06 PM
diaz diaz is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 390
- Wood: Birch Plywood 13-ply (3/4")
- Bracing: Maple or Black Ash - 1" by 2"
- Wood screws
- Lots of wood glue

Now the big question is, what cab are you building? 1x12, 2x12, 4x12? Open, closed back?

A good closed back dimension for 2x12 for example, is 18"(H)x14"(D)x30"(W)

-When bracing the innards, the main rule of thumb is to use 1 screw every 6 inches along the braces.
-Use 1 brace for EVERY corner of the inside. This means 12 braces inside every cab.
-Use 1 brace for any stretch over 20". So this adds 2 braces (top/bottom) to a 2x12.
-Use enough glue in each joint to air-seal the cab once closed.
-Allow 7/8" offset at the rear of the cab to allow for a rear pannel
-Allow 1" offset at the front to allow for a speaker grill pannel.
-Use "T" nuts to fasten the speakers and the rear pannel (if removable).
-Use silicone to seal the recessed handles, rear pannel and 1/4 jacks plate.
-Front loading is a better idea since you do not need to remove rear pannel and can glue it shut.

I have more, but thats all I can think of at the moment...

EDIT:

-If you use a jigsaw to make the speaker holes, make sure you draw a perfect circle - measured from the speakers you will install
-If using a router, you ABSOLUTELY need a guide to make the holes right. If you free-hand it, I can guarantee it will show.
-If you screw the braces from outside, your gonna have to fill the holes with putty later - but it makes the bracing stronger.
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