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#1
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how to tell if a real CuNiFe magnet Fender WR HB?
Hello,
- is there an infallible way to tell that a particular Fender wide range humbucker is a CuNiFe magnet original and not a reissue? - Are they worth the nutty prices i see for them on Ebay? cheers and thanks! dt Last edited by dusty tolex; 05-23-2010 at 02:39 PM. |
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#2
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When I want to review this subject, I read every post I can find on it with Telenator participating.
Speaking of him, right now you should leave the e bay stuff alone for right now and try to get in line - he's got a tiny supply of Cunife magnets and he's made some pickups. That's what I'd do - save shopping on e bay for when there's no other supply. |
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#3
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Quote:
cheers dt |
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#4
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Sorry; the important part of my message is or should have been:
Read Telenators posts from oldest to newest in full - because he can identify a real Seth Lover 70s WRHB more accurately than anyone else and he's been kind enough to share that information with us. I cannot put it in a nutshell, sorry. |
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#5
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Quote:
cheers dt |
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#6
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I think Kurt Novaks site covers the differences as well.
Last edited by Mudder; 05-23-2010 at 09:53 PM. |
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#7
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only real way to tell with the pickup still in the guitar is to unscrew a pole piece all the way out and if it's a magnet you have an old one.
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#8
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right, apparently the whole issue is that CuNiFe is the only magnet metal that can be machined into threaded screws, and it's nigh impossible to get these days.
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Walter Wright Guitar Repair Gnome Alpha Music, Va Beach |
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#9
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I think the one in question is original but perhaps it's been rewound, as there is substantial new solder and I think a new ground has been created; finally, the lead is not braided. I wonder if you'll be able to see these photos:
http://f314.mail.yahoo.com/ya/downlo...Inbox&inline=1 I'm guessing this will cut into its value a substantial amount |
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#10
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Wonder how close to the same magnetic behavior you could get with a hollow threaded steel polepiece that has a core of rare-earth magnet?
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This space intentionally left blank |
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#11
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Quote:
alnico 2 is supposed to be very close to cunife but all alnico is also supposedly very hard to machine makes you wonder why they don't just make a set place (pressed in) alnico 2 version. being that i don't think many people tinker and adjust the pole height from the factory. |
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#12
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the under side of the two pickups look pretty different from one another
the reissue shells don't look the same as the original ones - and the 70s WRs have a date stamp on them I think it would be hard to mix them up.. just look for pics of originals and note the braided wire and different molding than the new reissued ones
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http://www.danocaster.com PLEASE FRIEND ME : http://www.facebook.com/DanocasterVintageReplicas |
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#13
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thanks for the input - any thoughts on the photo I posted above - would you say that pup has been rewound?
cheers dt |
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#14
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the pic requires me to log in
__________________
http://www.danocaster.com PLEASE FRIEND ME : http://www.facebook.com/DanocasterVintageReplicas |
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#15
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Boris, thanks for the kind words. Over the past two years I have learned way more than I ever wanted to know about these awesome pickups!
The MIJ and vintage look very similar but the MIM Re-issue, as Danocaster pointed out, has a completely different metal frame. An original vintage WRHB will have 12 holes for the magnets to poke through, 4 mounting holes to attach the coils to the frames, and one single hole for the braided shield and wire to come out of. The CIJ looks very similar. The MIM Re-issue has 8 round holes for the steel pole studs to poke through and 4 oblong holes as well. It also has the 4 small coil mounting holes. The unique "give-a-way" that it's a re-issue is the wire clamp in the center of the frame and the grey insulated wire clamped in place. Here's a photo of an original and our repro:
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If you're bored, you're not groovin'! |
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