Nope, you've gone through most all of the right paces.
BUT, before spending money on that new PSU, a simple check with THE most isolated supply (a couple 9 volt batts) will verify that a good, clean, isolated power source would solve the problem.... the batteries are a troubleshooting...
Before you spend that kind of money, wire up twp battery snaps in parallel and on the other end wire in a 2.1 mm barrel connector. Try it on the unit. If there's no pop, then it might be the old PSU.
If it DOES pop w/the batteries, then you know its in the pedal, amp, guitar, or wiring.
Yes, it does help.
The pedal still could have a DC level on it (as I mentioned earlier)... most likely culprit are those two AC-blocking caps.
It can be that either the guitar or AMP has DC on their output.
Amps have DC-blocking caps as well.,.. they could be leaking. (test: try another...
Looking at a (questionable) schematic, I'd first guess that EITHER
- the input cap to the DBA is leaking a little DC back upstream (less likely)
- OR the ouput AC coupling cap is leaking DC.... it's a 1 uF which I'm going to assume is an electrolytic (which is more likely to leak).
I agree on the Kowloon Walled Pedalboard aspect ... in tight spaces, traditional straight-in RCAs wouldn't be well-received on the pedal-end of the cord.
Now, if someone stretched the envelope and came up with a right-angle RCA (or double-RA, making a "Z" that would minimize strain-relief...
I don't have any of that-series of Morley pedals (I'm more a a giant-chrome-monstrosity type of player)
Can you get an accurate measure of the LxW on the box, and how wide the flange (rim) is?
I don't think they used a standard -sized box, but you might be able to get a piece of...
Prolly gotta enjoy decyphering color-codes for resistors, and numeric codes for caps. (easy)
Need to understand the concept of thermal mass (aka "some things heat up faster than others")
Need to know when to force things, and went to not.
Need to have an Aloe Vera plant around.
that's a good...
I've seen the Carcosa get down to 99 (maybe 95) about 15 months back.
I think the Looking Glass dropped to about 140 and 120 at the same time.
My guess is that when a Looking Glass sells, they have to pay a little royalty to Shoe Pedals,
since it was a joint effort.
... gotta love those...
As a general rule of thumb, RCA jacks/plugs are much more robust than the 2.1 and 2.5 mm barrel connectors.
More surface area.
More tightly held.
Higher current rating. (7 A for RCAs, 5A for 2.1mm barrels, in general)
Emberace the better connector... too bad we can't get it std on the...
I'm pretty much agreeing with @Bill Dennis on this one.
If it's not a high-current digital pedal putting ratty has on the big inductive cables,
then it's non-filtering analog boxes picking up even the slightest of power glitches
or it's paint on the enclosure seams preventing the creation of a...
Just adding a bit I found myself typing into another thread... it belongs here as well:
RE: Noise encountered when handling cables, bending/stepping-on, getting pinched, etc
Noise when handling is the often caused by an insulator or dielectric + another material touching/rubbing then being...
Noise when handling is the often caused by an insulator or dieletric + another material touching/rubbing then being separated (e.g cord being stepped on/off).
aka "Triboelectric effect".
Since we've upgraded to video representations, here's one that compares the two I mentioned earlier.
Earlier in the video, they run through Max-settings (kinda ho-hummish, imo, but perhaps necessary)
Remember they are showing off both Bias and Harmonic trem in this vid.
AND btw, ignore the...
Think of the Univibe as a wonky, square-wheeled bike. It's actually a phaser that has a not-exactly all-pass filter and a lopsided LFO... I actually think it sounds best when it's right upfront (Trower's Bridge of Sighs).
Vibe (vibrato) is one half of chorus... the half that has modulation...
Next up, euro-rack components.
I mean, if it was me, I'd start with a versatile mega-pedal like an Echolution Deluxe, then I'd start throwing things in it's loops... y first would be a mixer pedal so yo can fade in/out various effects, then start adding in things like compressors...
(repeat of my contribution to the other 2 harmonic trem threads recently)
Mr Black mini-Tremolo (mono, can blend from 100% bias trem to 100% harmonic trem)
Mr Black PanaTrem (true stereo, pans/trems, all controls can be assigned to an expr-pedal, and has a nice preset, so you can toggle between...
Yep... there a DC-Brick, and a ISO-Brick
A roughly 2x price differential and a roughly 3x physical-volume differential.
Which one has isolated outputs? The bigger/spendier one.
One big hint is that the DC-Brick has 18Vdc as it's power-in.
While it IS possible to construct a DC-to-DC...
I do some design stuff, mostly in my head, but a few are in schematic-capture and I'll eventually lay them out using EAGLE PCB.
... for fun, not profit ... I have other skills I use for income these days.
I USED to be on the development team at Mentor Graphics Boardstation Layout products...
Maestro USS Battleship (or whatever they call that huge, multi-effect monstrosity).
Klemt Echolette (had a refurb'd one in my hands for 200$ bitd, and passed. I were an IDIYOT !!)
Ibanez Flying Pan (actually, I have owned an original, but I passed on one for 75$ bitd... double...
I'll see your Blues GitFiddle and raise you a Jerry Goodman Wah Violin Rant.
Buried in this three-way trade of solo riffs (McLaughlin/Hammer/Goodman) is some insane fretless wah-age.
.. starts with a 15 second ramp-up, with the wah being comped along under the rhythm.
Then all hell breaks...
As the pedal runs on 12V, a good engineering principle would be to ensure that 'safe' conditions would exist if the pedal was plugged into up to 18 (maybe 24) volts for an extended time, since those are commonly found on pedalboard PSUs. The very last thing a good engineer wants to be...