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It’s even worse using a modeller into the board. That was “ok” until another guy with an amp came to play. It was like I wasn’t even there. Used an amp ever since.

Thanks!

5/8” Baltic Birch ply except back which is 1/2”, box jointed.

Sounds really great. In case anyone is wondering It’s wired to 4ohm because the mosvalve sounds great at 4 ohm. I’m going to install a 4/16 switch so I can use it directly with amp. Oh and I know it’s wired out of phase in the pic. I took the pic and looked at it and went oops and fixed it.

added a Traynor logo to the front. Looked a little naked. Fills the amp gap.

30” tall 23” wide 14” deep

Ya closed oversized. Size is similar to a wizard 212. Wanted some bottom end. I run an IR into FOH so it’s really only stage volume.

Wanted a 212 for an EVH style rig I’m going to be using if and when the band starts playing live again :dunno: It will have the 2 weber 1225Cs. My Traynor is basically a 50w plexi. I copied the filtering and fizz cap values from what’s out there about 12301. The amp goes into my reactive load...

But they market them as a higher power Greenback sound with more bottom end. G12m-65

I’ve had the creamback for a few years now and I just can’t find the crackle and grit of a g12m in there. It gets a great smooth punchy tone but I can’t get it to rock. I’ve had it in a few amps and applications but I’m just not hearing it.

The Marshall is probably an easy fix but you need someone qualified to look at it. Same thing with the traynor. I can save you allot of trial and error with the traynor. I have a ‘71 yba1 and wanted it to sound basically like your metal face Marshall. Despite changing the preamp and tone stack...

I tried the modeling thing with an Amplifire and didn’t like it after the shine wore off. We play mainly smallish places and for the last year or so I’ve run just my pedal board with a le crunch preamp with an h9 in the loop. This splits to a Mooer radar that feeds FOH with my tone with an IR...

My old traynor has a shorting jack but it shorts via a big cement resistor so at least there is some load. It’s a smart idea and I don’t know why it’s not in more amps.

I find as I get older I’m using less and less gain. Not sure if it’s something to do with my hearing but the last few gigs I’ve been finding by the end of the night I’m pretty much playing a clean tone with just a bit of compression and clean boost. Across all the genres we play too. Anyone else...

Regarding all the references to “Slash” and the Jubilee. Everyone knows that the Jubilee and the Vintage 30 were made after appetite for destruction right ? And that AFD was the Caswell amp and greenbacks right ? I just see so many people immediately playing stuff from AFD when they plug into...

I’ve had my 2555 for 32 years. It’s never once given me a single problem.

There are plenty of schematics for both out there. Just google it. But you can’t get the jubilee sound without the jubilee tone stack.

Yba1. My back up at that particular gig but I often will play that when I feel like getting some plexi on.

My back up :)

Unfortunately I don’t get to play it live as much as I’d like. Mostly because of volume restraints where we play but it’s also a pain in the ass to haul a 412 around. But even when I’m going direct without an amp I still use that same dripping saturation in my direct rig in the form of this...

Ok thanks, but there’s no original mod ? Does this somehow connect to José Arredondo? And he used clipping diodes ? Was it in a particular player’s amp ? Questions, questions...

What exactly is a José mod ? Where’s the Schematic? I’ve searched and found descriptions that vary but no documentation to back it up.

Yep, I’ve been playing mine for 32 years now and it’s followed me through 80s hair metal to Texas blues. My Jubilee and a Les Paul and I’m good to go.

Hey, are any of you guys who think the old caps are just fine, interested in buying a box of 40 to 50 year old ecaps that I’ve replaced?

I think the bigger mystery is what happened to his tone since then.