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  #1  
Old 08-09-2011, 07:46 PM
Tone Loco Tone Loco is online now
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speaker doping

What do you use for doping speakers? Is the stuff black, or does it just make darken the cone material like getting it wet with water would?

Also how about thinning existing speaker dope, what do you use for that?
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  #2  
Old 08-09-2011, 08:26 PM
guiltless guiltless is offline
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Use some of that German stuff that runs you $75 for 10ml. Put some in your amp while you are at it

But on a helpful note, you may be looking for this http://www.parts-express.com//pe/sho...number=340-512
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Old 08-09-2011, 09:24 PM
Prairie Dawg Prairie Dawg is offline
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A little off topic but what is the purpose of speaker doping?
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  #4  
Old 08-09-2011, 10:48 PM
Tone Loco Tone Loco is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guiltless View Post
Use some of that German stuff that runs you $75 for 10ml. Put some in your amp while you are at it

But on a helpful note, you may be looking for this http://www.parts-express.com//pe/sho...number=340-512
Sounds like they paint the whole cone with that? And one guy reviewing it mentions that if you are using it with a speaker that is supposed to reproduce mids it's not great.... IDK seems a little iffy.

I'm just looking for something that goes around the outer edge.
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  #5  
Old 08-10-2011, 04:17 AM
teemuk teemuk is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prairie Dawg View Post
A little off topic but what is the purpose of speaker doping?
As far as I know, it means adding some substance to either the cone or the surround to increase its mass and decrease its flexibility. This will further on alter the speaker's characteristics at the higher end of its response.
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  #6  
Old 08-10-2011, 07:59 AM
TweeDLX TweeDLX is offline
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The Weber site defines doping as a kind of trade-off. On one hand, less doping on the surround allows more tone/harmonics. More doping can prevent the onset of cone cry, and works better if you use lots of OD. Simple rule of thumb: use more dope if you use more dirt, less if you run guitar/cable/amp.

ToneLoco,
A simple Google search didn't bring up any hits for "Speaker dope", but I know that some product is out there. I tried using liquid electrical tape (suggested by someone at the Weber forum) to get rid of cone cry, and destroyed my 10F150's. I don't think "The Wet Look" is what you want. Could it be as simple as using the "dope" found in your local hobby store?
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  #7  
Old 08-10-2011, 08:39 AM
slider313 slider313 is offline
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I dope my speakers with Elmers photo safe contact cement. It's acid free and the enclosed brush, attached to the cap, is the perfect size.
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  #8  
Old 08-10-2011, 08:44 AM
Tone Loco Tone Loco is online now
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Any recommendations for removing doping?
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  #9  
Old 08-10-2011, 08:45 AM
rokpunk rokpunk is offline
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medical grade from northern cali.
ohhhh, SPEAKER dope.
i have no clue.
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  #10  
Old 08-10-2011, 09:05 AM
Structo Structo is offline
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Acetone supposedly works but it is an intense solvent so use with care.
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  #11  
Old 08-10-2011, 05:54 PM
Tone Loco Tone Loco is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Structo View Post
Acetone supposedly works but it is an intense solvent so use with care.
Yeah that sounds like overkill. Plus I've actually had better luck getting sticky stuff (duct tape residue to be precise) off of tolex and metal using lighter fluid, I forget the active ingredient. It seems like the dope is basically some kind of glue...
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  #12  
Old 08-10-2011, 07:06 PM
lefty kwan lefty kwan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Structo View Post
Acetone supposedly works but it is an intense solvent so use with care.
I used Acetone with an old tooth brush to remove some doping from an old celestion V10-60. I was a bit nervous about the proceedure but it worked out great. The speakers tone really opened up. The top end sounds way sweeter, lower mids seem to be less pronounced, bass was not too effected and no cone cry. The speaker might breakup a little earlier and/or loss a bit output. Sounds fantastic to me.
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  #13  
Old 08-11-2011, 12:56 AM
Creamy Creamy is offline
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A few yeas ago I emailed Weber this question and he suggested using a Weldwood product. I believe it was contact cement.

The main reason I had for doping the speaker was to tame cone cry when playing some notes on the e and b strings at higher volumes, clean. Weldwood worked and if I had more speakers to experiment with I'm sure I'd have become very good at it.
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  #14  
Old 08-14-2011, 10:41 AM
J M Fahey J M Fahey is offline
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There are two kinds of doping
1) the one that is always somewhat sticky/tacky, stops being so only after a *very* long time (months/years) or because it gets covered by dust and similar debris, which is the thick version of that water based silicone sealant you use on tile/cement roofs, the one that's a white somewhat acrid smelling liquid you spread over the roof by sweeping .
Since the home type one is quite watered up, you'll need many layers but it works fine.
Paint enough of it until you start seeing the *inside* cardboard starting to get wet, it will look white/light blue, and start looking "black" (in fact transparent, black comes from the cardboard itself) after 1 hour.
Reinforce it at will.
This one works very well, does really make the edge more flexible, damps ugly vibrations, you name it.
The Pro version is much thicker and does so in a single application but what I suggested works just as well, only it may take up to couple days (remember it must be dry= transparent before ayou apply a new layer)
2) Not as good but quick and dirty: Vinyl (Elmer's?) carpenter's glue diluted with about an equal amount of water, (experiment) plus a spoonful of black latex paint (I use Sherwin Williams Loxon) , just because carpenter's glues carry some solid "load" which dries whitish, not bad but ugly looking.
*If* you know somebody in the printing trade, they have a vinyl glue *without* any added material, which is almost pure vinyl alcohol which is used for cheap book binding; it's very flexible but usually comes dyed red, green or blue.
Good luck.
PS: removing doping is not such a good idea: you'll remove mostly the surface or external layer, hardly what's impregnated into the fibers, and the possibility of edge damage is high.
Not worth it, in my book, but of course, YMMV.
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  #15  
Old 06-22-2012, 02:02 PM
hrbay hrbay is offline
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Old thread... but no one has considered/mentioned PVA. It is a mold release used in the composites biz but it does everything you are saying and is super cheap. Just don't want to expose it to water or alcohol. It dissolves right away.
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