That puts you in strat or tele type range.
I have semi hollow, chambered, lightweight, and heavy strat types with all sorts of configurations.
All can shred.
My quick and dirty analysis:
For shred, I see more immediate attack, bright sound, long sustain, etc.
That says solid body and...
I say it does, but not in an alder/mahogany/maple way.
It's all about weight/density and resonance. If you hit the weight/density and resonance just right you get a good guitar.
If you dont, you are more likely, but not always going to get a dud.
This is why the same pickup sounds...
I'd not care about their business practices, only their light blue 335 copy with the p90s.
That puppy is sexy!
My uncle had a real d'angelico in the 50s.
He left it in his office and somebody stole it.
I dont know, I am on the fence about this one.
Scalloping in and of itself does nothing for speed.
Taller frets allow me to play faster and longer due to forcing me to lighten up my touch. I would assume scalloping would do the same.
I dont get wrist pain nearly as much nowadays either.
Strats are versatile, not for their sounds, but for their ability to work in just about every genre.
Metal? You have yngwie.
Hard rock? You betcha!
Funk? Right this way.
Ambient? Yes sir.
Jazz? Why not. (I know guys play teles, not sure about strats)
My method to sound shaping is a good clean amp, some amp in a box pedals, and some boosters.
I can add delay, reverb, and effects from there.
As far as cutting through, strats over les pauls.
Occupy a different sonic realm than the bass, other guitar player, and singer. Sometimes a crazy...
You are paying for the convenience of having a lightweight and durable piece of aluminum that was made to accept our pedals and power sources.
I paid about 150 bucks for mine and about that or more for the pedal power.
I gotta say that I friggin love it. So worth it. My cables don't get...
I spent 20 years on 25.5" scale guitars. The recent additions of some gibson scale guitars was not as big a deal as I thought it would be.
I do notice that larger frets make up for the slightly smaller real estate to work in. Sometimes my finger is just a bit too far from the fret and i flub a...
1. When you can buy a 335 for 150 bucks that is playable...
2. When you can buy a modeling amp for less than 200 bucks that sounds great......
3. When great sounding pedals cost as little as 40 bucks......
4. When good sets of pickups can be had for 100 bucks or so.....
I would say yes, yes...
Anything 12 or greater.
10-16" is cool as well.
I can bare chord on any of them with no problem, so a 7.25 radius is not needed. Why not have lower action and better bends?
To those that complain that 14" is great, but 16" is too flat, the difference in height at the middle of the fret is...
I just stocked up. I have 2 sets with another 6 on the way.
That'll last me more than a year on my 9 guitars because most had a string change within a month or two. I get 6 to 8 months on the average played ones and over a year on the lesser played ones.
A strat is my number 1, but not my main guitar. That varies from week to week.
And a good strat is considered that when it sounds like a strat should.
As someone above said, you need to play a strat with attitude.
As someone else said, gain, compression, and tone controls are your friends...
Nowadays, you get alder bodies on MIM.
Why? The cost of the "upgraded" american parts probably only costs 50 bucks max to the manufacturer.
Add another hour for better fretwork. This is about 50 bucks after wages, taxes, etc.
So, even if you triple your expense, it's only 300...
I came to this realization not too long ago.
I definitely have less gas, and am overall much happier with my gear. I even sound and play better, I think. Wishful thinking? Lol
There is 12 db in the midboost and 12db straight boost at the volume knob (7 is parity with a normal strat).