Re-radius during re-fret, why not?

[Dev...in]

Im going to be embarking on my first re-fret experience soon
(have a squier bullet neck to practice on) and I understand the basic idea behind changing the radius of a fingerboard (you sand it) is there any reason why this should make a refret experience any more difficult? Also, when i use the radius sanding block will I sand over or through the plastic dot inlays?
any advice?

I want to go from a 7.25" to a 9.5"

[nateclark]

Maybe not the best idea until you've gotten down some of the other aspects of refretting.

[PhilF]

Originally Posted by R.Robertson

Im going to be embarking on my first re-fret experience soon
(have a squier bullet neck to practice on) and I understand the basic idea behind changing the radius of a fingerboard (you sand it) is there any reason why this should make a refret experience any more difficult? Also, when i use the radius sanding block will I sand over or through the plastic dot inlays?
any advice?

I want to go from a 7.25" to a 9.5"

Re-radiusing a board is ridiculously easy if you're doing a simple radius with a radius block. Don't worry about that at all. Doing a good job on the refret is much more difficult (although still not too hard at all). I'm not exactly sure what you mean by sanding over or through the inlays, but when going to a wider radius you will take away more material in the middle of the board. Just sand gently until there's material coming off on the entire sanding block, not just the middle.

[Dev...in]

Ok, im talking about the round plastic fretboard markers thats all. I anticipate the refret as being challenging but im determined to do it!

[Ron Thorn]

Check your fretslot depth after re-radiusing. You may need to drag a fretslot saw thru there to regain the proper depth. Check the tang length on the wire you're going to refret with, and slot a bit deeper...if needed.

[Dev...in]

Wow advice from a true pro! Thanks!
Love your work.

[Sweetfinger]

If you're flattening the radius or correcting warp/bow in a neck, there is the possibility that you'll go through some inlay. Just depends on how much material you're going to remove and how deep the inlay sits. My guess is you probably won't go through. If you do, you'll be able to practice installing new dots!

[GM Reszel]

The act might seem ridiculously easy but be careful of your radius block motion. Don't use too much down pressure and let the block and paper do the cutting work. Be cognizant of your motion that you're not leaning into one area more than another. My first effort had me trailing off both ends (effectively making a back bow) and twisting my motion so the treble side of the nut end and bass side of the high fret end trailed off even more! Your project is defintely easier in that you're going from 7+ to 9+ so it won't take too long.

Make sure whatever hand is leading in the sanding motion nevers goes past the fretboard end. Frequently check your progress with a straight edge to make sure you're on track and not doing the things I did. Finally, be gentle, don't rush - you can always take it away,,,it's hard to put back.

[Dev...in]

Cool... Any suggestion for the best way to hold the neck while doing this? Something from stewmac?

[GM Reszel]

I have a slotted bench and hold-down clamps that do it for me. You'll need to devise something that keeps the neck from moving around, allows you complete freedom of sanding motion and that your clamping pressure doesn't bend the neck in any way. If you don't choose to fashion something yes, stew-mac can definitely come to the rescue.

[Rockledge]

You also need to consider the radius of the fret wire itself, are you buying the fretwire from someone who has a radiusing tool and can radius it for you are do you have the tool? Knowing what radius you want the frets to be and pre radiusing them can save you some big headache.

[bluesjunior]

Originally Posted by R.Robertson

Cool... Any suggestion for the best way to hold the neck while doing this? Something from stewmac?

I use a bag filled with sharp sand for this. It allows the neck to settle into shape in it and also gives a real solid base when hammering in the new frets.