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The bicarbonate (even water) starts the reaction between one cyanoacrylate and another one. The bicarbonate and cyanoacrylate form an ion which reacts with another cyanoacrylate molecule. This starts a chain reaction (polymerization) which ends up a very good adhesive.
I like the ability to cotrol both convexity and concavity, but I am not a vintage purist. Options are often a workaround for perfect workmanship. Mass production does not lend itself to perfection, IME, IMHO, & YMMV.
My EVH Special/Standard Minimum upgrades:
+Ti String Block Inserts
+SS Hex screws -- all of 'em, bridge and nut
+Big Block or L Block--Brass, Naval Brass, or Ti
-Get rid of the spacer-tone sucker
Optional but highly recommended:
MIRACLE CLOTH is the same. better and cheaper. Miracle Cloth is made by DUNLOP. Works great on Ebony, and Rosewood for me. I use TruOil Paste Wax on my bare maple fingerboards and necks, but MC on all frets.
That Pedal Show doesn't take advertisements. They are opinionated, in marketing themselves (Mick as a consultant, expert & Dan as a product designer) and are pretty up-front if they like something or not. My fav. YMMV.
A Neck jig may be able to pull it straight, but the leveler bar is just a flat sander, not going to help get the neck in position and keep it that way. And, the neck jig just simulates the neck geometry with the striungs off. when it gets strung up again, it's a whole different thing if you...
Check them with a fret rocker or credit card. The Frets may need a kiss to get them flat and buzz free. Shimming is only going to get your strings up to the fret plane--If the frets don't rattle, or buzz, I'd be tempted to just leave it til you have it re-fretted, and then have the neck...
I really like having two i/o boxes, one on either side. I have my wah set to go in the right side, either first, or in the insert loop. W/D/W, exp's & volume on the left side.
Also, you are getting a gigrig generator with G3, & a Gigreig power system is more compact than the TrueTone, cable...
I use it as the last drive in my W/D(W) rig. EVH Special --> 1)Keeley Aria (Comp+ & TS9), 2)Keeley D&M (OCD-like & Klon-ish), 3) KoT, 4)Ryra Klone, 5) 5150OD-->Humdinger split to Dry amp. 5150OD is voiced like the 5153 Blue Channel and I have it set to just an AC/DC bite with guitar at full...
I have strats, teles, & parts guitars with both. I have EVH guitars with both. Arguably, SS may be better only in the fact that they will never need a refret. Subjectively, I like the feel of SS better, and not having to do the eventual fret dress or refret.
I have SS fret wire for my next 10...
I usually prefer the have the nut cut so that the wound strings are well seated but about half exposed and the plain strings are just below the top of the nut. Height of the action at first fret depends on the feel of the guitar.
I took my cues from Dan Erlewine’s Nut Making videos in the early...