6 point or 2 point Strat bridge?

[slopeshoulder]

I'm having a strat made. I always demand 6 point (vintage style) bridges because I assume they provide better tone ( I also use Kluson style pegs for the same reason). But I wonder if I'm really better off. So many good high end modern builders use two point bridges. Do they sound as good? Do they sound the same/different (all other things being equal)? Will I regret it?

It's sometimes hard to tell which strat innovations have staying power vs. thgose best left behind (IMO: roller nut, floyd, S-1, HSH, SSH, chambers, sperzel locking tuners, etc).

What say you? Advise me regarding 2 vs. 6 point bridges please.

Thanks.

 

[jiml]

I like 6's better. I prefer a vintage feel and sound of a steel block and six screws. To me, every 2 post trem I have played has had more "zing" that added a modern tone and feel (Tylers, Suhrs) to them. It wasn't bad, just not what I preferred. I'm no dive bomber, but I use the bar a bit, and it will go out of tune once in a while.

What are you trying to go for? If you want a vintage tone, go with 6.

 

[jpage]

Go with six but only comp down on the outside two screws--my old tech swore that gave you the best of both worlds.

 

[jiml]

Go with six but only comp down on the outside two screws--my old tech swore that gave you the best of both worlds.

Hmmmmmm, thinking about what that would sound like, or feel like...

I'm sure a physics expert will weigh in here about transfer funtions and metalurgical myths, maybe I'll try it out?

 

[Blue4Now]

I have used both and just think the 6 point feels a bit smoother (if set up well of course) plus it just looks right. I can't stand the look of a Fender Strat with a 2 point.

 

[ducatisteve]

I prefer 6 point, but it MUST have a push in bar for me. I have never met a screw in arm that I've gotten along with. It's always too tight to move around, or too loose and wobbly.

 

[Dickie Fredericks]

I prefer a 6 point for all the reasons described above. If I wanted a 2 point, Id have a Floyd.

 

[Tidewater Custom Shop]

Go with six but only comp down on the outside two screws--my old tech swore that gave you the best of both worlds.

That's the only way I know how to do it. I wouldn't do it any other way.

With the trem unloaded, I tighten down on all 6 screws until the base plate just begins to move, then I back off a quarter turn. Then I return to the 2 outside screws, bringing the bottom of the screw head flush to the top of the base plate - stopping right at the point when the base plate moves. Works great for me.

I choose the vintage 6 screw over the modern 2-point purely for aesthetics. My builds are always vintage style.

I've owned Strats with the 2-point and quickly upgraded with Callaham block and saddles, & RV springs. I recall the action was different - not necessarily better, but after the upgrade the tone was nice.

 

[Antelope]

It's sometimes hard to tell which strat innovations have staying power vs. thgose best left behind (IMO: roller nut, floyd, S-1, HSH, SSH, chambers, sperzel locking tuners, etc).

Ouch -- I have a roller nut AND sperzel locking tuners on my Strat . . .

 

[daddyo]

Never owned a 6. Have a Hipshot contour on a partsocaster. I get all the vintage tones I need plus it stays in tune.

 

[zygoat]

I like the 2 point trems better. I like to do those quick "flutters" where you flick the bar to give it that gargly sound.

 

[buddastrat]

I use this logic, The best sounding strats I've ever played have always had six screw trems. I never played any two point trem'd strats that sounded as good as those great ones, not even close. I have not compared the two bridges on the same guitar and that's what is needed for a fair compare. The two point does not feel as nice to me, but it might sound as good, but why take the chance?

The six scre feels better, stays in tune superbly if you know what you're doing, and looks good. For me.

 

[Tone-Control]

I don't think 2 point is a problem but stick with vintage saddles and a steel block. Gotoh makes a nice bridge like this. Don't have the model number right now.

 

[Scott Auld]

Is it possible to convert my 1991 Fender Strat to a vintage style bridge?

 

[monty]

I like the 2 point trems better. I like to do those quick "flutters" where you flick the bar to give it that gargly sound.

I prefer the 6 screw for everything except this one point. I can do it, but not as well as I can with my Strat with the 2 point.
I'm thinking of removing 4 of the screws to see if I can bring it closer.
Anyone try this?

 

[dumbell78]

Thats what I have on my Suhr and really love it. Its the 510T bridge, I went with the two point, steel block, and vintage saddles.

Here is a link to the various versions from Gotoh:
http://www.quest-md.com/tremolo_units.html#EV510T

I don't think 2 point is a problem but stick with vintage saddles and a steel block. Gotoh makes a nice bridge like this. Don't have the model number right now.

 

[9fingers]

2 point with a nice steel block & Raw Vintage springs sounds & feels awesome & stays in tune with a good nut. I do a LOT of bar action & prefer the feel & range of the 2 point. (a well set up 6 screw can work fine too).

 

[LReese]

Scott -

IIRC, you can do the 2 post Gotoh 510 as a direct retrofit to the Fender bridge or you can go for a Kit from Callaham to install the vintage bridge on your present bushings but it still will pivot on 2 posts. There might also be an issue with string spacing on the Vintage bridge.

 

[slopeshoulder]

Thanks for the replies!
OK:
- steel block, check
- vintage saddles: check
- raw vintage springs: check
I'll probably stick with 6 screws and use 4 of them (removing 2). That's worked for me. But I believe that 2 point with above features will work well too.

 

[redroos]

Scott - Also you can pickup the current Fender unit, its a drop in with vintage saddles. I think the Callaham uses offset vintage saddles? Not sure on this but he does sell vintage style saddles that have the screw off to one side of the saddle - like the saddles in your pic.

Unlike the Gotoh, the Fender is 2 1/16", Gotoh is 2 1/8th. Pretty sure on this Gotoh measurment. The Fender is my preference but I kept the older block, FWIW, swapped out the newer 'copper infused' one for the original two point 'poured steel' one. And here, by swapping, and don't forget the Callaham block, you can kinda control the 'edge' of your guitar I find. For example, the dullest of the 3 blocks is the original, can't say which is brightest of the other two. Me, and my Strat wasn't exactly dark or dull to begin with, I found that getting just rid of those solid SS saddles was what I was looking for.

Any, I like 6 screws too, and here I use a Wilkenson piece that is 2 1/16th" width but says it is 2 1/8th". You will know this piece because of its black steel block and offset high E and G bores. It also has a push in arm which I prefer.

What is not being talked about is the springs. Dan Erlwine suggested the Fender black ones and I agree, they are very unique. They improve the feel of the tremolo and also help the tone I think. I run 5.