As I guess you should. I assume there is a center tap and it is connected the ground? That should show continuity to ground for anything connected to the high tension secondary. Each secondary is just one continuous wind of wire.
No. Not for tube amps. Tube amps do not act directly inverse to speaker load like solid-state amps do. The OT uses the speaker load to create the plate load. If you mismatch the speaker load, then you mismatch the plate impedance and the tubes efficiency ...and output... goes down.
Lots of the molded caps (coupling caps and tone stack) and many of the resistors are replaced, as well as all the electrolytic caps. On my work computer I can only few the thumbnail pics or the massive full-size one, someone here may have better opportunity to scale and compare.
Go with the Sozo Blue or Synergy Royal Blue.
Personally, I'm a Mallory M150 fan, because they are polyester, axial, affordable, and easy to source. Anything else falls somewhere between diminished returns and snake oil for me. But when we are only talking two caps, buy whatever you like.
Once you eliminate the very different tremolo, the Brown amps and the Blackface amps are far more similar then people think. It all comes down to the tapped Treble pot...the difference in the preamp between a Brown Super/Concert/Pro and a BF Super Reverb's Normal channel are two parts (the...
Vintage '50s and '60s Fenders used a 30/70 CTS pot. Fender still uses 30/70 pots for Volume on some reissues, it's what they used in the original '57 RI. My guess is they switched to the 10% audio taper for the Edge model.
The 5E3 big jump is partly related to their linked, interactive channel...
No guarantee it does or that it will even fit a real, vitange chassis. Chassis and faceplates vary to a degree and even the pot holes may not line up, that's why many suppliers only guarantee their facepaltes to fit their chassis. Even a real vintage Marshall faceplate from a different run may...
The Mojotone (and all the others I have seen) are plexi, you need a brushed metal faceplate for '70s restoration. Honestly, if you think $50 for two plates is expensive, you may be in for some sticker shock; you're probably looking at an artwork fee and setup fee before the actual production...
Yes. Louis Vuitton and others have sued over the products being used unless they are compensated. "All Rights Reserved" is a powerful phrase, private sales does not include the rights to use the trademarks for commercial use.
Companies can and will sue if they don't like the way...
The grounded ones are actually rarer now, but Surplus Sales has them for $30 as well.
I stocked up on the grounded ones a while back when ebay had them for $15 each, I use them when converting vintage Fenders amps to 3-prong.
Hoffman offers his own layouts plus all the conventional ones in either eyelet or turret, on G10 (no fiberboard).
He doesn't have a 5F4 listed on the turret page — it is offered as #101 and #102 on the eyelet page ($22) — but I'm pretty sure he makes them to order anyway.
Yes. It's louder all the time.
That's why we recommend a more efficient speaker to people who are looking for get more headroom out of their amp...because it makes everything louder at every Volume setting.
Sensitivity: XX decibels @ 1 meter @ 1 watt
Hammond 1441 series chassis and 1451 series cover.
Built similar to what Dynaco and others used in the '60s. Come in a variety of sizes (all cages are 5.2 inches tall) and are sold by Mouser, Antique Elec Supply, Angela and plenty of others.Only in grey or black, but you could probably have it...
Master Volumes are subtractive. You always have to dime MVs for maximum headroom; their sole purpose is to reduce clean headroom. Real Fenders don't have a MV, which is the same as having one dimed.
But I think you may have bought too small an amp, the Accomplice Jr is closest to a Deluxe...
Allens are sort of a "Neo Blackface". Everything that makes BF Fenders more desirable (than SF) for blues and rock overdrive was emphasized. Some differences between the Allen and AB763
Allen doesn't have the optical trem that loads the circuit, this means a hotter signal driving the PI
A-B looper. You can buy one for $60-70 on Reverb/eBay.
Plug the guitar into IN
A SND to Micro Dark Input
Micro Dark FX Send to A RTN
B SND to Laney Input
Laney Output to B RTN
Run OUT to Micro Dark FX Return
A is Micro Dark preamp...B is Laney preamp, both go to the Micro Dark power amp
A simple interrupt loop might work for "Poweramp In", but it won't for a full FX loop. The Fender BF-style preamp output is too hot, and needs buffering to compensate. This is why the loops in Fender-derived circuits (Mesa Mark, the Dumbleator) usually have a cathode-follower to impedance match...